BarracksSi

How does that little clock secure into the steerer? Do you have to remove the top cap completely? I'd like to get one myself, but I'm wondering how the headset doesn't work loose (I've got a rental MTB at the moment whose stem simply will not stay straight; it needs the top cap to keep the fork in place).

FunkyStickman

It replaces the top cap with a taller, hollow one, and the clock (or compass, thermometer, etc.) fits into it and is held in place with an o-ring.

BarracksSi

Ah, ok -- got it. I think I'll send the link to my wife.

AdamDZ

Like Funky said: it has two parts: a hollow stem cap with raised sides and the clock itself. Remove the existing cap. Using the existing bolt mount the Stem Captain cap then just insert (press in) the clock into the cap. The clock has this grippy, soft rubberband around it that hold it securely in place.

Fizzaly

That's so cool

AdamDZ

BTW, the cap doesn't really hold anything in place. Many caps are just plastic. It's how you do this right. First, keep the stem loose, rest the bike on the floor make sure all the headset parts, spacers, etc come in place properly then tighten the cap just enough to pull everything together. Then tighten the stem bolts. It's the stem that actually holds the fork and headset in place. Once you tighten the stem you can remove the cap, it doesn't do anything any more.

Oh, and the steerer tube can't protrude over the stem. There needs to be at least 2-3 mm but not more than 5mm between the end of the steerer tbe and the edge of the stem clamp so the re is enough room to pull up any slack when you tighten the cap.

yokotas13

fuji lomo by Flsimages, on Flickr

laundry day

Babylon

The big box store bike that I got 4 years ago as a stop gap, bought it from a friend who had only riden it a couple of times.

Its still going strong after all this time, its only had 1 new wheel and that was after a meeting with a rather large pothole.

It normally sports panniers rather than the handlebar bag put this was taken on a short ride this morning.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/36342454@N02/5450296279/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/36342454@N02/5450296575/

(it wont allow me to put the photos in for some reason)

Only things that I have changed/added for the commute are the tyres Schwalbe City Jets, Rack, and bar ends. For what it is it rides nice but I have been looking for another bike for the weekends and fun rides.

BarracksSi

Oh, I know; finally did my first ground-up build last year. Im saying that the stem on the POS rental bike I've got (although not the worst that anybody's seen on BF, according to a thread I started last week) won't stay secure enough to keep itself pointed straight, at least not without cranking down the stem bolts hard enough to strip the threads. I figure that if it can be turned sideways, it can also be pushed upwards. The only thing truly keeping it all together is the top cap, and it's adding just enough pressure to keep the stem from getting knocked out of alignment.

Besides, on the roadie with its carbon steerer tube, I'd rather have the cap taking the brunt of the load and not clamp the stem any tighter than it needs to be.

AdamDZ

If you're going to keep the bike for a while you might consider a shim, no? I'd be afraid to ride with an insecure stem Ah, I'm carbon-free, I wouldn't know I never caught on to the carbon craze. I had a carbon bike once, didn't like it, but I think the steerer tube was still aluminum.

irclean

Rode home in the freezing rain today. I dislike riding in the rain, but I did get to test out the rain cover on my new Topeak trunk bag:



On the way home I spotted a unicycle commuter coming the other way. He was riding on the sidewalk, which must take some mad skills since the majority of the sidewalks around here are covered in an uneven layer of frozen, rutted snow. He gave me a nod on the way by, but all I gave him was a slack-jawed look of disbelief. I wonder if he was running a studded tire.

pallen

Finally took a pic in commuter mode

bbeasley

The only thing I take to work is a thumb drive and I don't have to change clothes. Makes for a low hassle commute.

Doohickie

But now we can't see that fly rack of yours.

Fizzaly

Finished operation summer bomber, thanks for the pedal Monsterpile they are great

monsterpile

Fizzaly that bike looks fantastic and its not just the pedals. LOL

Fizzaly

I'll take some better photos once the snow melts and I can properly tune it and take it for a ride. I totally got my feet stuck in those pedals though i forgot to see what the tension was set at and apparently it was cranked up higher than im used to nearly ate it.

Sargeist

This is my commuter beater. Sorry for the poor quality photo. I only have a camera on my phone. It is a 1977 Huffy Comfort Touring with all original SunTour component group still intact and in good condition.

irclean

That's awesome! Post some more pics when you get a better camera.

pallen

How did I not know you had a blog? Now I have something to do this morning. Well, besides work and stuff...

FunkyStickman

Finally finished upgrading the commuter!!

New wheels/fork, and it's finished!

Fizzaly

Are those blue kenda kwests?

FunkyStickman

Indeed they are! Running silver Mr. Tuffys in them.

Fizzaly

Darn now I'm bored of my plain black kwests

Derailed

I've been using a black Surly Cross Check from ca 2003 for year-round-commuting and light touring. Because it is flat where I live, the bike is usually in fixed-gear mode, but for touring I've swapped the rear wheel with an internally geared hub. Last summer I built up a dedicated touring bike for a longer tour and, accordingly, I'm ready to dedicate this bike to commuting. After seven Midwestern winters the bike was in pretty bad shape, so I made some modifications.

Here's a photo from a couple of years ago at the start of a tour around Lake Michigan:



Here's a complete list of this winter's mods (framework done by my LBS):

• Paint stripped
• Removed rear brake bosses, derailleur hanger, and all cable stops
• Fork vent holes expanded slightly on right side to route dynamo wiring internally in the fork blade
• Hole drilled on bottom side of down tube, near the steerer tube, to internally route tail light wiring (exit through hole at bottom of bottom bracket)
• New powder coat
• New front brake (Avid Single Digit 5, linear pull)
• New brake levers (Tektro RL520, linear pull-specific; both mounted, but only the left is used.. the right one is just for hand position).
• New rear rack: Tubus Vega, with B&M 4D Toplight (battery operated tail light to augment the fender-mounted Seculite Plus dynamo tail light)
• New Velo Orange (VO) aluminum fenders
• Added VO leather mudflap for front fender
• Added VO aluminum chain guard
• Added Salsa Crossing Guard to outer chainring position and moved chainring to inner position
• New VO brass bell
• New MKS steel toe clips and VO leather straps

Finally, here's the end result: