IMHO the best helmet for commuting is MTB helmet with a visor. These are strong, but generally bulkier than road helmets, and the visor helps with sun and keep some of the rain off of your eyes. But pick whatever you like, really, just make sure it's decent quality.

Remember that you can't possibly get get everything right in the beginning, when you starting out; and what works for others might not always work for you. So while asking for advice is definitely a good idea, don't let that stop you from experimenting and trying things out on your own.

That Bell helmet you linked to is sufficient in terms of protection, but I fount that type of helmet a bit uncomfortable. They usually don't have adjustable webbing/straps and you adjust the fit by replacing the pads. You need get the size right. Also, they provide very little ventilation. I use something similar in cold weather but I use it without the foam pads, just over a hat and it works nicely. But I do miss the visor when it rains.

Yes, I agree with what you said. It basically does come down to looks, features and comfort. And you can expect similar protection from most helmets made by known manufacturers. I generally find Gyro fittings to work better than Bell, but you do pay a bit extra for that. On the other hand, there is no reason to spend a lot of money on a commuter's helmet, you should buy a new one instead every couple of years. The straps, buckles and pads will usually wear out, stretch, crack, etc. with frequent use and you'll want a new one.

I, on the other hand, always have to buy the largest helmet I can find. Most helmets are too small for me. My head is pretty round and it doesn't look that large and I'm only 5'11". I know people larger than me that wear smaller helmets.

I can't answer for ultimattfrisbee, but the joke goes that the ideal number of bikes for someone to have is N+1, where N is the number of bikes you have now...once you think you're set, you'll find that you want another one! This has happened to me...had been riding my early 1980s Univega, which my dad got new and passed it down to me, and I was happy with that...until I started thinking about a new bike. Found a lightly used Torker Graduate on Craigslist for a steal...and since it was so cheap, I'm thinking that buying a brand new bike wouldn't be crazy.

n+1 isn't the only axiom around here.

Another is that your first bike will undoubtedly be wrong. Some people manage to hit a home run right of the box, but a lot of people don't. Your first bike is meant to help you sort out what works and what doesn't for you.

OP- do consider our input, but realize you are the one who will be buying and riding whatever you end up with. You know your budget and test ride, test ride, test ride. Test rides will narrow down the choices in a hurry. Figure in the price of decent locks in the budget or be prepared for your precious to cast its spell on another.

^^^ Yeah I think I understand what you mean.

I test rode a bunch of bikes today.

I wasn't as happy with the Felt Brougham as I was hoping to be. It feels alright. It looks the coolest out of all the bikes I am considering and test rode today. But it basically felt the same as when i test rode the cheap Phat Cycles bike I test rode during the week.

Something I am noticing is that I am so used to riding my smaller bmx bike which has a very short height. I think I am used to riding very low to where my entire foot can comfortable touch the ground while sitting upright on the saddle. I find that it feels a bit comfier to be able to scoot/push off with one of my feet while sitting on the bike seat.

On the Felt Brougham and most of the other urban bikes I tried so far, I can only touch the ground with the toes of one of my feet while on the seat (and I have to lean a bit on one side or the other). Is that how it's supposed to be? (Again, this is why I say that I am a beginner, I actually don't know these things)

I mentioned this to one of the guys who was helping me out today. He said that it's bad for your knees to ride so low. Can anyone offer any more input on this?

Should I opt for a lower bike, or was I riding like an idiot on my old bmx bike and get used to riding a different way (possibly the correct way)?

Another bike I got to try today was the Novara Buzz One at REI. I was actually pretty happy with it. It felt the best among all the bikes I've tried so far. And I think it's possibly because the seat on this was a bit lower than everything else I've tried (again does this mean I might be slowly injuring my knees?)

I'm not sure I like the mustache handlebar though. And I don't like the paint scheme or the blue rims on the Novara Buzz One. Anyone have any advice on possibly painting it black? How do I go about doing that? Are there places that can do that for me? Or do most people do it themselves?

Also, can anyone recommend a good flat handlebar to replace the mustache handlebar. The employees at REI were even telling me that pretty much everyone dislikes the mustache handlebar and opts to replace it. However, they barely had a selection of handlebars to choose from. I think I might have to go about finding a replacement and then bringing it over to them to switch it out.

Yeah thanks for the input everyone.

In terms of locks, I already own an OnGuard chain-type lock. It's a big ass chain. I'm assuming this would be sufficient???

I also have a Kryptonite cable lock.

The main things I just need are a bicycle and a helmet I think.

And regarding the recommendations for a replacement flat handlebar for the Novara Buzz One. They told me I'm supposed to get something that fits a 31.8 clamp.

Regarding the standing/foot issue, for road bikes the conventional wisdom is that you should not be able to put your foot on the ground when sitting. If you need to put your foot down, you're stopped, so you don't need to be sitting on the saddle still. It's also a bit easier to start from a stop when you push off the ground and stand up to pedal for a bit, then sit back down.

Beach cruisers and comfort bikes have pretty relaxed geometry, where you can pretty much put your feet down while still on the seat. You won't find this on road or hybrid bikes.

This may be a change that you get used to, but perhaps not. I know you've thought about a ton of different bikes already, but if this becomes a big issue for you, you may want to consider an Electra bike. I don't think that they get a lot of respect from more serious cyclists, but if you're looking for a relaxed ride, they're great. My wife has a woman's Electra Townie. They have men's versions as well, but the styling is more cruiser-like, and it seems like you're not interested in that. They have one line that's more of a blend of hybrid bike and cruiser, the Ticino. REI should carry them.

http://www.electrabike.com/Bikes/ticino-bikes-electra

Tohtruck says:

Great! That's the only way to really do it!

I'm kinda surprised at the Felt. I thought it might perform a little better than that! Oh well, moving right along...


Well that's how it's generally done. One foot is on the ground while the other foot pushes down upon the pedal, that pushes the entire bike forward, to give you momentum. Now if you're talking about pushing back on the ground with the left foot, then the right foot, then the left again, no, that's not how it's supposd to be. Alternatively, you could just push the bike forward, mount it while it's moving, find your balance, and just start pedaling that way. However, that might not be advisable, but that's the way I do it!

No! When you stand over your bike. Both feet are supposed to be flat on the floor. Then you should be able to stick to fingers between your jewels and the top tube. If you can get four fingers in there, the frame is more than likely to small. If you can barely get one finger in there, the frame just might be a tad too tall. As you are seated upon your bike, you shouldn't be able to place the ball at the bottom of your big toe, flat on the ground. At least the tip of your big toe should barely touch the ground. Being able to tippy toe onto the ground is fine. Even if you can't touch the ground from a sitting position with the tips of your toes, that's fine with both road bikes and hybrid bikes.

Ok, so now, you've lost me! How can the seat be too low, if your toes are just barely touching the ground, as you move from side to side?

Ask to speak with a mechanic, the next time that you go to REI. Tell him about today's fitting experience and let him reflect upon your given advice. He should be able to properly advise you.

No. You are not injuring your knees. You just got to test-ride a proper fitting bike. That's why we say all the time that if a bike doesn't fit well, it won't ride well, and you won't ride it. Fit is absolutely the most important factor when selecting a bike.

REI should have a plethora of flat handlebars availble for you. If they don't have them in stock, they can most certainly show you their catalogue so that you can order what you like.

Insofar as painting is concerned. There are several ways to go. Do you want it to look nice and attractive? ..OR- Are you just put off by the color and you simply want a color change? ..Because, you do know that you can easily wrap tape around the tubes and paint the tape.

There's another DIY way. For that, just go to the General Cycling Discussion Forum and check out the threads "Anyone Ever Have A Bike Painted" and "Rattlecan Paint Job".

Of course, the two classy ways to have you bike painted, is to have it professionally powder-coated, or painted by an autobody shop.

Most people use rattle can spray paint, and it turns out less than stellar!

Checkout:

http://bontrager.com/products/components/handlebars

www.nashbar.com

Click onto components & bike parts and then handlebars

However, before you actually order anything outside of REI, go to the bicycle co-op. Learn how to replace your own handlebars. Then just take your time finding the handlebars that you really like! Spend a couple days looking a bikes with flat handlebars and making certain that those handlbars meet the correct specifications. Then when you're absolutely certain. Take your bike to the co-op and install your handlebars.

Of course, you could always just let REI do it, too! However they're probably going to charge for the service. OTOH, they might not charge if you're a member.

Good Luck!

- Slim :)

PS.

Wait A Minute...

How tall are you, TohTruck?

Revised

Thanks for the quick replies erg79 and SlimRider.

Yeah, so basically what I meant was that I am used to being low enough (on my old BMX bike) to the ground to be able to push off the ground with my foot while seated on the saddle.

Yeah, erg79, that's what I was kinda doing. I think I just didn't realize that that's how you ride a bike that isn't a bmx, freestyle, low-seated mountain bike, or cruiser/comfort bike.

I can see myself getting used to it. I think part of my uncertainty comes from the fact that I'm a lil ***** and I'm not used to riding like you're supposed to. It's also been a while since I've been on a bike.

I think the Felt Brougham felt similar to the Phat Cycles bike in terms of geometry I guess. My body felt similarly positioned, and again I wasn't sure if I was supposed to be higher off the ground than what I was used to with my old bmx bike. In terms of performance, I really couldn't tell either, they felt pretty similar. Again, I'm not really sure what I am supposed to look out for between a good ride and bad ride. I suppose I don't know enough about bikes to be able to tell the difference.

Yeah, SlimRider, with the Felt Brougham and the Phat Cycles bike I could get about two fingers between the top tube and my junk.

If I remember correctly, I was able to touch the ground with my toe and maybe part of the ball of my foot (but I think I was just slightly leaned over to one side). If I wanted to hit the whole ball of my foot then I probably would have been leaned over more to that side on the bike (whilst seated). I mean either way I suppose I would have been slightly leaned over to one side or the other since I'm stopped.

Put it this way, if I was sitting on the bike with none of my feet on the pedals and trying to balance myself with parts of my feet on the ground and the bike seat under me then my taint would be getting mashed and I would be falling to one side or the other in agony. I don't think I would be comfortably able to keep myself standing up and my seat under me (unless the bike were leaned a bit on one side or the other, and even then I would have to have at least one foot on a pedal).

So yeah, with the seat at the lowest position. I would not have been able to push off the ground with one foot then the other (basically the way SlimRider is saying how it is not supposed to be), my sensitive area would be getting crushed between left and right foot.

I can stand flat-footed over the bike while my ass is over the top tube. But I can't stand over the bike at all while my ass is on the seat.

When the dude at the bike shop originally gave me to bike to test ride. He looked at me and adjusted the seat (just lowered it slightly). When I was riding it, I could tell that my knee was basically fully extended on the downturn (on the crank). So basically if I wanted to stand and pedal while my ass was directly over the seat, it probably wasn't happening or at best I would have stood over the seat maybe an inch or two and pedaled (so there wasn't much clearance in height between my taint/ass and the seat). But I suppose when people stand and pedal, they aren't situated with their ass and taint area directly over the seat (right or wrong?)

I rode it around and then came back to the store to see if the seat could be lowered. He adjusted it and made it lower. My knee was still extended on the downturn, but not quite as much (like my knee wasn't locked out on the downturn but there was a very slight bend). And I could stand and pedal while my ass and taint are directly over the seat a bit easier (there was a bit more clearance space in height).

Basically, if you've seen bike delivery men who are a bit small in stature riding giant mountain bikes that are obviously too big for them, I definitely did not look like that at all.

It's possible I might just need to test ride it again. I actually don't quite remember the extreme details. But I was definitely able to stand flat-footed over the top tube.

Ok so the dude I was talking to about riding very low to the ground was not from REI. And what I was referring to was when I use to ride my BMX bike I was seated lower, and maybe that I'm too used to that (again as that is my only cycling experience). So basically, he was saying that if I ride too low that I could end up injuring my knees. And basically he was implying that I should be riding higher (such as the height of the Felt bike I was test riding).

Regarding the Novara Buzz One, I think I was able to stand flat footed over the bike seat, or at least one of my feat flat footed while seated on the bike. So I could push off the ground while seated.

It definitely felt different than the Felt Brougham, Phat Cycles Phixie, and the SE Draft Lite (a hideous bike that I test rode that was also the least expensive of all the ones I've looked at). But I assume it's also just a completely different kind of bike as the Brougham and Phat Cycles Phixie appear to be road frames.

REI had like two handlebars in their store for me to choose from. Anything else would have to be special ordered. Or I could order my own and they could do the work and put it on (it might be a charge of like $20 for labor). They were actually pretty unclear about everything, but REI only just recently opened up here in NYC.

I'm put off by the color of the Novara Buzz One and the handlebars.

I'm 5'5"

Also, I kind of don't want to go through the headache now of finding the right handlebars.

Take a look at some online instructions for finding proper seat height on a bike. Your leg should be nearly straight if you are sitting on the seat with your heel on the pedal at it's lowest position. Given that guidance, you should not be able to touch the ground while seated (perhaps if you have size 12 feet you might be able to get toes on ground). It's normal, you'll get used to it. My knees start having sympathy pains when I see people riding with their knees all bent. Don't ride like that on a road bike.

What that salesperson meant when he said having the seat too low is bad for your knees is that you will have knee pain. Usually If a seat is too low you'll have pain in the front of your knee and if its too high you'll have pain in the back of your knees. If you want to have your feet on the ground maybe look at something like a Trek Navigator or Specialized Expedition which will have gears though. I think you should take a look at a Trek Earl also its a single speed a little under 500 and doesn't look too fancy so you won't have to worry as much. Either way one thing I always say is use a HEAVY DUTY lock like a Kryptonite New York chain and have all the quick release parts locked down. Also get a seat lock which is a bike chain thrown into a tube and fastens the seat tro the frame. It isn't such a common thing and you'll have to find a shop that does it as many have never even heard of a seat lock before. This video should give you a better idea of how to lock a bike in NYC.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryY-qMFLcfo

Here's a thought- since you're used to riding BMX, why not look at getting another one for commuting? Possibly one with 24" wheels. Single speed, nimble and agile handling. My avatar is my primary commuter, but I have used my 8 yr old son's Haro H-1 BMX with 20" wheels from time to time- and I'm 6'.



If you go the BMX route, then you'll probably want to upgrade the braking system.

Okay, so based on what I am reading. The bikes I tried were properly sized.

The place that was selling the Phat Cycles Phixie, actually also offered to cut down the seat for free if I wanted. But I'm guessing now that it probably isn't necessary and I should just learn how to ride the damn thing properly.

Unfortunately, none of the places I checked out had the Trek Earl (at the very least not in my size).

What are quick release parts?

I suppose I could look into getting a BMX with bigger wheels. But I think I just want to go with something different. Oddly enough, I haven't seen very many big wheel bmx cruiser type bikes in any of the shops I went to. Actually, it's really weird but I haven't even seen very many BMX bikes in most of the shops I went to.

Quick release (QR) skewers generally used on the seat post and/or the axles.



I'm too lazy to post up a pic- just do a Google Image search for 'quick release skewer'.

I see what you mean, thanks for the clarification.

You are absolutely correct TohTruck. I was giving sizing directions for a MTN bike, NOT a road bike!

With a MTB, the balls of your feet should be able to touch the ground from a seated position.

At first, I was thinking that perhaps the Brougham didn't feel right due to improper sizing. Mentally, I guess I was trying to find fault with the sizing as opposed to the poor-riding Brougham, itself.

This is the correct sizing and fit information regarding seat height.

This is excellent advice for the proper seat height. Follow this information!

I'm starting to think maybe I should save a lil bit of cash and get the Phat Cycles Phixie instead of the Felt Brougham.

So I'm basically stuck between the Phat Cycles Phixie, Felt Brougham, and the Novara Buzz One.

The Phat Cycles Phixie feels similar to riding the Felt Brougham. It looks nice. But I worry that the quality and durability of the bike and the components may not be very good. It doesn't have a front wheel brake. There aren't many reviews on this bike. I only managed to read one fairly in depth review, where the writer replaced a bunch of the stock components anyway. Although since this will be my first road/urban/commuting bike, maybe it is suitable that I go cheap.

The Felt Brougham felt similar to riding the Phat Cycles Phixie. It looks the coolest out of all the bikes. I've been reading positive reviews on it. The store offers free brake and gear adjustments for life, as well as less expensive tune-up costs than REI. But it is the most expensive bike I am considering.

It will probably take a little bit of time getting used to riding the Phixie and/or the Brougham. But I can see myself getting used to it, especially once my fear of street riding with NYC automobiles and crazy cabbies simmers down.

The Novara Buzz One was a very comfortable ride. The REI Satisfaction Guaranteed warranty is awesome. However, while I don't think it's hideous, I do find it to be the least attractive. I dislike the handlebars and if I want it replaced I will probably go through another headache of finding the right handlebar and then either doing it myself or taking it back to REI (not a big deal, but I will probably go crazy finding the right handlebar). After tax it will be about $50 less than that of the Brougham. After finding the right handlebar, and adding cost of labor (or doing it myself), it will come out to just slightly less or the same price as the Brougham. Spray painting it or getting a custom paint job on the bike if I decide to will also add to the cost and headache and might void the REI satisfaction guaranteed warranty.

Decisions decisions...

[QUOTE=Tohtruck;13841500]

I'd hold off on that idea until things have settled a bit.

If the Fixie from Phat Cycles costs more than the Brougham, and you don't like the looks of the Buzz One. I'd say, that pretty much shortens your list for you.

The words "cheap" and "bicycle", should never be used within the same sentence, if you can help it. Just because a bicycle costs less than another doesn't necessarily make it "cheap".

If the Felt Brougham is at the top of your list in terms of having the entire package, then yes, it will be worthwhile. If it's not at the top of your list then it will not be worth the extra cash.

This phenomenon can only be adapted to, it can't be taught. My advice is to meditate every morning, just before you take off, just to center yourself and gather your nerves.
I don't anybody ever really adapts to NY cabbies!

Voiding the warranty due to painting is a fact that I overlooked. That's a common practice within the industry, this voiding the warranty due to painting. REI most probably will be no exception to this practice.

If that's the case, then just forget about the Buzz One altogether, because that's your sole reason for considering REI in the first place. Furthermore, one of the worse things you could ever do, would be to purchase a bike that doesn't look good to you. That's something about vehicles that are the wrong color, they just don't ever really grow on you. It's sorta like having to marry some girl that you feel deep down inside, that she's really ugly....Yuck!!! Just like the girl, you won't be riding your bike too much either!

So that narrows the choices between the Phat Cycle Fixie and the Felt Brougham.

I say, at this point, get the Brougham. It comes with a lifetime warranty. Felt is a better known company. The Brougham looks cooler! Get the Brougham, unless the price difference is too great!

- Slim

I saw a Trek Earl in orange the other day at the Bicycle Habitat in Park Slope not sure what size though.

The Felt "looks" better, but the Buzz One "feels" better?? You wanting something to ride or an art piece?

Slim made the statement that the worst thing you could do was buy a bike that was ugly to you because then you wouldn't want to ride it. Incorrect. The worst thing you could do is get something you are not comfortable riding- no matter what it is or where you are riding.

I've got one more suggestion for a bike, though: Raleigh Back Alley. Got no idea of the pricing, and this should get Slim's juices flowing (hint: frame is/has Reynolds 520 and the fork is 4130 cromoly :)).

The Fixie from Phat Cycles is about $460, the shop that was selling them said they'd shave off a few dollars if I paid in cash, which is what I am planning on doing anyway.

The Felt Brougham is $598.

It's not a gigantic price difference, but it's very considerable.

It's a good point, No1Mad. One feels better and the other might take a bit of time getting used to. But I think it's also just that they might be two different kinds of bikes.

I'll look around for the Back Alley, but I have not come across it at any of the bike shops yet.

I haven't been to Bicycle Habitat in Park Slope. I only went to the one in Manhattan. I live in Manhattan and figured it would make sense to buy from a bike shop that is relatively close to where I live, to take advantage from whatever free/discounted mechanic service they might offer.

Another thing that I guess I need to consider is the likelihood of theft among the bikes.

What would look more enticing to steal or steal the parts from between the Phat Cycles Phixie, Novara Buzz One, and the Felt Brougham.

My sister's boyfriend, who used to ride a mountain bike regularly, recommended that I look into a mountain bike as it will be more durable and able to withstand potholes, broken glass, and other lovely details of city riding.

Should I scrap the whole road bike and/or urban bike idea and look into a mountain bike instead? Would I be able to get something decent in a complete mountain bike with $600?

Oooh! Oooh! Did someone say chromoly? Oooh! Oooh! It's just so exciting! :lol:

I think it would be in Tohtruck's best interest to try the Back Alley and the Schwinn Madison. He might also swing back over to the Felt people to retry that Brougham. I've read nothing, but great to stellar reviews about it!

Also, I talked to a bicycle person here at the REI in San Francisco. He says, "As long as your bike is the same color, as it was when you initially purchased it, you're entitled to 100% satisfaction. It's not like we're going to check the paint number or anything!" :thumb:

In that case, the Buzz One should still be on the table as long as Rustoleum is still sold publicly ;)

- Slim :)

PS.


* BTW - You're absolutely right about the Buzz One. It should be favored over any of the others!

http://www.schwinnbikes.com/bikes/ur...-madison-14401

Looks to be a bit out of my price range. But I'll ask around if any places have it.

I think, if I decide to get the Buzz One, I'm just not gonna mess with the paint. It's not terrible, just not ideal. I'd rather not even risk messing with a possible void in the warranty. But the handlebars are kind of a doody. Also the saddle looks a bit ridiculous. But mainly it's the ridiculous handlebars that get to me.

I'm starting to think maybe I should just get the Buzz One, possibly switch out the handlebars to whatever they have in the store. They were kind of unclear about switching handlebars. One person told me that it is included with a free 30 mins of mechanic labor that I am offered when I buy the bike. But the cost of buying handlebars at the REI store would be included. Or it might be free if I give them the mustache stock handlebars. Another dude told me that it would just be free (parts and labor from REI). And I was told that if I decide to bring in handlebars from outside that it would be $15-$20 in labor.

I'm kind of thinking maybe I should just get the Buzz One. With the satisfaction guaranteed, I suppose I could just return for a refund if I decide I want to get the Felt Brougham down the road; or I'll figure out in the future that I want something else and I'll have a better idea of what I want, and then return the Buzz One. In a way the Buzz One kind of becomes a long-term rental with a hefty deposit I suppose.

But again, I dunno what handlebars to choose.

I kind of liked the narrow handlebars that are offered on the Phixie and the Brougham. I definitely see them as being very practical for getting through traffic. Something I was not comfortable accomplishing with the 'stache handlebars on the Buzz One.

The stock handlebars on the Buzz One, just look stupid to me, not practical for commuting in traffic. But I can see them being comfortable if I just wanted to cruise on a bike path by the river or a wide open street with no traffic.

Is it difficult to change them out myself?

Another thing I realize, is that with the road frames on the Phixie and Brougham, if I ever got into an accident there's a good chance I might fall off the saddle and wreck my bits and pieces on the top tube. Is that a common occurrence with road frames? I remember SlimRider mentioning that there should be about two fingers worth of clearance between the top tube and the jewels. Wouldn't that make it a safety consideration if for whatever reason you launched onto the top tube?

Whereas the Buzz One has a top tube that kind of declines closer to the saddle. I would be less scared of falling on that.

Am I overanalyzing everything????