New commuter in need of advice
#1
Thread Starter
Vermonticus Outdoorsus
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 308
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From: Burlington, VT
Bikes: Specialized Rockhopper circa 1993
New commuter in need of advice
Hi there, I am a very new commuter. I have been lurking here for about a week, and read some great advice somewhere here about taking your bike in to work with you on a Friday morning, and riding home after work, and then riding back on Saturday to pick up the car as a sort of "test commute". Well, I did it, and it wasn't so bad, I think I will be doing it on most days if it stays dry.
Here's the questions though... I have been doing longer rides on weekends (30-45 miles) and my fingers keep going numb. I am riding a Specialized Rockhopper with bar ends on the handlebars, but I find the bar ends to be too thin and hard. Is there a way to make them thicker or cushier? Maybe wrapping some kind of foam around them, or would that make them unstable? What kind of fenders are best for a mountain bike, or do they even make them? And, how do I get my D*mn light to stay on the little clippy thing... it slips off and crashes into the road every time I go over a pothole. (lots of potholes here in Vermont...) What about rain? I would really like to ride in the rain, but have never done it, and am a little worried about slippery roads.
Any advice would be appreciated. Oh, my commute is 12 miles with a REALLY big hill about 2 miles from my house (uphill on the way in).
Thanks so much, Kim
Here's the questions though... I have been doing longer rides on weekends (30-45 miles) and my fingers keep going numb. I am riding a Specialized Rockhopper with bar ends on the handlebars, but I find the bar ends to be too thin and hard. Is there a way to make them thicker or cushier? Maybe wrapping some kind of foam around them, or would that make them unstable? What kind of fenders are best for a mountain bike, or do they even make them? And, how do I get my D*mn light to stay on the little clippy thing... it slips off and crashes into the road every time I go over a pothole. (lots of potholes here in Vermont...) What about rain? I would really like to ride in the rain, but have never done it, and am a little worried about slippery roads.
Any advice would be appreciated. Oh, my commute is 12 miles with a REALLY big hill about 2 miles from my house (uphill on the way in).
Thanks so much, Kim
#2
Every lane is a bike lane


Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 9,666
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From: Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia - passionfruit capital of the universe!
I'll chime in on the rain bit, because I actively seek it whenever I can. Rain isn't really a big deal as far as making the roads overly slippery is concerned. In fact, heavy rain will make them considerably less slippery by washing away the oil buildup on the road. However, light rain can be a problem because the oil just sits on the top. The best thing to do is to take it a little easier. Take the corners slower and don't lean into them. Brake earlier for traffic lights and such to allow yourself an extra couple of seconds to slow down, and try to avoid slamming on the brakes if possible (you might consider riding slightly slower to facilitate this).
In answer to your light question, you might need to provide a little more information. What brand of light is it? What type of mounting system does it have?
In answer to your light question, you might need to provide a little more information. What brand of light is it? What type of mounting system does it have?
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#3
Thread Starter
Vermonticus Outdoorsus
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 308
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From: Burlington, VT
Bikes: Specialized Rockhopper circa 1993
The light is a Trek LED that clips into a track sort of thingy. It makes a "click" when it clips in and there is a release button to get it off the mount, but any hard bump makes it fall off. Hope this helps!
#4
Every lane is a bike lane


Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 9,666
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From: Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia - passionfruit capital of the universe!
It helps some, I think I had a light like that once (a Trek in anycase). I understand the mount has a screw that tightens it, would that be correct? Is the whole mount coming off or just the light? If it's the whole mount, try positioning it closer to the centre of the handlebars. If it's just the light, examine the mount carefully, something very small may be broken.
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#5
Thread Starter
Vermonticus Outdoorsus
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 308
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From: Burlington, VT
Bikes: Specialized Rockhopper circa 1993
The mount is a little loose. The guy at the bike shop said that he was going to leave it a little loose until I figured out what angle I wanted it at. Maybe that was a bad idea? The mount stays on, it is the light that comes unclipped from the mount. I will check it in the daylight tomorrow though, and tighten the screw. Thanks again!
#6
You could wrap your bar ends with road bike bar tape. It will make them thicker and add padding.
If you have knobby tires, consider getting some slicks. Specialized Armadillo Hemisphere or Nimbus are good choices for commuting. Fewer flats (if any) and less rolling resistance.
Replace the light with a different model or run some duct tape around it to hold it down.
There are plenty of fenders for MTBs. Check Performance, Nashbar, your local bike shop, etc.
You'll need to figure out how to get your work clothes to work and how to get cleaned up when you get there. Some people drive in on Monday with a weeks worth of clothes they leave behind. Some take a change of clothes. You can haul your clothes on a backpack, but depending on the heat and length of commute, you might find that uncomfortable. I prefer a large Carradice saddlebag (actually one of their smaller ones) that are available from www.wallbike.com or www.harriscyclery.com. Some people use one or two panniers. If you don't have a shower at work, remember that baby wipes are your friend.
Good luck with your commute and welcome to the club. Smile every time you pass a gas station.
If you have knobby tires, consider getting some slicks. Specialized Armadillo Hemisphere or Nimbus are good choices for commuting. Fewer flats (if any) and less rolling resistance.
Replace the light with a different model or run some duct tape around it to hold it down.
There are plenty of fenders for MTBs. Check Performance, Nashbar, your local bike shop, etc.
You'll need to figure out how to get your work clothes to work and how to get cleaned up when you get there. Some people drive in on Monday with a weeks worth of clothes they leave behind. Some take a change of clothes. You can haul your clothes on a backpack, but depending on the heat and length of commute, you might find that uncomfortable. I prefer a large Carradice saddlebag (actually one of their smaller ones) that are available from www.wallbike.com or www.harriscyclery.com. Some people use one or two panniers. If you don't have a shower at work, remember that baby wipes are your friend.
Good luck with your commute and welcome to the club. Smile every time you pass a gas station.
#7
Thread Starter
Vermonticus Outdoorsus
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 308
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From: Burlington, VT
Bikes: Specialized Rockhopper circa 1993
I was wondering about tape for the bar ends. Does it last, or do you have to keep replacing it/adding more?
I have "city boy" tires right now, which are still pretty knobby. I am going to be getting some slicks, but they are low priority right now. A pump, spare tube and a rack are at the top of my list right now.
Duct Tape sounds like an excellent idea, it would make it much less likely to be stolen as well I would think.
As for work clothes, I am going to be carrying them in a backpack for now until I get a rack. I have some old panniers, but they don't close, they are really only made for holding grocery bags, but I think I can put a bag in them. I need to get a rack to attach them to though.
And, last but not least, luckily there are showers where I work, and I have a locker that is pretty big, so I can keep a towel, and supplies in there.
Thanks for the welcome, I am already grinning at just the idea of filling my tank less often!
I have "city boy" tires right now, which are still pretty knobby. I am going to be getting some slicks, but they are low priority right now. A pump, spare tube and a rack are at the top of my list right now.
Duct Tape sounds like an excellent idea, it would make it much less likely to be stolen as well I would think.
As for work clothes, I am going to be carrying them in a backpack for now until I get a rack. I have some old panniers, but they don't close, they are really only made for holding grocery bags, but I think I can put a bag in them. I need to get a rack to attach them to though.
And, last but not least, luckily there are showers where I work, and I have a locker that is pretty big, so I can keep a towel, and supplies in there.
Thanks for the welcome, I am already grinning at just the idea of filling my tank less often!
#8
Every lane is a bike lane


Joined: Apr 2000
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Likes: 16
From: Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia - passionfruit capital of the universe!
A roll of duct tape is also useful to carry with you. You can't imagine just how many uses you can find for it in the case of a road-side breakdown.
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#9
Wow it sounds like you have the same problems I had when I started. Get your pump, a seat bag, and a tube repair kit (I use the stick-on ones) and get some better lighting. Slicks are a must, make it a priority. I run 1.5's but will run 1.0's when I have the $$ for the tires and tubes for that size. Take the same precautions as you would in a car for rain. Visibility is the biggest limiting factor that I noticed.
Have fun!
Have fun!
#11
Every lane is a bike lane


Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 9,666
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From: Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia - passionfruit capital of the universe!
1.5 and 1.0 refers to the width of the tyre -- in inches. I'm running 1.9's, but that's only for Queensland's notorious "roads".
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I am clinically insane. I am proud of it.
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#12
See if your local bike shop has a used rack just lyin' around. Maybe they carry cork handlebar tape, & some gel gloves to give a little cushion.
Glad to hear that your givin' it a try, and if that hill gives you a hard time just remember that you were given two feet long before you got a bike.
Glad to hear that your givin' it a try, and if that hill gives you a hard time just remember that you were given two feet long before you got a bike.
#13
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 12,948
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From: England
Are you wearing any gloves. These will absorb some of the stress, but more importatnly will protect your hands from being seriously lacerated if you crash.
Numb hands are caused by pressure on a nerve. Use bar tape to re-shape your grips to place the pressure in the palm of your hands, not the edge (like a modern power drip handle). I use bits of old inner tube for padding.
Off road fenders have lots of clearance for mud, but for road riding, the closer they are the better they work. Full length fenders attatched to the threaded eyelets on your frame work best.
Numb hands are caused by pressure on a nerve. Use bar tape to re-shape your grips to place the pressure in the palm of your hands, not the edge (like a modern power drip handle). I use bits of old inner tube for padding.
Off road fenders have lots of clearance for mud, but for road riding, the closer they are the better they work. Full length fenders attatched to the threaded eyelets on your frame work best.
#14
FixedGearQueer

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 651
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From: Columbia Heights, DC
Bikes: 2005 IRO, 198x Bianchi Stelvio
Gloves really helped me with numbness.
As far as rain, I just got some Nimbus EX tires and I like them. Haven't ridden them in the rain, but have in the aftermath and it wasn't so bad. The only thing I hate about riding int he rain is water on my glasses intefering with my vision.
As far as rain, I just got some Nimbus EX tires and I like them. Haven't ridden them in the rain, but have in the aftermath and it wasn't so bad. The only thing I hate about riding int he rain is water on my glasses intefering with my vision.
#15
Thread Starter
Vermonticus Outdoorsus
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 308
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From: Burlington, VT
Bikes: Specialized Rockhopper circa 1993
Originally Posted by MichaelW
Are you wearing any gloves. These will absorb some of the stress, but more importatnly will protect your hands from being seriously lacerated if you crash.
Numb hands are caused by pressure on a nerve. Use bar tape to re-shape your grips to place the pressure in the palm of your hands, not the edge (like a modern power drip handle). I use bits of old inner tube for padding.
Off road fenders have lots of clearance for mud, but for road riding, the closer they are the better they work. Full length fenders attatched to the threaded eyelets on your frame work best.
Numb hands are caused by pressure on a nerve. Use bar tape to re-shape your grips to place the pressure in the palm of your hands, not the edge (like a modern power drip handle). I use bits of old inner tube for padding.
Off road fenders have lots of clearance for mud, but for road riding, the closer they are the better they work. Full length fenders attatched to the threaded eyelets on your frame work best.
What a fantabulous idea about wrapping the grips to prevent the pressure point on the heel of my hands!! I hadn't thought about that. I had these really old, crappy gloves, but bought some new ones today that have much more padding. I hadn't thought about hand protection during a crash before either, good point.
I actually am bikeless for the moment. My bike shop keeps "repairing" the gears on my bike, but it keeps doing the same thing. (Not shifting into the smallest gear in the front) They keep replacing parts, but at least have stopped charging me labor, so hopefully I will be back on the road by the end of the week. I was looking forward to this week being my first full week of commuting every day. Ah well, guess there's always next week. (and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that....)
#17
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 185
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From: Montreal, Canada
Bikes: 2001 Trek XO1, 2009 Ridley Crossbow
Originally Posted by CommuterKat
What kind of fenders are best for a mountain bike, or do they even make them? And, how do I get my D*mn light to stay on the little clippy thing... it slips off and crashes into the road every time I go over a pothole. (lots of potholes here in Vermont...) What about rain? I would really like to ride in the rain, but have never done it, and am a little worried about slippery roads.
Any advice would be appreciated. Oh, my commute is 12 miles with a REALLY big hill about 2 miles from my house (uphill on the way in).
Thanks so much, Kim
Any advice would be appreciated. Oh, my commute is 12 miles with a REALLY big hill about 2 miles from my house (uphill on the way in).
Thanks so much, Kim
As for rain, on the nice warm days of summer, it keeps one cool. Even on the colder days as long as you are heading indoors after a ride, it's not so bad & still, it helps you cool down. I ride all-weather conditions until the beginning of December. The winters in Quebec, much like VT, can get pretty rough & cold.
Have fun out there!
#18
Thread Starter
Vermonticus Outdoorsus
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 308
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From: Burlington, VT
Bikes: Specialized Rockhopper circa 1993
Thank-You all for the great advice and encouragement. I am looking forward to my commute through at least early December. I am really hoping to do some winter biking, but I am not so sure about the snow. I have a friend who bikes in the winter, but how do you deal with snow on the roads? What about when big snowbanks make the roads skinnier?
Bsyptak, I will have to look for those bar end foam grips. They sound great! Thanks for the tip.
Bsyptak, I will have to look for those bar end foam grips. They sound great! Thanks for the tip.
#19
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,521
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From: Montreal
Bikes: Peugeot Hybrid, Minelli Hybrid
I dont commute in the winter now, but when I did, I would take bus or car for a couple of days after a snowstorm. Then I would ride close to the edge of the ploughed area. I didnt find any problem riding through new snow if it started snowing while I was at work, and cars always gave me more room when passing, because they were scared that I would fall in front of them. My son commutes all winter and he has Nokian studded tires on his winter bike. Potholes get filled with ice in the winter which gives a smoother ride. The sound of people scraping ice off windshields and trying to start their cars with tired batteries is music to the ears.
#20
Year-round cyclist

Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,023
Likes: 3
From: Montréal (Québec)
Originally Posted by CommuterKat
What a fantabulous idea about wrapping the grips to prevent the pressure point on the heel of my hands!! I hadn't thought about that. ...
Originally Posted by CommuterKat
I actually am bikeless for the moment. My bike shop keeps "repairing" the gears on my bike, but it keeps doing the same thing. (Not shifting into the smallest gear in the front) ....
Regarding fenders. I'm part of the "every bike should have fenders" camp. If you want to commute late at fall and even through Winter – why not? –, full fenders and mudflaps are the way to go. The only drawbacks to full fenders, I think are:
- geekiness factor (I don't care);
- riding in mud, because it packs under the fenders.
If you only ride on asphalt, snow and even on gravel or sand roads, I would prefer permanently installed fenders because you get real coverage. You could even add a mudflap such as shown on Alex Wetmore's page for total protection of your feet and drivetrain.
#21
Commuting monkey
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 52
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From: Aberdeen, UK
Bikes: Pace (square section, eternally butted) MTB. Custom 26" wheel R531 tourer. R631 26" wheel commuter with Project 2 forks.
Originally Posted by CommuterKat
The light is a Trek LED that clips into a track sort of thingy. It makes a "click" when it clips in and there is a release button to get it off the mount, but any hard bump makes it fall off. Hope this helps!
Mudguards ("fenders") are a must IMHO unless you like wearing a diesel-scented skunk stripe and getting a ****** whenever it rains.
#22
Thread Starter
Vermonticus Outdoorsus
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 308
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From: Burlington, VT
Bikes: Specialized Rockhopper circa 1993
[/QUOTE]Mudguards ("fenders") are a must IMHO unless you like wearing a diesel-scented skunk stripe and getting a ****** whenever it rains.[/QUOTE]
Oh My God!!! This one had me laughing my butt off!
I think I will most definitely be getting fenders soon. Can't have any skunk stripes, or rain ******s on my way in.
I actually got my bike back today, and the bike shop says that I need all new shifting mechanisms, from the twist grips all the way down to the chain rings. I think I am going to just ride this bike into the ground and get a new one next spring. I think I am not going to be afraid of duct tape from now on when it comes to this bike though. Stickers, geekiness, and duct tape will be the name of the game from here on out.
Oh My God!!! This one had me laughing my butt off!
I think I will most definitely be getting fenders soon. Can't have any skunk stripes, or rain ******s on my way in.
I actually got my bike back today, and the bike shop says that I need all new shifting mechanisms, from the twist grips all the way down to the chain rings. I think I am going to just ride this bike into the ground and get a new one next spring. I think I am not going to be afraid of duct tape from now on when it comes to this bike though. Stickers, geekiness, and duct tape will be the name of the game from here on out.
#24
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 16,767
Likes: 85
Get full length fenders, not the trendy shortie MTB versions that are a poor excuse for them. On the front the fender should attach at the crown of the fork and have stays going down to eyes at the dropouts(assuming you have a fixed fork and not a suspension one). On the rear, the fender attachs to the the brake bridge, the chainstay bridge and eyelets at the dropout.
Full-length fenders on the front are designed to protect your shoes and chain/chainrings, and reduce the spray thrown *forwards* and then up into your face. On the rear, they reduce the rooster-tail effect that gives you the skunk look, and secondly interferes less with riders coming up behind you or you have just passed. You can fashion addition mudflaps from the plastic of large milk or juice jugs.
Bear in mind that in heavy rain, you and your bike are going to get wet all over and fenders won't help much. However, overall, you will be thankful for the reduced wear and maintenance costs on the drivetrain. Plus full fenders and mudflaps add to the geekiness and lower the risk of theft.
Just another thought on a new bike (whenever that may be). Front suspension forks that actually work and are durable cost a lot. Otherwise, quality and usefulness are dubious. They also reduce the ability to fit full-length fenders, although it is not impossible with a bit of ingenuity. I always recommend fixed forks for their zero maintenance cost and ultimately, comfort when specifying an urban commute bike.
Finally, be careful with your bike shop. The comment about an entire shifter/derailleur/chainring replacement sets off the alarm bells for me. Get a second opinion from another LBS if you can.
Full-length fenders on the front are designed to protect your shoes and chain/chainrings, and reduce the spray thrown *forwards* and then up into your face. On the rear, they reduce the rooster-tail effect that gives you the skunk look, and secondly interferes less with riders coming up behind you or you have just passed. You can fashion addition mudflaps from the plastic of large milk or juice jugs.
Bear in mind that in heavy rain, you and your bike are going to get wet all over and fenders won't help much. However, overall, you will be thankful for the reduced wear and maintenance costs on the drivetrain. Plus full fenders and mudflaps add to the geekiness and lower the risk of theft.
Just another thought on a new bike (whenever that may be). Front suspension forks that actually work and are durable cost a lot. Otherwise, quality and usefulness are dubious. They also reduce the ability to fit full-length fenders, although it is not impossible with a bit of ingenuity. I always recommend fixed forks for their zero maintenance cost and ultimately, comfort when specifying an urban commute bike.
Finally, be careful with your bike shop. The comment about an entire shifter/derailleur/chainring replacement sets off the alarm bells for me. Get a second opinion from another LBS if you can.




