Okay, I need a little help. I had to remove my rack a couple of weeks back because the bolt on the lower, non-drive side decided it didn't want to work anymore and bailed. Riding home with the fender and rack stays rubbing against each other was noisy and potentially dangerous. Worse, I had just traded off a backpack for a trunk bag less than 2 weeks prior.

My bike has only one eyelet on the rear triangle that the fender and rack shared. However, I suspect that the eyelet where the bolt went MIA may now be partially stripped. I say this because the replacement bolt that is holding the fender in place has to be tightened about once a week. The added weight/stress of running a rack at the same time would probably lead to a repeat performance.

I've thought about just sucking it up and forego the rack altogether, but: I do have a trunk bag that's not being used, b) I've got a B&M Toplight 4D that is also not being used, and c) it's getting warmer. I've found this kit on Amazon, and think that it should work so that I can use the rack/trunk/light again.

If anyone has any other ideas, I'm open to suggestions.

Go to the hardware store ace is the place show them what your problem is they will have you rolling in no time I LOVE ACE Hardware They can maybe suggest a piece a flat steel for support which they sell there too. good luck

Take your bike to them they will come out and look at it.

I agree. The local hardware store is great with this type of stuff. They usually don't cost any more then the big box home improvement stores and you get great service.

If the threads are stripped, it's relatively simple to have them retapped.

The bolt you need is almost certainly a 5mm diameter; I'd guess maybe 20mm long or so. Since the bolt in question is on the NDS, you likely have plenty of room to use a longer bolt that will extend through the braze-on. Get a nylock nut and put it on the inside of the dropout to secure the bolt. That way, you won't be relying upon the threads in the braze-on to keep everything tight.

I would try to have the strut for the rack next to the dropout, and the fender braces outboard of the rack strut, if that arrangement is feasible on your bike. That will minimize the bending forces on the bolt. You might want to get a fender washer (large diameter flat washer) to go underneath the bolt head. Sometimes fender braces don't provide a good bearing surface for bolt heads.

You could also chase the threads in the braze-on with a 5mm tap if a bolt won't thread through easily.

when I have to share a bolt between fenders and rack, I run the bolt in from the inside (hub side) on the non-drive side. Then I put the rack on, then a nut, then the fenders, then another nut. Washers are never a bad idea, and the outer nut can be a nylock nut as suggested above. On the drive side, I run the bolt in from the outside, but I use two nuts, one to hold the rack on, and the other to tighten down the fender. I think my method might require 30mm bolts depending on the fenders and rack.

Okay, I guess I'll go hit the Ace tomorrow and see if I can find some nuts/bolts/washers that will work. If not, I'm going with Amazon.

Bike Shop has the 5x.8mm standard tap.. but you can get a 5mm bolt
run it thru, and put a nut on the inside..

but make sure the right side bolt stays tight enough
you cannot back it up with a nut, after stripping it by letting the bolt rattle loose..

You could also just drill and retap to a larger bolt size.

I think I'll just order that kit from Amazon. I came across this mount online last night and I think I'm going to attempt to mount a flashlight with a red LED to it on the non drive side and I don't think the bolt is long enough to secure a rack and fender at the same time. Got to do some quick measurements before placing the order for the light and a mount for it to attach to that 'stub', as I'm pretty sure my LBS can get me the Origin-8 thingy.