Clipless or Hopeless? (WARNING: LOOOOONG POST)
#1
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From: San Francisco, CA
Bikes: 1985(?) Giant RS920
Clipless or Hopeless? (WARNING: LOOOOONG POST)
My bike and I have been trying to take our relationship to the next level and we thought maybe some cages or clips would help improve our bond. About a month after we started this dialogue, I found some older SPD pedals (they look sort of like this) at a yard sale for $5 on my way to the bike shop that was having a 20% off sale. So, I ended up getting a pair of Shimano WR40s (I know, I know - they'll get dirty... but they were the prettiest ones on sale!). After a few falls, I finally decided we were ready for a non-practice ride, so we went downtown to meet some friends for dinner. I managed to ride there and back without falling, but my back feels a little tweaked and I think this is why:
- when I get going and I try to clip my other foot in, if I miss (which I pretty much did everytime) my foot slides off the pedal, pulling that side of my back with it... I repeated this exercise a few times and I'm definitely feeling it. Any pointers on how I can avoid this?
- otherwise, I'm looking down just to figure out if my foot is generally in the right spot and that can be a little tricky while going down these SF hills. Anything I can do different?
- I also discovered that I tend to lean on one side, which was why I was falling when I first tried it out - I was unclipping the side I wasn't leaning on - is this typical? is there a way to train my body so that I can be ambidextrous?
- I also read that the ball of my foot should be lined up with the center of the cleat, but even with the adjustment, the cleat just won't go that far out on the shoe.... the closest i can get is a litte higher than the middle of my foot... is this a flaw of my foot? are there other shoes i should consider?
should i give up and go back to regular pedals?
- when I get going and I try to clip my other foot in, if I miss (which I pretty much did everytime) my foot slides off the pedal, pulling that side of my back with it... I repeated this exercise a few times and I'm definitely feeling it. Any pointers on how I can avoid this?
- otherwise, I'm looking down just to figure out if my foot is generally in the right spot and that can be a little tricky while going down these SF hills. Anything I can do different?
- I also discovered that I tend to lean on one side, which was why I was falling when I first tried it out - I was unclipping the side I wasn't leaning on - is this typical? is there a way to train my body so that I can be ambidextrous?
- I also read that the ball of my foot should be lined up with the center of the cleat, but even with the adjustment, the cleat just won't go that far out on the shoe.... the closest i can get is a litte higher than the middle of my foot... is this a flaw of my foot? are there other shoes i should consider?
should i give up and go back to regular pedals?
#2
Most people fall at least once when they switch. Usually it's at very low speed, when they're trying to clip in or out. Hopefully with no one around to see! But clipping in and out are something you get used to very quickly. It's like riding a bike, in that you could read all the technique in the world and not learn a thing ... you just need to practice it, and your muscle memory will develop in no time.
I guess if you're worried, clip in before you get to a hill. There's always some flat ground, even if it means going directly across the street at 90 degrees to the hill.
I guess if you're worried, clip in before you get to a hill. There's always some flat ground, even if it means going directly across the street at 90 degrees to the hill.
#3
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From: Sioux Falls, SD
Bikes: '81 Panasonic Sport, '02 Giant Boulder SE, '08 Felt S32, '10 Diamondback Insight RS, '10 Windsor Clockwork, '15 Kestrel Evoke 3.0, '19 Salsa Mukluk
When I unclip, I exaggerate how far I stick my free leg out. It forces the bike to lean in that direction at the stop.
#4
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From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: Vision R40 - recumbent, Gunnar Crosshairs
I try to set my foot in the pedal and then apply the force necessary to clip in. From your description, it sounds like you're trying to kick your way into the pedal.
#5
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From: UK
I had that problem with road shoes - I find MTB shoes to be much more accommodating as they have some tread on which you can rest the pedal for a few revolutions if you fail to clip in - it also stops your foot sliding off the pedal too much if you fail to clip in. The only pair of road shoes I tried I sent back as I thought it was too dangerous with SPD pedals - with larger pedals they might be fine though. Go find a cheap pair of MTB shoes and marvel at the difference
#6
Ride the Santa Cruz Mtns!
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Bikes: Felt Curbside, Cervelo R3 Rival, Specialized Tarmac Pro SL4 Ultegra Di2
Don't give up on clipless. you'll be extra cautious in the beginning, but will pick it up fast, and then there's no turning back.
#7
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From: Beaverton, Oregon
Bikes: 2010 Specialized Sirrus Elite Disc
You could also try a set of Shimano SP56 cleats, which are multidirectional release, not just the normal heel out motion. This is assuming you're using SPD pedals.
#8
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From: Lincoln, NE
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I gave up on clipless pedals a few months ago, but that doesn't mean you have to. If you are determined to make it work I would think it will eventually end well. If not don't feel bad. =P
#9
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From: Los Angeles
Bikes: Bianchi Via Nirone 7, Jamis Sputnik
For the clipping in part.. don't stand up until your foot is clipped and you shouldn't have the back issue if you miss since no weight will be on your leg.. I once busted my tailbone on my saddle by missing the pedal. Hurt for a month.. That's when I learned to sit down while clipping, if I miss, I can rotate the pedal back around with the foot that's already clipped in and try again. Once it's in, stand up if you like. I've been riding clipless for a couple years now, and still miss from time to time.
This is probably worth trying too. I ride with SPD-SL now, with road shoes, but when I used to have regular SPD, the mountain shoes were easier to get clipped in.
I had that problem with road shoes - I find MTB shoes to be much more accommodating as they have some tread on which you can rest the pedal for a few revolutions if you fail to clip in - it also stops your foot sliding off the pedal too much if you fail to clip in. The only pair of road shoes I tried I sent back as I thought it was too dangerous with SPD pedals - with larger pedals they might be fine though. Go find a cheap pair of MTB shoes and marvel at the difference 

#10
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From: San Francisco, CA
Bikes: 1985(?) Giant RS920
i was wondering if that extra rubber on the sole of the mtn shoes helped to grip instead of slip... will certainly be easier walking after!
#11
Acts 2:38
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From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: '10 Marin Lucas Valley, '13 Scott Speedster 20
Make sure the cleats are positioned correctly for your foot placement and that the pedal tension is right. You should be able to get in and out easily enough without using an extraordinary amount of force while being able to pull up and not come out of the pedal accidentally.
I use the PD-M520L and I remember the stock tension being way too hard to get in and out of. If memory serves me correctly (and it probably doesn't), I backed 'em off maybe three turns each side.
I use the PD-M520L and I remember the stock tension being way too hard to get in and out of. If memory serves me correctly (and it probably doesn't), I backed 'em off maybe three turns each side.
Last edited by rex_kramer; 07-19-11 at 05:50 PM. Reason: Needed to add more info
#12
nashcommguy
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From: nashville, tn
Bikes: Commuters: Fuji Delray road, Fuji Discovery mtb...Touring: Softride Traveler...Road: C-dale SR300
The suggestion to use cleats that release both directions is a good one. What I've found is that road shoes are easier to use than mtb shoes because there is no tread to have to fit the cleat between. Other people's experiences may be different.
Just ran into this very problem when I bought a new pair of mtb shoes, recently. All of my bikes are equipped w/dual-sided clipless. The rb shoes clip into them all easily. The mtb shoes gave me a little trouble on a couple of my bikes. They clipped in ultimately, but needed a little coaxing.
Just ran into this very problem when I bought a new pair of mtb shoes, recently. All of my bikes are equipped w/dual-sided clipless. The rb shoes clip into them all easily. The mtb shoes gave me a little trouble on a couple of my bikes. They clipped in ultimately, but needed a little coaxing.
Last edited by nashcommguy; 07-19-11 at 06:50 PM.
#13
nashcommguy
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From: nashville, tn
Bikes: Commuters: Fuji Delray road, Fuji Discovery mtb...Touring: Softride Traveler...Road: C-dale SR300
To get 'cleat clearance' to not click when you walk in cycling specific shoes you would need to get touring shoes. Mtb shoes aren't designed for on/off bike pavement use. They're better than road shoes, though. But, touring shoes w/t proper sole thickness are the best for on/off bike use like when one is running errands, shopping, etc.
#16
Jesus, what's wrong with regular pedals? **** clipless, it's another level of complexity. but that's just my opinion. If you're really sold on it as a concept, the advice given here is good.
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Cyclists fare best when they recognize that there are times when acting vehicularly is not the best practice, and are flexible enough to do what is necessary as the situation warrants.--Me
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Cyclists fare best when they recognize that there are times when acting vehicularly is not the best practice, and are flexible enough to do what is necessary as the situation warrants.--Me
#17
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From: Los Angeles
Bikes: Bianchi Via Nirone 7, Jamis Sputnik
i'm seated and just putting my foot on the pedal to "feel" if the cleat is in the right position. when i'm wrong and it isn't, when i push down to lock it in place, that's when my foot slides off - the sliding off action of my foot actually extends my leg and my back and the repetition of that action on one side is what's got my back a little weird today (i think)
Honestly, clipless isn't that complex.. personally, I prefer it because it makes climbing and quick starting on a green light easier. If you're just cruising at a leisurely pace, or just prefer not to change shoes, then it's probably not worth it.
#18
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From: Sioux Falls, SD
Bikes: '81 Panasonic Sport, '02 Giant Boulder SE, '08 Felt S32, '10 Diamondback Insight RS, '10 Windsor Clockwork, '15 Kestrel Evoke 3.0, '19 Salsa Mukluk
I put the dual sided pedals on a few of my bikes. SPD on one side, platform on the other. That way if I don't feel like riding clipless, or want to run an errand without clomping around in bike shoes I have the option to go either way.
Some people have a serendipitous experience when they switch to clipless. Me, not so much. I like it for some things, dislike it for other. I certainly didn't gain much in the way of speed when I made the switch.
Some people have a serendipitous experience when they switch to clipless. Me, not so much. I like it for some things, dislike it for other. I certainly didn't gain much in the way of speed when I made the switch.
#19
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From: Riverside, CA
Bikes: Lynskey R230 DA DI2 ENVE 3.4 SES, 6KU Fixie, Cheap Aluminum Slapstick Trainer only bike
Switched about a week ago to spd.
Was using half toe and powergrip.
Since I can clip in without turning pedal and trying to squeeze my shoes in somehow, I find clipless faster more efficient experience. I have road shoe with spd and DZR spd casual looking shoes now. I can already clip in in a second for 80% of time. Sometimes a couple of seconds. I would assume the other 20% will come in time. It's still faster than powergrip or half toe clip though
Was using half toe and powergrip.
Since I can clip in without turning pedal and trying to squeeze my shoes in somehow, I find clipless faster more efficient experience. I have road shoe with spd and DZR spd casual looking shoes now. I can already clip in in a second for 80% of time. Sometimes a couple of seconds. I would assume the other 20% will come in time. It's still faster than powergrip or half toe clip though
#20
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From: East Metro Atlanta, GA, USA
Bikes: Giant Sedona (Mid 90's), Giant Seek 2, Greenspeed Anura
I see you've solved the issue but for future searches into the issue...:
+1 to mountain shoes. If you flat, you can walk. The rubber helps you pedal through the acceleration phase (if you miss clicking in); once you can coast without wobbling, take the time to click in neatly.
Also, I put my bike in a doorway, hopped into the saddle, and clicked in and out until I was really comfortable with how it felt. Then I felt that I was able to tackle the clicking in actual traffic situations.
+1 to mountain shoes. If you flat, you can walk. The rubber helps you pedal through the acceleration phase (if you miss clicking in); once you can coast without wobbling, take the time to click in neatly.
Also, I put my bike in a doorway, hopped into the saddle, and clicked in and out until I was really comfortable with how it felt. Then I felt that I was able to tackle the clicking in actual traffic situations.
#21
...same with those new-fangled, fancy pants electrical lights that consume those expensive "battery" thingamajigs, what the heck is wrong with tried and tested oil lanterns?.... sure, whale oil has become a little hard to come by lately but you can render down the fat from roadkill - it's free and readily available virtually anywhere.
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