Nice ride, I just built up an 18" frame very simular to yours. Everyone who sees mine says, "Holy Steerer tube!" Don't know if you have had the same reaction with yours. The head tube is really short on this frameset so you have to use all those spacers to make up for it. I was wondering what brand fenders did you use, and what did you use to mount the front fender to the bottom of the steerer tube? Also, what is the black metal piece that the rack is mounted to on the rear dropout? Where did you get that? Thanks for your help. I haven't rode mine much, just finished it the other night but really looking forward to it. Thanks, happy trails!

For once I'm loving all the TROLLing in a build thread

That's an exceptional build, Alan.

Are you sure your rear disc brake adapter is on correctly? I thought the "R -->" meant this arrow should point rearward, which flips it with respect to how you have it. I kind of like your way better because you can run the wheel further into the dropout but I'd rather make sure I have the adapter on correctly. What kind of fenders do you have? I don't think my fender rods are long enough to bend around the front disc brake caliper

The rear brake adapter is installed as Surly intended. As for the fenders, I simply used a longer bolt and a spacer to clear the brake assembly. I don't know what brand they are- they look like Planet Bike but they were unmarked in a pick-a-part bin, and the rods are just long enough.

I replaced the Problem Solvers centerlock to 6 bolt adapter for a Shimano adapter on the Alfine 11 hub, and there's no more wobble in the rear disk. I also installed Ergon grips on the Soma Swallow handlebars and they feel much better than the old rubber grips. I also got a 28 tooth chainring in the mail today. I'll see if there's enough room in the dropout to have 2 chainrings without changing the chain length and of course avoiding a chain tensioner.

It's shocking how quiet the Alfine hub is- very little chain noise while pedaling and no clicking freewheel at all. Very stealthy if you don't count the bright orange paint job! I've almost got 100 miles on the Troll so far and I really love it. I can't wait to try it on some trails soon, I've been mostly riding roads and bike paths so far.

Also, I believe the R---> refers to rotation, not rearward.

How much did this cost you to build up? I've learned a lot about bike components since I bought a stock Cross Check.

For example, I don't really like the Tektro Oryx brakes. They squeal like crazy. Even after they've been adjusted at the shop, they'll start squealing after maybe two weeks. It's painful, really. I already got Kool-stop brake pads, but it hasn't made that much of a difference. I want switch out the Tektro's for some spendy Paul Touring canti's now. I'm hope that will make a difference.

What I'm asking, though, is did you go all out for quality with your custom build? Does spending more money really make a noticeable difference? I did a fantasy build this morning for a Karate Monkey with Shimano XT components, Brooks saddle and handle bar tape, and Paul brakes. It came out to about $1850, about the same as Salsa's stock cycles. Do you think there is a noticeable difference between the lower end and higher end components? For example, the difference between Shimano's Tiagra vs. Ultegra lines or the SRAM Rival vs SRAM Red for road groups or Shimano's Deore vs. Deore XT and SRAM's X.4 vs. X.0 for mountain bike groups. Do you get what you pay for?

I used wikipedia as a resource to understand the hierarchy of quality in Shimano and SRAM's respective product lines.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shimano...bike_groupsets
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SRAM_Corporation

Noice!

Some recent additions include Schwalbe Big Apples (26x2.35), Salsa QR seatpost binder and Lizardskins chainstay protector. The "fat" tires only add to the awesome ride quality, and I can hardly feel the bumps and rocks. They roll really well, and surprisingly, the fenders needed no adjustment to fit the Big Apples. I know you all like pics, so here are a few taken at Lock 5 on the C&O Canal.

The bike looks great.

Is the rack Topeak as well? What are you using to attach the rack to the seat post (the yellow thing)?

Topeak rack and bag. The yellow thing is actually an orange bungee cord. I don't trust the latch on the bag to adequately secure the bag to the rack, and with the bungee, there is no risk of losing it. I ride over some pretty rough stuff on my commute.

them's some Big Apples!

Albert, I've got the stock Tekro Oryx brakes that came on my LHT and moved them around to my Cross-Check. The brakes I put on the LHT were IRD. and they work even better but what I did with the Oryx is put on the wider cable straddles and made sure the straddle was as low/tight as possible to the fender so the leverage was greatest. If you've got stock Alex rims that have kind of a milled surface with lots of fine lines on the braking surface check to see that aluminum isn't piled into the brake pads. Dialing in the brakes is something you should learn how to do and not rely on the shop as it sometimes takes a couple times with trial and error to make sure the angles are right. The Oryx brakes work fine for me.

https://www.bikeman.com/BR7177.html

https://store.interlocracing.com/cacabr.html

I see now. I didn't notice the silver mounting arms earlier.

Man, looks like we kinda have the same idea! Mine rides great and so far I love it. I used mostly shimano deore components from a specialized rockhopper that I pickup real cheap. Planet bike fenders, Topeak mtx rack and EXP trunk bag, Schwalbe marathon tires, ergon grips, Avid BB7 disc brakes. I've been enjoying all of your pics as well. Happy trails!

Nice pics, jrjwoodsman, and nice build.

I had to work Saturday in downtown DC, and rode 30 miles roundtrip, 22 of which were on the C&O Canal towpath from Old Anglers Inn. There was no fatigue from the terrain, and it was like riding on the road as far as comfort goes. I've spent alot of time on the towpath over the years, and can usually cruise at around 16 mph unless it's a really smooth section. The Big Apples allowed me to maintain a steady 18 mph, gliding over the rocks and gravel. This will definitely be my tire of choice for a planned 180 mile ride along the C&O this summer.

I need to play around with the tire pressure a bit and find what works best. Started out at 50 psi, and then lowered to 45 psi toward the end of the ride. Speed seemed about the same, but it was a more cushy ride at 45 psi. However, riding on the road at 45 psi would probably be a bit slower. Definitely need to get a pump for the bike, as the volume of the tires is huge, and even a couple CO2 cartridges probably aren't enough.

[I second that about Big Apples.

I have a Rat Ride but I'm building it up as a Mini Pugsley.

Surly just makes great bikes for very little money. I think highly of their BD, which I have.

Nice! Love to see Salsa and Surly going head to head in this market segment. Never mind they are both QBP "proteges" https://www.qbp.com/brands.html - it's nice to see companies making serious commuter frames instead of wannabe racing bikes.

Had the bike out for a ride last weekend along the Potomac on the C&O Canal without the rack. The river was at flood stage at Mather Gorge just below Great Falls. The part of river in the foreground is usually dry, but was one giant rapid.

I'm going to ride to Harper's Ferry and back, which is around 100 miles, one day in the next couple weeks as a shakedown for a longer two-day C&O ride of 184 miles later in the summer. Not exactly commuting, but I'm really enjoying the versatility of the Troll as both a commuter and off-road touring bike.

Very cool. Just the conditions these frames were designed for...

I just took my Troll to the big island of Hawaii. It was great, I was mostly on roads but had a few dirt/sandy and lava rock trails as well.

I boxed it up and it was easy to get back and forth from the airports. That's exactly what I intended to do with this bike- take it around the world. I'm still considering cutting the frame in half and installing the S&S couplers so it will fit in a suitcase, that would make it even easier. I took a Dahon folding bike for my g/f that fits in a Samsonite and that was really easy too.

Trolls fly just fine!

Had the bike out over the weekend for a trial run on the C&O Canal Towpath. Plan to ride the length of the canal this summer, and wanted to go a decent distance to get an idea of average speed and conditions. I did the one-way trip of about 50 miles from Harper's Ferry to home in just under 4 hours at a very relaxed pace. Thought I'd share a few pics. It's a beautiful place to ride without the stress of traffic.

Monocacy Aquaduct at Mile 42


Riding along somewhere. Found out it's pretty hard to take pictures underway.


Taking a break at Seneca Creek at Mile 22


Potomac River at Seneca Creek

Alan - great build. I am impressed. I'm considering building a Troll up for commuting as well. The long-term plan would be to put an IGH hub in the back, but I'll have to save up for that. Anyway, my biggest concern with the Troll is how to remove the rear wheel to fix a flat on the side of the trail when there are mudguards. Any thoughts?

If you are planning on doing a IGH I would just look at a 1x1 since it has no derailluer tab but is still a sliding drop out.

^^Even so, I'd opt for the troll given its increased versatility. I like to have the option of derailer/SS/IGH on the same frame.

I carry a multitool with a 10mm wrench to loosen the rear set of fender stays. It's an additional step, but not a big deal. The wheel has just enough room to slide out of the dropout.