I'm sure you guys have seen millions of these posts asking about how is this and how is that, but I'm clueless when it comes to bikes.

I need a bike for commuting purposes 5 ~ 7 mi. and I hear it's better to get a hybrid than a road bike.

So I found this one for $160,

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv...861110801.html

What do you guys think?

That looks like it's be a good commuter. It's got two eyelet holes on the rear dropouts for a rack and fender. It's also got a triple which is nice for hills. I prefer smaller tires though, but those tires are fine.

I know someone who commutes on an old Specialized like that. He's got mountain bike tires on his though.

I've commuterized a similar bike. Maybe a couple years different based on the pain scheme.



I've updated the front brakes to V brakes rather than cantis but the U brake on the chainstay is almost impossible to update I believe. I've added fenders, a front rack (with Wald basket) and a rear rack (not pictured), changed the handlebars to my liking, added a mirrow, some lights, replaced the pedals and added PowerGrips, a Cardiff saddle and a saddlebag. She's not light, but she's comfortable and the gearing is fairly good for my commute and ability. My commute is 5.25 miles and I do it most of the time on this bike because hauling the stuff I need to haul to work is easier and more comfortable on this bike than my Aurora. The upright posture makes me easily seen and allows me to have excellent visibility. I bought this bike to make it my poor man's Riv in the style of a Bombadil, and I think I've accomplished it. The bike rides well, certainly more comfortable than the Trek hybrid I replaced, but the front basket causes wheel flop when loaded.

From a style POV, I'm not sure the one you link to would be my choice IF that's really a down-sloping top tube, but it might be an optical illusion.

Seeing as the seller has tuned up the bike and replaced the tires and tubes, the price seems decent. I paid about $100 in Ebay plus shipping from Cali to NY, and that was before I made the changes and additions noted above. It's hard to tell from the picture, but the chain appears to be fairly rusty. If that's the case, I'd ask the sell to knock off $20 so the chain can be replaced. So as long as the size is right (I first bought an 18" frame that was too small (I'm 6'2)) I'd say it seems reasonable.

I've been commuting on one of those for a while, and it's great. I put a rack, panniers and lights on mine, and switched the knobbies to slicks.

Craigslist prices vary by region, but $160 seems like a lot for that bike. There are better bikes available for that money. At least in this neighborhood.

The listing says that the bike was stored indoors for many years so there's not much rust, yet the handlebars look to have quite a bit of rust. There appears to be rust on the bottle cage bolts and the chain as well. My guess is that it also has friction shifting instead of more modern indexed shifting (though I could be wrong on that one). A lot of people prefer friction shifting but the majority of the cycling public doesn't.

I also disagree with the premise that a hybrid is better than a road bike for commuting. It really depends on the particular bike, your commute, and your personal tastes. If the roads are pretty decent, then in my opinion, the road bike is going to be better unless you really don't like drop bars.

On the plus side, if that's the going rate for a bike like that and it rides + shifts well, then it will certainly be good enough for a 5 - 7 mile commute.

TJ brings up some good points. Assuming that it all checks out ok & that's the going rate in your area, the Hardrock is a great commuter. I rode one for several years & loved it. I second putting slicks on it though, that made a huge difference for me.

Looks like a rust bucket. I was at the dump the other day, and there was a fenced in area full of bikes of that vintage in about the same condition. Unless you are prepared to refurbish the bike, I would keep looking, and perhaps even consider buying a new bike for a little more money. If you really like that bike and it fits you, offer $50 max.

I've been looking around the craigslist for while but the prices for bikes seem to be inflated in SoCal. MOST used bikes go for $150+, never seen anything below that price mark unless there's something wrong with it (chain missing, tires NTB replaced, etc..)

As for $50 offer comment, I think the seller already replaced the tires and tubes, and has tuned up the bike. It would be GREAT if he would sell it for $50 dollars but the replacement he made costs up to the offer.

I'm going to have to go check it out in person and see what'sup.

If it fits and rides and shifts fine, it would make a nice commuter. I do agree that the price looks a little high, but i'm sure prices do vary by region. Don't be afraid to ask questions and listen to the answers. If something doesn't jive ask for clarification. You'll make the determination of whether to buy or not.

Just FYI, I paid $125 for mine (it's about a 1999) 6 years ago, and it had new wheels, tires, tubes, rim strips and a tune up.

I find it very annoying to deal with some of SoCal sellers on craigslist. They are ridiculously unreasonable with prices and when I try to reason with them why their bikes aren't worth the posted prices, all I get is screw you, someone else will buy it.

Is it just me or LA prices for bikes really jacked up?

It's the same here in I.E., So Cal. Even some Wally World bikes are listed high.

In the C&V subforum, there's a thread about the Wacky World of CL ads. Some things are just nuts. In my local market, a Wally World Pacific MTB goes for $75-$150. A tuned up gas pipe/ bike boom era bike from a flipper goes for $150-$300 (sometimes takes a while to sell them). At times prices in NYC are more reasonable, if you get them fast enough, but then again, the PistaDex in NYC is north of $575 (hipsters.)
I maintain that a quality bike from the 80s such as the Hardrock above is a decent buy at $150 but I'll lower my recommended offer to $120 given the rust on the handlebars, chain, cassette, etc. Go see the bike, take money, offer $120 right then right there. Negotiate if you can to $130 or walk and wait for something else to come up.