Could use some help on the type of handlebar...
#1
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perpetually frazzled

Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Linton, IN
Bikes: 1977 Bridgestone Kabuki Super Speed; 1979 Raleigh Professional; 1983 Raleigh Rapide mixte; 1974 Peugeot UO-8; 1993 Univega Activa Trail; 1972 Raleigh Sports; 1967 Phillips; 1981 Schwinn World Tourist; 1976 Schwinn LeTour mixte; 1964 Western Flyer
Could use some help on the type of handlebar...
OK, so this past Thursday, I picked up a Univega Activa Trail to be my primary commuter. The setup so far is with cantilever brakes and rapid-fire (drop) shifters on a riser bar (horizontally flat).
Now, I don't want to throw drop bars on this bike, as I like the upright ride for a commuter, but my hands start tingling after about 7 miles (I've got a 20 mile RT commute).
I'd like to switch handlebars, and have been seriously looking at getting a set of mustache bars (with road levers and bar end shifters), simply so I can still sit up while having multiple hand positions, but are there any other bars that would help me out as well?
I've looked at multiple bars that are out there that are more "ergo" and swept back, but I don't know if any of them would work well. The others I've noticed are the:
On One Mary
Nashbar Trekking bar
VO Milan
VO Left-Bank
NITTO Dove
NITTO Albatross
I'm seriously considering a cromoly albatross if I don't get the mustache.
As an aside, either way I go (bar-ends or retain the MTB-style shifters), it's getting friction shifters, so changing things isn't a big deal to me.
Now, I don't want to throw drop bars on this bike, as I like the upright ride for a commuter, but my hands start tingling after about 7 miles (I've got a 20 mile RT commute).
I'd like to switch handlebars, and have been seriously looking at getting a set of mustache bars (with road levers and bar end shifters), simply so I can still sit up while having multiple hand positions, but are there any other bars that would help me out as well?
I've looked at multiple bars that are out there that are more "ergo" and swept back, but I don't know if any of them would work well. The others I've noticed are the:
On One Mary
Nashbar Trekking bar
VO Milan
VO Left-Bank
NITTO Dove
NITTO Albatross
I'm seriously considering a cromoly albatross if I don't get the mustache.
As an aside, either way I go (bar-ends or retain the MTB-style shifters), it's getting friction shifters, so changing things isn't a big deal to me.
#2
Trekking bar can be angled so that you can sit up when holding the 'tops' and be in an aero tuck in the 'bottoms'. It'll also take your stock controls. Love the one on my Safari.
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C'dale BBU('05 and '09)/Super Six/Hooligan8and 3,Kona Dew Deluxe,Novara Buzz/Safari,Surly Big Dummy,Marin Pt Reyes,Giant Defy 1,Schwinn DBX SuperSport,Brompton S6L/S2E-X/M6L-X/S12 T Line

#3
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Columbus, OH
Bikes: '08 Surly Cross-Check, 2011 Redline Conquest Pro, 2012 Spesh FSR Comp EVO, 2015 Trek Domane 6.2 disc
The two V-O bars you listed are nice, and the Milan was on the short list of bars I was considering for my utility bike I'm building up.
I was looking at the Milan, the Tourist, and the Promenade as they all accept MTB shifters and levers. I went with the Tourist since it's the wider of the the two swept-back designs. I stayed with the swept-back designs to keep my shifters/brakes well out of the way from any large cargo, since I'm putting a CETMA rack up front.
If you dig the Nitto Left-Bank, check out the V-O Tourist. Similar design, but you wouldn't have to swap out the MTB shifters/levers you've got on the bike currently.
I was looking at the Milan, the Tourist, and the Promenade as they all accept MTB shifters and levers. I went with the Tourist since it's the wider of the the two swept-back designs. I stayed with the swept-back designs to keep my shifters/brakes well out of the way from any large cargo, since I'm putting a CETMA rack up front.
If you dig the Nitto Left-Bank, check out the V-O Tourist. Similar design, but you wouldn't have to swap out the MTB shifters/levers you've got on the bike currently.
#5
Thread Starter
perpetually frazzled

Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,469
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From: Linton, IN
Bikes: 1977 Bridgestone Kabuki Super Speed; 1979 Raleigh Professional; 1983 Raleigh Rapide mixte; 1974 Peugeot UO-8; 1993 Univega Activa Trail; 1972 Raleigh Sports; 1967 Phillips; 1981 Schwinn World Tourist; 1976 Schwinn LeTour mixte; 1964 Western Flyer
Thanks guys. As far as the tourist and albatross, do you find them comfortable for "long" commutes?
#7
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: SF Bay Area
Bikes: Peugeot, Motobecane, Joannou, Kona, Specialized, Ironhorse, Royal Scot, Dahon
Consider the On One Midge as well. Yes, it's a drop bar, but it's meant to be set up high, and it's the most "compact" bar I've ever seen - very short reach and drop. It's very ergo. I'll post a photo if you want. I've got mine setup with bar-ends.
I've read many comments that moustache bars aren't good for distance, and 20 miles is distance to me. I went to my LBS and almost bought some, but didn't really see some of the various hand positions as very usable.
I've read many comments that moustache bars aren't good for distance, and 20 miles is distance to me. I went to my LBS and almost bought some, but didn't really see some of the various hand positions as very usable.
#8
I ride my moustache bars long distances, and I'm not alone, there are plenty of touring bikes set up with them. In some ways I actually prefer them to drops, but I would strongly advise against putting them on a mountain bike convert. With MTB's already long top tubes, the added reach of a moustache bar makes them horribly uncomfortable.
#9
Thread Starter
perpetually frazzled

Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,469
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From: Linton, IN
Bikes: 1977 Bridgestone Kabuki Super Speed; 1979 Raleigh Professional; 1983 Raleigh Rapide mixte; 1974 Peugeot UO-8; 1993 Univega Activa Trail; 1972 Raleigh Sports; 1967 Phillips; 1981 Schwinn World Tourist; 1976 Schwinn LeTour mixte; 1964 Western Flyer
Well, this thing is a hybrid. I'm 5'11", and the top tube is 21", so I don't think it would be TOO bad.
#10
Yup

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From: where the sunbeams end and the starlight begins
Bikes: Kona Unit, planet X cx bike, khs fixed gear
I ride my moustache bars long distances, and I'm not alone, there are plenty of touring bikes set up with them. In some ways I actually prefer them to drops, but I would strongly advise against putting them on a mountain bike convert. With MTB's already long top tubes, the added reach of a moustache bar makes them horribly uncomfortable.
Anyways I have 20 mile round trip and have a geared and fixed gear bike with moustache bars, have doen a century on them and find them great. I switched my other fixed gear from risers to origin8 space bars for the sweep and to take presure off my hands and wrists, love them too.
My mtb has dirt drops (mary bars) and I used to commute on them as well. They need a short stem with rise, as well the bars are meant to riden in the drops with the drops being the same height as where the grips would be on a flat/riser bar setup.
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#11
I tried for about 6 months to get them to fit on my mountain bike, and nothing I could do could get the hoods at a comfortable position. The difference in reach between the hoods of a pair of drops and the hoods of a moustache bar is something like 10 cm. It's hard to find a stem to account for that much difference.
#12
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Joined: Sep 2005
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https://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/275682-so-albatross-bars-ultimate-commuting-bar.html
That thread has a lot of info comparing different bars.
That thread has a lot of info comparing different bars.
#13
Mirror slap survivor
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Sunny Florida
Bikes: Gunnar Sport, Surly Pacer, Access MTB, Ibex Corrida, one day a Simple City
I don't understand. You have hand numbness problems but you want to eliminate the easiest remedy---drop bars. I suspect you have a fit issue. What's your bar height? If it's not at saddle height, that's where you should start, IMHO. I have 46cm Nitto Model 177(Noodle) handlebars on all my bikes. My position is as upright as flat bars(if not more so) but I have multiple hand positions available.
I'm relating this to you as someone who also gets numb hands(or did) really early into a ride. Switching position is key. I move from flats to ramp to hoods to drops all the time during a ride. My commute is 40 miles round trip.
I'm relating this to you as someone who also gets numb hands(or did) really early into a ride. Switching position is key. I move from flats to ramp to hoods to drops all the time during a ride. My commute is 40 miles round trip.
#14
I ride my moustache bars long distances, and I'm not alone, there are plenty of touring bikes set up with them. In some ways I actually prefer them to drops, but I would strongly advise against putting them on a mountain bike convert. With MTB's already long top tubes, the added reach of a moustache bar makes them horribly uncomfortable.
Put the same bars on my favourite Mixte, no good. The bike is on the small side for me so with the new bars I`we got mu hands on my lap. First I was thinking longer stem to mowe it all forward, but I think I am buying moustache bars for this one. Also a really stylish bar if you like the style.
Last edited by badmother; 01-23-09 at 06:58 AM.
#15
Thread Starter
perpetually frazzled

Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,469
Likes: 9
From: Linton, IN
Bikes: 1977 Bridgestone Kabuki Super Speed; 1979 Raleigh Professional; 1983 Raleigh Rapide mixte; 1974 Peugeot UO-8; 1993 Univega Activa Trail; 1972 Raleigh Sports; 1967 Phillips; 1981 Schwinn World Tourist; 1976 Schwinn LeTour mixte; 1964 Western Flyer
I don't understand. You have hand numbness problems but you want to eliminate the easiest remedy---drop bars. I suspect you have a fit issue. What's your bar height? If it's not at saddle height, that's where you should start, IMHO. I have 46cm Nitto Model 177(Noodle) handlebars on all my bikes. My position is as upright as flat bars(if not more so) but I have multiple hand positions available.
I'm relating this to you as someone who also gets numb hands(or did) really early into a ride. Switching position is key. I move from flats to ramp to hoods to drops all the time during a ride. My commute is 40 miles round trip.
I'm relating this to you as someone who also gets numb hands(or did) really early into a ride. Switching position is key. I move from flats to ramp to hoods to drops all the time during a ride. My commute is 40 miles round trip.





