Another Denali lifetime report thread?
#226
This bike is cat approved
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,531
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, NE
Bikes: To many to list...
The 48 tooth triple is more of a hybrid so its not so bad. Before changing it out you might want to be sure you are not mashing the gears pedaling too slow. A 48-13 at 90 rpm is 27 mph which is fairly fast. Changing the crank to a road crank might mean you need to change the front derailer as well so keep that in mind and yes the shifters you have may or may not work with the crank and derailer you put on there it just depends. Just some stuff to think about. =)
#227
Nigel
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,991
Likes: 7
From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: 1980s and 1990s steel: CyclePro, Nishiki, Schwinn, SR, Trek........
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That being the case, I'd recommend swapping out the front cranks. Your current crank has a large ring with a 48 tooth count, you'll want something with more. Most mountain bike cranksets seem to have the 48 tooth count (this is what the Denali has, a mountain crank) while the road cranks may have anywhere from 50-53 usually. You'll want at least a double to give you a bailout gear for hills (I find some hills impossible to go up in the large chainring, mine is 52 teeth) and you may have to change out your front derailleur for a road derailleur if you find, like I did, that the stock derailleur is too wide and strikes the crank arms on each revolution. Any Shimano road derailleur will work well, as long as it's clamp on and not braze on. I went with Sora and it's absolutely flawless.
A note on the above though: If you do change out your crank arms and derailleur, there's a fair chance that your stock shifter won't work with it. I can't say for sure because I'd already changed out the shifters by the time I changed the crankset and derailleur..
That being the case, I'd recommend swapping out the front cranks. Your current crank has a large ring with a 48 tooth count, you'll want something with more. Most mountain bike cranksets seem to have the 48 tooth count (this is what the Denali has, a mountain crank) while the road cranks may have anywhere from 50-53 usually. You'll want at least a double to give you a bailout gear for hills (I find some hills impossible to go up in the large chainring, mine is 52 teeth) and you may have to change out your front derailleur for a road derailleur if you find, like I did, that the stock derailleur is too wide and strikes the crank arms on each revolution. Any Shimano road derailleur will work well, as long as it's clamp on and not braze on. I went with Sora and it's absolutely flawless.
A note on the above though: If you do change out your crank arms and derailleur, there's a fair chance that your stock shifter won't work with it. I can't say for sure because I'd already changed out the shifters by the time I changed the crankset and derailleur..
Get a double crankset, but go with a road triple which has more travel, which will give you more margin on the chainline.
#228
Thread Starter
Dept. store bike bandit
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Looks like it's time for this week's end of week report!
710 miles on the bike now, still no problems. Well, one minor one.
Earlier I had reported that the brake lever assembly sometimes moved down on it's own on bumps, and that I was going to tighten it. Well I tried (removed the bar tape and all) but I could not find how to tighten the metal strap that goes around the back of those things. Anyone know how to do that?
I managed to get it to sit in place well enough on it's own but it slid down yesterday on a really hard bump, so I'd like to fix it if I can.
But no problem other than that minor complaint. Bike rides great, and I can always depend on it 100% to get me where I want to go, no matter the distance. I may try moving the hoods a little further down on the bar to take off some pressure from the area between my index finger and thumb, once I figure out how to tighten/loosen them.
Here's how the Denali is parked at home:

I've vowed never to let another bike of mine sit outside ever again. The rust and dust is too much to deal with, so this bike has been inside since new.
More later. Going on a longish ride (for me) tomorrow again, like usual.
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710 miles on the bike now, still no problems. Well, one minor one.
Earlier I had reported that the brake lever assembly sometimes moved down on it's own on bumps, and that I was going to tighten it. Well I tried (removed the bar tape and all) but I could not find how to tighten the metal strap that goes around the back of those things. Anyone know how to do that?
I managed to get it to sit in place well enough on it's own but it slid down yesterday on a really hard bump, so I'd like to fix it if I can.
But no problem other than that minor complaint. Bike rides great, and I can always depend on it 100% to get me where I want to go, no matter the distance. I may try moving the hoods a little further down on the bar to take off some pressure from the area between my index finger and thumb, once I figure out how to tighten/loosen them.
Here's how the Denali is parked at home:

I've vowed never to let another bike of mine sit outside ever again. The rust and dust is too much to deal with, so this bike has been inside since new.
More later. Going on a longish ride (for me) tomorrow again, like usual.
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#229
typically, to tighten that type of lever, you have to loosen the tension on the brake cable by disconnecting it from the brakes, press the lever to the bar to open the guts of the lever, pull out the top of the cable. This will allow you to see the top of the allen bolt that tightens the band holding the lever to the bars. Stick your allen wrench in there and tighten that puppy up. The you have to reset your brake cable and attach it to your brakes. A bit of a pain, but doable.
__________________
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),
#230
If you go to this link: https://www.tektro.com/_english/01_pr...s&sort=2&fid=3 and download the user's manual in the lower right side, you should see a diagram of how to assemble it. Hopefully, that will give you a clue as to how to fix it if yours is similar.
__________________
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),
#231
Looks like it's time for this week's end of week report!
710 miles on the bike now, still no problems. Well, one minor one.
Earlier I had reported that the brake lever assembly sometimes moved down on it's own on bumps, and that I was going to tighten it. Well I tried (removed the bar tape and all) but I could not find how to tighten the metal strap that goes around the back of those things. Anyone know how to do that?
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710 miles on the bike now, still no problems. Well, one minor one.
Earlier I had reported that the brake lever assembly sometimes moved down on it's own on bumps, and that I was going to tighten it. Well I tried (removed the bar tape and all) but I could not find how to tighten the metal strap that goes around the back of those things. Anyone know how to do that?
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#233
One thing that's been puzzling me is about the frame, and various opinions I've seen. Mainly that it's not worth upgrading beyond low end components. I understand that the sum of the parts can be more expensive than the whole bike, but assuming you avoid the LBS prices and labor charges, what is the issue specifically?
The frame weighs four pounds. The lightest frame you can get is two pounds. Generally speaking at rational expenditures, we're looking at a pound to a pound and a half heavier than a carbon frame. So if you used the components of an 18 pound CF bike you'd have a 19 to 20 pound "Denali". Is that a deal-breaker from the frame alone?
No doubt there are differences in handling characteristics. Stiffness, road vibration, "feel" whatever that is, and so on. I wouldn't know - probably most owners of such low end bikes have little or no time in the saddle on high end bikes. So I'd like to hear from those of you who have spent time on both. What are the serious, deal-breaker drawbacks of the frame itself other than the extra pound or so?
The frame weighs four pounds. The lightest frame you can get is two pounds. Generally speaking at rational expenditures, we're looking at a pound to a pound and a half heavier than a carbon frame. So if you used the components of an 18 pound CF bike you'd have a 19 to 20 pound "Denali". Is that a deal-breaker from the frame alone?
No doubt there are differences in handling characteristics. Stiffness, road vibration, "feel" whatever that is, and so on. I wouldn't know - probably most owners of such low end bikes have little or no time in the saddle on high end bikes. So I'd like to hear from those of you who have spent time on both. What are the serious, deal-breaker drawbacks of the frame itself other than the extra pound or so?
1. The rear spacing is 135mm (like MTBs and hybrids) rather than standard road spacing which is 130 mm. I'm sure they did this because cheap MTB hubs are readily available. A cheap road hub is going to be more expensive.
2. The frame is designed for a 1" threaded fork and quill stem. This makes it more adjustable out of the box but it also means that getting rid of that heavy steel fork is going to be more complicated (but not impossible).
I haven't ridden a Denali or a high-end road bike so I can't comment on whether or not the frame is overly flexy or gives a harsher than average ride.
A few years ago I had a 20 year old Peugeot road bike that was in excellent shape but I wanted something more modern. I like upgrading bikes and I was torn between getting a newer bike or just upgrading the components on the Peugeot. I ended up finding a 2 year old Specialized Allez on Craigslist for $350. I sold the Peugeot for $270. So for $80 I had a much better bike. Of course no one's going to pay $270 for a used Denali and finding 2 year old road bikes for $350 isn't all that easy.
Still, to me it doesn't make much sense to put decent components on a low end frame like that. You can get a much better frame from Nashbar right now for $75. If you want carbon stays, it'll only cost you $24 more.
What one could do is upgrade components to a Denali and make sure they save the old ones. Then at some point get a better frame, move the newer components to the the new frame and put the old components on the Denali to use as a back-up bike or to sell.
#234
That's good to know. So replacing the Denali frame would mean you'd also need forks and hub or cassette, and probably the headset and handlebars? I can see how that could relegate the retired Denali to the role of spare parts rather than upgrade.
#235
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 463
Likes: 1
From: American SPacifNorthWest. PDX
Bikes: American Eagle, Nishiki.Semipro. Great bike.
This is my future bike! Thanks for the info. More than generous review! I can't wait to get that box delivered to me. I love putting things together too! Especially new things, straight out of a box.
This is a helpful review on YouTube:
This is a helpful review on YouTube:
Last edited by Cyclomania; 07-30-11 at 09:20 PM.
#237
Thread Starter
Dept. store bike bandit
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Glad you enjoyed the thread Cyclomania! Hope you enjoy your new bike.
Nothing new to report on the Denali, other than it could really use a good bath but I'm not sure how I'd go about doing that. So I suppose I'll just keep wiping it down. 744 miles on the bike now.
I'd like to break my previous top speed record, I might try that today if I have time. I reached 39.7 mph last week. I bet I can crack 40 if I tried a bit harder. Fortunately the bike is very stable and I feel comfortable at those speeds.
Of course, these speeds are reached while going downhill. My gears seem to max out at about 35 mph or so, past that point I'm spinning too fast to do anything, gravity does all the work at that point. I could fix this with different gear combos, but for all practical purposes my bike already seems to be geared too much toward top speed capability for the local terrain as it is. The positive aspect of this is that I notice I'm getting a lot stronger and faster on hills, and on group rides I seem to have more top end than the other riders. But at the same time, with my lowest combo being 42-26, every now and then there's a hill that just really takes it out of me.
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Nothing new to report on the Denali, other than it could really use a good bath but I'm not sure how I'd go about doing that. So I suppose I'll just keep wiping it down. 744 miles on the bike now.
I'd like to break my previous top speed record, I might try that today if I have time. I reached 39.7 mph last week. I bet I can crack 40 if I tried a bit harder. Fortunately the bike is very stable and I feel comfortable at those speeds.
Of course, these speeds are reached while going downhill. My gears seem to max out at about 35 mph or so, past that point I'm spinning too fast to do anything, gravity does all the work at that point. I could fix this with different gear combos, but for all practical purposes my bike already seems to be geared too much toward top speed capability for the local terrain as it is. The positive aspect of this is that I notice I'm getting a lot stronger and faster on hills, and on group rides I seem to have more top end than the other riders. But at the same time, with my lowest combo being 42-26, every now and then there's a hill that just really takes it out of me.
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#238
Thread Starter
Dept. store bike bandit
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
This week's end of week report!
This has been sort of a rest week. I think I only rode 4 days. The result was this Saturday ride was a LOT easier and faster for me.
787 miles on the bike now, no problems. It really rides nice. Finally seem to have everything adjusted right to where my hands, knees, and lower back don't bother me. Seems like previously as soon as I'd adjust things to get one pain to go away another would come up.
I also did succeed in breaking the 40 mph barrier I was talking about in my previous post. 41.1 mph is my current record! Seems like now that I'm getting stronger I am able to make use of this bike's top speed capabilities much more than I was previously able to.
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This has been sort of a rest week. I think I only rode 4 days. The result was this Saturday ride was a LOT easier and faster for me.
787 miles on the bike now, no problems. It really rides nice. Finally seem to have everything adjusted right to where my hands, knees, and lower back don't bother me. Seems like previously as soon as I'd adjust things to get one pain to go away another would come up.
I also did succeed in breaking the 40 mph barrier I was talking about in my previous post. 41.1 mph is my current record! Seems like now that I'm getting stronger I am able to make use of this bike's top speed capabilities much more than I was previously able to.
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#245
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,067
Likes: 73
From: USA
Bikes: 84 Pinarello Trevisio, 86 Guerciotti SLX, 96 Specialized Stumpjumper, 2010 Surly Cross Check, 88 Centurion Prestige, 73 Raleigh Sports, GT Force, Bridgestone MB4
Not a bad looking BSO (Bicycle Shaped Object). Good luck with the weight loss, keep at it. A combination of exercise and DIET will get your weight down and your health up. You have a nice dad, take care of him.
LC
LC
#246
Papaya King
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,640
Likes: 2
From: Columbus, Ohio (Grandview area)
Bikes: 2009 Felt X City D, 1985 (?) Trek 400, 1995 (?) Specialized Rockhopper, 1995 Trek 850
I laugh every time I see that this thread has another update, and so many pages. Now, I'm adding to it
I was mowing my lawn the other day and saw a guy on a black and yellow Denali go by. Bike looked pretty. He seemed happy. That's all I have.
I was mowing my lawn the other day and saw a guy on a black and yellow Denali go by. Bike looked pretty. He seemed happy. That's all I have.
#247
Thread Starter
Dept. store bike bandit
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Sorry, yes. I was going to go to maybe once every two weeks for an update since this bike has been so reliable that my posts are all sounding the same!
834 miles now and well, no problems. I still need to clean it up a bit, although I'm noticing that the other bikes in my local group aren't any cleaner, in fact most are dirtier.
Only other thing to add is that tomorrow the Denali and I will be competing in a time trial. I don't expect to do very well because I've only been riding for three months and my bike isn't particularly light but I'll be sure to post my results here regardless.
Thanks LC, I've been attacking the diet side as well from the start (not really changing what I eat, just cutting back on the excess) and it seems to be working great. 50 pounds lost, 12 to go. Pretty sure I'm in the best shape of my life right now.
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834 miles now and well, no problems. I still need to clean it up a bit, although I'm noticing that the other bikes in my local group aren't any cleaner, in fact most are dirtier.
Only other thing to add is that tomorrow the Denali and I will be competing in a time trial. I don't expect to do very well because I've only been riding for three months and my bike isn't particularly light but I'll be sure to post my results here regardless.
Thanks LC, I've been attacking the diet side as well from the start (not really changing what I eat, just cutting back on the excess) and it seems to be working great. 50 pounds lost, 12 to go. Pretty sure I'm in the best shape of my life right now.
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#248
This bike is cat approved
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,531
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, NE
Bikes: To many to list...
50lb! Awesome! The Denali was part of that so it deserves some love as well. You are creeping up on 1,000 miles thats pretty good. So many bikes are bought every year and never see 100 but generally thats the users fault not the bike.
#250
Rider
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,077
Likes: 5
From: Matanuska-Susitna Borough, AK
Question since I recall some mention of the tire being wide.. and on a project i'm looking into doing.
What kind of dropouts does the back wheel have, and how fat of a tire could that frame accomodate safely? The "road noise" around here is akin to a heavy metal concert, so i'm hoping that I can find a cheap, low theft risk frame with drop bar geometry that I can stick a 29x2.x tire onto. (i'm looking at 29x2.0, 29x2.35 tires now..) Not sure what the clearances are like on the Denali.
What kind of dropouts does the back wheel have, and how fat of a tire could that frame accomodate safely? The "road noise" around here is akin to a heavy metal concert, so i'm hoping that I can find a cheap, low theft risk frame with drop bar geometry that I can stick a 29x2.x tire onto. (i'm looking at 29x2.0, 29x2.35 tires now..) Not sure what the clearances are like on the Denali.







