+1000000000

I would echo the sentiment in general. Love Kool Stops. However, it's especially important here because Tektro pads are absolutely AWFUL.

I've got the CR720s, and I like them quite a bit. Easy to set up, easy to adjust. I wish the spring adjuster screws were a bit longer, but they should be enough to tune out any assymetry in the post alignment of good bikes (as opposed to my crappy bike). Only other thing I had to change was the stud bolts, which were actually too long, and left too much play in the arms which led to braking shudder.

Replaced older DiaCompe brake, one with an eliptic aduster of some kind built into it, with Tektro Oryx on the rear of our tandem. Loads more easy to adjust. Lacks the power of the original Diacompe setup, but it's good enough that I haven't really put much time into looking too far into it.

Currently running Tektro 720 cantis on my commuter Nexus/cross bike, with standard Sachs aero road levers. This setup works very well, and I have absolutely no complaints about braking.

Just got a bike with Avid BB7 brakes and the Cane Creek v-brake compatible aero road levers. Complete overkill for unloaded riding, but the brakes are pretty amazing.

Disk brakes can be much more difficult to set up without any rubbing than V-brakes or or cantis for that matter...

Just a note about the Tektro 720s and other high-profile cantilevers: though it is commonly believed that they have more stopping power than low-profile brakes (like the Tektro Oryx or Cane Creek SCR-5), this is incorrect. The geometry of cantilever brakes is such that lower profile brakes will have more mechanical advantage and will be more powerful; v-brakes are basically an extreme example of what happens when you obey that principle, with their cable attachment points horizontally near to but high above the rim. Wide-profile cantis are useful for improving mud clearance. This is a concern if you're racing cyclocross, but for most uses low-profile cantilevers are a better choice.

I use SCR-5s on my LHT. There's no question that they aren't as powerful as a set of v-brakes, or a high-quality dual-pivot caliper. But they do stop the bike when you squeeze on them, and if you squeeze hard they even do a pretty good job. I would join everyone else in recommending Kool Stop salmon compound brake pads. They make a big difference.

As I understand it it's not just the raw mechanical advantage of the brake arm geometry, but the overall stopping power of the entire system, which includes the combined advantage based on the straddle and the brake lever. I could be wrong.
A wide profile canti can be set up to be just as effective as a narrow profile, but neither will be as effective as a properly adjusted linear pull ("V") brake. The big problem with adjusting a wide profile canti for maximum efficacy is the necessity for a long (really long) straddle wire, which on touring bikes can interfere with rear rack struts. The other issue with wide profiles is interference with panniers, or in the case of larger riders, with calves and heels.

If I'm not mistaken, the SCX-5 canti from Cane Creek is a rebranded Tektro Oryx. They're both a reasonable brake when outfitted with good pads. My personal issue against them is the difficulty in changing threaded-post pads, and due to my slightly retrogrouchy nature regarding mechanical issues I'm more familiar with setting up wide profile brakes.

I have oryx upfront and cr720's on the rear. I swapped my Cross Check fork for a lht and it came with good pads on some oryx. I can't tell the difference. The oryx have way more clearance for my Surly Nice Rack.

The Tektro Oryxes are fine. The from-the-factory pads are not so great.

I'd suggest using Koolstop salmons. I use the MTB pads.

just curious - why did you choose to go with the LHT over the Fargo esp. since the FARGO is disc only?

Purely on the fact that the LHT is cheaper, we could not really justify 2 Fargos and the wife won the "who is getting the Fargo" debate.