I've pretty much given up on my generator rear light for my Breezer, as it doesn't work in the rain and the wiring sometimes gives out.

So on the rear rack, I want to install a blinkie in the place of the rear light. I want a large blinkie, that goes under the rack and mounts to a plate, recessed a half inch or so from the back of the rack. That's significant, since I don't want to reach under the rack to behind that plate to turn the light on or off. I need a side or bottom switch.

Any advice?

BTW, I'm going to try and relocate the generator to the front wheel and still run the front light off of it. This would be a nice second light for me, and a good back up in case the batteries die on my front light.

Has anyone done this?

CatEye TL-1100

Requires the US standard of two vertical holes. They even include the screw in the box. You can recycle all the other mounts in there.

TIP: The screw is self-tapping. Screw it in before mounting to tap the threads. Then unscrew and mount.

Also note on the LD1100 that if the rack's metal mount is really thin, the self-tapping bolt can go into the light far enough to put a bulge in the battery compartment, as I found out the hard way on my LD1000 when the batteries wouldn't come out anymore You can use a washer under the head of the bolt to prevent that, if necessary.

What these guys said but with pictures.






I used a shortened screw and some sealant to keep it in place. (I punctured my battery case too)

All hail the electric pickle!

(snortle) That's what SHE said!

Nice pics. How waterproof are those lights?

I didn't describe this too well--sorry!

The light I've got on my blinkie now is just like the one on the back of this rack:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...d=116973726562

That one's coming off, as it's the one coupled to the generator, and I'm replacing it with a blinkie. Behind this light is a plate, and this is what the new light must install to.

Sure, well if the plate doesn't already have the US-standard over-under hole pattern, you can drill it to accomodate that. The light is pretty waterproof, and the only opening is well off-axis at the end of the light, where it doesn't get direct tire spray. And that has a rubber gasket. It should do well for you.

Another fact about the LD1100: they won't put out nearly as much light on low voltages. The best performance will be with non-rechargeable Lithium cells, e.g. Energizer Lithium Ultimate or Lithium Advanced, because they have high initial voltage and can maintain it through most of their lifespan. Alkaline and NiMH will not produce as much light. With alkaline, your light output will decline steadily through the life of the batteries.

Ooooo, what's THIS button do?

I'd say re-check your wiring and stick with a generator lamp; but I'm a dynolight freak. If you're running fenders, you can get a B&M Seculite Plus for $35. It mounts to the fender, and you can use reflective tape to secure the wiring up the length of the fender before getting it to the frame where you zip-tie it.
If you're having slippage issues with the generator in the rain, consider replacing your rubber contact wheel with a wire brush. I think they have them at Harris or Peter White for around $5.00 each.

Very. That location gets lots of spray and I haven't had any trouble.

What you need...as a direct replacement...is a Busch and Muller light. They aren't nearly as bright as other lights out there, nor does it flash, but it would be a direct replacement.

The 'electric pickle' does flash. You can also get an adapter so that you can mount a Planet Bike Superflash on your rack. That one does flash...very brightly I would suggest, however, that you use a zip tie to keep the PB Superflash from falling apart

I'm not sure how to recheck the wiring. Any advise?

Unhook the leads from the lamp, check the current with an ammeter. Wiggle the wire at a few places. If the wire is broken, you see the current drop when you wiggle things around.
The typical break point on wiring is right at the neck of the spade connectors, and you can check that just be feeling if it's flexing too much (meaning most of the copper strands are snapped.)

I'm going to guess that what you have is a bottle generator, since you mention moving it from the rear to the front wheel. If that's the case, the intermittent working in the rain is likely due to contact wheel slippage against the wet tire. That's why I mentioned the wire brush roller replacement. I saw them on one of those two sites for using a bottle gennie in wet/snowy conditions. The wire brush grips far better than the normal rubber capped friction wheel.

So far as I know the wire roller only fits the Busch & Muller Dymotec bottle generators. If the Breezer has another brand of bottle dynamo you are out of luck as far as using it. Also now closer to $12 I believe according to Peter White Cycles web site. I bought one but have not used it yet.