converting to drop bar
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converting to drop bar
Hi. I want to convert my Schwinn World Ave to run a drop bar. Does anyone have any suggestions on brake / shift levers that will work with my current deraillures ( sram X7 ) rear?
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I would suggest friction shifters, preferably Bar-Ends.
but that bike has v-brakes, right? normal Road Levers won't work with them. You'll either need a device called a "travel agent" or go to Rivendell Bikes' website and get the road v-brake levers. https://www.rivbike.com <-- i believe.
other than that, you might run stem clamp issues, actually...you will. the added reach will mess up your fit because you'll have a longer reach.
don't let that discourage you if you really want to, I'm sort of thinking about doing this on one of my bikes, but still probably just build up a nice frame i have laying around.
but that bike has v-brakes, right? normal Road Levers won't work with them. You'll either need a device called a "travel agent" or go to Rivendell Bikes' website and get the road v-brake levers. https://www.rivbike.com <-- i believe.
other than that, you might run stem clamp issues, actually...you will. the added reach will mess up your fit because you'll have a longer reach.
don't let that discourage you if you really want to, I'm sort of thinking about doing this on one of my bikes, but still probably just build up a nice frame i have laying around.
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99% of people who consider switching a flatbar to dropbar, and many people have, decide not to.
To get indexing: The SRAM mountain REAR deraillers are not compatable with Shimano indexing. SRAM cassettes are compatible with Shimano indexing. You need to get a Shimano STI shifter model with the same number of speeds as your cassette, and a new Shimano RD (any long cage model).
2200: 8
Sora: 9
Tiagra and up: 10
Once you start looking at prices, you'll see why people don't do it
To get indexing: The SRAM mountain REAR deraillers are not compatable with Shimano indexing. SRAM cassettes are compatible with Shimano indexing. You need to get a Shimano STI shifter model with the same number of speeds as your cassette, and a new Shimano RD (any long cage model).
2200: 8
Sora: 9
Tiagra and up: 10
Once you start looking at prices, you'll see why people don't do it
Last edited by envane; 08-04-09 at 07:18 PM.
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I'm looking at doing it to my Sirrus.
Priced it out to about $150-$200.
You'll need:
Drop Bars
New Stem
Shifters
Brakes
Bar Tape
Probably Cables too, unless they come with the shifters/brakes.
For Shifters, I would use bar end shifters.
For Brakes, get some Tektro RL520 Ergos: https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...ke+Levers.aspx . They should work with the current V-Brakes.
Look into it and consider if its worth it.
Priced it out to about $150-$200.
You'll need:
Drop Bars
New Stem
Shifters
Brakes
Bar Tape
Probably Cables too, unless they come with the shifters/brakes.
For Shifters, I would use bar end shifters.
For Brakes, get some Tektro RL520 Ergos: https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...ke+Levers.aspx . They should work with the current V-Brakes.
Look into it and consider if its worth it.
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I'm thinking about doing this to my Muirwoods 29er. I've got some Tiagra brifters sitting around which I'd like to use. I don't like bar end shifters.
I'm thinking I might see if I can get the XT crankset/FD to work with these as a double (I never use the 22T donut) and if that won't work, I might just go 1x9, though either way I'm a bit concerned about chainline.
Then either travel agents or, more likely, road type BB7s, and I should be good to go. (At least I will be once I change the bars and figure out fit issues.)
Then again, I might join the crowd who thought about it and decided not to.
I'm thinking I might see if I can get the XT crankset/FD to work with these as a double (I never use the 22T donut) and if that won't work, I might just go 1x9, though either way I'm a bit concerned about chainline.
Then either travel agents or, more likely, road type BB7s, and I should be good to go. (At least I will be once I change the bars and figure out fit issues.)
Then again, I might join the crowd who thought about it and decided not to.
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It's been mentioned a lot before I know but the Nashbar Trekking bar is a great, inexpensive way to add hand positions to a straight bar bike without the hassle of new shifters, etc. At the most it might require a new stem and some tape but that's easy compared to a full out drop bar conversion.
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^^^What he said. A trekking bar will give you multiple hand positions as well as the ability to get aero,and all your stock controls will swap over.
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I did this on my Schwinn Trailway and just flipped the rapid fires. Everything still works fine but I did have to replace / adjust the cables and raise the stem with a steerer tube extender.
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With SRAM, if you want to keep indexing, the easiest and cheapest thing to do - especially if your current trigger shifters aren't integrated with the brake levers - may be to use those Tektro V levers and to mount trigger shifters on Minoura Spacebars:
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Oh yeah, of course - space bars. Interesting idea!
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I see so many people (who obviously are going places, not just enjoying a bicycle tour) riding around in the city with drop bars, I never 100% understood why they are so popular. Obviously (judging by the shear number of cyclists with dropped bars around here) I'm missing something. I get the "not wanting to be stuck with one hand position" point, and I really get it. However for city riding, the low position of dropped bars seems inconvenient. I have bar extenders (I think that's what you call it), which gives me three different hand positions, which really works well (however, I have only quick access to the brakes from one hand position). Are dropped bars just a fashionable/cool thing to have?
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I see so many people (who obviously are going places, not just enjoying a bicycle tour) riding around in the city with drop bars, I never 100% understood why they are so popular. Obviously (judging by the shear number of cyclists with dropped bars around here) I'm missing something. I get the "not wanting to be stuck with one hand position" point, and I really get it. However for city riding, the low position of dropped bars seems inconvenient. I have bar extenders (I think that's what you call it), which gives me three different hand positions, which really works well (however, I have only quick access to the brakes from one hand position). Are dropped bars just a fashionable/cool thing to have?
A lot of dropbar riders are fixsters who are "rocking" very very low drops out of style (although the style is now the even more ridiculous low low chopped riser bars).
A lot of dropbar riders have their drops set at a reasonable height which is possible on cross/touring bikes.
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No, drop bars are not a fashion item.
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Third the Nashbar Trekking Bar recommendation. I just upgraded my rockhoppers' flat bar to this on Sunday. Just add bar tape and you are probably good to go. Provides a lot of hand positions at different heights without too much fuss installing on your current bike.
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... well, every position except what drops provide ...
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What about if you go the trekking bar route (have one on my Xtracycle) and add these?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013G6PB8/...0470_pe_vfe_d1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013G6PB8/...0470_pe_vfe_d1
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Thanks for all the info. I want to try drop bars so I can ride longer distances . I really like the idea of the spacebars, but I will also check out the trekking bar.
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Hmm ... you might also consider picking up a used steel 10-speed bike. It would be easier and wouldn't cost much.
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Incorrect. You can position the bar so that when you're on the top it's like the tops of a drop bar,when you're holding the sides it's similar to the hoods,and when you're on the bottoms it's the same position as being in the drops. I actually prefer it to drops because having your wrists flat feels more stable when going down a steep hill. You can also hold the upper corners when climbing for more leverage than hoods.
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it has a different shape so it can not provide the same positions
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I just bought a new bike with drop bars. I know, not necessarily an option for many, but then I had the versatillity of two bikes. Otherwise I would go for the trekking bar or mondo bar ends.
As for the why, set it up so that the drops are at or just above your lowest comfort limit, then you won't mind using them. If you go all "racer-boy" low on the handle bar, then the drops might be too far out of your comfort range. I find a bike set up where the drops are comfortable are a wonderful thing when facing a raging headwind.
As for the why, set it up so that the drops are at or just above your lowest comfort limit, then you won't mind using them. If you go all "racer-boy" low on the handle bar, then the drops might be too far out of your comfort range. I find a bike set up where the drops are comfortable are a wonderful thing when facing a raging headwind.
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I see so many people (who obviously are going places, not just enjoying a bicycle tour) riding around in the city with drop bars, I never 100% understood why they are so popular. Obviously (judging by the shear number of cyclists with dropped bars around here) I'm missing something. I get the "not wanting to be stuck with one hand position" point, and I really get it. However for city riding, the low position of dropped bars seems inconvenient. I have bar extenders (I think that's what you call it), which gives me three different hand positions, which really works well (however, I have only quick access to the brakes from one hand position). Are dropped bars just a fashionable/cool thing to have?
Noone says drop bars have to be low.