Tips for using toe strap pedals?
#1
Tips for using toe strap pedals?
I've always used platform pedals. However my new bike that I just got came with toe strap pedals. I am having a crap time getting one of my foot in it. Any tips?
I think these pedals may help in climbing some inclines on my commute. But there are some parts which requires me to get off one foot (lights, crossings etc). So it can be a bit frustrating.
I think these pedals may help in climbing some inclines on my commute. But there are some parts which requires me to get off one foot (lights, crossings etc). So it can be a bit frustrating.
#2
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Bikes: '08 Schwinn Super Sport "Betty, '09 Trek 1.2 "Veronica"
I keep my straps just loose enough to slip my shoes in and out. I found they helped out a lot with foot fatigue, my feet kept slipping all over the pedals. Get on your bike, put your feet in the straps and have someone cinch them on your feet. If you can have an LBS help with this, all the better.
#3
When I used straps and clips, I just rode with them and figured it out with time and practice.
Some pedals are better than others, like MKS GR9, because they have a big tab on the back to help flip the pedal up.
Some pedals are better than others, like MKS GR9, because they have a big tab on the back to help flip the pedal up.
#5
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.

Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 13,863
Likes: 6
From: Washington, DC
Bikes: Some bikes. Hell, they're all the same, ain't they?
+1 to what Brian said about keeping them loose enough to use easily. You don't need to cinch them down much unless you're really beating hard on the bike, and even then, I don't like how I don't get as much "float" as I do with clipless pedals. They also can be found in different sizes, so if you've got big feet, you might have an easier time with larger cages.
While we're talking about toe straps, make sure you have the strap routed correctly through the buckle. I've gotten on some spin bikes this winter that had the strap routed snugly and neatly through the buckle, just like it was a small version of a belt for holding up your pants. The problem, though, was that it was damn near impossible to adjust with one hand, and certainly impossible to do it in less than three seconds. I always change them so that the strap crosses through the grippy tip of the buckle and hangs free, as seen in the top picture here. Tightening them only needs a tug on the strap, and loosening requires just a flick of the buckle.
https://boulderfixedgear.blogspot.com...ap-lacing.html
While we're talking about toe straps, make sure you have the strap routed correctly through the buckle. I've gotten on some spin bikes this winter that had the strap routed snugly and neatly through the buckle, just like it was a small version of a belt for holding up your pants. The problem, though, was that it was damn near impossible to adjust with one hand, and certainly impossible to do it in less than three seconds. I always change them so that the strap crosses through the grippy tip of the buckle and hangs free, as seen in the top picture here. Tightening them only needs a tug on the strap, and loosening requires just a flick of the buckle.
https://boulderfixedgear.blogspot.com...ap-lacing.html
#6
I am a caffine girl
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Bay Area
Bikes: 2012 Stumpjumper FSR Comp...2010 Scott CR1 CF...2007 Novara FS Float2.0...2009 Specialized Hardrock Disc...2009 Schwinn Le Tour GSr
Here how I got used to mine. First off, adjust your stronger leg strap to a good fit (the leg you use to push down on the pedal to get rolling). Then adjust the pedal strap on your weaker leg so it is loose. Insert your stronger leg into pedal strap while standing on your weaker leg and as to prepare to mount and start rolling. Kick down on your stronger leg and take your weaker leg to crank the pedal several turn but with the weaker feet out of the strap. It does not matter if you are smashing the strap or have the pedal upside down. Chances are that pedal will be upside down from the balance of the strap tipping it fwd. Now just get your balance and slow rolling motion started. Once traffic cleared and you are rolling, push down on your feet that'S already have your feet inside the strap and keep that pedal down at the 6 o'clock position. Now take the point of your weaker feet and slighty push the edge of the pedal which will make it horizontal if it is not. Now smoothly slide that feet into the loose strap.
Sound hard but once you get used to it, you can do this with just half a revolution of the crank. Good luck with your pratice.
Sound hard but once you get used to it, you can do this with just half a revolution of the crank. Good luck with your pratice.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Westwood MA (just south of Boston)
Bikes: 2009 Trek Soho
Here how I got used to mine. First off, adjust your stronger leg strap to a good fit (the leg you use to push down on the pedal to get rolling). Then adjust the pedal strap on your weaker leg so it is loose. Insert your stronger leg into pedal strap while standing on your weaker leg and as to prepare to mount and start rolling. Kick down on your stronger leg and take your weaker leg to crank the pedal several turn but with the weaker feet out of the strap. It does not matter if you are smashing the strap or have the pedal upside down. Chances are that pedal will be upside down from the balance of the strap tipping it fwd. Now just get your balance and slow rolling motion started. Once traffic cleared and you are rolling, push down on your feet that'S already have your feet inside the strap and keep that pedal down at the 6 o'clock position. Now take the point of your weaker feet and slighty push the edge of the pedal which will make it horizontal if it is not. Now smoothly slide that feet into the loose strap.
Sound hard but once you get used to it, you can do this with just half a revolution of the crank. Good luck with your pratice.
Sound hard but once you get used to it, you can do this with just half a revolution of the crank. Good luck with your pratice.
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Binghamton, NY
Bikes: Workcycles FR8, 2016 Jamis Coda Comp, 2008 Surly Long Haul Trucker
You can losen them a bit or buy larger ones (if necessary) like BarracksSi and Brian T. said. You can also look to change pedals and try them out on another set.
I personally use PowerGrips and have them on both my bikes. If you don't change shoes to often you don't have to adjust them once you put them on.
I personally use PowerGrips and have them on both my bikes. If you don't change shoes to often you don't have to adjust them once you put them on.
#9
I am a caffine girl
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,815
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area
Bikes: 2012 Stumpjumper FSR Comp...2010 Scott CR1 CF...2007 Novara FS Float2.0...2009 Specialized Hardrock Disc...2009 Schwinn Le Tour GSr

Oh yes OP, one more suggestion to try. Try different tennis shoes or whatever shoe you pedal with. Some shoes have a wider area at the ball area of your foot which make it more or less harder to learn.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 308
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From: Medford, OR
If you just ride around with them for awhile, then you won't even think about it. It takes a range of times to over come looking down to get in or forgetting to get out but eventually you are just an old hat at it and never even think about it. They are called toe clips if you didn't know. I think it took me all of 2 or 3 months and I was totally with out thought of the pedal or toe clip, it was just starting and stopping as if I was using flats. I think one would benefit from going though this. Mind you I was/am a life long bike rider. Times will vary. 
The one thing I will warn you of. Once you get used to it, it is easy at first to forget about them altogether and you don't pull out and fall over. Good luck on that, but it will pass in time as well.

The one thing I will warn you of. Once you get used to it, it is easy at first to forget about them altogether and you don't pull out and fall over. Good luck on that, but it will pass in time as well.
#12
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From: Michigan
Bikes: Windsor Fens, Giant Seek 0 (2014, Alfine 8 + discs)
Keep them loose, you'll get used to it. I usually have either the toe clip pedals or the SPDs on my bike, and I can get into and out of either one about as fast.
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#13
You gonna eat that?
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Fort Worth, Texas Church of Hopeful Uncertainty
Bikes: 1966 Raleigh DL-1 Tourist, 1973 Schwinn Varsity, 1983 Raleigh Marathon, 1994 Nishiki Sport XRS
This is how I roll.
I had toe clips with straps on my 84 Nishiki and never got used to the straps. I got rid of them and I've been rolling toe clips/no straps ever since.
I had toe clips with straps on my 84 Nishiki and never got used to the straps. I got rid of them and I've been rolling toe clips/no straps ever since.
#14
rebmeM roineS

Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,230
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From: Metro Indy, IN
Bikes: Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
Mini-clips, designed for use without straps, are more durable than toe clips used without straps. My light and delicate wife broke a plastic toe clip (no strap) - no problem with mini-clips.
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Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
#15
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Seattle
Bikes: Nishiki Olympic 12 Mixte, Raleigh DL-1 lady
It is my understanding that loose toe straps don't do much to improve pedaling efficiency. They are supposed to be tightened and worn with stiff soled cycling shoes. If you want to get in and off the pedals easily, clipless pedals are more effective and will improve pedaling efficiency. If you want to wear whatever shoes you want, lose the toe clips and straps-- I use real rubber block pedals and wear whatever shoes I want, even my nice soft leather shoes/boots.
#16
thanks for all the great suggestions. I think I will practise around the neighbourhood before riding this new bike to work. It's winter anyways.
One of my frustration is the left pedal seems to always spin downwards making it difficult to place my foot into the cage. No such issue with the right cage. Is there something to adjust?
At the moment, I keep the straps fairly loose and after I read one of the comment about tightening it, I think the way I loop my straps, that would not be possible.
Any ideas on what is the right way to loop the straps? Mine' just a regular metal Wellgo cages.
One of my frustration is the left pedal seems to always spin downwards making it difficult to place my foot into the cage. No such issue with the right cage. Is there something to adjust?
At the moment, I keep the straps fairly loose and after I read one of the comment about tightening it, I think the way I loop my straps, that would not be possible.
Any ideas on what is the right way to loop the straps? Mine' just a regular metal Wellgo cages.
#18
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: beantown
Bikes: '89 Specialized Hardrock Fixed Gear Commuter; 1984? Dawes Atlantis
Don't tuck the tag end of the strap in, leave it loose so that you can adjust it while riding, much easier done with a freewheeled bike than a fixed gear.
Also, twist the strap where it runs through the pedal to help keep it in place.
Also, twist the strap where it runs through the pedal to help keep it in place.
#19
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.

Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 13,863
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From: Washington, DC
Bikes: Some bikes. Hell, they're all the same, ain't they?
A lot of toeclip-equipped pedals also have a small tab on the underside to make this kind of flip easier.
#21
+1 That's what I do too.
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#23
so, you have two feet, right? That's good cause it's one hell of a lot easier that way. One foot (your choice which one) stays in the pedal pretty much all the time. I almost never remove my right foot from the toe clip when riding, even at stop signs and the like, it just hangs out in place. Because it's not going anywhere, I can tighten the strap down more than the left foot. This keeps in it place better, and allows me to pedal in more of the circle.
For the left foot (or it could be right) you have to treat it a bit differently. For starters, you are going to have to enter this toe clip while moving, which takes a bit of practice. I suggest starting with the arch of your foot on the bottom of the pedal (opposite the toe clip) and moving it backwards in a scraping motion. This usually flips the pedal upright, allowing you to slide your foot in. Remember, Practice makes perfect.
Once your left foot is in, you can reach down, and pull the strap to cinch it down. However, this means you might have to loosen it before coming to a stop, which is a pain. Try and find a happy medium, where your foot is held in place, but can still be easily removed.
For the left foot (or it could be right) you have to treat it a bit differently. For starters, you are going to have to enter this toe clip while moving, which takes a bit of practice. I suggest starting with the arch of your foot on the bottom of the pedal (opposite the toe clip) and moving it backwards in a scraping motion. This usually flips the pedal upright, allowing you to slide your foot in. Remember, Practice makes perfect.
Once your left foot is in, you can reach down, and pull the strap to cinch it down. However, this means you might have to loosen it before coming to a stop, which is a pain. Try and find a happy medium, where your foot is held in place, but can still be easily removed.
#24
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Edmonton, Canada
It'll just take time to get used to. There's a motion to putting your foot in that you have to get used to, but after a while it becomes second nature. Even when ride a rental bike with platforms, I tend to subconsciously flip the pedal over. One problem I have is one pair of shoes has too blunt of a toe, so I can't ride with those shoes. Also, it's more challenging in cold weather when the pedal doesn't rotate as freely.
#25
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Montreal
Bikes: Peugeot Hybrid, Minelli Hybrid
While we're talking about toe straps, make sure you have the strap routed correctly through the buckle. I've gotten on some spin bikes this winter that had the strap routed snugly and neatly through the buckle, just like it was a small version of a belt for holding up your pants. The problem, though, was that it was damn near impossible to adjust with one hand, and certainly impossible to do it in less than three seconds. I always change them so that the strap crosses through the grippy tip of the buckle and hangs free, as seen in the top picture here. Tightening them only needs a tug on the strap, and loosening requires just a flick of the buckle.
https://boulderfixedgear.blogspot.com...ap-lacing.html

https://boulderfixedgear.blogspot.com...ap-lacing.html






