CRASHED: snapped handlebar
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,719
Likes: 4
From: London, UK
Bikes: 2006 road bike, 2012 cx bike, 2012 carbon rb, 2014 hardtail
CRASHED: snapped handlebar
On Thursday evening's ride back home I was doing around 15mph at an intersection when my right-side handlebar (right where the stem meets the bar) snapped. Of course I didn't know that at the time; all I knew was my left hand felt over-weighted and that I was gonna go down any second.
I was gonna go down on the road surface but managed to put in another couple of strong pedal strokes and prepared to hit the grass verge a few feet further up so I managed a controlled crash. No injuries except couple of bruises and scrapes.
After some dog ran over to where I was sitting and started licking me all over and the dog's owner attempting to get the dog off, I examined the bike and saw the bar had snapped just to the right of where the stem meets it. I hit no bumps or potholes and have traveled this route for 2 years so know the road surfaces. Handlebar is stock item on bike and has around 11000 miles on it. I'm 95kg (210 lbs). It's been serviced twice (full dis-assembly/re-assembly at LBS). Over the years I noticed softness in the front end, but I figured that was just me getting stronger.
Questions about bike:
It's an aluminum Specialized purchased September 2006 and there doesn't appear to be any frame damage. Should I still bother getting the frame checked out?
Obviously i need new handlebars (I dont know what make they are, just standard Allez item, I guess aluminum). But should I also buy a new stem?
Am I supposed to change handlebars every couple of years or something (I read that on an archived bf thread)?
I was gonna go down on the road surface but managed to put in another couple of strong pedal strokes and prepared to hit the grass verge a few feet further up so I managed a controlled crash. No injuries except couple of bruises and scrapes.
After some dog ran over to where I was sitting and started licking me all over and the dog's owner attempting to get the dog off, I examined the bike and saw the bar had snapped just to the right of where the stem meets it. I hit no bumps or potholes and have traveled this route for 2 years so know the road surfaces. Handlebar is stock item on bike and has around 11000 miles on it. I'm 95kg (210 lbs). It's been serviced twice (full dis-assembly/re-assembly at LBS). Over the years I noticed softness in the front end, but I figured that was just me getting stronger.
Questions about bike:
It's an aluminum Specialized purchased September 2006 and there doesn't appear to be any frame damage. Should I still bother getting the frame checked out?
Obviously i need new handlebars (I dont know what make they are, just standard Allez item, I guess aluminum). But should I also buy a new stem?
Am I supposed to change handlebars every couple of years or something (I read that on an archived bf thread)?
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,947
Likes: 1
From: Absecon, NJ
Bikes: Puch Luzern, Puch Mistral SLE, Bianchi Pista, Motobecane Grand Touring, Austro-Daimler Ultima, Legnano, Raleigh MountainTour, Cannondale SM600
Ouch. Same thing happened to me about 3 months ago. I wasn't as fortunate as you though and smashed headfirst into the pavement before I even realized what happened. Smashed helmet, couldn't move my neck for a week.




#3
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,978
Likes: 4
From: Atlanta
Bikes: Cannondale T700s and a few others
Damn that helmet is ugly! Good thing you are one of the people who wear them.
Older handle bars are doubled up at the stem area. Make you wonder if somewhere along the lines the old manufactures understood the stresses at the stem and that we have taken a step backwards with the current designs that lack that sleeve.
Post a Pick of the failed specialized bar
Older handle bars are doubled up at the stem area. Make you wonder if somewhere along the lines the old manufactures understood the stresses at the stem and that we have taken a step backwards with the current designs that lack that sleeve.
Post a Pick of the failed specialized bar
#4
over 11000 miles, I guess just Al fatigue. But I'm curious how that works out for racers that pile on the miles. Do you tug on your bars a lot?
Last edited by hairnet; 06-26-10 at 10:44 AM.
#7
+1 on Al fatigue. Too many cyclist want the lightest bikes possible and the manufacturer's have responded. So it is just as much our own fault that new bars do not take the stresses and vibrations the old bars did.
I was much luckier than the top posters, mine broke while I was stopped at a red light.
Just replace the bar and start doing more frequent and detailed inspections (especially any Al parts).
I was much luckier than the top posters, mine broke while I was stopped at a red light.
Just replace the bar and start doing more frequent and detailed inspections (especially any Al parts).
#8
Senior Member


Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,838
Likes: 398
From: Michigan
Bikes: Trek 730 (quad), 720 & 830, Bike Friday NWT, Brompton M36R & M6R, Dahon HAT060 & HT060, ...
I have parted with alu handlebars a number of years ago. I had problems with the bars rotating inside the stem clamp during rough riding. The tightening did not seem to help. After a closer examination, I realized that the handlebar was caving in in the clamp area. My conclusion was that the material was too crummy for the application and live with steel handlebars ever after. The only problem is that right now you get more variations in alu than steel. Since the handlebar-stem combination I have suits me reasonably well, it is OK.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 450
Likes: 4
Most manufacturers have time limits for replacing Al parts. For instance, Felt recommends exchanging your Al handlebars at least every two years of active riding. I guess that has to do something with your experience. Or rather, to avoid your experience. Anyway, Al handlebars are expendable, and I personally change them every year to two at max, never had a problem that way.
#10
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 12,948
Likes: 9
From: England
In the olden days, handlebars had a length of shim where the stem clamped the bare. This prevented scoring of the bar and distributed the stress of the clamp over a wider area. Modern bars have butted mid-sections but IMHO the old shim system is superior and with a scalloped edge, prettier.
#11
Newbie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Ottawa, Ontario
The same thing happened to me a week and a half ago on my commute home, the only difference is that I was more fortunate. I was just coming to a stop at a red light when the right side came off in my hand. I ended up with a good size bruise on the inside of my left thigh from the frame slamming over, no other damage to me. It was funny because I was still squeezing the brake in my right hand with the loose section of handlebar. If it had happened a few moments earlier, I would hate to think of what would have happened. Based on the amount of force that the frame went into my left thigh, I think I could easily have veered left into traffic, and there was a bus that had just passed by me on the left.
By looking at the pics below, you may notice that there may have been an advance warning sign that went unnoticed. There is a darker area along the fracture where the fracture has oxidized. I think this must have been an existing crack in the handlebars that went unnoticed.
I have had these handlebars on this bike since the mid 1990's. I did not feel anything prior to the catastrophic failure. I think considering the handlebars a consumable is a really good idea that I would not have considered before this happened to me.
My bike frame is steel, and I'm glad. After seeing this happen, I don't think I'll buy an aluminum frame...



By looking at the pics below, you may notice that there may have been an advance warning sign that went unnoticed. There is a darker area along the fracture where the fracture has oxidized. I think this must have been an existing crack in the handlebars that went unnoticed.
I have had these handlebars on this bike since the mid 1990's. I did not feel anything prior to the catastrophic failure. I think considering the handlebars a consumable is a really good idea that I would not have considered before this happened to me.
My bike frame is steel, and I'm glad. After seeing this happen, I don't think I'll buy an aluminum frame...



Last edited by SharpCdn; 06-27-10 at 07:27 AM.
#12
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,719
Likes: 4
From: London, UK
Bikes: 2006 road bike, 2012 cx bike, 2012 carbon rb, 2014 hardtail
+1 on Al fatigue. Too many cyclist want the lightest bikes possible and the manufacturer's have responded. So it is just as much our own fault that new bars do not take the stresses and vibrations the old bars did.
I was much luckier than the top posters, mine broke while I was stopped at a red light.
Just replace the bar and start doing more frequent and detailed inspections (especially any Al parts).
I was much luckier than the top posters, mine broke while I was stopped at a red light.
Just replace the bar and start doing more frequent and detailed inspections (especially any Al parts).
Most manufacturers have time limits for replacing Al parts. For instance, Felt recommends exchanging your Al handlebars at least every two years of active riding. I guess that has to do something with your experience. Or rather, to avoid your experience. Anyway, Al handlebars are expendable, and I personally change them every year to two at max, never had a problem that way.
#13
Senior Member


Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,423
Likes: 204
From: London
Bikes: Baum Romano, Brompton S2, Homemade Bamboo!
Local rider here just had an AL handlebar failure - snap at the stem. Heavy fall, broken collar bone.
He's be traveling a lot to races lately and thinks the bars may have been damaged by baggage handlers or by him constantly loosening and tightening the stem without a torque wrench.
He's be traveling a lot to races lately and thinks the bars may have been damaged by baggage handlers or by him constantly loosening and tightening the stem without a torque wrench.
#14
Randomhead
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 25,930
Likes: 4,825
From: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
By looking at the pics below, you may notice that there may have been an advance warning sign that went unnoticed. There is a darker area along the fracture where the fracture has oxidized. I think this must have been an existing crack in the handlebars that went unnoticed.
#15
Randomhead
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 25,930
Likes: 4,825
From: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
By looking at the pics below, you may notice that there may have been an advance warning sign that went unnoticed. There is a darker area along the fracture where the fracture has oxidized. I think this must have been an existing crack in the handlebars that went unnoticed.
#17
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 450
Likes: 4
#18
Senior Member


Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,951
Likes: 688
From: Port Angeles, WA
Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.
Reviving this old thread to add a data point: Riding my '85 Trek 600 Series through some rough gravel, the right side of the alloy bars failed at the stem. I'm guessing it's just 32 years of fatigue; there is no evidence the bike has ever been crashed or otherwise abused.
I got lucky; I was only going about 12-14 mph due to the rough surface and brought the bike to a stop without crashing. I was able to very gingerly nurse it home about 5 miles.
I got lucky; I was only going about 12-14 mph due to the rough surface and brought the bike to a stop without crashing. I was able to very gingerly nurse it home about 5 miles.
__________________
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#19
Reviving this old thread to add a data point: Riding my '85 Trek 600 Series through some rough gravel, the right side of the alloy bars failed at the stem. I'm guessing it's just 32 years of fatigue; there is no evidence the bike has ever been crashed or otherwise abused.
I got lucky; I was only going about 12-14 mph due to the rough surface and brought the bike to a stop without crashing. I was able to very gingerly nurse it home about 5 miles.

I got lucky; I was only going about 12-14 mph due to the rough surface and brought the bike to a stop without crashing. I was able to very gingerly nurse it home about 5 miles.

So much for the theory that old bars are better than new bars.
Can you tell if the bar was double-thick in the middle or not?
#20
Senior Member


Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,951
Likes: 688
From: Port Angeles, WA
Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.
I doubt it. I'll take a closer look if I have time to perform an autopsy tonight. I'll post the brand, etc. and more pics when I have it all taken apart.
__________________
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#21
A few years ago, my 30 year old GB All Rounder bars broke at the stem. No fall as I was climbing a hill and when I pulled up on the bar it slowly hinged toward me. Wasn't easy riding the rest of the way home. I replaced them with a chrome-moly Nitto bar that has about the same profile as the old GB bar. The steel is thinner than the Al bar so the weight gain was not significant.
#22
curmudgineer
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,417
Likes: 113
From: Chicago SW burbs
Bikes: 2 many 2 fit here
That location has always looked like a likely spot for failure to me, but this thread has really opened my eyes to the real possibility with the real world anecdotes that posters have shared
#23
Disco Infiltrator




Joined: May 2013
Posts: 15,324
Likes: 3,517
From: Folsom CA
Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem
Scary thread!
Yeah Geoff, it's a stress concentration for sure
Yeah Geoff, it's a stress concentration for sure
__________________
Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
#25





