Hi all,

I've been a member here for some time, but mostly lurk, to soak up the info from the more informed. More recently I thought I might should be a more active member, thusly I have some questions.

I got into cycling with the purpose of being a "mountain biker". That is, I bought a bike with the sole purpose of riding the trails. This was all fine and good until the time change(due to DLST) and the days got shorter. To make up for the lost daylight, I decided I would commute back and forth to work. I've been doing so now for about 2 months and have not intention of stopping. I love it.

My first bike(other than the thing I got from a box store which has been discarded) is a Raleigh M80. I've ridden the crap out of it, on both trails and street. I've since purchased a new mountain bike from the LBS and would like to convert the Raleigh to a commuter the best I can.

My plans are to replace the fork, tires, and possibly raise the handle bars. I'd like to add a rack and fenders as well. I really want to upgrade the whole bike. Not only to make it a better ride, but just because I enjoy learning how to do such things. I want to be able to work on my bikes and not depend on the LBS.

I'm going to have to do this piecemeal due to budgetary constraints. In what order should I do this, or rather, what is going to have the biggest impact on my ride?

Right now I'm using the new bike for commuting for the simple fact that it's a new bike and I really dig it. I also like it's geometry better, mostly the height of the handle bars. It also gets free tuneups for a year from the LBS, so I want to ride the crap out of it.

That said, I also feel that the new bike will be a much greater temptation for bike thieves and I don't want to tear it's wheels up on the pavement for a great deal longer. My biggest problem is the new bike just feels so much better.

When I ride the Raleigh it feels foreign to me now. I've compared the frames of the two and they aren't too much different. I think the main thing I feel that makes the two contrast so greatly is the height of the handlebars. For this reason my thinking is that I should change the fork first with a rigid fork. This way I can cut the tube to the correct height and be done with it.(not to mention I like the lockout feature of the new bike when riding on the roads, the current fork is suspension).

That said, I don't know if new tires would be a better "first upgrade, or conversion" I've read alot that say that tires make all the difference in the world.

I don't post much, but when I do it's awful wordy, sorry about that. I really have learned alot here and would love to hear ya'lls informed input to my specific situation.

I guess to simplify the question....

What to change first....fork or tires???

tires for sure will make the biggest difference, how old of an m-80? if its 1 1/8 you might as well leave the sus fork on as rigid forks in that size are not that easy to come by.

Would recommend simply locking out the front fork instead of changing it out for a rigid. Street tires. Then upgrade the drivetrain. Chain, cassette and chainrings. Replace your brake pads and cables next. Maybe replace your deraileur(s). If the lateral swing and adjustment screws are still good don't bother to replace, just clean and re-lube. Get some fenders. Either replace or repack your bb. Trial and error is the best teacher. I've got 3 different bikes with which I commute. They're all set up slightly different and 'feel' different. I just deal and keep pedaling.

I believe it's a 2006 M-80, it's not that old really. I can't lock it out, it doesn't have that option. But I appreciate all the suggestions...I've thought about the drivetrain, but it's really the most expensive upgrade, so for now...due to budgetary constraints I'll do the tires...

2006!! shoot put some new tires on her, replace the wear and tear items then throw a rack on her and she'll be good. And seeming though you have the sus forks just get some high pressure slicks they should even each other out and you'll have a nice fast ride. Get an adjustable rise stem that will fix the bar height problem without having to mess with the forks.

Thanks Fizz! that was one of my "thought out" options....any good suggestions on the adjustable rise stem?....I saw a couple at nashbar....I guess those would be ok...

P.S...cool avatar...Bad Taste....one of my favorite movies....ever...

Sorry, misread your post. If possible then tighten the shocks as much as possible to limit the travel and stiffen the fork. My suggestion re the drivetrain was as budget allows. That's why I listed it as 2nd. But, I agree to 'throw a rack on her and she'll be good'. 1.5" tires for street use in combo w/an mtb will give you a much faster ride.

Yay im not the only one who loves bad taste

I'm not a fan of adjustable stems. They always seem to have a little play in them. I look at them as a tool to figure out what you really need, then replace with a rigid stem of the right dimensions once you know.

Based on some advice, I considered freezing the travel on my suspension forks by using some JB Weld or such. I opted out, but a few folks I talked to were fans. It is destructive / permanent / cheap if it works, presuming you won't get a decent salvage value for the forks you're taking off.

I agree that tires are job 1. Then probably stem. After that, fenders or rack are a toss up based on your preferences. I'd say fork is the lowest impact and return on investment.

I kinda like the front suspension on my cummuter. Makes the ride to work a little smoother and is a break from the road bike. I put the high pressure tires on and lights. That is all I have done in the last three years. I thought about fenders but I really dont like commuting in the rain. Instead of a rack I opted for a backpack.

I cannot say enough about these tires no flats in 1000 miles and they still have plenty of life left:

https://bike.com/kenda-kwest-high-pre...=GoogleProduct

Unless there is something wrong with the fork, it shouldn't make much difference.

Riding with my fork fully locked out vs fully active never made a measurable difference in my commute times.

If you stand on the pedals a fair bit, it might make a psychological difference to feel it bobbing a bit.

Ill second the Kwest's for the price IMO they can't be beat, ive gotten about 700mi and one flat from a dry wall screw

Can't tell you about changing forks because I've never done it. It seems to me that new tyres (or tires, if you're the other side of the Atlantic) would be a cheap thing to do and would give you a lot less rolling resistance.

My friend's wife had a mountain bike with tyres that would grip just about anything. Trouble was she couldn't even freewheel down big hills, her tyres gripped the road so hard they slowed her down, going down hills. He swapped the tyres out for ones more suited to the road and suddenly her speeds increased dramatically.

I once saw a guy with a Specialized Rockhopper with narrow wheels and road slicks on it. For myself I'd rather stick with wider tyres that would also work for some off-road stuff, even if only because it would mean I could ride trails at the weekend without having to fiddle about swapping tyres or wheels. But then if you've got a second bike to use you might find road slicks to be the best option.

If you feel comfortable on your new bike and the geometery is simular just get stem that puts your handlebars in about he same position the new bike is in. Take both to the LBS and pick out a stem to put on the M-80 that matches the position you like on your newer bike. Put them side by side. If you get something pretty close it will make a big difference. If I went back to the original stem on my Trek it would feel so awkward. I have a longer stem now with less rise and it really made a big difference right away.

Changing tires is a pretty big deal. Depending on what you have now you can be shocked with the speed you feel when you put those smooth tires tires on.

I wouldn't worry about the fork. Keep your eye out for a cheap used one that would fit your bike if it gets annoying. Get a rack and fenders and then move onto the drivetrain if you want to mess with that.

+1, I've been a big fan of them since I had a set of 700C x 38's. FYI, Jenson has the 26 x 1.5" 100psi version for $18 right now, I've got a set on the way

I don't see any reason to change the drivetrain at all, maybe get a different cassette when the current one wears out.

May also want different pedals more appropriate for whatever shoes you want to wear.

I had Serfas tires on my MTB commuter but I have Kwest on my current fixie commuter - both great tires. Some tires have a casing that deteriorates with typical commuting use... Performance's house brand is like that... total junk.

I never liked suspension forks for road riding either but maybe if you can make them really stiff they won't bother you.

So I suggest: 1) lights 2) slicks 3) fenders

The first thing I would change would be tires. They make one of the biggest differences in speed and comfort.

The next thing would be adjusting the stem since you mentioned you want your handlebars lower. Take out a spacer or two and drop you handlebars. You can also get spacers in different stackable heights. That would be far easier and cheaper than cutting your fork (which should be a last resort once you have everything dialed in).

Next make the fork as rigid as possible. It should still rebound if you hit rail tracks or potholes, but shouldn't effect speed noticeably.

This is probably the cheapest solution since all you are paying for is tires and possibly spacers.

PS Until reviewing this thread again, I missed the issue the OP raised about changing the fork height for a longer steerer tube / stem height.

My prior answer downgrading the impact of the fork change was addressing only the benefit of removing the suspension bounce. I assume some others were focused primarily on that aspect, too.

OP, if your issue really is handlebar height, then:
a) you may get plenty with changing spacers or changing stem geometry
b) I think there are some steerer tube extensions out there which might work for the height issue alone
c) if neither of those cheaper options work, you may indeed want to prioritize the fork for the height alone. But for commuter-ness only, should be low on the list.

Mountain bikes make great commuter. Conversion is easy, just bolt on what you need. Non-knobby tires will roll easier on the commute, better yet if they are high pressure tires. Ditch the suspension fork for a simple lighter rigid fork. Fenders, lights, rack, panniers etc.

Address the handlebar height with stem spacers, a new stem or handlebar.

700 miles, 1000 miles... lets try 6000 miles.

For the price you can't beat the Schwalbe Hurricane... costs about $30.00 but rolls faster, handles better, and I have a set that has gone 10,000+ km / 6300 miles without a flat and they still look fresh.

I gave some Kwest tyres a decent test run and was not pleased with how much slower they were and how poorly they cornered compared to the Schwalbes.

Mind you... I fit a lot of tyres to a lot of bikes (and road test a lot of tyres) and no-one has ever said a set of Hurricanes wasn't worth every penny they spent on them.

They make my "best" list.

Have not used the 700c version.

If you really want to pick up your road speed with a 26 inch wheel the Specialized Fat Boy slick is an amazing tyre... I have a set mounted and waiting for springtime riding.

They are a b*** to install but are fairly bulletproof due to their flak jacket construction... they retail for about $25.00.

I have a Raleigh M60 and been commuting almost two years now. First thing ditched the knobby tires. Put on some Schwalbe Silento II for the spring, summer and fall, and then schwalbe Snow studs for the winter. Put on an extra long rear luggage rack Jandd Mountaineering, for foot clearance with the panniers. The extra long rear luggage rack allowed me to place the panniers further back. I thought of changing the front fork also but instead purchased an extender which works great and costs far less. I also added a Planet bike 2 watt headlight, Cateye TL LD1100 tail light, Planet bike protégé 9.0 wireless computer, and Arkel T-42 panniers with rain covers. Oh one more item I went to a web site that sold above 55 MPH highway construction workers reflective mesh vests ($13.00) and I've put on 4500 happy safe commuter miles on my 2003 Raleigh M60.

When I started in 83. I had a mass produced Motobecane with middle of the road Sun Tour components, a year later I ruined the frame. I bought a Austro Daimler frame, transferred the parts and rode that thing for 14 years before the frame rotted on me. Anyway, every year I upgraded the parts. Brakes one year, crank the next year, new wheels, and so on. After a few years I had a kick ass (in my mind) touring bike that could ride over gravel with ease and was comfortable as heck.
Those M-80's are sturdy bikes. If you just change a few of the more important components, like others said, maybe start with the drivetrain. Go to Ebay and find some cheap parts there.

When the Austro Daimler broke down I replaced it with a hybrid Gary Fisher, I've been riding that ever since. And I just dropped some serious coin on a complete overhaul of the drivetrain, wheels and brakes. I picked up a brand new Shimano Hollowtech crank on Ebay and saved about a $100 on it. It feels like a brand new bike.

Personally for budget parts I look to Nashbar. A lot of there stuff is just rebadged decent products, I have a rear derailleur from them and thought about getting their crankset (if they would make an external bb version).

For cheap slicks I would look at them also they have the Slick Wire Bead MTB which is only 9.99 ea right now.