I am building a tourer on the Nashbar frame (shown here):
https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...1_10000_200450

I would like to use cantilever brakes since I will be using 105 brifters which are incompatible with V-brakes.

This frame, while it has posts for mounting canti (or V) brakes, has no cable hangers.

I'm putting together an order with Niagara; and I'm having trouble identifying a suitable rear brake cable guide. Which one are you using? How is it attached? Where is the barrel adjuster? Here are some candidates:

https://www.niagaracycle.com/advanced...hanger&x=0&y=0

For the front brake cable guide I'm planning on using this:
https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=431338

For the cantilever brakes, they all look the same to me--Any recommendations? More candidates:
https://www.niagaracycle.com/index.php?cPath=93_211

Appreciate any help!

I think the Nashbar site gives recommendations on what is needed for the build. Check the frame specs and so on at their site. I could be wrong. Its happened before

I've got the same bike
I have Suntour XC Pro's on the bike right now. I'm rebuilding it with Porteur bars and gonna get a Paul Component front porteur rack.
I have this in the back:
https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=431337

The link for the front brake you posted will work.

Any one of those cantilever brakes should work. Depends on your budget

I was thinking of removing my Suntours and putting them on a mountain bike I'm about to get and get the Tektro CR720. They look a little more retro.



Good luck! I love the frame.

You could also use mini-v brakes.

I just finnished a build with the nashbar frame and canti's(pic is on the commuter pics thread pg.250).I purchased a clamp on style for the fork steertube and a seatpost clamp mounted cable top from the LBS but the seat tube extends so high that it makes for a big curve in the housing. I will be soon purchasing a longer stop made by surly that should make it more of a straight shot.

Lapher what was your total cost on that Nashbar build

frame-$67.49
brakes-$17.99
tubes&tires-$26.02
cranks&bb-$44
cable stops&seatpost clamps from LBS-$25

everything else I stole from other bikes.

Lapher how does it handle and are you satisfied with the ride and the bike over all

When I tried CR720's they rubbed on my rear panniers. I went back to the Tektro low profiles.

I tried Avid Mini Vee brakes on the cannondale, too, but the crossing cable and brake arm bore on the fender. If not for that I'd have left them on as they were much easier to set up and mosulate stopping

Ah, good . . . so it's ok to have the seat post clamp turned around with the bolt in the back even though the compressible slot is in the front?

and the cable housing loop is not too tortured?

Do you have a barrel adjuster hooked up somewhere? If so PLEASE identify which one and where it is on the cable! Candidates:
https://www.niagaracycle.com/advanced...juster&x=0&y=0

I can't tell if that little brass insert is threaded and those tiny pictures don't help . . .

The only cable adjusters that I'm familiar with require a threaded receptacle into which the threaded adjuster is screwed and the tension is adjusted by screwing the adjuster in or out, thereby changing the compression on the cable housing. I do not understand how those other ones work. Like this:

https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=413084

Thank you so much for your help!

I'll have to research--I gather that they are short-reach like cantis, right?

ditto - that's what I used for that frame. I had drop bars, bar end shifters, and tektro road brake levers. The mini-v brakes off ebay were under $30 for the set.

Looked at your picture--that's what I meant by "tortured curve" in the cable. Please tell us more about this "longer stop made by surly that should make it more of a straight shot". A link would be great!

When you buy a cantilever brake, does the cross-cable (straddle cable?) and any other hardware you need come with it?

You can use a thing called a "Travel Agent" from Problem solvers to use with brifters. I just did on a flat bar conversion. They work and looked fine I thought.

https://www.problemsolversbike.com/pd...avel_agent.pdf

https://surlybikes.com/parts/cable_hanger/

Put these on my cross bike and loving them so far, no need for hangers. Work fine with my rival shifters. No more finiky canti adjustment.

https://cgi.ebay.com/Tektro-RX5-Road-...item19bac70c14

I use tektro oryx brakes. Properly set up, they are extremely powerful and I couldn't be happier with them. They're cheap too. Keep in mind that low profile canti's (like oryx) are harder to set up initially...you have to make sure the pads are spaced close to the rims at rest for good power.

I prefer to use v-brake pads with them though, since they have more contact and are better quality. A lot of people like the kool stops.

I'm using this hangar in front:

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...s.php?id=21838

and this one in back:

https://surlybikes.com/parts/cable_hanger/

IMO, the drop on the hangar in front isn't long enough, and the cable does go through a rather tortured bend.

Clark, that's actually THE ONE I have on my Nashbar frame Got it at a local store here. Works great.

God, It's great to get up in the morning and turn on the computer and find all this talent waiting for me! Thanks, Guys!

Because it looiks too short to me also, I'm getting this one, suggested by another member. As far as I can tell, they screw into the fender mounting holes in the fork and the seatstay bridge**********? I'm wondering what holds them upright? Maybe just the cable tension . . .

https://www.tektro.com/02products/accessories.php

Go 2/3 of the way down the page and look for the RED "New"--tell me what you think . . .

I have a lingering doubt about this one--several people have suggested that I may have a problem with it not fitting between the jaws of my seat post binder clamp. We're all using the same frame, so the one that is working for you should work for me also--which one is it?? Here are some candidates:

https://www.niagaracycle.com/advanced...+clamp&x=0&y=0

If you are using a generic clamp that you cannot id, can anybody point me to a clamp that will positively work with the Surly rear brake hanger and the Nash frame?

The new Tektro front hanger looks promising, I'm guessing that the bolt and nuts hold it tight against the fender mounting hole in the center of the front fork. To my eye, the advantage of the rear hanger is not so clear--it looks to me like it will stop the cable in the rear at about the same place as the Surly hanger, which may be more adjustable in that you can rotate it forward or back.

I'm using this clamp with the Surly hanger (and the Nashbar Cross frame):

https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...1_10000_200463

Rear Luggage Rack-- My wish list

Silver rather than black. This is important because I will be attaching the Wald collapsable baskets from time to time and they scratch the #### out of the rack--aluminum color doesn't show scratches.

Spring loaded clamp on top so I don't have to carry bungees. I know they rattle, but the day-to-day usefulness of the rack is enhanced ten-fold. I mean, I leave home not planning on carrying anything on the rack, so I don't take bungees with me. I find a satchel with $1 million in $100 bills lying by the side of the road. How do I get it home? (this happens to me all the time)

Fits the Nash frame with the included hardware. I mention this because the laid back seat geometry on this frame suggests that the connecting rods to the seatstays at the front of the rack may be too short to reach with the rack level OR they reach OK but the stretch is so long that they soon develop a bend.

Should coexist space-wise with https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=403441 and this https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=25793 in the 50mm width

Price is not important--I want sleek good looks and quality. After all, I'm buying a Brooks flyer saddle. And I don't want $100 bills scattered all over the road because my rack failed . . .

Come on guys, You're doing so well . . .

and before anybody comes up with the "polishing a turd" bs, my response is "Yes, but it's MY turd"