Subject says it. What is it to you?

Is it a MTB with slicks? Is it a simple road bike with fenders? So, if you would fill in your answers to these questions maybe we can get a good discussion going Feel free to post URL's to your suggestions.

The only requirement is that it has to be an all-weather bike.

Frame type. Road? MTB? Hybrid? Specific model? New? Used?

Wheel size. 26"? 700C? other?

Tire size/type.

Drivetrain. Single Speed? Fixed? Derailer? Geared hub?

Brakes. Standard caliper or V? Discs? Coaster? Drum?

Storage: Rack+Panniers? Baskets? Trailer? Xtracycle?


Pardon me if I forgot anything!

Part of my motive is to get a nice thoughtful discussion going, but part of it is selfish too I want to build myself a new bicycle for commuting and general city riding this winter.

My opinion:

Touring bike with 700x25 or 28 tires (depending on roads), fenders, rear rack with panniers and rain covers if needed. I guess it depends on how far you have to ride, but if more than 15 miles or so round trip, I would go with a touring bike or cyclocross bike over a mtb with slicks.

Reliable deraillers, shifters, and brakes (LX or XT). High-spoke count wheels. Tires should be Armadillos or something similar, with thick tubes or Mr. Tuffy's.

I'd go with a performance hybrid. currently I'm riding a Norco Volante (Canadian make)(linky)

Pros:
-linear pull brakes (like MTBs, have more power than caliper brakes)
-flexibility in tires (go as thin as road racing tires, yet up to 35c for more comfort)
-tire size/speed (700c tires for speed, with higher gearing than a MTB)
-position (more aggressive than MTB, but more relaxed than road)
-weight (lighter than MTB, heavier than road bike)
-frame flexibility (hybrids easy to suit up with full fenders, racks)

Cons:
-no shocks for very bumpy roads (some comfort hybrids do have shocks, but often you're extremely upright body position then)
-lack the aerodynamic position of road bikes (should you want to get into racing)


Mind you the fact that you're building the bike is a big factor too. A hybrid wouldnt' need much anything changed (just adding some accessories). Whereas for a stock MTB or road bike, you might want to swap components for commuting.

Just a few thoughts,
-xan-

I use a Trek 520 Touring bike for my commute, and I have to say, I'm *VERY* happy with it. Not the fastest thing on the road, but not the slowest, either, and it can haul a load when I need it to. I keep up with most of the roadies, and pass all the mountain bikes.

Id rate a light-touring bike as the ultimate commuter. Deep drop calipers, up to 32mm tyres +fenders, rack, lights.
With horizontal dropouts you have the option of hub/fixed as well as derailleur gears.
I prefer touring drops (3TTT Morphe), but there's no reason you cant fit flats on the bike.
The ideal commuter is one you customise for your own conditions. You just have to be aware of the options, which extend way beyong anything you will see in the average big-brand bike shop.

Id rate a light-touring bike as the ultimate commuter. Deep drop calipers, up to 32mm tyres +fenders, rack, lights.
With horizontal dropouts you have the option of hub/fixed as well as derailleur gears.
I prefer touring drops (3TTT Morphe), but there's no reason you cant fit flats on the bike.
The ideal commuter is one you customise for your own conditions. You just have to be aware of the options, which extend way beyond anything you will see in the average big-brand bike shop.

I like the idea of a performance hybrid. Unfortunately, the bike you choose is made of hard alu and a low level chromoly frame like the crosscheck would be much better.

However, if you take this new Volante in New York City, I doubt it would last a month on the streets. After all the incidents I had with my folder when it was new, I'll NEVER commute with a new bike ever again. Now that my commuter is nice, dirty, scratched up and old, the kids leave it alone.

I would look for an old steel bike from Giant, Trek or Univega.

A track bike with no brakes and 25mm gatorskins

The only requirement is that it has to be an all-weather bike.

Frame type. Road? Hybrid? Specific model? New? Used? (you
pick but I prefer used)

Wheel size. 700C? (Yes, this is my choice)

Drivetrain. Derailer? Geared hub? (either one will do)

Brakes. Standard caliper or V? (yes, easy to maintain)

Storage: Rack+Panniers? Baskets? Trailer? Xtracycle? (all as
needed)
Fenders & rack? (YES! A must have.)

I'm also VERY interested in this type of bike altho I don't
think a bike like this is new by any means. Most folks'will
"run what ya brung" as a utility bike.

Thanks Everyone! Here are my personal picks but this is of course an open discussion. Lets focus on drivetrain too. WHY would you pick a certain kind?

Frame type. Road? MTB? Hybrid? Specific model? New? Used?
Used touring bike


Wheel size. 26"? 700C? other?
700C

Tire size/type.
700C/35 but I haven't tried it.

Drivetrain. Single Speed? Fixed? Derailer? Geared hub?
Split between SS and Geared hub

Brakes. Standard caliper or V? Discs? Coaster? Drum?
Was thinking Coaster rear, drum front, or geared hub with drum in back

Storage: Rack+Panniers? Baskets? Trailer? Xtracycle?
Rack+panniers, as you all said, adjust as needed.

I would say that a trailer is right out for commuting. I've dealt with one on tour, and have used one for grocery shopping from time to time, but I think that dealing with it everyday on my commute (i'm thinking parking/storing the bike here, mostly) is just a pain in the rear.

A touring bike has the mount points for front and rear racks and fenders.

For daily commuting, a pannier mounted bag of some sort (briefcase or backpack types being the most ideal for my situation) is a necessity. I cannot stand wearing a backpack or having a messenger bag over my shoulder when I'm riding for more than a mile or so.

Lets focus on drivetrain too. WHY would you pick a certain kind?

Drivetrain. Single Speed? Fixed? Derailer? Geared hub?
Split between SS and Geared hub

(IF you travel on flat a lot then the need for gears is
minimal. However, gearing of any type will make the ride
MUCH easier overall. Derailers offer much at a low cost
while internal gear hubs offer low maintaince but narrower
range.)

Brakes. Standard caliper or V? Discs? Coaster? Drum?
Was thinking Coaster rear, drum front, or geared hub with drum in back.

(overall any type of rim brake will be less costly and more effective than any drum/disk or coaster. by simple geometery
you are braking on the larger diameter of the wheel rather
than at the hub which strains the spokes big time.)

Kona Dr. Dew:

You haven't really described the terrain, weather, or destination enough to really be able to say much. The kind of bike you will want depends a lot on how far you're going, how hilly it is, how hot and cold it gets, availability of alternate transportation (for those sub -20 days), your physical condition, how much stuff you need to carry, availability of a shower at your destination, dress code at your destination, and storage at your destination.

There are five or six bicycle commuters at my office. Four of us regularly ride the same route of around 12 miles. We're riding a Steelman Eurocross (with new rack and a backpack on lots of gear days), a Specialized Sirrus (with rack), a Surly Crosscheck (with rack), and a Specialized Allez (with backpack). For summer, we're all running on a slick. The Eurocross and Allez have 23x700 Armadillos, the other two bikes have similar tires. I switch to cyclocross tires on the Eurocross for winter commuting but will probably try out Nokian studden tires for the icy part of late winter/early spring.

I'm hoping to get a trailer next month to pull two weeks of supplies with and then commute light for the rest of the two weeks.

It's really tough to buy a good commuting bike off the shop floor here the USA becuase my idea of a good commuting bike is not one of standard bike builds knocked out by Trek, Giant or the other big boys.

The drivetrain is the least important part of the bike. Cheaper derailers shift more clunky than the more pricey ones, but I wouldn't bet that a Dura Ace system is going to last one more mile than a Sora system. Remember. we're commuting here-- not racing or showing off to bike shop crowd/club riders. I've dug 25 year old bikes out of dumpster and almost always the derailers work. Internal hub gears last a really long time and are very cost effective.

I'd skip any suspention-- just something else to go wrong.

700 wheels are a little faster, but it's easier to find strong after market cheap 26" wheels. It's the rims that get trashed commuting-- sport bikers can coose not to ride on bad roads, in bad weather or in the dark. Commuters hit a lot more potholes and rough spots. Look for bikes that can take a 28-32mm tyre.

Fenders are a no brainer-- unless you like buying new chains and cassettes all the time. Rule #1 is keep the drivetrain clean and lubed.

Spending a 100 bucks on a light is good idea-- or even more. Waterproof panners and high end rain gear are helpful. In fact buying a old ten speed at Goodwill for 20 bucks and spending $450 on good tyres, panners, headlight, clothes is a way better idea than having a $600 bike and a no gear.

With all this said (sorry for the long post) I'd stick to a used bike or cheap hybrid. The bike isn't really total cost of everything you going to need to commute (50% maybe)
I got a 03 Fuji sarges for my brithday in May-- (my wife got it for $300 bucks at the bike shop on sale) It's a great commuter except the wheels are already out tune becuase the rims aren't that strong. So I'll be spending $300 on better wheels and tyres this winter for a $300 bike, to go with my $100 light, $60 rack, $120 trunk and panniers, $50 fenders (get SKS) and $60 rain gear and other commuter crap I've piled up over the years.

For all the money I have wrapped up in commuting I could have bought a pretty fine road bike and joined a club! Of cousre I have saved enough $$$$$ to pay for all the costs of my bike and gear and when I was poor, I got buy with much, much less.

I think it varies a lot depending on the specifics of your situation.

For me I have a 12 mile one way commute on a hilly high speed route. I don't think I would change much from my current set up. Steel frame cyclocross with fender/rack lugs (Surly Crosscheck) I ride it with fenders, but use a Carradice saddlebag instead of rack/panniers. Love the drops for the different hand positions and ability to get more streamlined in the prevailing afternoon headwind. 32 spoke wheels for strength and 700 c 25 slicks. Canti brakes, but wouldn't mind switching to V's. Couldn't live without the derailer cause of the hills ... I run out of gear for the long downhills but sometimes wish I had a triple for the steep uphills when I'm tired and loaded down going into the headwind on the way home. (36/48 with 12-25 cassette)

It's a nice setup and I sometimes pass dedicated road bikes, but if I couldn't store it in my office I probably would get someting a little more beat

PS I love the Carradice bag ... tons of room, even for a few assorted files. I carry my clothes and leave shoes at work.

I perfer a light-touring road bike (2002 Bianchi San Remo) with campy triple chainring and rear 12-26 9-spd cassette. 700-28 armadillo nimbus tires with a rear-rack and a grocery sack to throw my backpack in. SPD pedals and 36-spoke MAVIC touring rims. Brakes are Avid-Shorty-6, and I have a kickstand! I got tired of having to lean my bike against things or trying to find somplace to lay it down without hurting it. Kickstands are COOL!

I would put fenders on my bike, but I'm not sure I have enough clearence between the top of my fork and the front wheel. In the rear, the bottom of the rack works to keep the road-grime off my back.

My commuting environment is mostly open/windy (hence the road-geometry) on rural flat roads, but sometimes I like to take the long-way home that has some nasty hills (hence the triple).

If I had different conditions I think my choice would change significantly, but for what I do, this is my choice in bikes.

(Forgot to mention that storage at my workplace is VERY secure, otherwise I'd ride something cheaper)

Here's mine, considering it has to work in 30+C summer heat and through snowy icy streets in -30-C.

Frame - cromo mtb
Drivetrain - geared hub with sealed cables to keep the slush out, say the performance Nexus 8
Brakes - hub in rear, mech disc in front
Wheels - 26" mtb wheels, slicks in summer, spikers in winter
Fenders - yup, but easily removable for when everything is dry or frozen
Peddles - 1 side clipless, 1 side flat, like a Shimano 324
Misc - flat bar, 100mm 5deg stem, nice alm crank, etc

Price - I'd be willing to pay about 800cdn for a bike like that.

70s-80s steel roadie converted to fixed/free
fenders
perhaps a rack/panniers or a carradice
brooks saddle (either b17 or b67)
moustache bars
700 x 32c touring tires (schwalbe marathons, etc.)
eggbeaters

in winter,
add dyno-hub in front to power front and rear lights.
switch to 'cross tires.

this, for a 25-30 mile roundtrip, year round.

Must-haves:
Fenders, chainguard, internal gears, disk or drum brakes, hub generator, rack.
Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires in the summer; Nokian 106 Haks in the winter.

A trailer is good for dropping off kids on the way to work, snagging groceries. When I don't need to do this, I leave the trailer at home and carry only a U-lock and rain gear.

Probably cheaper to start with something like a Utopia, Kettler, a Breezer than with a recreational bike. In particular, chainguards are hard to find.

Paul

after commuting for a while, I think that probably the best bike for a commute would be an aluminum SS mountain bike (w/rigid fork). something like that would not be hurt by salty roads, rain or grit a whole lot. I would choose drop bars for a longer, less-traffiked commute, and flat bars for a more city-like commute. I would probably want rhyno lites with a fairly fat slick that wouldn't puncture too easily. v-brakes front and rear, I say this becuase disks are too flashy, and i think would get ripped off too easily.

of course this all depends on the circunstances of your commute. if you can change your clothes, I'd go without fenders, mostly becuase they limit your tire size, and they dont look cool. if you ride in the dark a lot, I'd get a light, but not a hub generator type of light, just becuase they are really expensive. if your commute is over 5-6 miles, i'd go with a trunk rack instead of a backpack. shorter that though, a backpack is fine.

my bike :

cheap 1989 China made road bike carbon frame (That's all I can afford)
wheel size = 27"
drive train = SS (It is too heavy with gear... gotta throw it)
brake = standard or V
storage = rack

weather = no snow but lots of rain
distance = 25 km 2 ways but I am starting on 40 - 50 this week
conclusion : I love my roadie, why would anybody want to buy a bicycle that is so expensive ??

That thing would be stolen here quicker than I can steal stuff from work.

For urban assault, I prefer an hardtail MTB with 26 inch semi slick Armadillo Hemispheres. I like the tough wheel/tire combination so I don't have to be picky about debris and potholes. Disk brakes are also nice so you don't have to deal with brake fade in the rain.

An MTB is also easier to get onto busses and trains since it's smaller.

I think a light touring/cyclocross is the best bike for commuting (most light touring and cyclocross bikes have similar frames). With commuters, you need a good balance of performance, function and comfort, and cyclocross bikes fit the bill perfectly. They're more stable than straight road bikes, but nearly as fast. Cyclocross bikes are much faster than mountain bikes. They don't have the cargo capacity of a true loaded touring bike (like Trek 520), but with panniers they have plenty of space for commuting gear (clothes, etc.)

Though some people swear by them, I don't think a loaded touring bike is a good choice for commuting unless you only want one bike and actually plan on doing loaded tours. Loaded touring bikes are slow, and less stable when they aren't fully loaded because of the geometry. Before I got my bike, I tried out the Trek 520 (unloaded) and it felt less stable on fast decents than my cyclocross.