How do you lock you commuter bike?
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 14
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How do you lock your commuter bike?
I have been commuting a couple time a week on my bike to a park and ride. Last week I saw that my new kriptonite lock had a bunch of scratches on it and my bike frame (looked like someone was banging on it with a hammer). I have added a second 1" thick cable lock to detour thief's. How do you lock up your bike? What lock do you use?
P.S. commuting on my bike has been the best choice I have made in a long time
P.S. commuting on my bike has been the best choice I have made in a long time
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 668
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From: Scottsdale, Arizona
Bikes: [IMG]https://i531.photobucket.com/albums/dd359/89ScottG/TourdeScottsdalePic.jpg[/IMG]
Please access this link to the legend. You have the right lock to start with, just learn the best way to use it.
Sheldon Brown Lock Strategy
Scott
Sheldon Brown Lock Strategy
Scott
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 223
Likes: 1
From: Sioux Falls
Bikes: Bianchi Road bike, Nashbar Ultegra triple cyclocross, Raleigh full XT hybrid, lugged steel Schwinn, Full rigid Diamondback MTB
The right lock for your commute will vary a lot by area. Where I'm at most commuters get by just fine with just a cable lock (and don't bother to secure lights and QR wheels.) In a major metro area they would likely be stolen before the ride home at the end of the day.
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 794
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From: Chicagoland
Bikes: 1997 Schwinn Searcher GS, 2007 Dahon Curve D3
Yeah, it depends where you are. (let us know) But if someone was trying to hammer, pry, & steal your bike despite the U-lock, that is a sure sign that you need to take locking seriously and forget about your paint job.
I use a bit different logic than the Sheldon Brown site. Although his is sound, it may not occur to a thief that he can't get the rear wheel out of the triangle when it alone is locked.
I use a mid-size U-lock through the frame & front wheel. The frame to secure the frame, and the front wheel because it is the most easily removed. (no chain to mess around with; just need a 15mm wrench) Then, a beefy cable through the rear wheel and put onto the U-lock. One thing Sheldon overlooked is that one doesn't need to defeat the cable; he only needs to defeat the U-lock and the cable comes right off. The cable is just to deter crimes of opportunity. You have to make a judgment call as to whether your local thieves are dedicated enough to steal a rear wheel with whatever type of nut secures them. (There is the chain to deal with too.)
I'm the only one at my rack who bothers to secure his rear wheel with a cable. Lots of folks don't even bother to secure the front wheel, they just put their cheap cable lock through the frame. This is kind of funny to me, because on most of those bikes, the theft of a wheel would "total" the bike. Who's going to pay $100+ for a replacement wheel on a beat-up $200 bike? Those people would be almost as screwed as if the whole bike were stolen. At best, they'd have to search for a compatible used wheel.
My criminal psychoanalysis for my area is that a thief would see the U-lock on my frame & front wheel and move onto another bike with a cheap cable lock through the frame. A little patience and a side cutter and he'd have a bike.
For you, I recommend a U-lock and either a cable or hardened chain. Replace all quick-release levers with proper nuts & bolts. Maybe even tamper-resistant Torx.
I use a bit different logic than the Sheldon Brown site. Although his is sound, it may not occur to a thief that he can't get the rear wheel out of the triangle when it alone is locked.
I use a mid-size U-lock through the frame & front wheel. The frame to secure the frame, and the front wheel because it is the most easily removed. (no chain to mess around with; just need a 15mm wrench) Then, a beefy cable through the rear wheel and put onto the U-lock. One thing Sheldon overlooked is that one doesn't need to defeat the cable; he only needs to defeat the U-lock and the cable comes right off. The cable is just to deter crimes of opportunity. You have to make a judgment call as to whether your local thieves are dedicated enough to steal a rear wheel with whatever type of nut secures them. (There is the chain to deal with too.)
I'm the only one at my rack who bothers to secure his rear wheel with a cable. Lots of folks don't even bother to secure the front wheel, they just put their cheap cable lock through the frame. This is kind of funny to me, because on most of those bikes, the theft of a wheel would "total" the bike. Who's going to pay $100+ for a replacement wheel on a beat-up $200 bike? Those people would be almost as screwed as if the whole bike were stolen. At best, they'd have to search for a compatible used wheel.
My criminal psychoanalysis for my area is that a thief would see the U-lock on my frame & front wheel and move onto another bike with a cheap cable lock through the frame. A little patience and a side cutter and he'd have a bike.
For you, I recommend a U-lock and either a cable or hardened chain. Replace all quick-release levers with proper nuts & bolts. Maybe even tamper-resistant Torx.
#6
xtrajack
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,058
Likes: 0
From: Maine
Bikes: Kona fire mountain/xtracycle,Univega landrover fs,Nishiki custom sport Ross professional super gran tour Schwinn Mesa (future Xtracycle donor bike)
Usually I don't . However, if necessary, I can lock my bike as secure as anyone, more so than most. U-lock, cable, and heavy chain. I bought them to use away from the local area.
Around here, it isn't generally necessary to lock up. At work, my bike is under video surveillance, they also have a zero tolerance policy regarding personal property. An assistant supervisor was fired for stealing a pack of cigarettes from one of my co-workers.
At home, my bike lives on the porch, at the end of a 125 foot private driveway, with four dogs on the other side of the door.
Around here, it isn't generally necessary to lock up. At work, my bike is under video surveillance, they also have a zero tolerance policy regarding personal property. An assistant supervisor was fired for stealing a pack of cigarettes from one of my co-workers.
At home, my bike lives on the porch, at the end of a 125 foot private driveway, with four dogs on the other side of the door.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 214
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From: Burnaby BC, Canada
Bikes: Velosport Appalache 15
This is a tough question. A dedicated thief will take your bike. Nothing you do will stop them, you can only make it harder. My last bike was stolen despite being locked like Sheldon Brown suggests with both a Kryptonite U-lock and a separate cable lock. Mine was the most secure on the rack, but given enough time, motivation and the right tools, they can get your bike. I've changed my commuting strategy to use an old beater bike that is mechanically sound but not pretty. This bike still gets a Kryptonite U-lock and a beefy cable lock as it's just a pain to replace a bike.
If you own a Kryptonite lock, be aware that the anti-theft policy is an optional insurance policy that is not provided with the lock. You must register the lock within 15 days of purchase and then purchase the insurance otherwise all they'll do is replace the lock if the thief is considerate enough to leave you a piece.
If you own a Kryptonite lock, be aware that the anti-theft policy is an optional insurance policy that is not provided with the lock. You must register the lock within 15 days of purchase and then purchase the insurance otherwise all they'll do is replace the lock if the thief is considerate enough to leave you a piece.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,840
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From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: Bianchi San Remo - set up as a utility bike, Peter Mooney Road bike, Peter Mooney commute bike,Dahon Folder,Schwinn Paramount Tandem
I have a relatively secure garage where I park my bike at work. I lock it with a single U lock, via the Sheldon Brown method. My wife knit me a sleeve that goes around the U lock to keep the bike frame from getting scratched. I do not have quick releases on my wheels (with the tires that I use for commuting, I never get flats), and I have not had any issues. My utility bike, which is used for groceries and other errands tends to be left in more dangerous places. It has an 'AXA Defender' frame lock, with a chain. Depending on where/how long I will be leaving it, I may add a U lock to the mix.
#10
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,299
Likes: 16
I use a cheap cable lock for my expensive commuter bikes, but I only ride them between home and work where there is secure parking. We have two bike racks at work. One is in an underground parking garage which can only be accessed with a badge and has a security camera right above the bike rack. The other is behind the building which also has a security camera and is patrolled by building security officers. If I want to run errands downtown, I'll use the beater bike and lock it with a beefy lock in an area with high foot-traffic.
#11
pass through campus this morning. lots of student sure have nice bikes. they also like those kryptonite locks. they also need to visit Sheldon's page. lock through the spokes but nothing else... lock on frame not attached to anything except the frame.... lock on bike's rack just hanging down.... none of them attached to the bike rack the bikes were parked at. I guess they really don't think anyone is going to steal their kryptonite protected bikes.... I am still shaking my head.
#12
You gonna eat that?
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,917
Likes: 543
From: Fort Worth, Texas Church of Hopeful Uncertainty
Bikes: 1966 Raleigh DL-1 Tourist, 1973 Schwinn Varsity, 1983 Raleigh Marathon, 1994 Nishiki Sport XRS
$15 Master cable lock. Then again I work in a building with an enclosed perimeter with guards at the gates, so I only have to worry about my coworkers.
#13
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I have become a huge advocate of the newer combination locks from Kryptonite and Master. None of the issues associated with the key lock's vulnerabilities. Plus, You always have your code, in case you forget your keys.
I also recommend the additional cables to secure your wheels or to connect to challenging places, and especially for those dicier neighborhoods.
I also recommend the additional cables to secure your wheels or to connect to challenging places, and especially for those dicier neighborhoods.
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Leave it in my office, but otherwise same as amckimmey.
U-Lock through one of the wheels + frame (usually back wheel, but depending on whats available on the racks and how I can position my bike, not always easy) with a cable lock looped around the other wheel and attached to the u-lock.
Although recently I've just been bringing it into my office - even though I dont think it's in a high-risk area, there have been times in the past I've come back to my bike being damaged (wheel bent, brake lines pulled, etc) just from being jostled around in an overpacked bike rack.
U-Lock through one of the wheels + frame (usually back wheel, but depending on whats available on the racks and how I can position my bike, not always easy) with a cable lock looped around the other wheel and attached to the u-lock.
Although recently I've just been bringing it into my office - even though I dont think it's in a high-risk area, there have been times in the past I've come back to my bike being damaged (wheel bent, brake lines pulled, etc) just from being jostled around in an overpacked bike rack.
#17
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,077
Likes: 4
From: Cary, NC
Bikes: 1983 Trek 500, 2002 Lemond Zurich, 2023 Litespeed Watia
I use locking wheel skewers. I then lock just the frame however I want, as long as the bike won't fall over.
If I will be locking it at the same place repeatedly I bring a U-lock. If I am running errands to random places, I bring a cable lock. Both have the same combination so I don't need a key.
If I will be locking it at the same place repeatedly I bring a U-lock. If I am running errands to random places, I bring a cable lock. Both have the same combination so I don't need a key.
#20
I am a caffine girl
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,815
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area
Bikes: 2012 Stumpjumper FSR Comp...2010 Scott CR1 CF...2007 Novara FS Float2.0...2009 Specialized Hardrock Disc...2009 Schwinn Le Tour GSr
If I was a bike theif, that will be the last bike I will try to steal. It almost looks like a setup for a sting operation!
#21
Extraordinary Magnitude


Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 14,087
Likes: 2,146
From: Waukesha WI
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
I take it in to the building and put it in a work room.
__________________
*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#24
I lock mine in an unused office...inside a secure building (cypherlock access)...on a military base with lots of armed guards and barbed wire. So far I haven't had any theft problems.
#25
Born Again Pagan
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,241
Likes: 2
From: Southwestern Ontario
Bikes: Schwinn hybrid, Raleigh MTB
I use a Magnum 3000 U-lock. I lock it through the rear wheel and frame. The front wheel has a standard axle & bolt set-up instead of a QR. If I had more valuable wheels I would invest in some Pitlock skewers. If the bike itself were more valuable I would also use a heavy chain & padlock with my U-lock and skewers. I would then leave the chain locked to the rack where I park my bike. At home I keep my bike in a locked garage.














