Doesn't size really matter?
#1
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commu*ist spy
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: oregon
Doesn't size really matter?
size of the frame of course. I'm 6'1 and when I refer to online sizing charts, it says I'm suited for 58 cm. I've only got bikes from craigslist, and my current 2 bikes are both 54 cm. My first road bike from craigslist was 62 or 64 cm I think, and the bar would hit my balls every time my feet touch the ground, so I had to tilt the frame whenever I stopped. So is frame size an exclusively comfort issue, or are there more to it? Smaller frames would be lighter, and will probably be more comfortable too since they allow you to be more upright. How tall are you, and what size is your bike frame?
#3
Stand over is only part of the equation. Crank arm length, BB height, seat tube angle, top tube angle and length, stem length/angle, and others...
I'm right around 6' and ride a 22" frame that's rolling on 26" wheels. If the same frame where on 700c/29er, I probably wouldn't be able to clear the top tube. As is, the reach is a bit too far forward (per a different LBS than the one who sold me my bike based upon the standover test).
Unless you live off in BFE, you should spend some time perusing what the LBS has to offer. Your body will be way more helpful in determining what 'fits' more than some text on a screen.
I'm right around 6' and ride a 22" frame that's rolling on 26" wheels. If the same frame where on 700c/29er, I probably wouldn't be able to clear the top tube. As is, the reach is a bit too far forward (per a different LBS than the one who sold me my bike based upon the standover test).
Unless you live off in BFE, you should spend some time perusing what the LBS has to offer. Your body will be way more helpful in determining what 'fits' more than some text on a screen.
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#4
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commu*ist spy
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From: oregon
well in my opinion, you won't know what's more comfortable until you've ridden it for 20+ minutes. jumping off a 54 and onto a 56 in a LBS probably won't tell you which one is more comfortable.
#5
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From: Bay Area, Calif.
Also 6' and currently ride a couple 60cm road bikes. Both were obtained used - if buying new I probably would have been looking more at 58 cm frames. But there's more to the fit than just overall height and seat tube length. Proportions vary and someone with long legs is likely to prefer a little longer seat tube compared to someone of the same height but a longer torso. And the effective top tube length is a big consideration. Minor variations in size can be compensated for by adjusting the stem height and extension.
In my case I test rode both bikes and satisfied myself that they were comfortable for me despite being a little larger than the usual fit formulas would specify.
In my case I test rode both bikes and satisfied myself that they were comfortable for me despite being a little larger than the usual fit formulas would specify.
#6
This topic isn't discussed much here but is almost beaten to death in the road forum.
I'm 5'9" and like to ride with 64-66cm of combined effective top tube & stem length. Of my 2 commuters and road bike, they are categorized as 52, 52 & 51cm frames respectively but all are right around 54cm effective top tube.
I'm 5'9" and like to ride with 64-66cm of combined effective top tube & stem length. Of my 2 commuters and road bike, they are categorized as 52, 52 & 51cm frames respectively but all are right around 54cm effective top tube.
#7
And like prathmann said- you're proportions come into play as well. He's my height and rides a couple of 60cm bikes- and I had ZERO clearance when I swung a leg over a 2012 Raleigh Cadent FT1 in a 56.
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#8
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From: West Georgia
Bikes: K2 Mod 5.0 Roadie, Fuji Commuter
I looked at the online size charts and thought that the 17.5 hybrid that I bought would be the ticket. I'm not big and only have a 31" inseam. The size guides said that it would be perfect for me. They also said that when standing flat footed that there should be about a 1" space between the top tube and the crotch.
I have the seat post almost at the bottom of the adjustment and were I female the 1" clearance would probably be there.
Show much for "canned" formulas.
I have the seat post almost at the bottom of the adjustment and were I female the 1" clearance would probably be there.

Show much for "canned" formulas.
#9
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Actually, smaller frames force you to raise the saddle and expose more seat post. As saddle height rises relative to the handlebars, you are forced into a more aggressive LESS upright position.
#11
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Aerodynamic may not be comfortable. Depends on your mobility. If you lack flexibility or commute with a backpack or messenger bag, an aerodynamic position may wreak havoc on your back.
Depends on how short you cut your steerer tube. You may or may not be able to move some spacers around and raise the stem. You could buy a new stem that is longer and has a larger rise angle but drastic changes in stem size/length to make a small frame fit will change how the bike handles.
Bottom line. You can ride any bike as long as your feet reach the pedals. But, a properly sized frame will put your body in the best position for good bike handling and efficient pedaling.
Depends on how short you cut your steerer tube. You may or may not be able to move some spacers around and raise the stem. You could buy a new stem that is longer and has a larger rise angle but drastic changes in stem size/length to make a small frame fit will change how the bike handles.
Bottom line. You can ride any bike as long as your feet reach the pedals. But, a properly sized frame will put your body in the best position for good bike handling and efficient pedaling.
Last edited by mtb123; 08-12-12 at 11:29 PM.
#13
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commu*ist spy
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From: oregon
ok. since the saddle is a direct extension of the seat tube and the stem is a direct extension of the head tube, it really shouldn't matter what size as long as it's within reasonable range, right? so if you want to go from 54 cm to 58 cm, just raise the saddle by 4 cm, which isn't a crazy change at all
#14
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Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Online fitting charts are a rough guide for most, and garbage for the rest. I'm 5'8" and 58cm bikes feel best to me -- I feel cramped on anything smaller.
#16
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From: SF Bay Area
Bikes: 2012 Specialized Sirrus
When I test rode bicycles, the 19" frame stretched me out too much. The 17" frame fit nicely, though I think one size in between may work too. I am 5'10". Haven't tried road bikes though.
#17
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From: Mountain View, CA USA and Golden, CO USA
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ok. since the saddle is a direct extension of the seat tube and the stem is a direct extension of the head tube, it really shouldn't matter what size as long as it's within reasonable range, right? so if you want to go from 54 cm to 58 cm, just raise the saddle by 4 cm, which isn't a crazy change at all
I ride a 55cm frame with 120mm stem. I'd want a 146mm stem for the 53cm model but might be able to live with a 140 which is the longest commonly available. Two sizes smaller I'd need a 161mm stem which is not available.
I'd also have to hunt around for a super-setback seat post to make the smaller frames work.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 08-13-12 at 01:16 PM.
#18
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From: St. Louis, MO
Bikes: Kona Dew
+1 on trying out bikes at the LBS. While you might not get as much of a feel as you would on a 20 mile ride, it can still tell you a great deal. For example, I was looking for a new commuter bike recently. I tried comparable bikes from Raleigh, Trek, and Kona - all labeled 58 cm. The Raleigh felt cramped, the Trek was ok but the Kona felt great. These were all lower end hybrids with 700c wheels. Needless to say, I'm now riding a Kona Dew
#19
ok. since the saddle is a direct extension of the seat tube and the stem is a direct extension of the head tube, it really shouldn't matter what size as long as it's within reasonable range, right? so if you want to go from 54 cm to 58 cm, just raise the saddle by 4 cm, which isn't a crazy change at all

Anyway, bikes are made to be adjustable, so my opinion is ride what works for you
#20
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: 1996 Litespeed Classic, 2006 Trek Portland, 2013 Ribble Winter/Audax, 2016 Giant Talon 4
Besides standover, frame size contributes mainly to bike handling by keeping the wheels in the right place under the rider to position the rider's center-of-gravity properly. Yes, you can mess around with stems and seatposts to make frame fit, but handling gets wonky if the stem is too long or too short, and if the saddle is too far forward or aft relative to the BB, because the rider is in the wrong place relative to the wheels.
Advertized frame sizes can be misleading too since different manufacturers and even different models by a manufacturer use different relationships between the seat tube and top tube lengths. Once upon a time, they were all "square", meaning a 58cm seat tube got you a 58cm top tube. Not any more. I own two Treks (a 56cm Portland and a 58cm 1000) and they each have a 565mm top tube, as do my 56cm Schwinn Peloton and 57cm Litespeed Classic.
Rider proportions also need to be factored in when selecting frame size. I'm all legs. If I were sized just by my inseam, I'd ride a 60cm and it would be far too big. You'll notice from above that all my bikes are sized by the top tube (565mm) for my short torso. As a consequence, all my bikes all show lots of seatpost with little setback. It doesn't look fashionable, (longer stems and more seatpost setback are fashionable) but my wheels are in the right place relative to my center-of-gravity.
Advertized frame sizes can be misleading too since different manufacturers and even different models by a manufacturer use different relationships between the seat tube and top tube lengths. Once upon a time, they were all "square", meaning a 58cm seat tube got you a 58cm top tube. Not any more. I own two Treks (a 56cm Portland and a 58cm 1000) and they each have a 565mm top tube, as do my 56cm Schwinn Peloton and 57cm Litespeed Classic.
Rider proportions also need to be factored in when selecting frame size. I'm all legs. If I were sized just by my inseam, I'd ride a 60cm and it would be far too big. You'll notice from above that all my bikes are sized by the top tube (565mm) for my short torso. As a consequence, all my bikes all show lots of seatpost with little setback. It doesn't look fashionable, (longer stems and more seatpost setback are fashionable) but my wheels are in the right place relative to my center-of-gravity.
Last edited by tsl; 08-13-12 at 06:16 PM. Reason: typoze
#21
Pedal Pusher/Pundit
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From: Hutchinson/Minneapolis, MN
Bikes: Polygon Strattos
I'm between sizes.
I'm about 5'5.5" and ride a 18 inch raleigh Talus MTB. It's slight bit big, but the next size down felt too small. An 18" Trek 820 is far too big, the 16" too small. Then again I'm built like a fire hydrant, short arms, thick legs and longer torso.
I'm about 5'5.5" and ride a 18 inch raleigh Talus MTB. It's slight bit big, but the next size down felt too small. An 18" Trek 820 is far too big, the 16" too small. Then again I'm built like a fire hydrant, short arms, thick legs and longer torso.
#22
I stand 5'11" with a 34" inseam (standover, not pant length) so most charts put me at a 52-54cm frame, but as mentioned above so much more comes into play. My touring bike is a 54 cm (21 inch) Trek 700 frame with a slightly setback seatpost and a 90mm stem with a 30-degree upward angle (flatbar) and it fits me perfectly as a touring or general purpose commuter. I also have a trail bike based on a Trek 700 frame but with a 47 cm (18.5 inch) frame a more setback seatpost, 110 mm stem and a 1 inch rise and slight sweep to the bar. This gives me a more upright position, excellent for standing while making tight corners. Still pretty comfortable, I rode it 18 miles of mixed paved and gravel the other day with no complaint, but wouldn't be my first choice for touring and it's definately not a road bike. Makes a good cruiser/commuter though.
I've tried many road, touring, hybrids and hardtails and can say that the "ideal" size for me falls over a several cm range depending on geometry, set up, and intended riding style.
I've tried many road, touring, hybrids and hardtails and can say that the "ideal" size for me falls over a several cm range depending on geometry, set up, and intended riding style.
#23
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Advertized frame sizes can be misleading too since different manufacturers and even different models by a manufacturer use different relationships between the seat tube and top tube lengths. Once upon a time, they were all "square", meaning a 58cm seat tube got you a 58cm top tube. Not any more. I own two Treks (a 56cm Portland and a 58cm 1000) and they each have a 565mm top tube, as do my 56cm Schwinn Peloton and 57cm Litespeed Classic.
This makes sense too, if you consider that bikes are made for a fairly narrow range of body sizes and that some of those parameters are more easily adjusted than others.
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Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#24
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I am 6' tall and ride a 54cm frame. I have the seat and handlebars in an agressive position, but the I clear the top tube by a large margin. If I were to buy a new bike, I would buy a 58cm or 60cm frame. I am flexible, but the larger frame is much more comfortable.
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