Savings by Commuting
#51
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,454
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From: Virginia/DC
Bikes: quite a few
FWIW many moons ago, I made a detailed spreadsheet of various commuting methods specifically for my commute, including mixed mode commutes, and I also rated each on exercise, robustness (in case of storms, bad weather, etc) and reliability (how often the commute would be disrupted, whether by traffic, train delays, flat tire) as well as total trip time. Of the 20 or so options I examined, cycling was clearly the cheapest, coming out at 37c/day (rate is based on basic tire/tube/lube replacement). Driving came out at $2.34, but was the fastest and also the most robust and reliable, and did not include maintenance/insurance etc because I own the car and drive other places than work anyway. (One of the slowest and most expensive was to drive to the metro station, park, and then ride the train - which is what I did for years! The very slowest was to walk 3 blocks to the bus stop and transfer to the train station)
I come to the office only ~200 days in a year, so $400 isn't a great saving over a full year in my book. I can easily blow that on cycling parts and gear in a year, especially across 3 bikes. Also I do extra sets of laundry every week for my cycling gear. Detergent ain't cheap.
Nope! That's how we become addicts
I come to the office only ~200 days in a year, so $400 isn't a great saving over a full year in my book. I can easily blow that on cycling parts and gear in a year, especially across 3 bikes. Also I do extra sets of laundry every week for my cycling gear. Detergent ain't cheap.
#52
So my wife has a hard time believing that we will be saving money by me commuting. She is an accountant type person... you know the type. Yikes.
Anyway, I plan to start commuting next Monday and have invested to turn my mtn bike to a commuter. Regardless of what I spent, I want to find out how much I will save by commuting by bike.
So.... I currently drive a toyota tacoma 4 wheel v6 and get about 18 miles to the gallon (avergae between city and highway) and gas is around $3.25 give or take. I drive 22 miles round trip so I know gas will cost me .18 cents a mile which is $3.96 for gas.
But figuring out the other stuff.... tires, wear nad tear, ect. I have no clue.
She gets the health benefits but wants hard facts on savings.
Any ideas?
Anyway, I plan to start commuting next Monday and have invested to turn my mtn bike to a commuter. Regardless of what I spent, I want to find out how much I will save by commuting by bike.
So.... I currently drive a toyota tacoma 4 wheel v6 and get about 18 miles to the gallon (avergae between city and highway) and gas is around $3.25 give or take. I drive 22 miles round trip so I know gas will cost me .18 cents a mile which is $3.96 for gas.
But figuring out the other stuff.... tires, wear nad tear, ect. I have no clue.
She gets the health benefits but wants hard facts on savings.
Any ideas?
#53
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8,896
Likes: 7
From: Raleigh, NC
Bikes: Waterford RST-22, Bob Jackson World Tour, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Soma Saga, De Bernardi SL, Specialized Sequoia
Just use 50 cents/mile to calculate driving costs. That's what the federal government pays for reimbursement and it includes gas as well as maintenance, wear-and-tear. If you have to pay for parking when you drive, you can add that as well.
I know that I save money bike commuting, even though I spend a fair amount of those savings on bike gear. However, I would rather spend my money on bike gear than gasoline and car costs. If you don't buy a lot of unnecessary bike gear, you can save quite a bit. Here are examples:
-- Gasoline and maintenance savings @ 50 cents/mile
-- Parking
-- Insurance (my company reduced my rate $50/year when I showed my mileage reductions)
I also tend to spend extra money when I drive because I more frequently go out to lunch, go shopping during lunch hour. If I sold my truck, my savings would be huge but I don't want to do that. I like having the option to drive when weather is crappy, doctor's appointments, restocking clothes and supplies in my office, bringing home laundry from work, etc.
My commute was 22 miles for 4.5 years but increased to 30 miles in October. We got our gasoline bill the other day and it totalled about $250 for the month, and all of the charges were for my wife's car. I showed her the bill and said: "Look how much money I'm saving us by riding to work. Not a single one of these gas charges were for my truck." Of course, I turned around and spent $125 on a new light system, but that should last me a long time and I can recoup some of those costs by selling my old one.
I know that I save money bike commuting, even though I spend a fair amount of those savings on bike gear. However, I would rather spend my money on bike gear than gasoline and car costs. If you don't buy a lot of unnecessary bike gear, you can save quite a bit. Here are examples:
-- Gasoline and maintenance savings @ 50 cents/mile
-- Parking
-- Insurance (my company reduced my rate $50/year when I showed my mileage reductions)
I also tend to spend extra money when I drive because I more frequently go out to lunch, go shopping during lunch hour. If I sold my truck, my savings would be huge but I don't want to do that. I like having the option to drive when weather is crappy, doctor's appointments, restocking clothes and supplies in my office, bringing home laundry from work, etc.
My commute was 22 miles for 4.5 years but increased to 30 miles in October. We got our gasoline bill the other day and it totalled about $250 for the month, and all of the charges were for my wife's car. I showed her the bill and said: "Look how much money I'm saving us by riding to work. Not a single one of these gas charges were for my truck." Of course, I turned around and spent $125 on a new light system, but that should last me a long time and I can recoup some of those costs by selling my old one.
#54
Descends like a rock
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4,034
Likes: 16
From: Fort Worth, TX
Bikes: Scott Foil, Surly Pacer
#55
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8,896
Likes: 7
From: Raleigh, NC
Bikes: Waterford RST-22, Bob Jackson World Tour, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Soma Saga, De Bernardi SL, Specialized Sequoia
Here's a pretty good calculator for commuting costs. Plugging in your numbers and assuming a 3 day per week commuting schedule, you save $170/month or $2042/year.
#56
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 111
From: North of Boston
Bikes: Kona Dawg, Surly 1x1, Karate Monkey, Rockhopper, Crosscheck , Burley Runabout,
Ride, feel happy. More energy, not stressed in stop and go cager traffic. No contest. Whats the price of awesome legs and a normal sized waist? What is the price of my commute when I take the mountain bike and get 8 miles of dirt and 12 of pavement?
#57
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.

Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 13,863
Likes: 6
From: Washington, DC
Bikes: Some bikes. Hell, they're all the same, ain't they?
Being Mr Cheerful, if things do turn nasty in the Middle East and Iran starts playing silly games with Suez or Hormuz the price of gas will jump, which not only means you save even more money but also potentially means you're the guy who still turns up for work while everyone else is stuck because they can't get gas for their cars.
if all your other coworkers can't show up, you're going to be stuck doing all of their jobs in the meantime and will never get back home.
#58
that said, i see you're in jersey as well - i know my EZ-pass bill is well into the triple digits per month, any tolls you're saving by biking? without tolls, the savings is quite minor by taking the bike, especially if you're buying a lot of cool bike gear more often.
#59
2 Fat 2 Furious
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,996
Likes: 2
From: England
Bikes: 2009 Specialized Rockhopper Comp Disc, 2009 Specialized Tricross Sport RIP
Up to a point, but if the company looks to start letting people go the chances are the one guy who can get in no matter what isn't going to be at the top of the hit-list.
#60
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 1
From: Springfield, MA
Bikes: 2012 Motobecane Fantom CXX, 2012 Motobecane Fantom CX, 1997 Bianchi Nyala, 200? Burley Rock 'n Roll
My wife and I have usually had two cars, but we have saved money on cars by keeping cars much longer than we would have otherwise. This has partly been due to lowered mileage/maintenance, but the greater part is that I am willing to own a much junkier 2nd car since I rarely need it to depend on it get to work. If we absolutely always needed it to be reliable, I would definitely own a nicer one instead. Therefore, we have gone pretty long stretches with no car payment at all. Right now we have a paid off 2008 and hope (knock on wood) to get a couple more years out of our 1998 minivan. We got the van for cheap in the first place partly because it had a lot of miles on it. Insurance is relatively low on that one because it isn't worth much (it's relative because auto insurance here is pretty expensive no matter what). In case no one else has mentioned it, you could see if there is a low-mileage discount for auto insurance.
Jim S.
Jim S.
#62
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 591
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From: Long Beach, Ca.
Bikes: Raleigh Sojourn, '67 Raleigh Super Course, old Gary Fisher Mamba, and a generic Chinese folder
If you can get rid of a car, the savings will be obvious. Beyond that, there are the hard to define savings. Like less hospital/doctor visits, gyn nenbership no longer being necessary, oil changes and major vehicle repairs that will be fewer and faerther between (or eliminated if the second car goes), and the mental health benefits.
#63
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,965
Likes: 6
From: Falls City, OR
Bikes: 2012 Salsa Fargo 2, Rocky Mountain Fusion, circa '93
If you want to save money it helps to start with a stupidly long commute: mine is 48 miles one way. Then discover the local commuter buses (pass = $55/mo.) and ride the 9 miles to the nearest bus stop and back home from there. Longer rides home are optional -- just get off of the bus sooner.
Then discover that your employer will buy the bus pass for you, saving you that additional $55/mo. Wow. I'm commuting a hundred miles per day for free. I saved enough in gas money to buy a new Fargo (so much for free!) and that's considering that my main motor vehicle is an old, paid for BMW motorcycle that gets 45 mpg and only costs $175/year to insure. Parts $ sure add up quickly but it doesn't need much.
I have also pretty much quit running, so I no longer need to buy $$$ shoes every few months.
I don't want to move (the more obvious solution to the long commute) because I live in the woods and like it here.
Then discover that your employer will buy the bus pass for you, saving you that additional $55/mo. Wow. I'm commuting a hundred miles per day for free. I saved enough in gas money to buy a new Fargo (so much for free!) and that's considering that my main motor vehicle is an old, paid for BMW motorcycle that gets 45 mpg and only costs $175/year to insure. Parts $ sure add up quickly but it doesn't need much.
I have also pretty much quit running, so I no longer need to buy $$$ shoes every few months.
I don't want to move (the more obvious solution to the long commute) because I live in the woods and like it here.
#64
Did you reply to the wrong post? I didn't say anything about feeding/lunch.
Anyway, yes obviously if you are disciplined enough to only buy the necessities and never upgrade them each season (wearing them until they fall apart) you will save more. Most cyclists like to enough their riding though and will get nicer stuff the more they ride, multiples bikes even, and bike stuff is notoriously expensive (imo) because MTB and road cycling are hobbies/sports. So the "fixed" expenses become "variable".
Gas $ is dependent on the length of commute. My commute is only 10 mi each way in a compact car so that's not a lot of gas. Less than a gallon/day.
Anyway, yes obviously if you are disciplined enough to only buy the necessities and never upgrade them each season (wearing them until they fall apart) you will save more. Most cyclists like to enough their riding though and will get nicer stuff the more they ride, multiples bikes even, and bike stuff is notoriously expensive (imo) because MTB and road cycling are hobbies/sports. So the "fixed" expenses become "variable".
Gas $ is dependent on the length of commute. My commute is only 10 mi each way in a compact car so that's not a lot of gas. Less than a gallon/day.
My wife and I have usually had two cars, but we have saved money on cars by keeping cars much longer than we would have otherwise. This has partly been due to lowered mileage/maintenance, but the greater part is that I am willing to own a much junkier 2nd car since I rarely need it to depend on it get to work. If we absolutely always needed it to be reliable, I would definitely own a nicer one instead. Therefore, we have gone pretty long stretches with no car payment at all. Right now we have a paid off 2008 and hope (knock on wood) to get a couple more years out of our 1998 minivan. We got the van for cheap in the first place partly because it had a lot of miles on it. Insurance is relatively low on that one because it isn't worth much (it's relative because auto insurance here is pretty expensive no matter what). In case no one else has mentioned it, you could see if there is a low-mileage discount for auto insurance.
Jim S.
Jim S.
#65
I suppose it is a different way of looking at things. My wife and I have one car, a 2003 Subaru that we paid cash for. It hasn't broken down yet, but in the rare event that it did, we could go about our normal lives using public transit and / or bicycles. I would hate to be that reliant on a car that it'd be cheaper to own two cars in case one broke down.
#66
www.ocrebels.com
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 6,186
Likes: 8
From: Los Angeles area
Bikes: Several bikes, Road, Mountain, Commute, etc.
This sure has been an interesting thread. After having read all the posts above, I'd say it just goes to prove that not only is everyone's commuting situation different, almost everyone has a different way of looking at their situation.
Luckily my wife has no problem with me bike commuting, so the OP's problem is (thankfully!) not mine. My car is very thrifty on gas ('06 Honda Insight), so I get 70+ mpg in the warmer months and no worse than 63 mpg during the colder months (like now). Since I commute for 15 mi. + 20 mi. on the Metro ($3.00 per day) and my Insight costs only $2.70 in gas per day, it actually costs me more to commute by bike. That's with gas @ $3.85 here in SoCal.
Unless I add in all the other costs (insurance, maintenence, etc.) which would make it (I'm guessing) even up or an advantage to the bicycle. Both the car and the bike are paid for, so no payment issues. I'm a recreational rider anyway, so I didn't have to buy much to start commuting. Well . . . except the folding bike itself (DaHon Curve 8spd). I still drive on Mondays (the least congested freeway traffic day) and bring food and clothing for the week; bring home last week's laundry.
So, overall, I like the commute for the bike ride twice a day and it's okay with me if it's a break-even or costing me slightly more to ride my bike.
Rick / OCRR
Luckily my wife has no problem with me bike commuting, so the OP's problem is (thankfully!) not mine. My car is very thrifty on gas ('06 Honda Insight), so I get 70+ mpg in the warmer months and no worse than 63 mpg during the colder months (like now). Since I commute for 15 mi. + 20 mi. on the Metro ($3.00 per day) and my Insight costs only $2.70 in gas per day, it actually costs me more to commute by bike. That's with gas @ $3.85 here in SoCal.
Unless I add in all the other costs (insurance, maintenence, etc.) which would make it (I'm guessing) even up or an advantage to the bicycle. Both the car and the bike are paid for, so no payment issues. I'm a recreational rider anyway, so I didn't have to buy much to start commuting. Well . . . except the folding bike itself (DaHon Curve 8spd). I still drive on Mondays (the least congested freeway traffic day) and bring food and clothing for the week; bring home last week's laundry.
So, overall, I like the commute for the bike ride twice a day and it's okay with me if it's a break-even or costing me slightly more to ride my bike.
Rick / OCRR
#67
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,709
Likes: 22
From: Raleigh, NC
Bikes: Downtube 8H, Surly Troll
I agree with some that just using gas can be the quickest and most realistic if you plan on keeping your vehicle. Using the .51/mile reimbursement value can be misleading. It's great if you just want to win an argument or avoid hard math, but when you're using one, catch-all number to apply to everyone and every situation in the country, you know it has to be a very general estimate and may or may not apply to any one person's situation.
Maintenance/wear and tear can be really tricky. If you're strict about changing your oil every X miles, that can be an simple number to add in. Otherwise it's really guesswork and averages. I could go years without a major repair and then get hit with a big one. If the big one comes during the year I was bike-commuting, all of the sudden those maintenance savings aren't there. So figure in costs that have a clear, per-mile cost like oil, gas, and tires. Maybe throw in brakes. Everything else is guesswork, averages, and luck. Some people like to calculate vehicle depreciation, but that's another squishy number. Lower miles keep your vehicle more valuable, but it still depreciates just by getting older. By most calculations, my car depreciated into negative value shortly after I got it, which is ridiculous, so treat those calculation with some skepticism.
Other places to look for savings:
Extra mileage. Sure, you know what your commute is, but do you always go straight to work and back? I don't. If you cut out those other detours, or do them on your bike, you can figure them into your other mileage-based savings. Likewise if you can make other, local trips on you bike, those can figure in. For me it got to the point where I had to be leaving town to even consider using the car, so not only did commuting miles go away, but so did all miles associated with local errands.
Gym membership if you use it and are willing to give it up.
Parking costs at work if you have them.
Insurance costs if they will go down.
Health benefits exist, but are also hard to quantify. Cycling doesn't exempt you from any illness, but makes some issues less likely or less severe. On the other hand, some activity-related injuries might become more likely, so, again, a hard number to pin down. However, regardless of actual dollars spent or not spent, being healthier has real value. So while you might not be able to figure the money to any reasonable degree, I would still not want to downplay the value in general quality-of-life terms.
And, as has been mentioned, there are costs associated with biking. Those can be almost as high or as low as you want them to be. If saving money is the primary goal, bike costs can be minimized, but you might want to figure on some shift of funds from the car to the bike. Of course if you're already riding regularly and already maintaining a bike, then it's possible the increase in bike-related costs would be minimal.
My wife doesn't like to waste money, but she also worries about my health as well as her own. Any money that I put into my bike is money that eventually translates into better health, so she is, for the most part, fine with it. Gas savings are there. Car maintenance savings are there. Medical cost savings are there. Insurance, parking, and no gym membership figure in. But they aren't the justification. They are the gravy. But not the fattening, artery clogging kind.
Maintenance/wear and tear can be really tricky. If you're strict about changing your oil every X miles, that can be an simple number to add in. Otherwise it's really guesswork and averages. I could go years without a major repair and then get hit with a big one. If the big one comes during the year I was bike-commuting, all of the sudden those maintenance savings aren't there. So figure in costs that have a clear, per-mile cost like oil, gas, and tires. Maybe throw in brakes. Everything else is guesswork, averages, and luck. Some people like to calculate vehicle depreciation, but that's another squishy number. Lower miles keep your vehicle more valuable, but it still depreciates just by getting older. By most calculations, my car depreciated into negative value shortly after I got it, which is ridiculous, so treat those calculation with some skepticism.
Other places to look for savings:
Extra mileage. Sure, you know what your commute is, but do you always go straight to work and back? I don't. If you cut out those other detours, or do them on your bike, you can figure them into your other mileage-based savings. Likewise if you can make other, local trips on you bike, those can figure in. For me it got to the point where I had to be leaving town to even consider using the car, so not only did commuting miles go away, but so did all miles associated with local errands.
Gym membership if you use it and are willing to give it up.
Parking costs at work if you have them.
Insurance costs if they will go down.
Health benefits exist, but are also hard to quantify. Cycling doesn't exempt you from any illness, but makes some issues less likely or less severe. On the other hand, some activity-related injuries might become more likely, so, again, a hard number to pin down. However, regardless of actual dollars spent or not spent, being healthier has real value. So while you might not be able to figure the money to any reasonable degree, I would still not want to downplay the value in general quality-of-life terms.
And, as has been mentioned, there are costs associated with biking. Those can be almost as high or as low as you want them to be. If saving money is the primary goal, bike costs can be minimized, but you might want to figure on some shift of funds from the car to the bike. Of course if you're already riding regularly and already maintaining a bike, then it's possible the increase in bike-related costs would be minimal.
My wife doesn't like to waste money, but she also worries about my health as well as her own. Any money that I put into my bike is money that eventually translates into better health, so she is, for the most part, fine with it. Gas savings are there. Car maintenance savings are there. Medical cost savings are there. Insurance, parking, and no gym membership figure in. But they aren't the justification. They are the gravy. But not the fattening, artery clogging kind.
#68
I couldn't tell, is this a "she doesn't want me to commute unless I can show her that it saves money" thing or a "we have a difference of opinion on whether or not this will save money, but I'm doing it anyway and she's cool with that" sort of thing like a bar argument?
__________________
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),
#69
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 1
From: PNW - Victoria, BC
Bikes: 2002 Litespeed Vortex - 2007 Trek Madone 5.9 - 2004 Redline Conquest Pro - Specialized S-Works Festina Team Model - 93 Cannondale M 800 Beast of the East
We went from 2 cars to 1. It's problematic at times with two kids and diverging schedules, but we make it work. Even if you own a vehicle outright, if you eliminate the insurance associated with owning the car, as well as the depreciation of owning the car, the equation is easy. I have to say though, at $3.50 +/- per gallon of gas, it shouldn't take too many tanks of gas to pay for most of your annual commuting needs providing that you're going to own a bicycle whether you commute on it or not.
#70
It's MY mountain

Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 10,168
Likes: 4,204
From: Mt.Diablo
Bikes: Klein, Merckx, Trek
Get your wife to agree on the cost savings equation, and then negotiate the value of each term.
The equation goes something like this:
(Savings by bicycle commuting) = (Reduction in gas costs) + (Reduction in auto insurance cost) + ( Reduction in auto maintenance cost) +( Reduction in tolls and parking fees) +(Reduction in auto depreciation) +(Reduction in health care costs) + (Reduction in gym membership fees) + (Reduction in costs for coffee and donuts while driving) + (Renewable energy credits) - (New bike and equipment costs) - (Bike maintenance costs) – (New bike clothes costs) – (Costs for extra food due to increased exercising)
The equation goes something like this:
(Savings by bicycle commuting) = (Reduction in gas costs) + (Reduction in auto insurance cost) + ( Reduction in auto maintenance cost) +( Reduction in tolls and parking fees) +(Reduction in auto depreciation) +(Reduction in health care costs) + (Reduction in gym membership fees) + (Reduction in costs for coffee and donuts while driving) + (Renewable energy credits) - (New bike and equipment costs) - (Bike maintenance costs) – (New bike clothes costs) – (Costs for extra food due to increased exercising)
#71
Senior Member


Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, CA
Bikes: Lynskey R230 DA DI2 ENVE 3.4 SES, 6KU Fixie, Cheap Aluminum Slapstick Trainer only bike
According to calculator, saving $6k a year. In all practicality, I think it is more of $4k a year. (not counting Gym membership, fitness class, etc)
I don't think I really save it all at the end of it though with the amount of bike gear I keep getting, as well as nutritional supplements. More like $1-2k a year.
But I am truly enjoying it
I don't think I really save it all at the end of it though with the amount of bike gear I keep getting, as well as nutritional supplements. More like $1-2k a year.
But I am truly enjoying it
#72
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,401
Likes: 1
From: Buffalo, NY
Bikes: 2012 Surly LHT, 1995 GT Outpost Trail
Here's how I look at it. The money doesn't even enter into the equation; it's simply an unintended bonus.
I am severely overweight. I'm a lot less overweight than I used to be, but I'm still 150+ pounds above where I want to be. I need to lose weight. In my life I need to get from point A to point B frequently. I can choose to do so with an automobile, or I can choose to do so with a bicycle.
When A and B are my workplace and I chose to use my car, the variables are
Time: 40-50 minutes (and occasionally 2 hours if traffic is bad, but that's an outlier)
Energy expended: Virtually zero
On my bicycle they become:
Time: 70-100 minutes (and occasionally 2 hours if I have a flat, but that's an outlier)
Energy expended: 1000-1200 calories
Now, prior to my biking-to-work phase, I was exercising 120 minutes a day on average, trying to lose weight. So if we added up the time I spent cycling for fun, and the time I spent driving to work we get:
120 + 40*2 to 120 + 50*2, or 200-220 minutes a day.
Now, if eliminate the drive and cycle to work, this figure becomes:
70*2 to 100*2, or 140-200 minutes a day.
So by cycling to work, I actually have anywhere from 20 to 60 minutes extra per day, to do whatever I want. I get to exercise more, and save time at the same exact time. It's really a no-lose scenario for me.
As long as I need to lose weight, and this condition will remain true for at least a few years, bicycling saves me time. It literally makes no sense to drive unless I simply need to be somewhere faster than I can cycle there. Now here's the best part. I would have spent money on my bicycle regardless of whether I commuted or not, because I would be riding the bicycle anyway! So yeah, there's a few things I purchased for commuting, like the lights for commuting at night (which I now use for cycling at night even when not commuting!), but by-and-large, almost none of the money I've put into my bicycle is only used for commuting. So I'm saving money simply by not driving, no matter what, and all that money is a bonus, in addition to the time-and-health benefits I gain regardless.
I really can't stress how much of a win-win scenario this is.
I am severely overweight. I'm a lot less overweight than I used to be, but I'm still 150+ pounds above where I want to be. I need to lose weight. In my life I need to get from point A to point B frequently. I can choose to do so with an automobile, or I can choose to do so with a bicycle.
When A and B are my workplace and I chose to use my car, the variables are
Time: 40-50 minutes (and occasionally 2 hours if traffic is bad, but that's an outlier)
Energy expended: Virtually zero
On my bicycle they become:
Time: 70-100 minutes (and occasionally 2 hours if I have a flat, but that's an outlier)
Energy expended: 1000-1200 calories
Now, prior to my biking-to-work phase, I was exercising 120 minutes a day on average, trying to lose weight. So if we added up the time I spent cycling for fun, and the time I spent driving to work we get:
120 + 40*2 to 120 + 50*2, or 200-220 minutes a day.
Now, if eliminate the drive and cycle to work, this figure becomes:
70*2 to 100*2, or 140-200 minutes a day.
So by cycling to work, I actually have anywhere from 20 to 60 minutes extra per day, to do whatever I want. I get to exercise more, and save time at the same exact time. It's really a no-lose scenario for me.
As long as I need to lose weight, and this condition will remain true for at least a few years, bicycling saves me time. It literally makes no sense to drive unless I simply need to be somewhere faster than I can cycle there. Now here's the best part. I would have spent money on my bicycle regardless of whether I commuted or not, because I would be riding the bicycle anyway! So yeah, there's a few things I purchased for commuting, like the lights for commuting at night (which I now use for cycling at night even when not commuting!), but by-and-large, almost none of the money I've put into my bicycle is only used for commuting. So I'm saving money simply by not driving, no matter what, and all that money is a bonus, in addition to the time-and-health benefits I gain regardless.
I really can't stress how much of a win-win scenario this is.
Last edited by Mithrandir; 11-29-11 at 04:56 PM.
#73
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,834
Likes: 0
From: Minneapolis, MN
Bikes: 05 Trek 5200, 07 Trek 520, 99 GT Karakoram, 08 Surly 1X1
Tell Ms. Accountant that she's making a mistake by looking at the short term hard cost savings.
She needs to put that big GAAP book down and take a look at the long term soft costs.
Heart disease, diabetes and obesity to name a few...
She needs to put that big GAAP book down and take a look at the long term soft costs.
Heart disease, diabetes and obesity to name a few...
#75
Is that necessary? Seems the cost of maintaining an extra car and the added insurance cost would exceed the cost of a rental, should you need it.
I suppose it is a different way of looking at things. My wife and I have one car, a 2003 Subaru that we paid cash for. It hasn't broken down yet, but in the rare event that it did, we could go about our normal lives using public transit and / or bicycles. I would hate to be that reliant on a car that it'd be cheaper to own two cars in case one broke down.
I suppose it is a different way of looking at things. My wife and I have one car, a 2003 Subaru that we paid cash for. It hasn't broken down yet, but in the rare event that it did, we could go about our normal lives using public transit and / or bicycles. I would hate to be that reliant on a car that it'd be cheaper to own two cars in case one broke down.
Now, if I were making payments on mine, I'd be seriously consider selling it. But since I don't, it doesn't cost me too much to have one of our cars sitting there.
Public transit is horrible here, even though it was an award winner in the past. 2 hours by bus to get to my office is far to long to travel less than 10 miles.




