In my case, I think my hands just can't take very much weight for very long. Moving my seat back helped, but I don't see any way to move my bars back to keep from having to reach that far out. I'm still working on it, maybe a new steering stem, but I'll be watching this thread with interest.

I was all set to drop a lot of cash on Ergon grips with integrated bar ends but found you could do it much cheaper separately. So I bought Specialized Body Geometry handlebar grips and Specialized bar ends (I think they were called Dirt Rodz, the ones that have a curve at the top).

Having the bar ends is great insofar as you've got more hand positions to choose from, but sometimes I find that I'm prone to rest more weight than I should on my hands, which just makes things worse.

I just replaced the drops on my 29er with a flat bar setup. I wanted comfortable grips compared to bar tape. I got some 'foam' Titec Pork Rinds. They're cheap, light and comfortable. I may not need to wear gloves.

I have a lot of experience with hand pain. I also have a lot of bikes. I have one of them dialed in and am in the process of working on the others. There has been good advice in the thread but much of it conflicting. I hope to offer a comprehensive solution in one post.

I haven't seen anywhere where you mention your height or reach and what size the bike is. My Raleigh Tandem is slightly too big for me. I put Ergon grips on it but they did nothing. Not saying that they aren't a good idea but they are not magic. Have also bought a Delta Threadless Stem Extender. I see where you have perhaps another 1/2" (?) of stem rise left on yours. You should use it. At minimum your handlebars should be an inch higher than your seat. Better would be 2". Ideal would be 4". That puts you in Dutch Workbike territory and you present maximum frontal area to the wind. Not good. But comfortable. Very. On my other tandem I have the handlebars 2" above seat height and I have the seat back as far as possible. That bike is somewhat undersized for me but it is a cruiser type tandem and the handlebars have an insane amount of rise. I am using no stem extension whatsoever. I could if I wanted get the handlebars 4" or more above seat height but 2" is fine and gives me a lot more forward lean than the average cruiser type likes but I am not a cruiser type.

I am also more or less a KOPS (knee over pedal spindle) advocate. In theory moving the seat fore and aft is soley to put your knee over the pedal spindle. On your type of bike your knee is likely behind the pedal spindle by some amount with the seat centered over the seatpost. I wouldn't want a plumbline dropped from the front of my kneecap to fall much more than an inch behind the pedal spindle with the pedal at the 3 o'clock (forward horizontal) position. Presumably the ball of your foot is also centered over the pedal spindle.

I really think on your bike the problem is handlebar height. For $20 a stem extender is a cheap solution. There are also shorter stems although yours is pretty short. Still, because your headtube is tilted ~73* as you extend it upward you will also be moving backward by some amount. You will get a shorter stem by default as you raise your handlebars with the stem extender. You may have to get longer brake and shifter cables but likely not. Keep us posted.

H

I have a lot of experience with hand pain. I also have a lot of bikes. I have one of them dialed in and am in the process of working on the others. There has been good advice in the thread but much of it conflicting. I hope to offer a comprehensive solution in one post.

I haven't seen anywhere where you mention your height or reach and what size the bike is. My Raleigh Tandem is slightly too big for me. I put Ergon grips on it but they did nothing. Not saying that they aren't a good idea but they are not magic. Have also bought a Delta Threadless Stem Extender. I see where you have perhaps another 1/2" (?) of stem rise left on yours. You should use it. At minimum your handlebars should be an inch higher than your seat. Better would be 2". Ideal would be 4". That puts you in Dutch Workbike territory and you present maximum frontal area to the wind. Not good. But comfortable. Very. On my other tandem I have the handlebars 2" above seat height and I have the seat back as far as possible. That bike is somewhat undersized for me but it is a cruiser type tandem and the handlebars have an insane amount of rise. I am using no stem extension whatsoever. I could if I wanted get the handlebars 4" or more above seat height but 2" is fine and gives me a lot more forward lean than the average cruiser type likes but I am not a cruiser type.

I am also more or less a KOPS (knee over pedal spindle) advocate. In theory moving the seat fore and aft is soley to put your knee over the pedal spindle. On your type of bike your knee is likely behind the pedal spindle by some amount with the seat centered over the seatpost. I wouldn't want a plumbline dropped from the front of my kneecap to fall much more than an inch behind the pedal spindle with the pedal at the 3 o'clock (forward horizontal) position. Presumably the ball of your foot is also centered over the pedal spindle.

I really think on your bike the problem is handlebar height. For $20 a stem extender is a cheap solution. There are also shorter stems although yours is pretty short. Still, because your headtube is tilted ~73* as you extend it upward you will also be moving backward by some amount. You will get a shorter stem by default as you raise your handlebars with the stem extender. You may have to get longer brake and shifter cables but likely not. Keep us posted.

H

5' 10", 32-33" dress shirt 34" inseam.

The bike is a 19" 2010 Marin San Rafael

I'd like to mention I'm not completely comfortable with this, but I'll take one for the team if it helps.

Your position on the bike is just about classic. A nice amount of forward lean. It may be me but you look a tad cramped. How did you arrive at that frame size? No matter. Its workable. You already have the bars around an inch above seat height maybe even a smidgen more. That wasn't enough to stop my hand pain and I had to go to 2". Truth be told. If you stuck with it and did nothing further to the bike but dialed back the length of your rides to where you had no pain and then started to work up to longer rides you would be pain free in a few months. Do you wear gloves? You should. Some padding if possible but not too much. A level saddle is the ideal but a degree or two of nose up will help you out. Will those pedals take toe clips and straps? Consider a pair. They will help you keep your feet in the proper spot on the pedals and can help your stroke. You don't ever want to actually cinch down the straps. Or you can get PowerGrips. I am your height with a 33.5 inseam, 33/34 sleeve

H

You might try trekking bars. Nashbar has some for sub $25, and they use MTB fittings. Lots of hand positions.

I've been happy with my moustache bars on my touring roadie, but trekking bars are really cool, IMO.

I went by the size chart the the stand over height on the 20.5 was a little to close for comfort--if you know what I mean. I come from a mountain biking back ground, we like having that extra clearance between the boys and the top tube. I have to lean this bike over pretty far to get my leg over it, It could be my age, but I think it's a pretty good fit.

I am now, I have my old Specialized BG gloves, they have a padded insert on the palm. My job is only 3.5 miles from here. Now that I'm getting some leg/lungs back, I've been able to do more than just pedal and wish I was there. I've gotten in the habit of moving my hands to the bar ends, holding the brake, switching it up as much as I can, the riser bar is limited.

I know, I've never been able to get comfortable like that, maybe I just have a big ass. I'm a big clipless advocate, I have a pair I'm going to put on, not sure what I'm waiting for. I'm getting pretty comfortable on the bike, I've started bunny hopping off curbs and have starting to lean into turns hard, maybe it's those dam skinny tires. They are fast but not very confidence inspiring.

I have something similar to the Cane Creek bar ends on my bike, and I really like them. I can't use them as much as I'd like (too heavy traffic and unpredictable behaviour of other road users) because I need to keep my hands on the brake levers a lot of the time, but when I can use them they're super comfortable. Haven't had any problems with hand numbness, and I have a 27 mile round trip commute.