Just deal with it?
#1
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Bellevue, NE
Bikes: '06 Trek 1000, '09 Gary Fisher Supercaliber, '10 Trek XO2
Just deal with it?
I just started the whole commute thing to save some money on gas. So far so good! I am currently using my road bike which seems to do the job, but isn't really something I can "get on and go" and I also don't want to affix a lot of gear to it since I use to for training and group rides. I was thinking about getting a new commuter. So..here's my thoughts.
Should I?
Just deal with what I have?
Get commuter MTB style handlebars and shocks? (Something like a hybrid)
Get commuter with drop bars that would be similar to what I have now?
Get Surly Pugsly which would seem like it would work year round in all weather conditions including snow?
Should I?
Just deal with what I have?
Get commuter MTB style handlebars and shocks? (Something like a hybrid)
Get commuter with drop bars that would be similar to what I have now?
Get Surly Pugsly which would seem like it would work year round in all weather conditions including snow?
#2
Is not wanting to hang gear off of your current bike the only thing you don't like about commuting with it?
If so, there are road bikes that are more rack and fender friendly. A lot of people like commuting with cross-bikes. A Surly CrossCheck would have enough clearance for some good sized studded tires for winter.
Personally I think it would be cool to own a Pugsly but I wouldn't really want to commute on one.
I have a rack on my road bike and some times I show up to my group rides after work sporting fully loaded panniers. I just take em off and they keep them behind the counter for me at the bike shop we meet at.
If so, there are road bikes that are more rack and fender friendly. A lot of people like commuting with cross-bikes. A Surly CrossCheck would have enough clearance for some good sized studded tires for winter.
Personally I think it would be cool to own a Pugsly but I wouldn't really want to commute on one.
I have a rack on my road bike and some times I show up to my group rides after work sporting fully loaded panniers. I just take em off and they keep them behind the counter for me at the bike shop we meet at.
#4
Thread Starter
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From: Bellevue, NE
Bikes: '06 Trek 1000, '09 Gary Fisher Supercaliber, '10 Trek XO2
#5
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From: Northern VT
Bikes: recumbent & upright
Very biased here - IMHO: build up a CrossCheck or similar frame set up as a 1x9 with 39 t chain ring and 12-36 [or 11-34] cassette. If you are going to be commuting year around, get a set of well built stout wheels - at least 32 spokes. Key to a CrossCheck's versatility is the ability to accept a wide range of tires; you can put on 25 mm tires for speedy summer commute, 45 mm for trails or 35 mm studded tires in the winter.
#6
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There are plenty of ways to get a rack on a bike not made for it. I don't tend to think a rack is all that much of a burden when riding with nothing on it. I suppose if you are really racing hard and need to shed every bit of weight (I don't think most racks would give you an aerodynamic penalty).
https://www.axiomgear.com/products/ge...eamliner-road/
That one from axiom is a slim rack made to fit on a bike with no braze-ons/taps. I do not know how much weight you need to carry, but it should do the trick and I doubt you will notice it while riding. If you do, you will just need to get 640g faster...
The rest of the commuting gear you might need (lights, locks, bells) can all be easily taken off the bike when you don't need them, and of course you do not need to train with any luggage on your rack.
https://www.axiomgear.com/products/ge...eamliner-road/
That one from axiom is a slim rack made to fit on a bike with no braze-ons/taps. I do not know how much weight you need to carry, but it should do the trick and I doubt you will notice it while riding. If you do, you will just need to get 640g faster...
The rest of the commuting gear you might need (lights, locks, bells) can all be easily taken off the bike when you don't need them, and of course you do not need to train with any luggage on your rack.
#7
It's true, man.
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: North Texas
Bikes: Cannondale T1000, Inbred SS 29er, Supercaliber 29er, Crescent Mark XX, Burley Rumba Tandem
It's kinda fun to show up at training rides on a bike with extra commuter weight on it - as long as you are faster than about half of the group.
#9
#11
Thread Starter
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From: Bellevue, NE
Bikes: '06 Trek 1000, '09 Gary Fisher Supercaliber, '10 Trek XO2
#13
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Depending on how nice your road bike is you may want to get a good bag. I used to use a Seagull messenger bag (black bag, large), which was very comfortable. The only bad thing was back sweat in the summer.
If you have a nice road bike, I wouldn't lock it up around town much. I take my old Bianchi Bianchi (road bike) everywhere. As long as I'm not getting many large items, I usually take it to the grocery store. My commute use to be about 4 miles.
If you have a nice road bike, I wouldn't lock it up around town much. I take my old Bianchi Bianchi (road bike) everywhere. As long as I'm not getting many large items, I usually take it to the grocery store. My commute use to be about 4 miles.
#14
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Binghamton, NY
Bikes: Workcycles FR8, 2016 Jamis Coda Comp, 2008 Surly Long Haul Trucker
You don't have to get anything new unless you mean new to you. Your local craigslist might have some nice deals. I personally have a LHT with rack and fenders, and a comuterized hardtail (Although I just lost my job) that i would commute with. Only the LHT was brand new (although it was a year earlier model). The hardtail was hardly used and 10 years old when I bought it.
#15
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Mississippi Coast
Bikes: 198? Raleigh Technium 480, 1970 Raleigh Sports, Motobecane Nomade Sprint
I say look at garage sales, thrift stores, craigslist etc... for an old steel touring frame. Anything in decent shape that hopefully has a nice frame. Then you're not out much $$ if you don't like it. And if you like it, then you can upgrade it over time.
Plus, as a commuter, an older bike might look less tempting to steal.
Plus, as a commuter, an older bike might look less tempting to steal.
#16
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From: West Central FL
Bikes: Specialized, Felt, Surly, Masi,Giant
I am a big Surly fan and think a Pugsly or Karate Monkey would be way cool especially the Karate Monkey. I find my Long Haul Trucker to be an excellent commuter with the racks and bags I can carry everything I need except my lap top and I am working on a solution for that. The other option to consider is a Burley Travoy trailer for your road bike which attaches to the seat post and has a nifty quick release.
#17
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Brooklyn NY
Bikes: Kuota Kredo/Chorus, Trek 7000 commuter, Trek 8000 MTB and a few others
For a 3 mile commute you really don't need a fancy bike. Any old clunker would do unless you are looking to do the entire 3 miles at 20+mph. Buying a Surly anything is way overkill. If you do training on a road bike 3 miles is just a spin around the block.
#18
Plays in traffic
Joined: May 2006
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: 1996 Litespeed Classic, 2006 Trek Portland, 2013 Ribble Winter/Audax, 2016 Giant Talon 4
Two road bikes rigged for commuting (one of them for all-seasons, all-conditions), and two road bikes rigged for club rides. You need a main bike and a backup for each application.
#19
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Davis CA
Bikes: Surly Cross-Check, '85 Giant road bike (unrecogizable fixed-gear conversion
You also need each bike in both a fixed and geared configuration. That brings it up to eight.
#20
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From: Bellevue, NE
Bikes: '06 Trek 1000, '09 Gary Fisher Supercaliber, '10 Trek XO2
I road a single speed commuting bike with drop bars the other day. I was kind of funky since the brake levers were in a different position on top of not be able to ship up hills. I suppose the simplicity is nice, though.
#21
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From: Bellevue, NE
Bikes: '06 Trek 1000, '09 Gary Fisher Supercaliber, '10 Trek XO2
I would agree somewhat. I was going to buy my buddies Huffy Orcala for 20 bucks, but after the 1 mile ride home I could never see myself actually commuting on it. I felt like I was using 3 times more energy to go twice as slow on top of the fact it was a cruiser setup and I did not like sitting way upright like that.
#22
My only comment is that if you can do the commute with a road bike, you don't need shocks.
80's 90' MTB, rigid, with Big Apple tires. That's plenty , unless you actually want to go more off-road that just dropping off curbs.
80's 90' MTB, rigid, with Big Apple tires. That's plenty , unless you actually want to go more off-road that just dropping off curbs.
#23
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,162
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From: Brooklyn NY
Bikes: Kuota Kredo/Chorus, Trek 7000 commuter, Trek 8000 MTB and a few others
I would agree somewhat. I was going to buy my buddies Huffy Orcala for 20 bucks, but after the 1 mile ride home I could never see myself actually commuting on it. I felt like I was using 3 times more energy to go twice as slow on top of the fact it was a cruiser setup and I did not like sitting way upright like that.
#24
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Minneapolis, MN
Actually, if you live where it snows and you commute in the winter you also need 2 different bikes - one with the lighter faster studded tires, and one with the heavier monster tires for days that is snows, so we're up to 9... ;-)
#25
A backup bike is a great thing to have... provided you can afford it and have space to store it. I have 3 bikes - a tourer, a vintage road bike and a hybrid for winter commuting. I'd like to have more bikes... but I'd prefer to spend more time riding than fixing them up. Three bikes is a nicer balance for me right now between space, effort and having sufficient backup.







