Slightly Overwhelmed Newbie
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Slightly Overwhelmed Newbie
Hiya. I made the decision a few weeks ago that I want to start commuting to work by bike. Combination of factors went into this including gas prices, wanting to get more excercise, live a little greener and to have a greater range of transportation options as my sister and I are roommates and have to share one car. I haven't made a purchase yet, mainly because I'm somewhat overwhelmed with information. I'm the type of person who tends to over-research and then get paralized with indecision. There aren't many bike commuters where I work, so I haven't been able to pick anyone's brain who has any real experience.
I'm also limited in terms of budget since I haven't had time to save up for this and my sister's new position at her job occured suddenly. I have been searching Craigslist, but most of what seems to show up in my area are either kids bikes, mountain bikes, out of my price range ($350+) or fixer uppers that are beyond my ability to fix. So it looks like I'm going to be limited to department store entry level bikes for now. I know that bikes are very much you get what you pay for, but I figure I can get something cheeper now and save up for something nicer in six or seven months just with the gas savings.
I live less than a mile from work, but due to being on opposite sides of an interstate it looks like the safest route is about 15 miles (nearest overpass that doesn't have on or off ramps). The area where I live is fairly flat, with the largest change in elevation being the overpass itself. Ideally I'd like to find something that either has or can have a rear rack and fenders attached but isn't a cruiser type bike. If it makes any difference, I'm in pretty good shape and would have to say that I value speed over comfort.
I'd really appreciate any reccomendations that people can provide.
Thanks!
I'm also limited in terms of budget since I haven't had time to save up for this and my sister's new position at her job occured suddenly. I have been searching Craigslist, but most of what seems to show up in my area are either kids bikes, mountain bikes, out of my price range ($350+) or fixer uppers that are beyond my ability to fix. So it looks like I'm going to be limited to department store entry level bikes for now. I know that bikes are very much you get what you pay for, but I figure I can get something cheeper now and save up for something nicer in six or seven months just with the gas savings.
I live less than a mile from work, but due to being on opposite sides of an interstate it looks like the safest route is about 15 miles (nearest overpass that doesn't have on or off ramps). The area where I live is fairly flat, with the largest change in elevation being the overpass itself. Ideally I'd like to find something that either has or can have a rear rack and fenders attached but isn't a cruiser type bike. If it makes any difference, I'm in pretty good shape and would have to say that I value speed over comfort.
I'd really appreciate any reccomendations that people can provide.
Thanks!
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There are good options in your price range for what you want to do.
I strongly advise against a "department store bike," also known as a "bike shaped object" (BSO). You need a bike that was assembled by someone with knowhow, and you will not find that at Walmart or Target. Probably not even at your local sporting goods store. Go visit a local bike shop and let them know what you're looking for. There are definitely decent bikes that can be had in your budget.
I started commuting on a 10 year old hardtail mountain bike that was 350 when it was new. It was a reputable brand and has been handed down to a friend who still uses it.
You may want to leave room in your budget for helmet and accessories depending on what you want to do and when you ride your bike (at night, or in the winter, for example.)
I strongly advise against a "department store bike," also known as a "bike shaped object" (BSO). You need a bike that was assembled by someone with knowhow, and you will not find that at Walmart or Target. Probably not even at your local sporting goods store. Go visit a local bike shop and let them know what you're looking for. There are definitely decent bikes that can be had in your budget.
I started commuting on a 10 year old hardtail mountain bike that was 350 when it was new. It was a reputable brand and has been handed down to a friend who still uses it.
You may want to leave room in your budget for helmet and accessories depending on what you want to do and when you ride your bike (at night, or in the winter, for example.)
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You can do any commute on an old well-built mountain bike, which is why I love craigslist. You can keep it as is and ride the hell out of it, or put it on slick tires for the road and still ride it like hell. You do not need to buy a department store bike. An old mountain bike may eventually need some parts replaced, but I bet you could buy everything you need to commute and have an old mtb in commuting shape for the amount of money you want to spend. And where I live, $350 can get a new Rockhopper or a very nice Diamondback at the local bike shops. If you're keen on a new road bike, there are some new bikes that are in your price range, but they won't be very great; I'd say the bang-for-your-buck price starts around $400 (Just a guess, I'm no roadie), unless you're hunting on craigslist. Since you live in flat terrain, I suggest single speed or fixed gear bicycles if you are keen on a new road bike.
The idea of buying a low quality bike now and getting rid of it when you can buy a better one doesn't sit well with me, maybe because I'm cheap. Why not get a decent bicycle now and upgrade it later? You'll love being a bike geek!
The idea of buying a low quality bike now and getting rid of it when you can buy a better one doesn't sit well with me, maybe because I'm cheap. Why not get a decent bicycle now and upgrade it later? You'll love being a bike geek!
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I agree with aggierads. Department store bikes are flat out unsafe for ridding in traffic or for dependable transportation. I dont know how they get away with calling some of those things "bikes."
Anyways, if your budget is truly limited just tell the bike shop owner and see if he can do anything. Remember too that when you buy from a local shop then you are also purchasing a certain amount of free labor that will usually include free fitting, adjustments, and sometimes cleanings! Even in the very short term of things a department store bike can often cost a lot more than the price tag because of constant repairs right out of the box! `15 miles is a good size commute, even for a relative veteran. I know you said your in good shape but you are also going to need decent wheels to not destroy yourself everyday doing that ride.
I would also conisder shopping online in your case. Heres a quick road bike that can handle a rack for 299 https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...ington1_IX.htm
Also, ask your local bike shop if they sell used bikes or know of a used bike retailer in the area. Does you city have a "bicycle kitchen" or other community bicycle shop? I volunteered at one in my city and they would put together reliable machines from donated bicycles and sell them real cheap.
You got a lot of options so don't run to walmart just yet!
Anyways, if your budget is truly limited just tell the bike shop owner and see if he can do anything. Remember too that when you buy from a local shop then you are also purchasing a certain amount of free labor that will usually include free fitting, adjustments, and sometimes cleanings! Even in the very short term of things a department store bike can often cost a lot more than the price tag because of constant repairs right out of the box! `15 miles is a good size commute, even for a relative veteran. I know you said your in good shape but you are also going to need decent wheels to not destroy yourself everyday doing that ride.
I would also conisder shopping online in your case. Heres a quick road bike that can handle a rack for 299 https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...ington1_IX.htm
Also, ask your local bike shop if they sell used bikes or know of a used bike retailer in the area. Does you city have a "bicycle kitchen" or other community bicycle shop? I volunteered at one in my city and they would put together reliable machines from donated bicycles and sell them real cheap.
You got a lot of options so don't run to walmart just yet!

#5
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I started four years ago with a $380 bike shop hybrid, a helmet and a backpack. I added accessories (lights, rack, fenders) as I went along. Your plan is quite doable based on my experience.
Caution is advised when cycling through interchanges with surface streets, but there's no reason to go seven miles out of your way--unless you like the ride. (I regularly extend my commute from 4.5 miles to 16.5, just because.) I have to cross an expressway and a river between home and work. Both are snarly traffic chokepoints. Both can be traversed safely, and I do so twice a day. Granted, they made me very nervous when I started out. I still respect them, but I no longer fear them.
Check with your library to see if they have the book, The Art of Cycling: A Guide to Bicycling in 21st-Century America by Robert Hurst (originally published as The Art of Urban Cycling: Lessons From the Streets). It's chock-full of tips and techniques to keep you safe when cycling with traffic.
PS: Don't sweat your first bike purchase, especially not since you're already planning to replace it in a few months. The purpose of your first bike is to teach you what you want and need in your second bike. Therefore, there can never be a "right" first bike. Just find something you can afford, is reasonably comfortable and isn't likely to fall apart this year. Then let it teach you.
Caution is advised when cycling through interchanges with surface streets, but there's no reason to go seven miles out of your way--unless you like the ride. (I regularly extend my commute from 4.5 miles to 16.5, just because.) I have to cross an expressway and a river between home and work. Both are snarly traffic chokepoints. Both can be traversed safely, and I do so twice a day. Granted, they made me very nervous when I started out. I still respect them, but I no longer fear them.
Check with your library to see if they have the book, The Art of Cycling: A Guide to Bicycling in 21st-Century America by Robert Hurst (originally published as The Art of Urban Cycling: Lessons From the Streets). It's chock-full of tips and techniques to keep you safe when cycling with traffic.
PS: Don't sweat your first bike purchase, especially not since you're already planning to replace it in a few months. The purpose of your first bike is to teach you what you want and need in your second bike. Therefore, there can never be a "right" first bike. Just find something you can afford, is reasonably comfortable and isn't likely to fall apart this year. Then let it teach you.
Last edited by tsl; 05-01-10 at 06:52 PM. Reason: Added PS
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I live less than a mile from work, but due to being on opposite sides of an interstate it looks like the safest route is about 15 miles (nearest overpass that doesn't have on or off ramps). The area where I live is fairly flat, with the largest change in elevation being the overpass itself.
As for what bike you use, if you're constrained by money at the moment I recommend just borrowing one. Did you have a bike when you were a teenager? Is it still in your parents' garage? Get them to ship it to you.
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15 miles for a 1 mile ride? Maybe I am missing something but you do realize it is perfectly legal to ride on non access controlled roads. In fact it is illegal in most placed for adults to ride on "side walks".
Find us a map of the close bridges you are concerned with crossing that have hwy access ramps. Google will give you a ling in the upper right corner of the map. Let us take a look at them to see if they look unusually dangerous for some reason.
Find us a map of the close bridges you are concerned with crossing that have hwy access ramps. Google will give you a ling in the upper right corner of the map. Let us take a look at them to see if they look unusually dangerous for some reason.
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Looking around at the Richmond CL. MAN you have some good stuff in your area!
How tall are you? Male?
SMOKING DEAL! https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/1718155977.html Looks like a 58cm 3.0 Crit frame R500 or R600 around 1990 good for somebody around 5'8" 5'10" Thats a Entry level Critirium race bike. If it is a R600 That could easlily be flipped for $300 if it is in as good of shape as lit looks.
Even better https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/1716410336.html Thats $250 in good shape and
If you like more upright. This is a Good bike ready to comute, very Fair starting price, Offer them around $275 see if they will meet you at $300 https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/1714231170.html Honestly thats a pretty new bike. the price is decent if they hold to it.
Fair if it has been maintained.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/1712943572.html
Fair price on a good vintage Fuji.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/1712523380.html Get it tuned up.
Price a bit hi but DelRays ride great. Had one just like it. Looks like a 84. https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/1711640433.html
Bike GOD (RIP Sheldon) website if you want to learn. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/
How tall are you? Male?
SMOKING DEAL! https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/1718155977.html Looks like a 58cm 3.0 Crit frame R500 or R600 around 1990 good for somebody around 5'8" 5'10" Thats a Entry level Critirium race bike. If it is a R600 That could easlily be flipped for $300 if it is in as good of shape as lit looks.
Even better https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/1716410336.html Thats $250 in good shape and
If you like more upright. This is a Good bike ready to comute, very Fair starting price, Offer them around $275 see if they will meet you at $300 https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/1714231170.html Honestly thats a pretty new bike. the price is decent if they hold to it.
Fair if it has been maintained.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/1712943572.html
Fair price on a good vintage Fuji.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/1712523380.html Get it tuned up.
Price a bit hi but DelRays ride great. Had one just like it. Looks like a 84. https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/1711640433.html
Bike GOD (RIP Sheldon) website if you want to learn. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/
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Another vote in with the others. At the very least, buy a used bike from a bike shop. At least they will have gone over it and adjusted everything properly.
For a one mile commute, any bike will be fast enough. You won't even have a chance to work up a sweat.
It sounds like you're kind of out in the sticks, so a road bike is probably a good choice. You will need to put aside $30-50 for a good lock (U-lock + cable) and a helmet. ($40 min.)
For a one mile commute, any bike will be fast enough. You won't even have a chance to work up a sweat.
It sounds like you're kind of out in the sticks, so a road bike is probably a good choice. You will need to put aside $30-50 for a good lock (U-lock + cable) and a helmet. ($40 min.)
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Well, that sucks. Are you sure that is the only route? Google Maps, with satellite view, can be a great way to scope out alternate routes. Also, remember that any underpass or overpass should do; you don't need a sidewalk. (You know that sidewalks are death traps for bikes, right?)
As for what bike you use, if you're constrained by money at the moment I recommend just borrowing one. Did you have a bike when you were a teenager? Is it still in your parents' garage? Get them to ship it to you.
As for what bike you use, if you're constrained by money at the moment I recommend just borrowing one. Did you have a bike when you were a teenager? Is it still in your parents' garage? Get them to ship it to you.
https://norfolk.craigslist.org/
There were some new postings today, and some look like possibilities! I'll also be visiting the local bike shops in the next week, so I'll see if maybe there's some last years stock or something that they might be wanting to move.
#12
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Yep, can't go wrong with a decent vintage bike that suits your needs gotten at fair price or better. Later, if you determine you need something a little different, you can upgrade/modify it, or get all your money out and maybe more by re-selling it. Take a look at the C&V (classic & vintage) forum here https://www.bikeforums.net/forumdispl...lassic-Vintage ; lots of know how to be gleaned about choosing and caring for a vintage bike.
Along with mountain bikes, you should consider touring and "sport-touring" road bikes; they are emminently suited for on-road commuting: fast & light, comfortable, and typically have attachment points for fenders and racks (as compared to more single purpose road quasi-racing bikes). The more serious touring models will have cantilever brakes, a real plus for a laden bike and/or in wet conditions.
Along with mountain bikes, you should consider touring and "sport-touring" road bikes; they are emminently suited for on-road commuting: fast & light, comfortable, and typically have attachment points for fenders and racks (as compared to more single purpose road quasi-racing bikes). The more serious touring models will have cantilever brakes, a real plus for a laden bike and/or in wet conditions.
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15 miles for a 1 mile ride? Maybe I am missing something but you do realize it is perfectly legal to ride on non access controlled roads. In fact it is illegal in most placed for adults to ride on "side walks".
Find us a map of the close bridges you are concerned with crossing that have hwy access ramps. Google will give you a ling in the upper right corner of the map. Let us take a look at them to see if they look unusually dangerous for some reason.
Find us a map of the close bridges you are concerned with crossing that have hwy access ramps. Google will give you a ling in the upper right corner of the map. Let us take a look at them to see if they look unusually dangerous for some reason.
This is the overpass that has me the most concerned:
https://www.google.com/maps?f=q&sourc...h&z=16&layer=t
My driving route takes me on Greenbrier Parkway over I-64. But like I said, I don't mind an hour commute. I'm getting an hour in at the gym every day, so if I can combine exercise and commute in one, I figure I save a little time somewhere.

How tall are you? Male?
Last edited by Fechten; 05-01-10 at 11:05 PM.
#14
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I started four years ago with a $380 bike shop hybrid, a helmet and a backpack. I added accessories (lights, rack, fenders) as I went along. Your plan is quite doable based on my experience.
Caution is advised when cycling through interchanges with surface streets, but there's no reason to go seven miles out of your way--unless you like the ride. (I regularly extend my commute from 4.5 miles to 16.5, just because.) I have to cross an expressway and a river between home and work. Both are snarly traffic chokepoints. Both can be traversed safely, and I do so twice a day. Granted, they made me very nervous when I started out. I still respect them, but I no longer fear them.
Check with your library to see if they have the book, The Art of Cycling: A Guide to Bicycling in 21st-Century America by Robert Hurst (originally published as The Art of Urban Cycling: Lessons From the Streets). It's chock-full of tips and techniques to keep you safe when cycling with traffic.
PS: Don't sweat your first bike purchase, especially not since you're already planning to replace it in a few months. The purpose of your first bike is to teach you what you want and need in your second bike. Therefore, there can never be a "right" first bike. Just find something you can afford, is reasonably comfortable and isn't likely to fall apart this year. Then let it teach you.
Caution is advised when cycling through interchanges with surface streets, but there's no reason to go seven miles out of your way--unless you like the ride. (I regularly extend my commute from 4.5 miles to 16.5, just because.) I have to cross an expressway and a river between home and work. Both are snarly traffic chokepoints. Both can be traversed safely, and I do so twice a day. Granted, they made me very nervous when I started out. I still respect them, but I no longer fear them.
Check with your library to see if they have the book, The Art of Cycling: A Guide to Bicycling in 21st-Century America by Robert Hurst (originally published as The Art of Urban Cycling: Lessons From the Streets). It's chock-full of tips and techniques to keep you safe when cycling with traffic.
PS: Don't sweat your first bike purchase, especially not since you're already planning to replace it in a few months. The purpose of your first bike is to teach you what you want and need in your second bike. Therefore, there can never be a "right" first bike. Just find something you can afford, is reasonably comfortable and isn't likely to fall apart this year. Then let it teach you.
I don't know your route and I would guess few posting here would. Sometimes a route is personal, something you feel comfortable with, something you enjoy riding.
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Good advice. I would add: do you the route you feel safest and most comfortable with -- even if 15 miles. But read the book, get good experience under you belt and try to understand how you might navigate a shorter route. Perhaps try it early in the morning, or some other low-traffic time, just to see what it feels like.
I don't know your route and I would guess few posting here would. Sometimes a route is personal, something you feel comfortable with, something you enjoy riding.
I don't know your route and I would guess few posting here would. Sometimes a route is personal, something you feel comfortable with, something you enjoy riding.
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Since you live less than a mile from work and you said you're short on funds, how about just walking to work then? One mile is a 15-30 min walk.
#17
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This is the overpass that has me the most concerned:
https://www.google.com/maps?f=q&sourc...h&z=16&layer=t
My driving route takes me on Greenbrier Parkway over I-64.
https://www.google.com/maps?f=q&sourc...h&z=16&layer=t
My driving route takes me on Greenbrier Parkway over I-64.
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Sounds like she's looking for an excuse to bike; GREAT! Why don't you take the 15 mile route that you feel comfortable with, and when you're running late, go over the interstate?
It doesn't look like you're going on the expressway, just crossing over the bridge that spans it. Just be alert when you do and look for the safest route, like akohekohe suggested.
Did you decide what to do with regards to the bike yet?
It doesn't look like you're going on the expressway, just crossing over the bridge that spans it. Just be alert when you do and look for the safest route, like akohekohe suggested.
Did you decide what to do with regards to the bike yet?
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15 miles (is this x2) is a fair way so you need an efficient, practical bike, the basic all-rounder.
Some of the sportier hybrids or flat-bar road bikes are good.
If road style drop-bars dont scare you off, there are some viable commuter road bikes.
A few pointers:
1. Avoid any suspension, you really dont need it and it adds weight and complication.
2. Have an idea of the largest tyre width you will use. On normal road, this is probably 32mm but in winter or on tracks and trails, it could be wider. Road-bike style commuters do it on 25 or 28mm with no problems. On MTB wheels, 1.5" is a good width for the road. Many bikes have limits to the widest tyre they can take.
3. Make sure the bike has threaded eyelets to accept luggage rack and fenders.
4. Pick a bike shop that can help you get the correct size in a suitable style.
Some of the sportier hybrids or flat-bar road bikes are good.
If road style drop-bars dont scare you off, there are some viable commuter road bikes.
A few pointers:
1. Avoid any suspension, you really dont need it and it adds weight and complication.
2. Have an idea of the largest tyre width you will use. On normal road, this is probably 32mm but in winter or on tracks and trails, it could be wider. Road-bike style commuters do it on 25 or 28mm with no problems. On MTB wheels, 1.5" is a good width for the road. Many bikes have limits to the widest tyre they can take.
3. Make sure the bike has threaded eyelets to accept luggage rack and fenders.
4. Pick a bike shop that can help you get the correct size in a suitable style.
#20
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Well I can certainly understand why you feel intimidated by this intersection. I'm glad you posted it though because very often the devil is in the details. I have a similar intersection I occasionally cross (although not on my commute). At first I simply stayed to the right side of the through lane letting the cars turning onto the highway off ramp pass me on the right and held that position across until I cleared all the on and off ramps. I did this safely enough many times but it was always a bit unnerving so I finally asked someone who has to commute the intersection regularly what they did and they told me they got over onto the left shoulder before the road gets to the first off ramp and then stayed on the left shoulder all the way across the bridge, getting back over to the right side after the last off ramp. I was skeptical but it really works quite well. This avoids all the conflicts at the on and off ramps. It may mean that you will have to stop and wait for a break in traffic to get over to the left shoulder and back but it looks like you've got some traffic signals that should provide the gaps at each end of the bridge so I don't think that should be a problem for you. If you are wondering if this is legal, fortunately Virginia law has a provision that allows you to ride on the left shoulder of a one-way street and since the Greenbrier Parkway is a divided highway at the I64 bridge the Parkway is technically two one way road ways (one in each direction) at that point so riding on the left shoulder there is perfectly legal. It looks to me from the satellite image that the left shoulder is wide enough for a bicycle but obviously I can't tell for sure. You can still legally ride on the left side even if you are into the lane a bit and it is probably still a better strategy than staying on the right but it should be more comfortable to just have the shoulder to yourself. I think you will find this is very doable. Let us know if you give this a try.

#21
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Sounds like she's looking for an excuse to bike; GREAT! Why don't you take the 15 mile route that you feel comfortable with, and when you're running late, go over the interstate?
It doesn't look like you're going on the expressway, just crossing over the bridge that spans it. Just be alert when you do and look for the safest route, like akohekohe suggested.
Did you decide what to do with regards to the bike yet?
It doesn't look like you're going on the expressway, just crossing over the bridge that spans it. Just be alert when you do and look for the safest route, like akohekohe suggested.
Did you decide what to do with regards to the bike yet?
15 miles (is this x2) is a fair way so you need an efficient, practical bike, the basic all-rounder.
Some of the sportier hybrids or flat-bar road bikes are good.
If road style drop-bars dont scare you off, there are some viable commuter road bikes.
A few pointers:
1. Avoid any suspension, you really dont need it and it adds weight and complication.
2. Have an idea of the largest tyre width you will use. On normal road, this is probably 32mm but in winter or on tracks and trails, it could be wider. Road-bike style commuters do it on 25 or 28mm with no problems. On MTB wheels, 1.5" is a good width for the road. Many bikes have limits to the widest tyre they can take.
3. Make sure the bike has threaded eyelets to accept luggage rack and fenders.
4. Pick a bike shop that can help you get the correct size in a suitable style.
Some of the sportier hybrids or flat-bar road bikes are good.
If road style drop-bars dont scare you off, there are some viable commuter road bikes.
A few pointers:
1. Avoid any suspension, you really dont need it and it adds weight and complication.
2. Have an idea of the largest tyre width you will use. On normal road, this is probably 32mm but in winter or on tracks and trails, it could be wider. Road-bike style commuters do it on 25 or 28mm with no problems. On MTB wheels, 1.5" is a good width for the road. Many bikes have limits to the widest tyre they can take.
3. Make sure the bike has threaded eyelets to accept luggage rack and fenders.
4. Pick a bike shop that can help you get the correct size in a suitable style.
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Full suspension bikes are typically for REALLY rough offroad. Like mountain biking in the mountains. Front suspension is getting more popular on bike path bikes, but I think that's kind of a waste; they're usually pretty smooth.
Being a woman, you have one less thing to worry about with drop bars.; no frank 'n beans in the way down there. The only thing to consider is weight on your wrists and the kink in your neck from looking up. Can you cope with that for more efficiency? One other thing to think about is that the more weight is on your wrists, the less is on your butt & back. It's always a delicate balance. A good mix might be drop bars, but just not too low or far forward with relation to the seat. If you buy drop bars & decide you made a mistake, you can always go Mexican-style and turn them upside down for a nice upright ride!
Being a woman, you have one less thing to worry about with drop bars.; no frank 'n beans in the way down there. The only thing to consider is weight on your wrists and the kink in your neck from looking up. Can you cope with that for more efficiency? One other thing to think about is that the more weight is on your wrists, the less is on your butt & back. It's always a delicate balance. A good mix might be drop bars, but just not too low or far forward with relation to the seat. If you buy drop bars & decide you made a mistake, you can always go Mexican-style and turn them upside down for a nice upright ride!

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Totally true. I know that the diamond design of the traditional "men's" bike is for strength, but it always seemed a little sinister to put the boys so close to immenient peril.
I'd certainly be willing to try the drop-bars. When I used to have my bike I remember that the worst part was always that my lower back wound up pretty stiff at the end of a ride. Now, that may very well have been because I used to be in a lot worse shape than I am now, but I am sitting on my butt all day at work so avoiding another opportunity to put more pressure on my back might be a good thing!
I'd certainly be willing to try the drop-bars. When I used to have my bike I remember that the worst part was always that my lower back wound up pretty stiff at the end of a ride. Now, that may very well have been because I used to be in a lot worse shape than I am now, but I am sitting on my butt all day at work so avoiding another opportunity to put more pressure on my back might be a good thing!
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https://norfolk.craigslist.org/bik/1719746498.html
If it doesn't fit the racks and bags are worth the price and resell the bike again.
If it doesn't fit the racks and bags are worth the price and resell the bike again.
Last edited by dedhed; 05-02-10 at 08:07 AM.
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https://norfolk.craigslist.org/bik/1719746498.html
If it doesn't fit the racks and bags are worth the price and resell the bike again.
If it doesn't fit the racks and bags are worth the price and resell the bike again.
