Light weight, IGH, disk brake commuter any ideas?
#52
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I commute 20-30 miles (RT) per day using my Surly Karate Monkey with Alfine 8 IGH, thumb shifter, BB7 disc brakes, fenders, & Schwalbe marathon supreme 50's. I also put on a topeak rack even though it's frowned upon. I have to weigh the bike to get the exact amount but it's in the 30-35# ballpark. I think you can do a similar set-up with the Surly Troll as well. Rolls over all types of nastiness without issue. The winds here in Dallas are similar to Chicago and I find the Alfine 8 has plenty of range.
and why is a topeak rack frowned upon?
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I don't know why people hate on grip shifters. What's the big deal? If you're charging hard up a mountain in the Alps in the Tour, I suppose it does. For city riding though ?
As for the stopping distance. It is not as good as disk brakes, undoubtedly. But I don't even need to use my 'back up' front caliper brake unless a car does something unexpected. I ride 10 miles 2x/day (Foster and Kedzie to Roosevelt and Damen) pretty vigorously and maybe need to use my other brake once.
As for the stopping distance. It is not as good as disk brakes, undoubtedly. But I don't even need to use my 'back up' front caliper brake unless a car does something unexpected. I ride 10 miles 2x/day (Foster and Kedzie to Roosevelt and Damen) pretty vigorously and maybe need to use my other brake once.
small world I ride my bike to Tre Kronor or Smokey Bear BBQ for lunch right by you, i still havent tried that noodle place yet is it good?
#54
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the transit kenan is one dang ugly bike but kind of fits the bill but 2 gears short
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Whether you feel like you "need" to use studded tires or not depends on your tolerance for risk. I am not willing to take the risk of hitting an ice patch and falling over into moving traffic. The fact that the routes I ride are "usually plowed" is the only reason I ride in the winter at all - if they weren't plowed it would simply be impossible (right around 6 inches of unplowed and uncompressed snow is where it starts to become impossible to bike through faster than you could walk through, depending on the consistency of the snow).
Studs are for ice, which is exactly what you end up with on plowed streets.
This is sometimes a contentious topic as some people do ride without studs and they're like "it's fine". I can say that no matter how skilled they are, they always seem to hit some ice and fall over at least once every winter, more often 2-3 times. Now - following over into a snow bank isn't nearly as big of a deal as falling over into traffic or onto concrete as it's relatively soft and fluffly.
I don't know, I'm rambling. Let me put it this way - if you're into risk while riding your bike, let's say you're ok with doing crazy mountain biking jumps and just accept that eventually you'll probably break a bone (something you would have to accept if you do serious road racing as well), and you have serious bike handling skills then a lot of people who meet those criteria ride without studded tires.
But if you just want the bike to stay upright on ice and not have to constantly be on the watch for it, or if you want to eliminate as much serious risk as possible, then studded tires are definitely the way to go. I personally will not ride in the winter without studded tires at all. I remember after college I moved back home and went on a bike club ride in the fall and was complaining about the end of the riding season. Several people in the club said "Oh, you can ride in the winter to!". Having seen these discussions before (this was before studded tires were widely available and known about) I casually asked "so, have any of you gotten injured or broken any bones or anything?". And every single one of them had broken a bone at some point winter riding when they hit an invisible or unexpected ice patch.
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Paul,
thank you very much for your well thought-out post, which now has me dead set on studded tires, thank you
thank you very much for your well thought-out post, which now has me dead set on studded tires, thank you
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Hub width is the Over Locknut Distance/Dimension OLD
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Disc brake tabs on the seat stays make it harder to mount a rack- not impossible, just more difficult. Chain stay brake tabs are a lot easier to work with. Surly is up front about it and tells you that a rack on a Karate Monkey is not kosher.
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"One more thing: Surly does not recommend the use of racks and disc brakes at the same time on the Karate Monkey. A rack will not clear the disc caliper without jury-rigging the leg outboard, and this will put stress on the mount, potentially breaking it. If you take nothing else from reading this, remember: No rack and disc brakes simultaneously on this frame. Get it? Got it? Good."
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A rack will work... you just have to find one designed to work with disc brakes and thereby avoid jury-rigging. Axiom makes a rack that attaches to the brake caliper itself, and the aforementioned Topeak rack has "feet" on the ends of the struts and longer bolts to reach the eyelets:
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A rack will work... you just have to find one designed to work with disc brakes and thereby avoid jury-rigging. Axiom makes a rack that attaches to the brake caliper itself, and the aforementioned Topeak rack has "feet" on the ends of the struts and longer bolts to reach the eyelets:
For that matter, I don't know that putting another 30 lbs of weight on the caliper tabs while expecting them to hold up to the forces involved in braking is a good idea either.
Last edited by tjspiel; 06-24-11 at 08:55 AM.
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No problems so far with my mounts holding up. As you can see in the above pic my pannier gets stuffed - what you can't see is the 15" laptop, papers, files, textbooks, spare clothes, and a myriad of other things filling it up. The "feet" sit flat against the dropouts on my bike, and the longer bolts sit well within recessed holes on each "foot". It's pretty solid, and while I don't go looking for curbs to drop off of, I'm not afraid to do so.
I respect Surly's point of view, but IMHO the Topeak system works well. Surly's disclaimer warns against "jury-rigging", but the Topeak rack is hardly that; it is a well thought-out piece of equipment. That said, I wouldn't expect Surly to warranty a broken mount that was caused by a rack.
I respect Surly's point of view, but IMHO the Topeak system works well. Surly's disclaimer warns against "jury-rigging", but the Topeak rack is hardly that; it is a well thought-out piece of equipment. That said, I wouldn't expect Surly to warranty a broken mount that was caused by a rack.
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