Bean busy in the workshop...
#1
Thread Starter
You gonna eat that?
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,917
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From: Fort Worth, Texas Church of Hopeful Uncertainty
Bikes: 1966 Raleigh DL-1 Tourist, 1973 Schwinn Varsity, 1983 Raleigh Marathon, 1994 Nishiki Sport XRS
Bean busy in the workshop...
The flat bar with extensions hasn't been doin' it for me lately.

It was time to try something new. So I put some ergo drops on my commuter with Tektro brake levers and Suntour barcon shifters. Got the workings done tonight; still have the bar tape to do.

I plan to use natural-colored cork tape on the bars.

It was time to try something new. So I put some ergo drops on my commuter with Tektro brake levers and Suntour barcon shifters. Got the workings done tonight; still have the bar tape to do.

I plan to use natural-colored cork tape on the bars.
#2
Banned
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 8,701
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From: Mississauga/Toronto, Ontario canada
Bikes: I have 3 singlespeed/fixed gear bikes
I did the same thing last year. I decided to put drop bars on two of my mountain bikes.
Now after riding it for few months I realize it was the best thing that I've done to my bikes and I regret for not doing it long time ago. Before I decided to put drop bars I was a little bit skeptical and afraid on how it would handle especially in winter when there is snow... but all my fears were for nothing.. My commuter bikes are also used for long distance recreational rides and some singletrack riding. I find drop bars to be extremely comfortable, much better then anything else I tried before. I get very good control in snow and offroad. What I really like about it, is when I commute on windy days, riding in the drops makes a big difference when I have a strong headwind.
My drops are mounted high , the steer tube on my fork is uncut and I also use a high rise stem, this set up works very well for me. Riding in traffic with my hands on the hoods gives me a more upright position so I can see in front of me... and I can still take advantage of the drops when it's windy. I am very happy with my set up.
Now after riding it for few months I realize it was the best thing that I've done to my bikes and I regret for not doing it long time ago. Before I decided to put drop bars I was a little bit skeptical and afraid on how it would handle especially in winter when there is snow... but all my fears were for nothing.. My commuter bikes are also used for long distance recreational rides and some singletrack riding. I find drop bars to be extremely comfortable, much better then anything else I tried before. I get very good control in snow and offroad. What I really like about it, is when I commute on windy days, riding in the drops makes a big difference when I have a strong headwind.
My drops are mounted high , the steer tube on my fork is uncut and I also use a high rise stem, this set up works very well for me. Riding in traffic with my hands on the hoods gives me a more upright position so I can see in front of me... and I can still take advantage of the drops when it's windy. I am very happy with my set up.
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 313
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From: Shreveport
Bikes: 1983 Trek 520, early 80's Univega Gran Tourismo, '98 Santana Arriva, '71 Dawes Galaxy, '77 Peugeot UO10
If you friction shift you can run the gear cables under the tape like the aero brake cables. It looks much cleaner than the "flying whiskers" style routing almost everyone assumes you have to use with bar end shifters.
#4
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 231
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From: Salt Lake City,Utah
Bikes: Soma Saga, Soma ES, Salsa El Mariachi, Old Bianchi SS Conversion. Nishiki Cascade Beater
Every one is different. I run my bar ends almost flat. Kind of the same position as riding ton the hoods on a drop bar.
#7
Plays in traffic
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,971
Likes: 15
From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: 1996 Litespeed Classic, 2006 Trek Portland, 2013 Ribble Winter/Audax, 2016 Giant Talon 4
Doohickie:
You may want to run without bar tape, or with cheap bar tape until you figure out where you want the brake levers. Especially since you also replaced that riser quill stem with the threadless adaptor and stem. That's a lot of changes to adjust to. It's a little easier if you don't have to worry about ruining nice bar tape while you get everything dialed-in.
#8
Thread Starter
You gonna eat that?
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,917
Likes: 543
From: Fort Worth, Texas Church of Hopeful Uncertainty
Bikes: 1966 Raleigh DL-1 Tourist, 1973 Schwinn Varsity, 1983 Raleigh Marathon, 1994 Nishiki Sport XRS
Actually I think my stem was too high which, when I put my bar ends at a "fashionable" 45 degrees didn't work at all.
#9
Thread Starter
You gonna eat that?
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,917
Likes: 543
From: Fort Worth, Texas Church of Hopeful Uncertainty
Bikes: 1966 Raleigh DL-1 Tourist, 1973 Schwinn Varsity, 1983 Raleigh Marathon, 1994 Nishiki Sport XRS
It's a 1994 Nishiki Sport XRS. Made in Kent, Washington, at the Raleigh plant, so if you want to find something similar, look for a mid-90s Nishiki, Raleigh or Univega hybrid.
My plan exactly. I have some old pre-used black stuff that I will put on for the time being. I may leave it on as an underlay when I put on the natural cork I got for this project.
I did too until, like the OP, I realized that what I really wanted was drop bars.
Doohickie:
You may want to run without bar tape, or with cheap bar tape until you figure out where you want the brake levers. Especially since you also replaced that riser quill stem with the threadless adaptor and stem. That's a lot of changes to adjust to. It's a little easier if you don't have to worry about ruining nice bar tape while you get everything dialed-in.
Doohickie:
You may want to run without bar tape, or with cheap bar tape until you figure out where you want the brake levers. Especially since you also replaced that riser quill stem with the threadless adaptor and stem. That's a lot of changes to adjust to. It's a little easier if you don't have to worry about ruining nice bar tape while you get everything dialed-in.
#10
Thread Starter
You gonna eat that?
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,917
Likes: 543
From: Fort Worth, Texas Church of Hopeful Uncertainty
Bikes: 1966 Raleigh DL-1 Tourist, 1973 Schwinn Varsity, 1983 Raleigh Marathon, 1994 Nishiki Sport XRS
One thing that surprised me was the total cable travel for my triple in the front was a lot longer than for the 7 speeds in the back.
#11
This bike is cat approved
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,531
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From: Lincoln, NE
Bikes: To many to list...
I asked because it looked like the Giant Fandango (thats so fun to say) hybrid I found for a college student recently. Its probably from about the same year as yours. Part of the reason she likes it is because its purple. =) That will be a nice looking bike (well it was before too) I wish I had never sold my Suntour bar end shifters.
#12
Thread Starter
You gonna eat that?
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,917
Likes: 543
From: Fort Worth, Texas Church of Hopeful Uncertainty
Bikes: 1966 Raleigh DL-1 Tourist, 1973 Schwinn Varsity, 1983 Raleigh Marathon, 1994 Nishiki Sport XRS
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 231
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From: Salt Lake City,Utah
Bikes: Soma Saga, Soma ES, Salsa El Mariachi, Old Bianchi SS Conversion. Nishiki Cascade Beater
[QUOTE=tsl;12185812]I did too until, like the OP, I realized that what I really wanted was drop bars.
Exactly!
Exactly!
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