Commonly-sold (current) U-locks.

I'd like to use a mini-lock, but I am generally locking two bikes together at any given time (mine, and my girlfriends). I usually use:
-1 Kryptonite or Onguard u-lock or a heavy duty Kryptonite chain (not sure what kind it is, it's about half the heaviness of the current big new york chain)
-attached to a braided cable leash going through any quick release wheels not secured by the u-lock or heavy chain
-using Onguard/Pitlock locking skewers on one of the bikes

Always takes a bit of finagling, but I've never had anything stolen, and it seems to work well.

I have a big supply of u-locks, and I've used the standard ones, and the evolution series. I've never had either one messed with by a thief (that I could tell), but I also don't leave it unattended for more than a few hours (if that), and usually in a pretty visible area. I do live in a big city, though, not suburbs. At night and for long periods of time the bikes are inside, not locked up outside.

Honestly I'm not going to go though the whole article and type everything out. If there is a specific lock that you are interested in I'll check it for you.

Don't exclude the Fahgettaboudit from consideration. For most people, it is a great size. It will fit around the rear wheel of your bike and a beefy steel post set in concrete, such as a parking meter, but leaves a minimum of empty space for inserting leverage tools.

When I park downtown a night, I ride a 30 year old rusty bike (that rides great) with a five pound u-lock to go around the rear wheel, and a two pound u-lock to go around the front wheel and frame. I try to park next to shiny new $2,000 bikes that are "secured" with only a cable lock. Which bike will the crook take first?

To correct Sheldon (so rarely possible), freaking NO bike shops stock Kryptonite's good locks. I'd have one already if every store around here didn't just carry whatever crap OnGuard makes along with the el cheapo Kryptonites. For supposedly having such good locks, Kryptonite's distribution network kind of sucks.

Thank heavens for the Internet.

I thought there were only four or five locks that fit this category, but, OK: Kryptonite Evolution Series 4 STD. Kryptonite New York Lock STD. Kryptonite Series 2. An OnGuard, if you find one.

I'm not a fan of the "Sheldon Brown method," and the Fahgettaboudit it is too small to go around a post, the rear wheel, and part of the bike-frame.

Most of the bike shops near me carry the Kryptonite New York and Evolution Series 4 U-locks; they don't carry other brands, or even a lot of cheaper Kryptonite ones. As for the hardware stores, most stock the Master Lock U-lock (with either a black locking-bar or a yellow one).

The only on from that list that I have is an OnGuard Brute LS, which is 1956g.

With all the lock threads that you are posting in, and all the different opinions that you seem to have, why don't you ride on down to the LBS, take a look at their offerings, and ask some questions about bike theft in your area?

This is the only lock-related thread I've started. Other than this, I've been following the "Some Advice from a Locksmith" one, but the information related there seems to be a little all over the place. I shall visit a local bike-shop soon, and probably just flip a coin to see if I get a Kryptonite Evolution, or a Kryptonite New York, U-lock.

I'm resurrecting this thread cause I'm in the same situation. NY or evo 4 std? Or possibly even opt for abus ultimate? (I'm looking at around same price range.) currently, I have kryptonite evo mini and I like it, although I do need something a bit larger and wider to Sheldon brown my bike at my local college campus, and use the mini as a secondary lock. I will be leaving the bike locked for about 3 hours give or take, and I'd rather have piece of mind instead of wondering if my wheels will still be there when I get back or worse. My campus just got new bike racks and they're sweet and solid! Although they are large. Which is why I'm interested in Std size lock. Also my bike is a pretty old commuter, and I would not lose much price wise. On the other hand it is a cannondale from the 80's downtube shifters with shimano 60 group set. It was my first real bike and id rather just get a very decent lock to re assure myself due to its sentimental value it comes with.

Anyways now that you know my situation, would an evo series 4 lock suffice or is the NY worth the extra bucks to fork out and get? Weight concerns....think I'll be leaving it at the rack so not too worried. There's also the abus ultimate 420 to throw out there in interest....lbs says its a beast... Sorry for hi jacking, thanks

Or even if you guys think that my suggestions are an overkill and I'd be safe enough with a kryptonite series 2 standard size locks. I'm open to suggestions and your opinions!

I have a Mini and although it's light weight and convenient to carry, it's only locked on one end. From what I read, the higher end Kryptonites are locked from both ends, making it much more difficult to free the bike even if you cut the U. The Mini, if you cut the U, one side of the U can be pulled right out.
evolution mini
evolution mini
kryptolok series 2
evolution series 4
new york fahgettaboudit


"This is the Fahgettaboudit with 1 cut through. Notice that there is only ¾ of space between the cut bars due to the burly dual locking mechanism. Thieves have to cut through twice to get this lock off the bike frame."
https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Bike-Locks-Reviews


These days, I've been using the Kryptolok Series 2 Integrated Chain. It's much more convenient and plenty tough.

I use the Evolution Series 4 and the 4ft cable so I don't need to remove the front wheel. I like the Evo 4 as it has the little adapter that I can just attach it to my bike rack when I need to have it. I have a second one that I leave at my office so I don't have to haul the other one around.

We've been using the Sheldon Brown method for 3 straight years in a (1) high bike theft area in a (2) major metropolitan area at a (3) university (does it get worse than that three-fer?) for two bikes with zero problems and - best we can tell - not even an attempt. The bikes are stored outside 24/7. To be fair, we also have pitlocks on our wheels.

J.

Sheldon brown method seems the way I've been doing it lately due to Already having an evo mini. People complain about cutting the wheel but I'm goin to do the next step....an abus or kryptonite medium security chain as well linked to front wheel, frame, post? On top of the Sheldon brown method....my beater bike won't even be worth the destruction they'd have to cause just to get the bike free, for the resale value. Plus the second best lock I've seen besides my own is a mini sunlite u lock...on nicer bikes than mine..I like my odds this semester.

In all seriousness does this sound like a good plan? If so, has anyone used a kryptonite evo series 4 integrated chain or the series 2 chain...a abus catena?

The problem with this strategy is that it can be hard fitting mini U-locks around posts, fences or even bike racks. As it is, my regular New York lock barely fits around the bike rack at work, my frame and rear wheel. I always lock the wheels because they are so easy to remove with quick releases. I loop a cable through my front wheel and the U-lock.

I highly recommend the Kryptonite New York locks. I've used one for nearly three years with no problems, except for the time I absent-mindedly left my lock and cable, with the key, laying on the ground at the bike rack after leaving work for the day. It was gone the next day. I bought a cheaper lock to replace it, but it just didn't match the NY lock in quality and security. So I sold the replacement lock and bought another NY lock. I leave it locked to the rack at work so I don't have to cart it on my commute every day. It IS heavy, but that's part of the reason why it's so strong.

When shopping for :

Bikes, Light = better

Locks, Heavy = better

"You get what you pay for" still applies to everything ! Any questions ?

... and don't "lock-up" in the same spot every time ... soooo... don't leave the lock there !
What will you do : if when you get to your lock, it has a piece of bubble gum in the lock core, or super glue, or it has been removed ???

I think Kryptonite would like you to spend 10% of the price of the bike on a u-lock.

Some also use a mathematical formula : bike + lock (must)= 30 lbs !

A 29lbs dept. store next/huffy/etc. only needs a combination cable lock, the size of a shoe lace.

An *ok* road bike, that cost over a grand and under 20lbs, better get the ney york chain, thats 9 lbs.

Your fancy new carbon steed thats under the UCI limit (15lbs), better get a boat anchor, or better yet dont lock it up !

Bike Snob's Guide to Locking Your Bike | Bicycling Magazine

I saw a couple references to the Sheldon Brown method in this thread referring to locking the rear wheel, the frame and the post. While, this is the way I lock my bike up, it's not the Sheldon Brown method. If you look closely, Sheldon doesn't lock the frame - just the rear wheel to the stationary object.

It's funny because I initially misunderstood Sheldon's method as well.