I did not test ride the Jamis Coda today. I'll explain

I went over to EMS to test ride the bike and see what they could tell me about the status of the new Jamis Codas for 2012.

I got there and explained to them my whole situation that I wanted to test ride the Coda but don't know anything about geared bikes. They brought it down and did a basic fitting for the seat height. I asked them to teach me about the gears and how to shift them and what to and what not do. They started explaining things to me and it started to get confusing very very fast. This is partly due to the fact that most of the terminology they were using flew over my head.

While I was there, one of the employees actually pointed out that they had just received some Jamis Coda Sports for 2012. One was built up, but it was a bigger size. But they also said that they also had one in my size but it was not yet built. They said they could probably have it built for me to try by tomorrow afternoon.

Keep in mind, that the area that EMS is located at is a very busy shopping area. There are some small streets, but for the most part it's usually pretty busy. So I told them that I was a bit nervous about taking it out for at test ride especially being that I don't know what I'm doing with the gears.

I'm sure that I was being overly cautious. Nevertheless, I asked if they could teach me everything I needed to know about how things on the bike worked.

They suggested that I first give it a go on the trainer before hitting the street.

As I was pedaling away on the trainer, one of the employees was explaining everything and giving me a basic lesson on how everything worked as I was doing it. I got a slightly better understanding now, but I was still getting a bit confused about some things. I think one of the employees was telling me something about the angle that the chain ends up in certain gears and that there was something that I had to keep in mind when I'm using the largest front gear with the largest rear gear or something... ????

I have a tendency to overanalyze things, so I was probably making a bigger deal out of it than was necessary, but I still would rather know what the heck is going on and why; and when to do what rather than just taking it out and going by trial and error and risk breaking something on the bike or getting into an accident.

As I was shifting things and pedaling, I noticed that the bike started making a very strange loud crackling noise and and it sounded like the chain was dragging on something. I could also feel a weird periodic snap on the pedal as I was going in that particular gear. I asked one of the employees if the bike is supposed to sound like that. She was upfront and honest and said, no, and that some adjustments had to be made, and it was a good thing that I pointed that out. She said that the bike had been hanging up (they display them on hooks) for a long time and that the particular gear that was making noise had to be re-adjusted or that they might have to tighten somethings up on the bike.

I basically told them that I was not comfortable test riding the bike at that time but I would come back when everything is in order. Plus it would make sense for me to come back so I could also test ride the Jamis Coda Sport 2012.

One thing they suggested was that I come by Saturday morning when they open up because at that time the streets wouldn't be nearly as busy.

Some other things to note:

The Jamis Coda is definitely a badass looking bike!

The Felt Brougham is aesthetically pleasing because it looks very simple and minimal. It also feels considerably lighter than my little BMX bike, which was shocking when I first checked it out.

I found the Jamis Coda aesthetically pleasing for kind of the opposite reason. It looks very technical and advanced. The handlebars and headset (they were showing me how the headset allows for quick adjustments of the handlebar height which is neat) look like something Marty McFly would have brought back from the future. When the dude helping me out was adjusting the seat height, I noticed that there was a quick release latch that allowed the seat height to be adjusted very easily and quickly (I'm guessing this would mean that I should take the seat out and bring it along with me when I lock it up outside). I found that feature to be very cool.

Again, as I was on the trainer pedaling and shifting, I couldn't help thinking that this is more complicated than it should be and that I might just be happier with a simpler bike that just goes foreword.

As I was pedaling, I became very conscious of how uncomfortable the saddle was as well as my posture as I was a bit more crouched forward than on the Novara Buzz One. It's possible that since I was on the trainer and not out on the street, where I would have been focused on my surroundings, that maybe my attention was focused more so on these thing than when I was on the street test riding the other previous bikes.

The Jamis Coda 2011 they are selling for $550 (just at my budget limit when you include tax). The Jamis Coda Sport 2012 they are selling for $560 (this actually takes me about $10 over my budget after tax). They only had one Coda 2011 left and it's in crimson red. It's not hideous but I would have preferred it in black. They have the Coda Sport 2012 in black. Yeah, I'm just pointing out the color. Furthermore, I am wondering what the differences are between the Coda 2011 and Coda Sport 2012.

The EMS employees weren't really able to tell me. For the most part they said that they are very similar bikes, the frames would be the same and that the only difference would be that the components on the Coda Sport 2012 might be slightly better ($10 difference better?)

The gear issue the moment I got on it made me a bit apprehensive about buying a geared bike in general. This was a bike that spent most of it's life in a store and not out on the street being ridden and abused everyday for however many miles. It was just hanging up, and even then when they brought it down it had gear issues. Furthermore, it also made me a bit apprehensive about buying that specific bike.

Two employees (one guy from yesterday and a dude from today) told me that they offer one free tune-up within 90 days of purchase and then after that any sort of gear or brake adjustments and tune-ups would be charged. Wear and tear issues aren't covered by them, but any defects on the bike they could sort out.

I'm a newbie especially with geared bikes so who knows what I might unknowingly mess up, it might or might not be likely, but the possibility is there. And of course after the gear and chain issue came about today on the trainer, who knows what's going to happen when I'm actually out riding it constantly.

I understand that kind of contradicts with Slim's advice that I become a self-sufficient mechanic for my own bike (something that I want to be in the near future). But it's good to know that even while experimenting and working on my own bike, there will be a bike shop or another authority that I can turn to when **** goes beyond my control (I guess this is where REI would shine).

So yeah, two employees said that its 90 days. But then another employee told me differently. She said that for simple things like gear and brake adjustments (for the most part, basic things that don't require components to be changed or replaced), they would do it for free for the life of the bike. Hmm?

While I was talking to two of the employees who were helping me out, I was telling them that it seemed more complicated than I probably needed it to be and possibly more bike than I needed for my purposes. As one of them was explaining the practicality of having gears, the other employee actually turned to me and whispered yeah single speed/fixed gear is fine for the city and she also said that she's rides a fixie and thinks it more than enough even riding over bridges and hills.

The dude I spoke to from yesterday told me that the technology and the Jamis brand are good, and with the technology of derailleurs these days that I shouldn't have any problems. He said that after the initial tune-up, I probably wouldn't have to ever come back in to adjust anything (maybe once a year at most). Okay, but this actually seemed a bit contradictory when you consider the fact that the moment I got on the bike on the trainer I started noticing problems with the gears and stuff. It also seemed contradictory to what every other store and every other person has told me about geared bikes, some people have told me that the best thing to do is to get things adjusted and checked up on every three months, others have said at least once a year, etc.

Are there safety things and wear and tear issues that I should be aware of when shifting gears? I understand that I should be moving foreword when shifting gears and I shouldn't do it when not moving (one of the dudes at another store actually yelled at me when I was unknowingly doing that). Like are certain gear combinations going to cause more wear and tear on the bike?

Basically, I don't want to be thinking and worrying about gears and stuff while riding, chances are I'm going to over think it and start looking at the gears and the chain or the numbers on the shift shifters and get into an accident. I'm less likely to do something stupid like that on a single speed.

The EMS employee told me that I have nothing to worry about and that it's really easy. Eventually after riding it consistently for a couple weeks or a month, it'll be second nature. He said that if I go with a single speed, chances are I'm going to end up thinking why can't I have gears so I can go faster?

I just want to say that I hope this doesn't sound like I am knocking on EMS and their employees. Because they were exceptionally nice friendly and helpful. More so even than the small local bike shops.

And I apologize for the excruciatingly long posts. But I absolutely appreciate everyone who has been reading these and helping me out.

Okay, another thought just came to mind.

It's been a while since I've ridden a bike (aside from the test rides which barely count). Although I used to work as a delivery boy, I always still get a bit nervous riding on the street with cars and stuff. Likewise, since it's been a while, I'm going to be nervous and not quite as sharp getting back out there.

I could possibly buy the Novara Buzz One now, use it to get around and get acclimated into this whole cycling thing. Along with that, I'll be riding on the street and hopefully be getting comfortable and used to riding on the street.

By then maybe I will feel the need or have a better understanding of what I might need in a new bike with gears. Likewise, N+1. I'll get my geared bike later on when I know what the heck I am doing, feel comfortable on the street, maybe know some mechanics who can hook me up or better yet have an understanding of how to fix and maintain bikes myself (I won't feel apprehensive about not knowing how to adjust things and maintain things like I do right now).

Of course everything I just mentioned pretty much sums up what everyone on this forum has already been telling me. But it rationalizes getting the Buzz One (an inexpensive single speed with a good warranty) right now over some of the more expensive bikes and the geared bike(s) I've been looking at.

Something I wanted to ask you guys about safety that might rationalize getting the Jamis Coda or another geared bike.

Riding fast (maybe more capable on a geared bike) and keeping up with traffic when you are an inexperienced cyclist, is that safer than riding at a more relaxed pace on a slower bike and letting traffic pass you?
Or maybe just in general, how does that work for you guys? Do you feel it's safer to go fast with traffic or a bit slower and let traffic pass you?

****!

http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/htm...kesuit08m.html

What the FARK?!

I know these stories don't involve the specific models I am looking at, but this definitely worries me.

http://seriousaccidents.com/blog/par...bike-from-rei/

http://www.pritzkerlaw.com/section-d...ke-recall.html

http://www.classaction.org/rei-2005-...wsuit-926.html

http://www.injuryhelpnetwork.com/nov...icycle-recall/

http://www.injuryhelpnetwork.com/200...icycle-recall/

http://www.recalllawsuit.com/2010/07...t-bike-recall/

http://www.classaction.org/felt-bicy...suit-5693.html

Tohtruck says:

Hey there TohTruck! One thing about you, is that you most certainly don't ramble. Most people of this world would feel very intellectually endowed, if they could "ramble" in the eloquent manner in which you do. It's your manner of expression that allows us to appreciate you for your obvious intelligence. Noboby could ever walk away from these threads without having a complete understanding of your well-stated points.

I don't know anything about your being a kid. I've never even thought about your age. I have gotten the distinct impression that you're somewhat tentative when it comes to geared bicycles and mechanics. Hey! These things come in time and we've all struggled with these issues at one point or another. We've all needed confidence boosters at times. This is just your time!

Bikesdirect is a very valuable bicycle resource. This is especially true, as it applies to people who are mechanically inclined. I only referred you to Bikesdirect, because of your obvious enthusiasm about the TIME'S UP! bicycle co-op. I know that after the purchase of a MTB, you would be dependent for at least a couple weeks to learn about your bike. Since I personally know that there's really not much to the basics, that you'd have no problem. The sooner you wean yourself away from being dependent upon your LBS, the better. That's why co-ops are so valuable to the cycling community.

Having mechanically inclined friends can be just as helpful (if not more so), as belonging to a co-op, due to the fact that you're allowed to impose upon friends at times of your own personal convenience. You don't have to wait for some set time in which to consult with them, or have them attend your bike. Having good friends is always a plus!

Having a good friend would be quite helpful in the purchase of a used chromoly steel bike off of your local Craigslist. You could quite possibly score a ten speed racer, or a fixie for less than $200, and find that it is in fairly good condition. That would beat any sale at REI or EMS. However, if something were to go amiss, you'd be forced to rely upon the LBS for possibly an expensive repair. That's why it's so very important to have your own highly co-op-developed mechanic skills!

The faster you acquire bicycle mechanic skills, the more cash you'll have for your next N+1 purchase! ;)

My advice to you, is to become an integral part of some reputable co-op, as soon as possible! It would be great, if you could become a permanent weekend fixture at the co-op. Hangout with your bicycle mechanic friends more often and get your hands greasy. Get in there and learn your bike! I know that you're already contemplating this mechanics idea. You know how I know? ...'Cause great minds think alike! :lol:

Hey TohTruck, these things sometimes happen. There's nothing you can do about unforseen events. However, just make certain that you become a member of a very reputable co-op. Make certain that you have a spirit of dedication and the insatiable thirst the learn. That's what you're going to need to be a success at mastering the fundamentals of bicycle mechanics. Just take it topic by topic. Study brakes, their installation and adjustment. First study your brakes. Remove them, then reinstall them. Do the same with your chain. Take your handlebar off, then put it back on. First, you should learn how to change a flat! Of course, there are many aspects about bicycle mechanics, but most problems outside of tire issues, involve derailleurs, shifters, chains, and brakes.

Get those things down and you'll be along way towards the road to freedom!

Carbon fiber is construction-dependent!

The manufacturer can make it as strong as possibe, or the manufacturer can build it with flaws. It's too bad this had to happen to such a young person with so much promise!

Hey there TohTruck!

I've got an idea that addresses your geared bike problem. Just go to www.bikerentalcentralpark.com and make reservations for some a.m. rental for a couple of hours. That would be two hours of assisted learning. That's two whole hours of practice! Possibly have one of your friends accompany you with their own bike in tow. You could then, learn by trial and error, how to shift gears. That's what most people do, anyway! Another thing you might want to try, would be to find a friend or an associate who has a 3 speed or a 5 speed. Practice on bikes with lower speeds first, then jump on the higher geared bikes.

After some independent practice, then set up your gear-shifting appointment with EMS. You'll be better able to soak it all in by then! It's very important to learn the basics of how to shift gears. It's so simple, that once you catch on to it, you'll think, "Why in the world did that seem so complicated!". I know, because I once had the same problem in my youth!



At first, riding in the street seems to be a bit daunting. However, once you've gotten out there a few times, it's a cinch!

So TohTruck, do your have a driver's license?

You have to be aware of all the driving regulations, street, and traffic signs, if you're going to ride safely. Make certain that you either review or study the traffic and driving rules, regulations, and laws of New York, before venturing out onto any street.

Practice riding the sparsely populated suburban streets of New York, before attempting to take on the city. Actually sit down and plan with someone who has a driver's license, as to which routes to take and approximately how long it will take to traverse these routes. Then set out to execute your plan. Do this several times, gradually working your way towards the city with each trek, until you feel comfortable actually riding within the city. It might take awhile to really feel comfortable, but in time you will feel more comfortable.

Actually, I still feel a little nervous at times when traffic is heavy and people are driving wrecklessly to get to their destinations. I could only imagine how crazy New York must be. I've heard so many very awful things!

My advice, is to purchase that which is going to make you happy! There's no need to make a knee-jerk purchase out of frustration or any psycho-social pressure.


Yes TohTruck, you could settle for the Buzz One right now. If that's really what's in your heart, then do it! It will simplify things for certain. You could slowly learn mechanics on the fixie. You could become more acclimated to street-riding, getting exercise, and learning more about your likes and dislikes about various aspects of cycling.

If you feel that the Buzz One purchase will bring you more peace and happiness, then perhaps that's the way to go...

TohTruck, riding fast and keeping up with traffic, is for an experienced cyclist. For beginners, my advice, is to take it slow and easy. Keep to the right of traffic. Obey all traffic safety laws. Know the traffic signs. Keep a safe distance away from all moving vehicles. Watch for car doors opening, unexpectedly!

Of course, when I say "slow and easy". Riding too slow can be almost as dangerous as riding too fast when other cyclists are riding behind you and are force to pass you. They will pass you on your left. If they're polite, they will shout out, "On your left!". That will be your cue not to veer towards your left, while they're passing.
Make certain that you have a working bell, a helmet, and a lock!

- Slim :)

Tohtruck, go buy a bike. Do it now, quit thinking about it.

Yes, you can take the whole seat and seatpost with you when you lock it up (a bike without a seat no doubt is not as appealing to a thief looking to quickly nab a bike and ride off), but if that gets to be impractical, what is common in NYC is to run an old bike chain through an old inner tube, and that is run underneath the saddle rails and secured through the seat stays. There's a shop in NYC (NYC Velo) that invented this, and you can go and have it done on your bike.

http://dualcircles.files.wordpress.c...pg?w=490&h=653

Since you'll soon (hopefully!) be out riding and needing to lock up your bike, you should read up on proper locking:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html
http://www.ecovelo.info/2012/01/01/b...ng-strategies/
http://dmsantam.blogspot.com/2009/02...your-bike.html
http://www.802bikeguy.com/2011/07/th...king-strategy/

It may seem counter-intuitive, but a smaller u-lock can be better than a bigger one. U-locks are not completely theft-proof, and a bigger u-lock gives someone a better chance to apply leverage and pressure to pop it versus a smaller one.

The bike mechanic who came up with the bike chain seat lock idea did some videos for Streetsfilms.org grading bike locking jobs in New York. They're really entertaining and informative, and he's a great New York character.

Yes. There's something called "cross chaining". Say you're on the smallest chain ring on the crank, and on the smallest cog on the cassette in the back. You'll hear some noise from this, and while you may be able to pedal like this, it will be bad in the long run. This video gives you an idea of what's going on.

But it sounds like you're really not interested in having gears at this point. I know it's strange for me (a stranger on the net) to be saying this, but don't let someone talk you into something that you don't want! If you go into a shop and you tell them what you're thinking of getting and they try to talk you into something else, I'd take that as a bad sign. Who knows...maybe you will want a geared bike a little down the road if you get a single speed now. But you won't know that for sure until you actually start riding, and better to start out riding on a bike that you actually want and feel comfortable on versus one that intimidates you and means that you never actually get out on the road and ride!

Listen to your gut. It sounds like you want the Buzz One. Stop trying to talk yourself out of it! :D

I enjoyed the above post's link to streetfilms.org video by Hal from NY, about locking the bike outdoors. Thanks for the link, erg79.

Cheers. There are two other ones as well. Like I said, he's pretty entertaining, and they all have some good information.

I know I'm going blind and all, but I didn't see the OP's D.O.B. on his profile, nor do I recall him disclosing his age...

Tohtruck, got a question for ya- that chic at EMS who said she rode a fixie and that SS would be fine for NYC? Was she cute, a hottie, or HAWT?? ;) She sounds like she's got your back on this. :thumb:

No1mad, in post #120, TohTruck honestly admits that he's a kid. It really doesn't matter. I just wanted to remind BF members so that some person wouldn't unknowingly post something totally inappropriate.

Noticing cute girls and saying or declaring that they're, "Hawt" is absolutely within the interpretation of "PG"...Thanks! :thumb:

- Slim :)

Show me tits and ass! Use lots of profanity and talk about drugs, sex, and violence please!

No I am not a minor.

Yes, actually I just got my license a few months ago. I am an awful driver. It's something that I should really work on as I have had to turn down a few gigs that required me to drive a gigantic van. Seriously, I need to work on my driving. But cycling appeals to me more, it's more fun, environmentally sound, and more social.

Slim, thanks so much for the advice, as usual. I don't think I'm going to need to set up a rental appointment at Central Park. I think I'd rather just go for the free test ride with EMS over the weekend early in the morning when it is not busy. I realize I am being overly cautious, and I should just get on the damn thing and give it a go. Although, again, that weird gear and chain issue thing when I was on the trainer concerned me. But it was more so because it made me think that this thing might need more attention and maintenance than I am willing to provide on a regular basis.

Okay, good to know that its a good idea to take it slow when getting back on the street. Instinctively I felt this way, but logically I figured it would be safe to keep up with traffic.

Erg79, yeah I've seen that video before. Thanks for posting all the links, very helpful stuff. I will definitely look into getting a small chain for the saddle.

Yeah, when I was looking at the chain and the gears as I was shifting I started to think what the hell would happen if that chain ended up on the right most gear at the front casette and the left most gear at the cog?! Nevertheless, as I was playing around with it the fixie girl who was explaining it all to me didn't really mention anything about there being an issue with cross chaining, just that the front gears are sort of like the coarse adjustments and the rear gears are the fine-tuning adjustments.

I'm assuming the weird sounds I was hearing on the second gear at the front might have been an issue with cross chaining, except it sounded about 80 times worse than the sounds on the video, and it seemed to be happening no matter what rear gear I shifted to. Is that possibly a sign that I should not buy that particular bike?

no1mad, fixie girl was kind of cute. I wouldn't say I have a phixie for her, but I'd let her measure my sit bones.

erg79, yeah, the thing about that EMS was that it did seem a bit like they were pushing the geared bike option on me. Actually it was really just one particular employee, again I will stress that he was extremely nice, who seemed to really be selling it (except more sounding like he was trying to calm my insecurities about the potential purchase). But of course, naturally, they are salespeople. They're there to sell stuff. I actually asked if they had any single speed bikes the first time I stopped by and that EMS, for whatever reason, did not have any single speed/fixed gear bikes.

I'm probably going to meet up with my buddy who's an obsessive cycling enthusiast tomorrow, but yeah he's also highly suggesting that I go single speed as well.

Just remember TohTruck, at the end of the day, it will be your call. Who know's what the future may hold for us?

Cycling should be just much fun as it is utilitarian. It's always good to absorb information from others and to draw from their own experiences. However, you must follow your own drumbeat. You are about to venture into a sport that can most inevitably, thrill you to no end. It has all kinds of physical, mental, and spiritual benefits. An avid cyclist, has much greater potential to remain in excellent physical condition throughout his entire life span, if he can avoid injuries.

You therefore, need to embrace cycling for all the most selfish reasons. Cycling needs you too, because the last thing we need is another petro-driven vehicle on our cities streets! So, choose well, but choose for you, yourself, independently!

Now is a time to explore! Ride and mount everything. Make certain that you mount and ride a 26'er MTB, before you pull any trigger!

- Slim :)

PS.

For some reason, this is beginning to remind me of a time when I once had three girlfriends. They were all vying for first place. Little did any of them know, that I was eyeing another one, who seemed almost disinterested. It was the distant one who would eventually become my wife. There's nothing like witnessing emotions sprout from nothing to full bloom...I guess that's why people enjoy, gardening!

However, I must admit, the selection process was a lot of fun! There's just nothing like unbridled exploration and experimentation!

I know deep down inside cycling, walking, jogging, anything other than driving a vehicle somehow makes more sense to me. It's strange because, even though driving an automobile probably seems more practical to most people, it's not exactly coming naturally to me. Even though I'm absolutely sick of New York City, I'm incredible glad that I live in an environment where a person could realistically, and more than reasonably, get around without a car.

The interesting flip side to that is that I actually want to move out, almost everywhere else it would make sense to own a vehicle. However, chances are, even if I lived somewhere automobile-centric, I'd probably still be in this enthusiastic predicament of what bicycle should I buy. In other words, even if I was driving around, I'd probably still rather be walking/jogging/skating/riding a bicycle.

Hey Slim, why is it important that I try out a 26'er mountain bike? What's the significance exactly of the 26? Is that like the wheel diameter?

I e-mailed the links of the bicycles I am considering to my buddy who's really into cycling. I asked his opinion, and he liked the Felt Brougham, because it seems like it's most likely the lightest and the fastest. It definitely was the lightest, and I really liked that, but more so in the sense of carrying it up flights of stairs and manhandling it rather than going fast (not a huge priority for me at this stage in the game).

Slim, your 3-girlfriend predicament is a dilemma I could only dream about having one day. That's pretty awesome! I'm starting to think that maybe you're the dude I should be taking notes from on girl advice. You are the MAN!

Regarding the lawsuits and court cases that I posted up a couple posts ago, are those things that I should be concerned about?

Hey there TohTruck!

I personally think that the Felt Brougham is one of the coolest-looking single speeds ever! However, I also like the Raleigh Back Alley, the Schwinn Madison, and now, the Novara Buzz One, too. I particularly like the Buzz One, for its chromoly frame, the REI handlebar conversion policy, and the REI warranty, as well.

Though, I like all of these single-speeds. I feel that I understand the greater potential in a geared hybrid, both as a commuter and a recreational vehicle. Maybe, it's just my personal preference that only I can understand in my own peculiar way. Perhaps, the hybrid is just personal niche!

TohTruck, most guys should be able to lift forty pounds with both hands without a problem. Of course, it would be easier to lift twenty pounds, but what an extra twenty pounds for a young guy, in shape. The Coda weighs about twenty-seven pounds and should NOT be a challenge for you.

I wanted you to test-ride a 26 incher hardtail MTB, just so that you would have some frame of reference, when comparing other bikes and their rides, together. Also, 26'ers are closer to the ground and you may feel more confident riding a 26'er MTB given your BMX history. There's a possibility that you'll feel more comfortable on a MTB. That's all!

You know TohTruck, my take on most of those accidents is that they predominantly involved carbon fiber. Carbon fiber is construction dependent, and is usually successfully synthesized by most major bicycle manufacturers. However, there does seem to be an inordinant amount of CF failing these days. This is most likely proof of my position that CF is still somewhat, in a developmental state of transition.

- Slim :)

PS.

Insofar as members of the opposite sex goes, I must say, that I have acquired a quite valuable skill-set! :thumb:

Hey guys, sorry to resurrect this thread again, but I have a couple more questions and could use some help.

I decided to go with the Novara Buzz One from REI. Basically, I thought it felt the comfiest. It's also the safest investment, given their satisfaction guaranteed policy.

Although there were aspects about the Felt Brougham I liked. I figured I could just bring those aspects over to the Novara Buzz One. Specifically, I liked the geometry of the frame on the Novara Buzz One more than the Felt Brougham. I get to sit a bit more upright with the buzz one and the down-sloping incline/decline on the top tube makes me feel less self-conscious and paranoid about accidentally crushing my balls if I ever got into an accident.

On the Felt Brougham (aside from the look of the bicycle). I liked the flat narrow handlebars and the thinner road wheels.

Likewise, I plan on swapping the handlebars on the Buzz One. I'm going to go with the flat mountain bike handlebars that they have in stock. I plan on purchasing everything and getting all the work done when they have their Master Tech in the store. Apparently the idea is that they'll custom measure everything with the handlebar and my shoulders and arms so that it's comfy and just the way I like.

If anyone can offer any other info on how the whole handlebar thing works... like if there are any special rules or general guidelines I should follow when asking them to cut the handlebars. Like if the width of the handlebars should be about the same width as my shoulders etc. Any info at all is appreciated.


Okay, now the thing I really need more help on is the tires. The stock tires on the bike are thicker than the tires I tried out on the Felt Brougham and the Phat Cycles Phixie. I'd like to get thin tires like those bicycles. But I'm not sure what size to get, or how any of that works. For the most part, I'll probably just try and go over that stuff with one of the Master Tech's at REI, but I don't want to show up completely blind and clueless either.

Basically, one of the guys at the bicycle mechanics department told me that the stock tires on the Novara Buzz One are about $10 per tire. With that said, apparently, I get a $10 credit back for switching out the mustache handlebars in favor of the flat mountain bike handlebars. It seems like most of the tire replacements I have to choose from will be about $20-$30. So, in the end I end up paying an extra $5-$10 per tire replacement. CooL!

But I have no idea what to look for in buying tires nor do I know what brands to favor. Also, have no idea how the sizing goes and how that effects the ride exactly. I'm assuming the thinner tire I go, the faster the bicycle will be??? Or the thinner the tire, the more efficient it rides???

I'm not terribly concerned with going ridiculously fast, but efficiency (that is getting the most mileage per pedal) would be nice. Again, I'll re-iterate that I decided to just not get a geared bicycle. So although I appreciate the input, don't bother suggesting a geared bicycle.

I don't mind paying the extra little bit for the thinner tires, but I'm wondering how the more expensive tires compare to the less expensive ones (I'm assuming at this point the more expensive ones are more durable). Overall, I'd like to not spend that much more for the tire swap.

Here's a link to the bicycle I will be getting:

http://www.rei.com/product/808782/novara-buzz-one-bike-2012


Here's a link to some of the road tires I'm assuming I'll be able to choose from:

http://www.rei.com/search?page_size=...oad+Bike+Tires

Unless, I'm supposed to go with "city tires?"

http://www.rei.com/search?page_size=...0%3ACity+Tires

What do the different numbers represent? What does the 26-29 number range represent??? I'm assuming 700c represents air capacity??? What about the 23/25/28 numbers?

Also, a buddy of mine suggested that I go with a very thin tired in the front and a slightly thicker tire in the rear. I guess his rationale was that the thicker rear tire will be better for supporting my body weight and the bicycle's own hardware. Does that sound like a good idea? Or is that more of a headache?

Sorry for being a pest about this whole thing. I'm still learning. Any info and advice is greatly appreciated.

The handlebars- either let them measure and allow them to cut to their recommendation or start with the bar uncut and slowly move the grips/controls inboard a little at a time until you feel comfortable.

Just leave the stock tires on for now. Keep them properly inflated and they'll be fine.

Tohtruck--glad to hear you're going to get the Buzz One! The tire question is pretty easy--700 refers to the diameter of the tires, 700mm, which is pretty standard for road bikes. The second number refers to the width of the tire. 28-32 is common for most city bikes and commuters. Y

I looked up the Buzz One, and it's stock tires are 700x40--really wide! I looked up the Brougham, and it looks like it has a 23 in the front, and a 28 in the back. So your friend's idea goes along with what Felt has already done.

From REI's selection, I'd consider the Serfas Seca tire:

http://www.rei.com/product/724618/se...700-x-23-25-28

It has pretty good reviews online, especially as far as flats are concerned. Good luck!

Handlebars: The bars should be at least as wide as your shoulders, and typically a little wider on flat bars. I recommend ergonomic grips with integrated bar-ends (or separate bar-ends), which offer a comfortable alternative position for climbing/accelerating and just cruising.

Tires: The 700 refers to the wheel diameter. the other numbers relate to the width of the tire (25, 28, 32) in millimeters. The stock tires are 700x40, so 40mm wide. I personally prefer wider tires as there is little demonstrable benefit to using skinny tires (they're not that much "faster"), particularly for commuting, but if you want skinnier tires, I'd say start with 28's or 32's - very common widths.
A couple of key considerations for commuting tires are puncture protection and ride quality - finding the right mix can be a challenge. The more expensive ($45-$50 and above) commuting tires will typically have better puncture protection than less expensive models, but part of what you are paying for (whether you want it or not) is a lighter weight/foldable kevlar bead instead of a rigid bead (the lip that locks into the rim).

Anyway, I think you'll like that bike - it looks fun!

Hey there TohTruck,

Nice Choice on the Buzz One!

Here are just a couple of links to the master Sheldon Brown and his take on tires:

www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html

www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html

There are two names to remember in good tires:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKCSGbWbPyE
1) Specialized Armadillos

www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKspoKWRBac
2) Continental Gatorskins

Good Luck!

- Slim :)

PS.

You can't beat that warranty with REI ~ That's a no brainer! :thumb:

* TohTruck, always feel welcome here at BF. You're one of us now!

If your riding in NYC go for the puncture resistant tires as you will be alot less likely to flat. You should keep a spare tube with you just in case though. I have some Bontrager Race Lite Hardcase tires on my bike now which so far have not caused me any issue at all. Specialized Armidillos are also supposed to be very good to protect against flats, a co worker has them on his 7100 and he won't stop saying how great they are.

I would not get the Serfas Seca tire. IMO, the serfas seca survivor is a much better tire for only a little more money:
http://www.rei.com/product/793101/se...700-x-23-25-28

I use these or conti gatorskins on my bikes. You can often buy conti gatorskins in the low 30s if you google around. The specialized armadillos are heavy and run slow with only slightly better flat protection.

Thanks for the quick replies!

Okay, I'll just go by the recommendations of the mechanics/techs at REI when it comes to cutting the handlebars. I'll use a little wider than my shoulder width as a base guideline.

What are integrated bar-ends? LoL What are separate bar-ends? I was just going to pick out whatever looked/felt the best out of the grips that wouldn't cost me anything extra.

What exactly are the benefits of a wider tire over a skinnier tire?

Thanks for the explanations of tire sizing. Everything makes a crapload more sense now!

Yes, there appears to be quite a few positive reviews for the Serfas Seca tires. Also, according to the website, they are in stock and available at the SoHo REI location (where I plan on buying my bicycle).

Unfortunately, the Serfas Seca Survivor tires are not available at the SoHo REI location. They are out of stock according to the website.

Thanks for all the suggestions. According to the website, SoHo's REI has the Continental Gatorskins.

I'll take everyone's suggestions into consideration. But I think I might just go with the Serfas Seca (thanks for the suggestion Erg79)

I see the Gatorskins for around $30 on the internet. Very Cool, I suppose I'll get the Gatorskins when the Serfas Seca tires die on me. Hopefully by then I'll have some kind of understanding of cycle mechanics, and I'll take my bike and the Gatorskins in for a DIY project at the Bicycle Co-Op workshop.

* TohTruck, always feel welcome here at BF. You're one of us now!

YaY!, thanks Slim!

I have to say, I'm really floored by how helpful and nice everyone on this forum has been. I'm just not used to people being so kind and helpful over the internet. You guys really have no idea how great you all made this experience so far. I would have been clueless riding around on a $400 piece of junk (or not at all) if it weren't for everyone's input.

I feel so enthused for my upcoming purchase. I finally feel like I have a very clear cut and relatively precise idea of what I want.

Random OT: Any of you guys into meditation? Or psychedelics/entheogens?

Stay away from teh Road Cycling forum (the "41"); they are vicious in there :-) The commuting and hybrid forums aren't full of judgemental BS.

I see Novara commuter bikes at work. They look very durable and well made. The bike should last you for years! Can't wait to see pics of the modded bike.

Hey everyone, just posting up a quick update.

I stopped by REI today to try and get everything settled (in terms of what I'm going to be swapping, availability, etc.) before actually buying my bicycle and getting a rough estimate on the price.

Regarding the handlebar:

I'm just going to go by their guidelines and essentially get the bars measured and cut when I purchase the bicycle, hopefully this week. The Master Tech I spoke to today told me that the basic rule of thumb is to go no narrower than a little more than shoulder-width and/or waist width.

Regarding the tires:

I originally wanted to go with a 25 in the front and a 28 in the rear. He advised against going so skinny with the tires because they're going to end up being slightly skinnier than the rim of the Buzz One's stock wheels (and it ends up becoming somewhat of a safety hazard). Also, bigger wheels will absorb more shock. He actually recommended going 28 or 32 for both the front wheel and back wheel.

Also, regarding the difference in sizes between the front and rear (skinny front, slightly thicker rear was the original idea I was going for). He suggested that I just get them both the same size and it won't make much of a difference.

He liked the Serfas Seca road tire selection. In fact, he uses the same tires for his own bicycle and highly recommends them.

The Serfas Seca road tires only come in 23, 25, and 28. So I will probably go with 28 for both the front and rear.

Okay, so about handlebar grips...

He said I could swap out the grips for free as long as I choose grips that are no more than $8 or $9.

I'm not sure how to pick out grips or what exactly to look for. I figured I'd just pick whatever looks okay and feels interesting...???
Is there a science to picking out the right grips?

Here's some of the grips that I will be able to choose from:

http://www.rei.com/search?page_size=109&cat=4500003_Components&cat=4500112&cat=4500801&jxPrice=5%5E9.99&hist=cat%2C4500 003_Components%3AComponents%5Ecat%2C4500112%3ASteering+Components%5Ecat%2C4500801%3AHandlebar+Grips% 5EjxPrice%2C5%7E9.99&range=jxPrice


Based on my checking out these options at the store. I thought the Lizard Skins Northshore Dual Compound Grips felt the most interesting and potentially the most comfortable.

Does it really matter what grips I get?

Hi there TohTruck!

Tire size sounds good. However, I'd go with the Titec Hell-Bent grips!

Grips make a heck of a lotta difference!

When you cycle with good grips worn in conjuction with nice gloves, it accentuates the overall comfort level of the ride. Wearing the fingerless and padded gloves that match both your helmet and bicycle color-scheme, will also distinguish you as a discerning cyclist with good taste. Ladies kinda like that...

- Slim :)

What about the Titec Hell-Bent grips would make you want to go for them?
What is it about those particular grips that stand out to you? Especially in comparison with the other options on the REI website?

Essentially, I'm trying to figure out what to look for in grips.

I was also strongly considering the Hell-Bent grips. I was somewhat basing it on the fact that they seem to be a more anatomically correct shape. But I have no idea. The texture of the Lizard Skins Northshore Dual Compound Grips felt kind of nice. They also seemed to have kind of a denser feel to them.

So what kinds of things should a rider look for in choosing grips?

PS thanks for the suggested reading. I'm going to go look for those books.

I've been going to different free meditation classes from different organizations here in NYC and I'm trying to learn more and devise my own daily practice.