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For my commute???

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Old 07-15-11 | 01:54 PM
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From: Portland, Oregon

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For my commute???

So the bike that I have been thinking about for my 30 mile per day round trip commute is the Trek 7.1 fx, is this a good bike? Does anyone have any experience with this bike or have any advice on a good bike to get?

Thanks
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Old 07-15-11 | 02:03 PM
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The Trek 7.1fx is a fine bike. However, for a 15 mile one way trip I would prefer something with more hand positions.

Suggestions would be based on a number of things including budget. Since you are in Portland you should be able to find a decent road bike on craigslist. Remember to factor in other accessories as well including fenders, rack, a good lock, etc....
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Old 07-15-11 | 02:11 PM
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Bikes: Trek 7.1 FX (2011)

I bought this bike a little over a month ago and I love it. My only problem was the seat; took a couple of week to get used to it.
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Old 07-15-11 | 02:16 PM
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The only issue is that there are some decent hills on my ride and I am concerned that a road bike would be geared too difficultly for them
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Old 07-15-11 | 02:32 PM
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I think an 80's or 90's roadbike would work. However if you have your heart set on the 7.1 then get it. Attach some bar ends and enjoy.
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Old 07-15-11 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by exile
I think an 80's or 90's roadbike would work. However if you have your heart set on the 7.1 then get it. Attach some bar ends and enjoy.
I think the 7.1 seems to be like a great bike at a great value
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Old 07-15-11 | 02:58 PM
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I have a 7.5 & it's a great bike. Don't know about the 7.1 specifically, but the 7.x line of bikes are very popular & I really enjoy mine.
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Old 07-15-11 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by MK313
I have a 7.5 & it's a great bike. Don't know about the 7.1 specifically, but the 7.x line of bikes are very popular & I really enjoy mine.
What do you enjoy most about it?
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Old 07-15-11 | 05:14 PM
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It's a straight bar, trekking bars offer more hand grip positions
and the gear /brake lever slide right on
I double wrap mine with thick padded tape .


Ergon Grips with integrated bar ends is another approach,
Hand support grip is widened.
GC3..
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Old 07-16-11 | 06:38 PM
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So is there a huge difference between the Alpha aluminum and the Alpha black aluminum in the Trek fx series?
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Old 07-16-11 | 06:45 PM
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I have also been looking at Specialized bikes as well mainly the Sirrus sport any thoughts on that vs a trek fx?
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Old 07-16-11 | 07:31 PM
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The Sirrus should be a little cheaper (at least they are around here). I've taken a Sirrus Sport for a test ride and a Trek 7.3fx as well. I preferred the Sirrus.

Don't ask me to quantify my response. The Sirrus just *felt* better to me. And to be honest- I lust after a whole bunch of different bikes, but the odds are when I finally get around to buying again- I'll probably end up with the Sirrus Sport simply because the LBS keeps them in stock (in my size). Bunch of other brands/models I've inquired about are either difficult to get or just plain sold out.
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Old 07-16-11 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by cyclebee
What do you enjoy most about it?
I'm a big fan of flat bar road bikes to begin with. I just like the position, the feel, whatever. I have several flat bar road bikes & enjoy them all, but I really enjoy the 'feel' of the Trek 7.5. It is more comfortable than my Marin (The Marin is faster). For my $, it's just been a great commuter. Also, it's been pretty bomb-proof. No real problems with it since I've had it.

I am a big Specialized fan though, so I'd definitely recommend test-riding the Sirrius as well.
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Old 07-17-11 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by cyclebee
The only issue is that there are some decent hills on my ride and I am concerned that a road bike would be geared too difficultly for them
For what its worth, a road triple front chainring setup will be geared almost exactly like a MTB/hybrid setup. My Raleigh road bike with a triple is actually EASIER to climb with than either my Specialized hybrid with a double or my Diamondback MTB with a triple.

I agree with the other posters, 15mile one way on a cheap hybrid? No thanks. My commute is 7 miles one way and my hybrid began to hurt me fairly quickly. Now that I have my road bike I am far more comfortable on long rides.

EDIT: Remember, you dont HAVE to use the drops all the time. All bars are flat on top, and with interrupter levers you wont even be away from the brakes.
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Old 07-17-11 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by robyr
For what its worth, a road triple front chainring setup will be geared almost exactly like a MTB/hybrid setup. My Raleigh road bike with a triple is actually EASIER to climb with than either my Specialized hybrid with a double or my Diamondback MTB with a triple.

I agree with the other posters, 15mile one way on a cheap hybrid? No thanks. My commute is 7 miles one way and my hybrid began to hurt me fairly quickly. Now that I have my road bike I am far more comfortable on long rides.

EDIT: Remember, you dont HAVE to use the drops all the time. All bars are flat on top, and with interrupter levers you wont even be away from the brakes.
This has alot to do w/geometry and weight distribution moreso than gear-inches. Loaded drop-bar touring bikes are designed to flatten those climbs. Dedicated roadies aren't designed to function well under load beyond a certain weight limit.

Agree 100%. Get a good ride as little equipment annoyances will mount up into big frustrations and you'll end up either quitting or spending more money to upgrade w/t combined cost of both bikes...been there, done that.

This is true of most modern road and CX bikes. The 'interrupter levers' are way better than the 'suicide levers' on the bike boom rbs of the 70s and 80s. They're cheap, effective and 'newbie' friendly. I've got a set on my commuter/utility bike and find myself using them much more than I thought I would.
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Old 07-17-11 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by nashcommguy
This has alot to do w/geometry and weight distribution moreso than gear-inches. Loaded drop-bar touring bikes are designed to flatten those climbs. Dedicated roadies aren't designed to function well under load beyond a certain weight limit.

Agree 100%. Get a good ride as little equipment annoyances will mount up into big frustrations and you'll end up either quitting or spending more money to upgrade w/t combined cost of both bikes...been there, done that.

This is true of most modern road and CX bikes. The 'interrupter levers' are way better than the 'suicide levers' on the bike boom rbs of the 70s and 80s. They're cheap, effective and 'newbie' friendly. I've got a set on my commuter/utility bike and find myself using them much more than I thought I would.
I agree with all of this. I never thought I'd use the interrupters the P/O had setup on my bike, but around town, its nice to be able to be upright while searching out a bar/restaurant in traffic and have quick access to the brakes in a situation.

Again, totally agree with the "buy right the first time". I bought a hybrid made for use on trails and recreation for my first bike, and the upkeep and nagging issues with the bike made for a very difficult commute and life for me. My bikes are my only form of transport, and without the advice from members here to check out some better suited bikes, I probably would have gotten frustrated and quit. Don't forget, if you try to ride a bike made for short trips and occasional recreational riding, you could cause some pretty serious problems with your health. Your wrists, back, and other body parts will tell you loudly that they are not happy, and it may be in the middle of a commute one day. My cargo bike was my daily commuter for the past few months, and the last weeks I started having major wrist pain, and that expedited my road bike purchase. I cannot afford to have injuries like that, after experiencing the incredibly long therapy period after I messed up my back a few years ago.

You have touched on another topic that is a big thing here. Road bikes are all different, not all road bikes are racing wonderbikes. Buying one of THOSE for a commute would be a bad idea. A touring frame or CX bike is the ticket. The lighter weight of a simple aluminum road bike with a more distance optimized geometry will really pay off on something like a 30+mile r/t route.
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