Hello,

I have a Scott Sportster P6:

https://scottusa.com/us_en/product/16...3/sportster_p6

I am buying a U-Lock, and even I measured the bike and I have the lock sizes, I still can't figure it out if the MINI u-lock fits my bike (I would love it because it's lighter than the standard), or if I won't be able to use it unless there are thin posts in the street. I live and bike around Boston/Cambridge.

U-Lock Standard: 4.53 x 9.06"
U-Lock Mini: 3.55 x 5.52"

Can anyone take a look at the P6's geometry and let me know if the Mini fits, and what's the best part in this bike to use the lock? Thanks!

the geo has a lot of tire clearance so i'd suggest an auxillary cable to lock the wheels with and then you'll be free to use the U on the frame, or try it on the seattube and rear rim if the post is thin enough. as long as the lock can fit around one frame tube and the locking post you should be okay. a mini-u is a huge weight difference, and for me at least is worth the extra weight, even with an auxillary cable.

like this:

If you use Sheldon Brown's locking technique, you simply lock the rear wheel within the inner triangle to an external object. The question is, what do you plan to lock your bike up to? I tried a Mini and didn't like it because it severely limits my locking options. I settled on a Kryptonite New York Lock (standard size) + cable to lock the seatpost. Works for me.

Update: just noticed you are posting about the Bulldog Mini. My "Mini" was a Kryptonite NYFU Mini. Not sure if dimensions are the same

I was actually thinking about the OnGuard Pitbull, but I guess it has the same size than the Bulldog.

i have the kryptonite EVO mini and its always worked for me. nice size.

by the way, look up Simple Living Cycles in Framingham. They sell the lock for $33. Cambridge Bikes for example wants $65 for it. Its worth a drive out there to load up on random accessories, all as cheap or cheaper than i can find online.

I like the Bulldog Mini with the long, narrow shackle... goes around the tire, the frame and a pole/rack, so there's no room for a jack, and no danger of someone screwing with the QR skewer, munging your running gear while they try in vain to get the frame free, which is a possibility with the Sheldon Method.

I have a bulldog mini. On most racks I can get the rear wheel and the frame locked with the mini. That's going around my fenders.

You'll be fine. The mini isn't all that mini. It's just that regular ulocks are ridiculously big.

They're worthless if you can't find a pole or bike rack, but all ulocks are that way.

The Pitbull Mini is $28 in Amazon. I'm almost ready to buy it because I love the idea of a light u-lock. I'm just concerned that if I wanna get the rear wheel and the frame, I will need to use the longest part (NOTE 1 in the pic); then I'll have the shortest (3.55") to put bike (about 1.5") and a thin post (2"). If I go with the standard, I win 1" for the post. But is ridiculously long and heavier... mmm... Another option is to cross the left frame over the rear wheel and some spokes using the shortest part (NOTE 2 in the pic), and with the longest part of the lock take a good post. What do you think?

Boston and Cambridge are a bad bet for a mini-U.

I've gone to locking the wheels with locking skewers & the frame top tube with the u-lock. Quick and easy, I'll be getting a mini Bulldog when the budget permits. Tamper-proof fasteners are fairly cheap, and should stop 99.9% of all thieves.

https://www.velo-orange.com/voansk.html

Hello,

I was with a specialist and he advised the following technique to use with a u-lock mini:
- Lock the back wheel to a pole, inside the triangle frame. In that way, even if they release the wheel they won't be able to take the frame or do anything because they will get stuck inside the triangle.

Picture shows where I would put the lock:



Please, let me know if the technique is good enough or if we were missing something.

Thanks.

It looks like it will work...IF you can get the lock around the U and whatever you're locking it to. Again, big if.

That's the best place to put a U-lock. If someone were to try and hacksaw it off. The pressure from the spokes would prevent the saw from cutting thru. As far as what U-lock to use. It depends on what length you get. As you can see from my picture above. I have the short length version. I can sometimes lock it around a small diameter pole and the wheel. If not, that's what I have the cable for. There's all kind of ways to wrap a cable around your bike to make it less easier to steal. And most thieves, if they see a U-lock in that equation will most likely bypass it. But, I'm still careful of where I lock it and how long I'm going to be gone. Here are some cool tips on how to lock your bike. https://www.streetfilms.org/archives/...final-warning/

I was selling the same Locking Skewers as VeloOrange; they are of good quality, work well. But with that Skewer you have to keep track of the "drilled Allen wrench".

Went to our own design, sell for a lot less, don't have to worry about hanging onto a special wrench (or key) for the rest of your cycling life. Field tested yesterday by a downtown bike messenger, posted vid to YouTube. Details: https://www.bikeregistry.com/estore/p...products_id=56

On Guard also does a midi size version of the pitbull. Same width as the bulldog mini but about a 1.5" longer shackle. 3.55 x 6.9". It gives additional locking options. Search for "On Guard Pitbull Medium".