My Disc Trucker Build
#1
My Disc Trucker Build
Back in September 2011, my all-weather commuter bike (an old steel mountain bike with retrofitted drop bars) was destroyed in a collision with a car. Once my body was on the mend, I started turning my thoughts to what my next commuter bike would look like. Due to problems I had had with rims and sprockets getting gunked up with ice and snow during winter riding (thereby reducing braking and shifting abilities) I wanted a bike based around disc brakes and an internally geared hub. I'm also partial to drop bars. Such bikes do exist off the shelf (Civia Bryant for one), but they're expensive and hard to find around here. So, I thought I would try a custom build using an Alfine 8 speed hub and Avid BB7 brakes. When I discovered that Surly was introducing their Disc Trucker this year, I knew I had my frame.
The remaining parts were spec'd in collaboration with a very helpful guy at an LBS. The emphasis was on durability, not weight savings (note the big heavy mountain bike rims!)
Here's the Trucker:

It's still a work in progress - it's not neary Fredly enough yet to be a commuter bike. I still need to get fenders, install lights, and I may install a rack (though I don't mind using a backpack).
The only problem is the shifter. I know there's probably plenty of people on this forum who can say "I coulda told you that!" but IGH and friction shifters don't work well together. I was assured at the bike shop that people do that all the time, but it's not working for me. Not only do I have trouble locking it in a specific gear, the shifter also doesn't pull enough cable to get through all 8 gears - I can only access gears 1-6. I have this JTek 8-speed indexed shifter on order now; hopefully I'll get it next week, and then I can wrap my bars too.
The remaining parts were spec'd in collaboration with a very helpful guy at an LBS. The emphasis was on durability, not weight savings (note the big heavy mountain bike rims!)
Here's the Trucker:

It's still a work in progress - it's not neary Fredly enough yet to be a commuter bike. I still need to get fenders, install lights, and I may install a rack (though I don't mind using a backpack).
The only problem is the shifter. I know there's probably plenty of people on this forum who can say "I coulda told you that!" but IGH and friction shifters don't work well together. I was assured at the bike shop that people do that all the time, but it's not working for me. Not only do I have trouble locking it in a specific gear, the shifter also doesn't pull enough cable to get through all 8 gears - I can only access gears 1-6. I have this JTek 8-speed indexed shifter on order now; hopefully I'll get it next week, and then I can wrap my bars too.
#5
#7
Intrepid Bicycle Commuter
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 819
Likes: 95
From: Upstate New York
Bikes: 1976 Motobecane Grand Jubile, Austro Daimler 'Ultima', 2012 Salsa Vaya, 2009 Trek 4300, Fyxation Eastside, State Matte Black 6, '97 Trek 930 SHX, '93 Specialized Rockhopper, 1990 Trek 950
Sweet bike!!!!
#9
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 531
Likes: 0
Thank you for building a LHT without a mile of spacers under the stem, or a mile of seatpost showing, or the bars tilted way back in the stem so the brake levers look like fangs. This seems to be a theme of Trucker builds I've seen lately.
#10
I can't seem to figure out how to do that. Sometimes, that stupid ad in the first post will shrink everything else - if I expand my browser window width-wise, the image gets a bit bigger. In Chrome, you can also right-click the picture and open it in a new tab (no equivalent in IE that I can see.) Or maybe this will be better (click to view larger):
#11
Last edited by groovestew; 05-16-12 at 12:46 PM.
#12
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 22,676
Likes: 2,642
From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
#14
www.ocrebels.com
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 6,186
Likes: 8
From: Los Angeles area
Bikes: Several bikes, Road, Mountain, Commute, etc.
Very nice build! Should be super comfortable, hard core maintenence-free and last for many years of constant commuting!
Excellent choice of components too.
Rick / OCRR
Excellent choice of components too.
Rick / OCRR
#15
The bike is finally finished, since I got my indexed shifter on Friday and got it installed on the weekend. I fredded the bike up with fenders and a rack and wrapped the bars. Took it on a test commute this morning, and the shifter seems to work really well (way better than friction), but there might still be some minor adjustments required, as a few times there was some gear skipping.
Here's the completed bike:

Closeup of the shifter:

Closeup of the rear hub assembly (ahh, a clean chain! That won't last long...). Had to use a tensioner (Surly Singleator) because of the vertical dropouts. I would have liked to install it in "push-up" mode, but the shifting mechanism on the hub (hidden by the chainstay) got in the way.
Here's the completed bike:

Closeup of the shifter:

Closeup of the rear hub assembly (ahh, a clean chain! That won't last long...). Had to use a tensioner (Surly Singleator) because of the vertical dropouts. I would have liked to install it in "push-up" mode, but the shifting mechanism on the hub (hidden by the chainstay) got in the way.
#16
Looks good! It's a freaking sweet frameset. I love mine. Except it's really meant to use downtube cable stops so a full length shifter cable is a bit, um... less than elegant, but there isn't much you can do. Enjoy!
Minor nit picks: front fender might need a bit tweaking, isn't the saddle too far back?
Minor nit picks: front fender might need a bit tweaking, isn't the saddle too far back?
#17
Thanks for the compliments Adam. I used the pictures and other info on your Trucker that you posted here as reference a few times.
Yup.
I noticed how goofy the fender looked only after looking at the picture; will try to make it a bit prettier. On the disc-brake side, I don't have a lot of extra length on the fender stays, so I don't know how much adjusting I can do.
The saddle is pretty far back, but I set the bike up as close as possible to another bike I have that I do 300 km rides on. That saddle position puts my knee slightly behind the pedal spindle, which works great on my other bike. There will likely be some tweaking here and there as I ride it more. I think I need to rotate the bars up slightly.
The saddle is pretty far back, but I set the bike up as close as possible to another bike I have that I do 300 km rides on. That saddle position puts my knee slightly behind the pedal spindle, which works great on my other bike. There will likely be some tweaking here and there as I ride it more. I think I need to rotate the bars up slightly.
#18
GATC

Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,840
Likes: 186
From: south Puget Sound
Nice job!
#19
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 458
Likes: 0
From: Durham, NC
Bikes: LHT + FreeRadical
#20
Yeah, you notice things when you look at the photo of the bike. It happened to me too
If it fits you and the ride feels good and comfortable then that's what matters.
Oh, I just noticed another thing: can't you run the shifter cable under the tape all the way up to the flats? It seems it would interfere with your ability to grab the drops with your hands, as it is now, and may break the tape too. I don't know much about drop bars and bar end shifters (not my favorite) but does yours have the groove for that?
If it fits you and the ride feels good and comfortable then that's what matters.Oh, I just noticed another thing: can't you run the shifter cable under the tape all the way up to the flats? It seems it would interfere with your ability to grab the drops with your hands, as it is now, and may break the tape too. I don't know much about drop bars and bar end shifters (not my favorite) but does yours have the groove for that?
Last edited by AdamDZ; 06-04-12 at 10:58 AM.
#21
Compared to the 700X23 tires on my road bike, those 26X1.5s look huge! Don't worry, I have some nice fat studded knobbies for winter riding. ...can't you run the shifter cable under the tape all the way up to the flats? It seems it would interfere with your ability to grab the drops with your hands, as it is now, and may break the tape too. I don't know much about drop bars and bar end shifters (not my favorite) but does yours have the groove for that?
#23
I did a Surly cc w/ a Shimano tensioner so I could run a double chainring with the 8sp hub. With the tires I had on the bike, 32s I think?, I ran the shifter cable to the downtube stop and then just cable, no housing, all the way back to the hub, routing the cable through the stop on the hub. Worked great, looked clean.
#24
The bike this one is replacing had the shifter cables run as you suggest, and it worked fine. I kinda tried that on the Trucker, but with the two sharp bends, the cable didn't glide through the housing nearly as well as with one gradual bend, hence the final product. Seems like a lot of bikes with bar-end shifters are set up the way I did it (that's how Surly themselves do it on their complete bikes). If the bar tape starts ripping, I have lots of PVC tape to fix it up with! 





