bike specific gear
#1
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From: somewhere, over the sea
Bikes: 50s era Raliegh 3 speed
bike specific gear
I commute about 10 miles round trip, all year in Boston. I have no car so the bike is my only viable source of transportation except for the bus. I have been getting by with generic rain/winter clothing for the most part. I see people out in fancy stuff they have bought from the bike store and have wondered if there is much of an advantage to wearing that equipment. I don't have much money, so what would be a good first purchase to get a chance to try out the benefits of bike specific clothes.
#2
Only you can tell if it's a benefit for you, but I would say most of that stuff is mainly to impress other cyclist. I live in Atlanta where it's quite hot and humid in the summer, so in the summer I tend to wear biking shorts and a jersey because I can't bike naked (stupid public indecency laws). In the fall winter and spring I just wear ordinary clothes for the most part, in fall and spring shorts & a t-shirt, in winter wool trousers and a light sweater.
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The few, the proud, the likely insane, Metro-Atlanta bicycle commuters.
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#3
Plays in traffic
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,971
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: 1996 Litespeed Classic, 2006 Trek Portland, 2013 Ribble Winter/Audax, 2016 Giant Talon 4
I'm on the other side of the coin from bikebuddah.
After freezing through my first winter in "normal" clothes, cycling-specific winter wear was a profound revelation. There are two pieces of cool/cold/foul/winter wear I would not do without.
First is cycling specific jacket. They are tailored to fit when you're in a riding position. They have gorilla-length arms, the collars are higher, the front shorter and the back longer. Next, they're vented. Pit-zips are a wonderful thing. With the velcros, I can also brace the wrists open for cooling airflow. And of course, they come in hi-vis with reflective bits. I'm in my fourth year with an Endura Gridlock commuter jacket. (Mens, Womens) Especially when purchased online, it's considerably less expensive than most cycling jackets, and I've found it plenty durable (I've also fallen in it twice).
Second is tights. I have a 'tween seasons pair (Endura Thermolite Pro) and a winter pair (Pearl Izumi AmFib). First, only buy tights that are wind-front or wind resistant. Others simply filter the breeze on the way through. I like tights because they don't bunch behind the knee or in the crotch. They don't bind in front of the knee or at the hip. They don't flap in the wind and they don't get caught on anything. They keep me warm and dry too.
I prefer unpadded tights, wearing cycling shorts underneath. This saves me from having to wash them daily. I also prefer bib tights so that I don't have a second elastic waistband squeezing my middle.
Gloves, shoes and headwear I think there's less of a need for cycling-specific (however the cycling-specific stuff is nice to have, IMHO). But I won't give up my jacket or tights.
After freezing through my first winter in "normal" clothes, cycling-specific winter wear was a profound revelation. There are two pieces of cool/cold/foul/winter wear I would not do without.
First is cycling specific jacket. They are tailored to fit when you're in a riding position. They have gorilla-length arms, the collars are higher, the front shorter and the back longer. Next, they're vented. Pit-zips are a wonderful thing. With the velcros, I can also brace the wrists open for cooling airflow. And of course, they come in hi-vis with reflective bits. I'm in my fourth year with an Endura Gridlock commuter jacket. (Mens, Womens) Especially when purchased online, it's considerably less expensive than most cycling jackets, and I've found it plenty durable (I've also fallen in it twice).
Second is tights. I have a 'tween seasons pair (Endura Thermolite Pro) and a winter pair (Pearl Izumi AmFib). First, only buy tights that are wind-front or wind resistant. Others simply filter the breeze on the way through. I like tights because they don't bunch behind the knee or in the crotch. They don't bind in front of the knee or at the hip. They don't flap in the wind and they don't get caught on anything. They keep me warm and dry too.
I prefer unpadded tights, wearing cycling shorts underneath. This saves me from having to wash them daily. I also prefer bib tights so that I don't have a second elastic waistband squeezing my middle.
Gloves, shoes and headwear I think there's less of a need for cycling-specific (however the cycling-specific stuff is nice to have, IMHO). But I won't give up my jacket or tights.
Last edited by tsl; 09-12-11 at 10:17 AM.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 230
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From: State College PA
Bikes: Cannondale T2000, Dean el Diente
Most days I never see another cyclist on my route, so if I'm wearing what I'm wearing to impress other cyclists, I'm doing a really bad job of it. I thought I was doing it for practical reasons - bright colors improve visibility, wicking material is more comfortable when you're sweating, tight-fitting clothes improve aerodynamics.
Tsl makes some good points, and I'll add a low-budget perspective. You could start out with some of the cheaper shorts and jerseys at Nashbar - they might not fit as well or last as long as the pricier stuff, but they'll give you an idea what it feels like. In colder weather, you can supplement with tights and a thermal undershirt. I got my tights at Goodwill and my undershirts at Sierra Trading post for less than $5 per item. A windbreaker/shell makes a huge difference when it's cold, as does a balaclava, even a lightweight one.
If you'd prefer to stay away from cycling-specific clothes for whatever reason, I'd still make two suggestions. First, funkiness can be pretty much eliminated by riding in freshly-laundered clothes on a freshly-showered body, and then changing into different clothes when you get where you're going. Second, avoid cotton (for your riding clothes) at all costs. Doesn't wick, and doesn't insulate after it gets damp. If you want natural fabrics go with wool or silk.
Tsl makes some good points, and I'll add a low-budget perspective. You could start out with some of the cheaper shorts and jerseys at Nashbar - they might not fit as well or last as long as the pricier stuff, but they'll give you an idea what it feels like. In colder weather, you can supplement with tights and a thermal undershirt. I got my tights at Goodwill and my undershirts at Sierra Trading post for less than $5 per item. A windbreaker/shell makes a huge difference when it's cold, as does a balaclava, even a lightweight one.
If you'd prefer to stay away from cycling-specific clothes for whatever reason, I'd still make two suggestions. First, funkiness can be pretty much eliminated by riding in freshly-laundered clothes on a freshly-showered body, and then changing into different clothes when you get where you're going. Second, avoid cotton (for your riding clothes) at all costs. Doesn't wick, and doesn't insulate after it gets damp. If you want natural fabrics go with wool or silk.
#5
That said, if you want to find out for yourself, the first bike clothing you purchase should come from a thrift store, and should cost about $5 but not more than $10.
#6
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Joined: Apr 2010
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I like to buy nice quality outdoor specific wear, but not bike-specific stuff. For my uses, regular outdoor gear works best. Cycling specific stuff is good if you are using it just for cycling (except gloves-cycling specific winter gloves suck in my experience). If you're looking for one piece to start with, I'd say that a nice windproof jacket would be my first pick (assuming you already haveany kind of winter hat, gloves & shoes). Second would be a balaclva. I use a Mountain Hardwear Windstopper Tech Jacket when it's really cold (although take my recommendations with a grain of salt, I don't ride once it snows) It's windproof, so it allows me to keep very warm with regular layers underneath. It has pit vents so I can regulate heat, and it's not too expensive (you can find them for $100 if you look). Along with regular winter gloves (Just those thicker ones that you'd get at any department store), a hat, balaclava & windproof shoes (I wear goretex nike running shoes but anything that blocks the wind will work for a lot of commutes), and I can stay warm enough for most temps that I will ever experience (Cleveland).
#7
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Joined: Feb 2001
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From: England
2 x 5 miles is on the borderline for cycle-specific clothing. Personally, most of my cycle commuting clothes are general purpose hiking gear. My jacket is multi-activity so has a suitable cut and features. I managed for years quite comfortably with fairly low-priced gear. My luxury items are high quality merino wool T shirts.
Cycling waterproofs are never really breathable enough. You may be better off with a good windproof + a waterproof. I find that waterproof pants are essential in the winter, a cycling cut is good but the material doesnt have to be a high grade as a jacket.
The priorities for me would be:
Merino base layer
Good windproof and/or waterproof shell.
Footwear (lightweight, waterproof, not cycle specific)
Gloves.
Good full-length fenders on the bike are assumed.
Cycling waterproofs are never really breathable enough. You may be better off with a good windproof + a waterproof. I find that waterproof pants are essential in the winter, a cycling cut is good but the material doesnt have to be a high grade as a jacket.
The priorities for me would be:
Merino base layer
Good windproof and/or waterproof shell.
Footwear (lightweight, waterproof, not cycle specific)
Gloves.
Good full-length fenders on the bike are assumed.
#8
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8,896
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From: Raleigh, NC
Bikes: Waterford RST-22, Bob Jackson World Tour, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Soma Saga, De Bernardi SL, Specialized Sequoia
I wear cycling-specific clothing and gear almost exclusively. Very few people wear cycling clothes to impress other because, quite frankly, it looks goofy to almost everyone. They wear cycling clothes because they work -- they fit better, are more comfortable, breathe better, dry out quicker and last a long time.
The downsides to cycling clothing are that it can be expensive, sizing is very inconsistent among brands and even within the same brands ... and it looks goofy to most people. You can save money by buying cycling clothes while they are on sale, during off-season (eg, winter jackets in late spring, summer), on eBay/Craigslist and other on-line sites. Sizing can be an issue if you buy on-line, so I tend to buy only brands that I am familiar with on-line unless the site has good return policies. For example, Voler provides free postage-paid mailers to return their clothes if they don't fit.
Most cycling clothes are very well made and last a long time. You also can readily sell used gear on eBay/Craigslist if in good condition. I have lost 30 lbs since last December and recently sold about $200 worth of old jerseys and shorts that no longer fit me on eBay. Likewise, I have selectively bought used clothing on eBay as long as they appear to be lightly used and in very good condition.
The downsides to cycling clothing are that it can be expensive, sizing is very inconsistent among brands and even within the same brands ... and it looks goofy to most people. You can save money by buying cycling clothes while they are on sale, during off-season (eg, winter jackets in late spring, summer), on eBay/Craigslist and other on-line sites. Sizing can be an issue if you buy on-line, so I tend to buy only brands that I am familiar with on-line unless the site has good return policies. For example, Voler provides free postage-paid mailers to return their clothes if they don't fit.
Most cycling clothes are very well made and last a long time. You also can readily sell used gear on eBay/Craigslist if in good condition. I have lost 30 lbs since last December and recently sold about $200 worth of old jerseys and shorts that no longer fit me on eBay. Likewise, I have selectively bought used clothing on eBay as long as they appear to be lightly used and in very good condition.
#9
Vain, But Lacking Talent
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 5,510
Likes: 81
From: Denton, TX
Bikes: Trek Domane 5.9 DA 9000, Trek Crockett Pink Frosting w/105 5700
2 x 5 miles is on the borderline for cycle-specific clothing. Personally, most of my cycle commuting clothes are general purpose hiking gear. My jacket is multi-activity so has a suitable cut and features. I managed for years quite comfortably with fairly low-priced gear. My luxury items are high quality merino wool T shirts.
Cycling waterproofs are never really breathable enough. You may be better off with a good windproof + a waterproof. I find that waterproof pants are essential in the winter, a cycling cut is good but the material doesnt have to be a high grade as a jacket.
The priorities for me would be:
Merino base layer
Good windproof and/or waterproof shell.
Footwear (lightweight, waterproof, not cycle specific)
Gloves.
Good full-length fenders on the bike are assumed.
Cycling waterproofs are never really breathable enough. You may be better off with a good windproof + a waterproof. I find that waterproof pants are essential in the winter, a cycling cut is good but the material doesnt have to be a high grade as a jacket.
The priorities for me would be:
Merino base layer
Good windproof and/or waterproof shell.
Footwear (lightweight, waterproof, not cycle specific)
Gloves.
Good full-length fenders on the bike are assumed.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 209
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Another vote for outdoor/technical clothing, though not necessarily bike specific.
I commute 3 miles each each way in normal work clothes, often with a merino T underneath, and Under Armor shorts instead of cotton.
The advice on layering is also very good. On cool mornings a light shell over my regular clothes works fine. I have a merino sweater/jacket that i can wear down to 40 or so, and putting the shell over that gets me down to 30 easily. At that point, ear, foot and hand warmth are a bigger issue than core warmth.
However, on weekend fun rides where I may ride 30 miles or so, I really like bike shorts for comfort, though I wear shirts that are a bit looser than a traditional jersey. More out of consideration for those who have to look at me than anything else!
I commute 3 miles each each way in normal work clothes, often with a merino T underneath, and Under Armor shorts instead of cotton.
The advice on layering is also very good. On cool mornings a light shell over my regular clothes works fine. I have a merino sweater/jacket that i can wear down to 40 or so, and putting the shell over that gets me down to 30 easily. At that point, ear, foot and hand warmth are a bigger issue than core warmth.
However, on weekend fun rides where I may ride 30 miles or so, I really like bike shorts for comfort, though I wear shirts that are a bit looser than a traditional jersey. More out of consideration for those who have to look at me than anything else!
#11
I add a layer for about every 10 degrees below 60F down to the teens. On the coldest days, I have two pairs of shorts, tights and a thermal layer on my legs, 4-5 layers on my body with outer shell, double gloves, etc. If you put in a good effort, even on cold days you'll sweat a bit, and on hot days, get soaked. In heavier rain or snow, you'll get wet no matter what you do.
So, the main feature of bike specific clothes is they stretch to allow for layering and do a pretty good job wicking moisture, which helps in retaining heat. They also dry faster during the day at work so you're not putting back on wet clothes.
So, the main feature of bike specific clothes is they stretch to allow for layering and do a pretty good job wicking moisture, which helps in retaining heat. They also dry faster during the day at work so you're not putting back on wet clothes.
#12
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Lexington, KY
Bikes: Surly Cross Check, Surly Long Haul Trucker, Trek FX 7.2
If I only have a mile or two to travel, I can wear anything. But if I'm traveling farther, by about a couple of miles my body temperature starts to climb and that's when it's really nice to be wearing something that can wick and breathe. For this purpose it doesn't have to be biking specific. Inexpensive sportswear can be found at just about any department/big box store. In the heat of summer I often wear sportswear I bought at Target.
For the rain I have Pearl Izumi rain gear. It's breathable (sort of) and serves a decent wind barrier when the temperature drops.
I do prefer the bright colors of cycling clothes. I really couldn't care less what people think of it when they see it, what matters to me is that they CAN see it.
For the rain I have Pearl Izumi rain gear. It's breathable (sort of) and serves a decent wind barrier when the temperature drops.
I do prefer the bright colors of cycling clothes. I really couldn't care less what people think of it when they see it, what matters to me is that they CAN see it.
#13
Since a bike is your only form of transportation, I'm assuming it's not always practical to change once you get to your destination. That limits the appeal of cycling specific clothes somewhat.
The general rules for cold weather still apply whether you wear cycling gear or not:
1. Base layer (Target Champion series or whatever)
2. Warmth layer (Fleece is a good option)
3. Outer layer (something light, wind proof and water resistant).
Wool is a good wet/cold weather choice. Cotton is not.
Running and/or XC skiing gear can work well for cycling too. I was fortunate enough to pick up a "Running Room" jacket at a thrift store for $10. It has the longer back, pit zips, and short front just like a cycling jacket along with some reflective bits. Just wish it had some pockets.
If you get lucky you might some cycling stuff at a thrift store. You can also try going to garage sales in affluent neighborhoods.
Craigslist can also work well but Ebay is risky from a sizing standpoint.
For some less expensive cycling gear you can also try Velowear: https://www.voler.com. Click on their sale tab. The make jerseys and what not for teams and sell the leftovers at a discount. If you're looking for something subdued it's probably not the best choice. There's also not a ton of winter clothing but they do have a few jackets.
The general rules for cold weather still apply whether you wear cycling gear or not:
1. Base layer (Target Champion series or whatever)
2. Warmth layer (Fleece is a good option)
3. Outer layer (something light, wind proof and water resistant).
Wool is a good wet/cold weather choice. Cotton is not.
Running and/or XC skiing gear can work well for cycling too. I was fortunate enough to pick up a "Running Room" jacket at a thrift store for $10. It has the longer back, pit zips, and short front just like a cycling jacket along with some reflective bits. Just wish it had some pockets.
If you get lucky you might some cycling stuff at a thrift store. You can also try going to garage sales in affluent neighborhoods.

Craigslist can also work well but Ebay is risky from a sizing standpoint.
For some less expensive cycling gear you can also try Velowear: https://www.voler.com. Click on their sale tab. The make jerseys and what not for teams and sell the leftovers at a discount. If you're looking for something subdued it's probably not the best choice. There's also not a ton of winter clothing but they do have a few jackets.
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 14,277
Likes: 3
Cycling specific gear has nothing to do with impressing other cyclists. Wtf?
It does make a difference if you have a long commute.
At 10 miles I would stick to whatever works. If normal clothes are fine then go with it. If an issue develops then find a solution to it.
Cold? Add a wool or synthetic top, throw on some tights, etc.
It does make a difference if you have a long commute.
At 10 miles I would stick to whatever works. If normal clothes are fine then go with it. If an issue develops then find a solution to it.
Cold? Add a wool or synthetic top, throw on some tights, etc.
#15
The space coyote lied.



Joined: Sep 2008
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From: dusk 'til dawn.
Bikes: everywhere
I wear a Marmot shell I got for $70, not as nice as the Helly Hansen that I ripped in a crash, but gets the job done. I've had more expensive cycling jackets and the only benefit to me was that the arms flap less in the wind. Not worth the extra dough to me.
Nashbar polypro tights for below 40° is the only bit of cycle-specific gear I wear for commutes and only a few days a year.
Nashbar polypro tights for below 40° is the only bit of cycle-specific gear I wear for commutes and only a few days a year.
#16
I need a better winter jacket for cycling. My current one isn't vented, but cycling (or hiking) wool socks are great. Tights are nice. I like to just slip a liner glove under my regular gloves, and balaclavas are really good.
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Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
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#17
I ride 10 miles each way. If I ride in jeans and cotton briefs, I get nasty chafing in places you never want to chafe. So I wear bike shorts. I also sweat a lot when I'm riding, even in cold weather, so I wear quick-dry, non-cotton shirts. For commuting I prefer loose fitting, usually non-cycling-spefic shirts. For other cycling activities I have tight-fitting cycling jerseys. Both shorts and shirts are also better than my "normal" clothes for riding in the rain. I wear MTB shoes with cleats so I can clip into my pedals and not worry about my feet slipping off.
As a first cycling-specific purchase, regardless of the length of your typical ride, I would definitely go with a low-invisibility yellow cycling jacket. On a clear day, these things are visible from two miles away and they almost always indicate there's a cyclist on the road. Even at night a jacket like this is more visible than most other clothing. A bright read shirt, for instance, looks fairly black at night, but a day-glow yellow jacket looks yellow. Most cycling jackets also have reflective details that light up in a car's headlights.
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#18
Senior Member

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 465
Likes: 4
From: København
Bikes: Kinesisbikes UK Racelight Tk
I commute about 10 miles round trip, all year in Boston. I have no car so the bike is my only viable source of transportation except for the bus. I have been getting by with generic rain/winter clothing for the most part. I see people out in fancy stuff they have bought from the bike store and have wondered if there is much of an advantage to wearing that equipment. I don't have much money, so what would be a good first purchase to get a chance to try out the benefits of bike specific clothes.
To get some benefit at a low price, try layered dressing with some kind of wicking layer underneath it all. That works very well against getting sweaty and cold. I use a (non-bicycle specific) 100% pure merino wool wicking layer: they are anti-bacterial and only needs air-drying most of the time to stay fresh. A couple in rotation will last a long time before they need washing.
Thrift store Merino wool or Cashmere sweaters also works well as a middle layer. They don't stop wind as well as bicycle jerseys, so often they work best as a middle layer. Wool can absorb a lot of water (sweat/rain) before feeling "wet" and clammy, so they will keep you warm even if you get wet.
Some bicycle wind breakers can pack so small that they are easy to carry around, so if you suddenly run into high wind or rain, or falling temperatures, you can quickly "upgrade" your layers to cope with the changing weather.
Bicycle tights /bibs are very comfortable, but the padding requires a high degree of hygiene, so frequent washing is required, and more than one pair is highly desirable for commuters. In the winter or on cold rain, I use my regular short legged bibs toegether with a semi-water and wind repellent pair of long winter tights /without/ padding. That way I can use my cheap bibs in rotation, and get by with just one pair of long winter tights that rarely needs washing because it doesn't have padding.
There is a lot to save when buying on sales; I bought most of my winter bicycle clothes in summer sales, and my summer clothing in winter sales.
I bought one of my winter jackets at full price, but it has served me well for many years now.
A wool "Buff" is a versatile piece of winter equipment, and a regular cycling cap helps to keep the rain and snow out of my eyes.
To sum up; use layered clothing https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Layered_clothing
Start with a wicking layer.
Wool is nice choice for winter commuters.
Buy smart.
Bicycle clothes, and the amount of layers you want, is highly personal; what works for me, may not work for you.
I used to dread cycling in miserable weather, but in my bicycle clothes I just smile at the rain and snow.
--
Regards
#19
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,834
Likes: 0
From: Minneapolis, MN
Bikes: 05 Trek 5200, 07 Trek 520, 99 GT Karakoram, 08 Surly 1X1
I commute about 10 miles round trip, all year in Boston. I have no car so the bike is my only viable source of transportation except for the bus. I have been getting by with generic rain/winter clothing for the most part. I see people out in fancy stuff they have bought from the bike store and have wondered if there is much of an advantage to wearing that equipment. I don't have much money, so what would be a good first purchase to get a chance to try out the benefits of bike specific clothes.
If you're not overheating and not freezing, I'd save your money. Otherwise, there are some good suggestions here. Personally, I couldn't do 10 miles in normal clothes. Everyone's different.
#20
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,536
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From: central ohio
Bikes: 96 gary fisher 'utopia' : 99 Softride 'Norwester'(for sale), 1972 Raleigh Twenty. Surly 1x1 converted to 1x8, 96 Turner Burner
A good first purchase would be the best jacket that you could afford. I don't know what your budget would be. But I would just take my time and search around for a jacket that would suit you. And then each year, or whatever, keep adding new gear. After awhile you'll have everything you need.
#21
Senior Member


Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,919
Likes: 1,260
Not owning a car is perhaps the second biggest supersaver tip there is. The first is avoiding fast food and prepared food establishments. The car free or car lite cyclist can spend a little money on bike shorts, surely. If one wanted just one item of bike specific clothing I think that would be it. I don't find a lot of difference between runners tights and non-chamois bike tights. I'll get whichever is cheaper. Usually those are the runners tights. I wear runners long sleeve tops and the New Balance brand have IMO just as much 'tail' as some bike specific designs. I have a J&G Cyclewear jacket but it is urethane coated nylon and even with pit zips wide open it is a sauna. I also have cycling specific shoes: Shimano MT41's without SPD cleats mounted. My attachment system of choice are PowerGrips. If I can get this stuff with my (lack of) income, anyone can. Provided they are car lite (or free) and make the lion's share of their meals at home.
H
H
#22
One time I was commuting home in jeans and they ripped in the butt... big hole with my boxers showing
So I dunno I think that is a pretty good reason to commute in bike specific shorts. The material is made to withstand the saddle friction more than cotton would.
So I dunno I think that is a pretty good reason to commute in bike specific shorts. The material is made to withstand the saddle friction more than cotton would.
#23
nashcommguy
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,499
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From: nashville, tn
Bikes: Commuters: Fuji Delray road, Fuji Discovery mtb...Touring: Softride Traveler...Road: C-dale SR300
I commute about 10 miles round trip, all year in Boston. I have no car so the bike is my only viable source of transportation except for the bus. I have been getting by with generic rain/winter clothing for the most part. I see people out in fancy stuff they have bought from the bike store and have wondered if there is much of an advantage to wearing that equipment. I don't have much money, so what would be a good first purchase to get a chance to try out the benefits of bike specific clothes.
https://www.sierratradingpost.com
https://www.nashbar.com
https://aerotechdesign.com
Purchase online and out of season as much as possible. Wear wool baselayers...100%. 100% silk is good, too. STP always has good deals on silk baselayers. No blends. Cashmere if you can find it. Haunt thriftstores. Do layering. 3 at the most. Get an upper and lower body 'windstopper' jacket and pants or tights. WSD as the cut is different. Ask other female cyclists you spot where they got their stuff. Wear mittens in real cold weather.
AFA 'the bikebuddha post' I can only say there's a sizeable difference in latitude that would render the perspective expressed irrelevant.

Cycling specific gear can be pricey, but w/craigslist, thriftstores, yardsales and a good eye one can save hundreds if not thousands of dollars in clothing investment for commuting. Alot of climbing gear is transferrable as well as cross-country skiing and hiking stuff. Patience is the key. Stuff will turn up for you.
#24
The best thing I bought that was cycling-specific was the log house designs rain cape, I found myself overheating in rainsuits but the cape's open bottom gives a nice cooling effect. I use galoshes to keep my feet dry. The rain cape came from campmor.com and the galoshes were sold locally and way cheaper than the cycling-specific booties, but they can get hot in summer, but I just wear sandals or crocs in the rainy heat.
I have some wool longjohns and they work really well as a baselayer or by themselves as tights in moderately cool weather. I like any expensive stuff I buy to be multi-use. I have had good experience using a wool sweather (thrift shop style) underneath a windbreaker for the early winter when mornings are cold but the days can get warm. I bought a cycling windbreaker 'cos I had a big ass crack problem and it was pretty cheap.
In the winter months I wear large winter boots that come up near the knee.. I never get cold or wet feet. BMX pedals are great too, they keep the feet planted and allow the use of a wide range of shoes. If it's slushy out in the winter I just have a cheap pair of slush/splash pants to keep me dry. My winter coat is a heavy construction coat so it's high-vis but they're really expensive if you have to buy them, I got mine from an employer.
I do love my bike shorts for anything over 20 or 30km, but they are nice to have all the time if you can change easily enough at work. I don't put them on when I'm on short or social rides though.
I have some wool longjohns and they work really well as a baselayer or by themselves as tights in moderately cool weather. I like any expensive stuff I buy to be multi-use. I have had good experience using a wool sweather (thrift shop style) underneath a windbreaker for the early winter when mornings are cold but the days can get warm. I bought a cycling windbreaker 'cos I had a big ass crack problem and it was pretty cheap.
In the winter months I wear large winter boots that come up near the knee.. I never get cold or wet feet. BMX pedals are great too, they keep the feet planted and allow the use of a wide range of shoes. If it's slushy out in the winter I just have a cheap pair of slush/splash pants to keep me dry. My winter coat is a heavy construction coat so it's high-vis but they're really expensive if you have to buy them, I got mine from an employer.
I do love my bike shorts for anything over 20 or 30km, but they are nice to have all the time if you can change easily enough at work. I don't put them on when I'm on short or social rides though.
#25
just ride

Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia
I'm with the crowd that says for your commute you don't need anything bike specific. Better to spend your money on general purpose outdoor clothing that you can use for your life off the bike as well as on.
If you absolutely must have something bike specific I recommed a goretex helmet cover- not cheap -but I think available below MSRP on line.
https://www.gorebikewear.com/remote/S...1208436871979A
I hit the road at 5AM for a 9 mile bike commute to the train. That means pretty much hopping out of the shower and onto the bike with a wet head. Below 25 degrees I use the helmet cover and it makes a world of difference. Also keep it in my bag in the summer to stay a little drier in those downpours.
If you absolutely must have something bike specific I recommed a goretex helmet cover- not cheap -but I think available below MSRP on line.
https://www.gorebikewear.com/remote/S...1208436871979A
I hit the road at 5AM for a 9 mile bike commute to the train. That means pretty much hopping out of the shower and onto the bike with a wet head. Below 25 degrees I use the helmet cover and it makes a world of difference. Also keep it in my bag in the summer to stay a little drier in those downpours.





