New Brooks B17 Standard
#1
New Brooks B17 Standard


Just got it today from the Chinese version of eBay, called Taobao.
I was on my commute home when I got a call to come and pick it up. Got home, took the other one off, kept my rear light and reflector down low on my seatpost, and went for a ride to try and find some sno-seal.
Given the language difficulties I have here, I managed to convey what I wanted and they all seemed to understand, but nobody had any.
At first I found the swaying motion a little wierd, but am starting to like it.
It seems a tad higher than the standard Giant seat, but I was thinking of lifting it a tad anyway.
I did stop and slide it backward twice, and now find it comfortable.
Will see what happens as I put my km on it. I added at 4500km on this bike.
z
Last edited by azesty; 04-23-10 at 04:33 AM.
#3
Yeah, the roads here are pretty dirty, and we have had a bit of rain of late. I have been looking for some mudguards that will stop that muck but no luck so far.
The saddle I took off was pretty clean though, my arse keeps it that way
z
The saddle I took off was pretty clean though, my arse keeps it that way

z
#5
it looks like it is pointing down too much. Brooks seem to work better if you point it up a little, or keep it level. Since they are not as sticky as non leather seats, this helps you from slipping forward on declarations.
#7
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From: Binghamton, NY
Bikes: Workcycles FR8, 2016 Jamis Coda Comp, 2008 Surly Long Haul Trucker
I'm looking to buy one for my hardtail but haven't found any good deals recently. I bought a Brooks flyer pre-aged a little while ago for about $68 without shipping if memory serves me correctly.
#8
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Sherwood, OR
Bottom line: experiment with tilt as well as front-back adjustment.
I had to play with it quite a bit. I resisted pointing it up because every time I tried it I went too far up. Tilt it up farther than you think you need. If it's uncomfortable, tilt it back down in small increments until it is comfortable. Most likely, you will stop before it gets to the level position.
#9
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Columbus, OH
Bikes: '08 Surly Cross-Check, 2011 Redline Conquest Pro, 2012 Spesh FSR Comp EVO, 2015 Trek Domane 6.2 disc
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#10
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: baltimore
Bikes: Pake Track; Bianchi XL EV2 El Reparto Corse, Kona Jake the Snake
#11
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Chicagoland
Bikes: 1997 Schwinn Searcher GS, 2007 Dahon Curve D3
Azesty - Don't listen to these jokers. Real Commuters such as yourself have a hard time keeping the bike clean.
I have a question though: Does all the dirt seem to cut down the life of your chains or derailleurs? Seems like an internal geared hub and full chain case might be a good idea for the next bike.
I have a question though: Does all the dirt seem to cut down the life of your chains or derailleurs? Seems like an internal geared hub and full chain case might be a good idea for the next bike.
#12
Maybe everybody's $200 seat isn't fabricated level...

Kidding aside, seat angle depends on anatomy and rider position... for most men in most situations a slight downward angle is the most comfortable. Having said that i'm talking 5-7 degrees max up or down.
#13
aka Tom Reingold




Joined: Jan 2009
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From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Well aren't you just special!
Maybe everybody's $200 seat isn't fabricated level...
Kidding aside, seat angle depends on anatomy and rider position... for most men in most situations a slight downward angle is the most comfortable. Having said that i'm talking 5-7 degrees max up or down.
Maybe everybody's $200 seat isn't fabricated level...

Kidding aside, seat angle depends on anatomy and rider position... for most men in most situations a slight downward angle is the most comfortable. Having said that i'm talking 5-7 degrees max up or down.
Looking at a racer's bike can be instructive, because they do a lot of fine tweaking. Most of them have their seats level or tipped slightly up.
And I find that Brooks feel better when tipped up, especially if I'm slightly upright, such as with upright handlebars.
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Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#14
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Chicagoland
Bikes: Specialized Hardrock
Mine's level, and I was happy with it after adjusting it the first time. I hope it stays that way.
I looked at mine the other day, and realized it's tipped up slightly at the front, about like yours is. Guess I hadn't noticed the angle much after I got it dialed in.
Last edited by no motor?; 04-29-10 at 12:05 PM.
#15
I disagree! I find that a seat tipped down is usually a sign that the seat is raised too high.
Looking at a racer's bike can be instructive, because they do a lot of fine tweaking. Most of them have their seats level or tipped slightly up.
And I find that Brooks feel better when tipped up, especially if I'm slightly upright, such as with upright handlebars.
Looking at a racer's bike can be instructive, because they do a lot of fine tweaking. Most of them have their seats level or tipped slightly up.
And I find that Brooks feel better when tipped up, especially if I'm slightly upright, such as with upright handlebars.
I should something that is very obvious... and that is that not every saddle fits the same.
#16
aka Tom Reingold




Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 44,193
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From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
I feel all three bones on the saddle with what feels like equal pressure. If I tip my seat down, it puts too little weight on the pubic bone and too much on the handlebars. I fall forward.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#17
Thanks for all the advice about tilt. I generally ride with a bit of a down tilt, as I dont mind the pressure on my arms until I have been there for more than an hour or two. I will, however start experimenting with tilt. It might be worth trying all the way both ways, heading back to the middle. I think the seat stem has a fair number of locking slots on the adjustment.
Jeremyz, I have been riding here since July last year. I have a fairly brutal method, I just pour bottled WD40 on the chain. I do this at least every time the chain is well soaked with water and grit.
There are street sweepers here, in the hundreds, dressed in orange, using long brooms made of plants. It is a little incongrous at times. They keep it very clean of bits and pieces. Using standard tyres I have had only one puncture in over 4000k of riding. But these guys dont remove the grit the comes from everywhere. So far I have replaced the rear derailleur when I bent it in a crash. The rest is original. It doesnt change as smoothly as it did
I am planning on doing something about this when I get to 5000km
z
Jeremyz, I have been riding here since July last year. I have a fairly brutal method, I just pour bottled WD40 on the chain. I do this at least every time the chain is well soaked with water and grit.
There are street sweepers here, in the hundreds, dressed in orange, using long brooms made of plants. It is a little incongrous at times. They keep it very clean of bits and pieces. Using standard tyres I have had only one puncture in over 4000k of riding. But these guys dont remove the grit the comes from everywhere. So far I have replaced the rear derailleur when I bent it in a crash. The rest is original. It doesnt change as smoothly as it did

I am planning on doing something about this when I get to 5000km

z
#18
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 95
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From: columbus, oh
Bikes: trek 4300, optimized for utility and commuting
Thanks for all the advice about tilt. I generally ride with a bit of a down tilt, as I dont mind the pressure on my arms until I have been there for more than an hour or two. I will, however start experimenting with tilt. It might be worth trying all the way both ways, heading back to the middle. I think the seat stem has a fair number of locking slots on the adjustment.
Jeremyz, I have been riding here since July last year. I have a fairly brutal method, I just pour bottled WD40 on the chain. I do this at least every time the chain is well soaked with water and grit.
There are street sweepers here, in the hundreds, dressed in orange, using long brooms made of plants. It is a little incongrous at times. They keep it very clean of bits and pieces. Using standard tyres I have had only one puncture in over 4000k of riding. But these guys dont remove the grit the comes from everywhere. So far I have replaced the rear derailleur when I bent it in a crash. The rest is original. It doesnt change as smoothly as it did
I am planning on doing something about this when I get to 5000km
z
Jeremyz, I have been riding here since July last year. I have a fairly brutal method, I just pour bottled WD40 on the chain. I do this at least every time the chain is well soaked with water and grit.
There are street sweepers here, in the hundreds, dressed in orange, using long brooms made of plants. It is a little incongrous at times. They keep it very clean of bits and pieces. Using standard tyres I have had only one puncture in over 4000k of riding. But these guys dont remove the grit the comes from everywhere. So far I have replaced the rear derailleur when I bent it in a crash. The rest is original. It doesnt change as smoothly as it did

I am planning on doing something about this when I get to 5000km

z
#20
#22
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 11,373
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From: Columbus, OH
Bikes: '08 Surly Cross-Check, 2011 Redline Conquest Pro, 2012 Spesh FSR Comp EVO, 2015 Trek Domane 6.2 disc
I did have it just above level to start. I've been tilting it back as I put more miles on it, up to about 7000 miles when things seemd to even out with it at the position it's in. I think I have around 10,000 miles on that saddle now.
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"I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
- Mandi M.
"I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
- Mandi M.
#23
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 11,373
Likes: 8
From: Columbus, OH
Bikes: '08 Surly Cross-Check, 2011 Redline Conquest Pro, 2012 Spesh FSR Comp EVO, 2015 Trek Domane 6.2 disc
Most of the randonneurs I know have their Brooks saddles angled slightly up, within the tolerance you mention. But with the position we tend to have (more upright with bars closer to level with the saddle) and spending long hours (20+) in the saddle for a single ride, it's a more comfortable position. Not many of us are leaned far forward in a racing tuck for any significant amount of time.
__________________
"I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
- Mandi M.
"I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
- Mandi M.
#24
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,260
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From: Pacific, WA
Bikes: Custom 531ST touring, Bilenky Viewpoint, Bianchi Milano, vintage Condor racer
A slight upward tilt on a Brooks is the same as level on an upholstered saddle. Your bones don't sink into a Brooks like they do a padded plastic saddle.
#25




