make my hybrid faster with new tires
#26
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
You are absolutely right. The term hybrid covers such a broad range of designs, it cannot be generalized. My experience was with a Giant Cypress - a so-called "comfort bike". I ended up putting the original wide tires back on it to restore the stability which I liked.
Bob
Bob
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They are 38s
All the numbers on the sidewall is just "two different ways of saying the same thing". Something to do with cm`s and Inches. I do not remember the details but you can read about it.
700 x 38c =
28 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/2
The first number (700 or 28) tell you how big (high) your wheel is. The second (38 or 1 5/8 x 1 1/2) tell you how "fat" the tyres is.
Since your present tyres is 38 you need to find out if your rims can use as narrow as 28. You need to measure the inner size of the rim (wall to wall in the U shape). They say you can go to Sheldon Browns site nd find out once you know the rim size.
Last edited by badmother; 02-06-09 at 03:39 AM.
#28
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Do you have them pu,ped to 85?
My Serfas Drifters (26x1.5, aka 559-27) are only rated to 65 Max, but I run them at 70.
There is a WORLD of difference between 10 PSI under max and max.
I'd been getting a little lazy topping off my tires because I had to use a mini pump to get tham over 50 PSI. It turns out I was down around 55.
I finally broke down and got a decent (for my budget) floor pump w/ gauge for $23 at the LBS. I pumped them up to where I wanted and was amazed (again) how much difference it made.
My Serfas Drifters (26x1.5, aka 559-27) are only rated to 65 Max, but I run them at 70.
There is a WORLD of difference between 10 PSI under max and max.
I'd been getting a little lazy topping off my tires because I had to use a mini pump to get tham over 50 PSI. It turns out I was down around 55.
I finally broke down and got a decent (for my budget) floor pump w/ gauge for $23 at the LBS. I pumped them up to where I wanted and was amazed (again) how much difference it made.
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I have a Trek 7.3 fx, at first I began to crave more and more speed as my fitness was starting to improve. I wanted to be as fast as road bikes and contemplating to get even thinner tires. The more I rode the 32s are actually perfect for the commute I do.
Like most people are saying upgrading the engine is the best upgrade you can get hehe. I can keep up and maintain a pretty good pace now as I increase my miles. The 32mm are pretty snappy on the road and can handle its own on some gravel path. I decided to keep it stock and eventually buy a road bike.
Like most people are saying upgrading the engine is the best upgrade you can get hehe. I can keep up and maintain a pretty good pace now as I increase my miles. The 32mm are pretty snappy on the road and can handle its own on some gravel path. I decided to keep it stock and eventually buy a road bike.
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Do you have them pu,ped to 85?
My Serfas Drifters (26x1.5, aka 559-27) are only rated to 65 Max, but I run them at 70.
There is a WORLD of difference between 10 PSI under max and max.
I'd been getting a little lazy topping off my tires because I had to use a mini pump to get tham over 50 PSI. It turns out I was down around 55.
I finally broke down and got a decent (for my budget) floor pump w/ gauge for $23 at the LBS. I pumped them up to where I wanted and was amazed (again) how much difference it made.
My Serfas Drifters (26x1.5, aka 559-27) are only rated to 65 Max, but I run them at 70.
There is a WORLD of difference between 10 PSI under max and max.
I'd been getting a little lazy topping off my tires because I had to use a mini pump to get tham over 50 PSI. It turns out I was down around 55.
I finally broke down and got a decent (for my budget) floor pump w/ gauge for $23 at the LBS. I pumped them up to where I wanted and was amazed (again) how much difference it made.
If you are not totally car-free you can also get a small compressor that you can plug in the lighter socket in the car. I use it both for topping up the cars tires, for friends bikes (when we meet to ride and there is hardly any air in theyr rear wheel) and for my bikes. Should be around £10. I keep it in a small plastcbox and keep valve adaptors innside.
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Personally,I'd save up for a rigid fork. A decent set of tires will run $40-60,a decent steel fork about $75. You'll save weight and increase efficiency.
Actually,here's one for $50 and there's a 10% coupon 'till Monday:
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...20Road%20Forks
Actually,here's one for $50 and there's a 10% coupon 'till Monday:
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...20Road%20Forks
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#32
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Thanks Andrew. Not sure I want to go from a 38 to a 28. Seems like a big jump. I would think keeping the same size but going to a harder slick would make a difference even at the same size.
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Personally,I'd save up for a rigid fork. A decent set of tires will run $40-60,a decent steel fork about $75. You'll save weight and increase efficiency.
Actually,here's one for $50 and there's a 10% coupon 'till Monday:
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...20Road%20Forks
Actually,here's one for $50 and there's a 10% coupon 'till Monday:
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...20Road%20Forks
Take those things you listed, add in a non-suspension seatpost for $25, so $50 + $75 + $25 and you're up to $150 and you haven't even payed for installing the new fork yet - let's call it $200. Now you've sunk $200 into a low end bike with a low end frame and crap-tastic components.
At this point you might find out that after taking off the suspension seat and the big tires it's a really, really, really rough ride and you have to put those things back on to make it tolerable tolerable to ride - completely wasting all the money you spent. Or being the cheap bike is is to begin with, a wheel or derailler might snap and you'll have to scrap the whole bike. Again, all the money you spent on "upgrades" is wasted.
Or you could take that money and buy a "new" bike (and by new, I mean used) that was originally designed for what you want to do - going fast in relative comfort. A quick search on ebay turned up this Specialized Allez road bike for $400:
https://cgi.ebay.com/Allez-Road-Bike_...3%3A1|294%3A50
That one is local pickup only - if you can find one they're selling in your local area, that's the best as you don't have to pay $100 for shipping (typical for a bike) and you can see it before you pay them. Ebay lets you save a search for a bike in your immediate area and email you when one shows up.
Here's another one that sold for $300 plus $90 shipping:
https://cgi.ebay.com/specialized-alle...3%3A1|294%3A50
Both these bikes would *undoubtedly* be faster than the bike he has now, and come with more reliable components to boot.
I've just seen to many times where "I've got X money but not X * 2 money" turn into "I just wasted X money and ended up having to spend X * 2 money on top of that anyways".
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If you had knobby tires to begin with I would say go for it, but I would be surprised if going from one slick to another in the same size is going to make any sort of noticeable difference. :-(
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jcrockerman - Cool! (empirical evidence) What tires did you decide to go with. Did you get a smoother surface?
I was running Bontrager 700x35 stock inverter tread... and now I have Bontrager 700x25 Race Lite
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So I have a bunch of bikes and I want to make the hybrid faster - it's a typical hybrid with typical tires (textured with solid center line)- kinda like this one:
https://www.biketiresdirect.com/pcocr...de_tire/pp.htm
Anyone have an idea about a 700C tire that would be faster?
Someone mentioned turning off the suspension seat post to make it faster. Can the same be done with the RST Omni 790 front suspension fork?
The bike:
Men’s Schwinn 700C Trail Way Hybrid Bike
https://www.amazon.com/Men%2592s-Schw.../dp/B000KZ1G7Q
https://www.biketiresdirect.com/pcocr...de_tire/pp.htm
Anyone have an idea about a 700C tire that would be faster?
Someone mentioned turning off the suspension seat post to make it faster. Can the same be done with the RST Omni 790 front suspension fork?
The bike:
Men’s Schwinn 700C Trail Way Hybrid Bike
https://www.amazon.com/Men%2592s-Schw.../dp/B000KZ1G7Q
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You can spend a lot of money trying to shoehorn a crappy bike into something that's fast and comfortable only to end up with nothing better in the end anyways.
Take those things you listed, add in a non-suspension seatpost for $25, so $50 + $75 + $25 and you're up to $150 and you haven't even payed for installing the new fork yet - let's call it $200. Now you've sunk $200 into a low end bike with a low end frame and crap-tastic components.
Take those things you listed, add in a non-suspension seatpost for $25, so $50 + $75 + $25 and you're up to $150 and you haven't even payed for installing the new fork yet - let's call it $200. Now you've sunk $200 into a low end bike with a low end frame and crap-tastic components.
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Won't a slightly smaller cassette make it faster? Should be less money than newer higher performance tires, right? Skinnier slicks will make it handle more spritely, and roll a bit easier, but it doesn't change the ratio of travel. Or, am I totally off??
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Not changing the fork. I tightened the front fork and that's not bouncing up and down any more. The checked the seatpost and didn't see any way to adjust it. I don't recall it being bouncy like the fork - so that stays as is. Still looking at tires. I may adjust the handlebars a little lower, but that will be it for this bike. I old 10-speed and the the old MTB - now those I can mess with ...
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Not changing the fork. I tightened the front fork and that's not bouncing up and down any more. The checked the seatpost and didn't see any way to adjust it. I don't recall it being bouncy like the fork - so that stays as is. Still looking at tires. I may adjust the handlebars a little lower, but that will be it for this bike. I old 10-speed and the the old MTB - now those I can mess with ...
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That's not so funny, & good advice! That's what I did last year. I was thinking of switching up between my 3 bikes come spring just for fun.
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I got this station wagon and I want to make it faster by putting 60 wide slicks on it so I can drag race...what tire would you recommend?
Dude, you can put lipstick on a pig all you want...it's still gonna be a pig. If you want a go-fast bike, I'd suggest putting your money into your ten speed or towards a new bike.
Dude, you can put lipstick on a pig all you want...it's still gonna be a pig. If you want a go-fast bike, I'd suggest putting your money into your ten speed or towards a new bike.
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Uh huh. That's why guys spend $1K on a bike and swap out the cranks right?
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not the same thing...duh. If you want less rolling resistance, get a pair of thinner, higher-pressure slicks that are durable and inexpensive...don't go nuts looking for the ultimate racing tire..that is unless you like wining and dining pigs in the hopes of getting laid by a supermodel.
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not looking for a racing tire
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You'll have a hard time finding another 700x38 tire that will give you a noticeable improvement in performance. Going to a narrower tire with a higher max pressure might. Try a 700x32 or even a 70x28. I'd recommend a Conti Contact, because my experience with them has proven out their rolling resistance and durability for commuting purposes, but they are a bit pricey compared to say a Kenda Qwest or WTB Slickasaurus.
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good looking tire, thanks, except that's only a 55lb tire ...
Last edited by rumrunn6; 02-09-09 at 02:36 PM.
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Once I did a 36 mile round-trip ride to our downtown office on my hardtail. Granted it was hilly and hot, but when I got home I couldn't even move. It was awful.
My honest advice? You need a road or cross bike. That hardtail hybrid just isn't the right tool for the job. You couldn't pay me to ride 34 miles a day on that bike.
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I did the ride with a rigid MTB too, with knobbys! That bike has some nice 26 s 2.0 slicks now and is quite fast. My old 10-speed will take most of the commuting abuse. Just tweaking the other bikes for a little rotational fun.
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