Settle a feud - road or hybrid for a new commuter?
#1
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Settle a feud - road or hybrid for a new commuter?
So my only real experience riding a bike is the old paint-stripped Wally World mountain bike-thing I fished out of a dumpster and slapped a new back wheel on. It's safe to say:
https://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m3...m6fo1_1280.gif
It's to the point where there's a crack in the welds where the frame is welded to the shaft the handlebars are secured in, half the gears on the cogset skip and are missing a few teeth and the front doesn't shift, the front wheel was warping and grinding against the front fork. I tried replacing the wheel, rim brakes and replaced the cables, but now they won't move and I've no idea how to fix them now so I have to brake with my shoe; it's also a very heavy bike, heavier than most mountain bikes and the local shops by 10 pounds at least. I'm not putting any more money into it, I'm just going to scrap it - I've been wanting a new, much lighter bike since I got it four years ago. I've been having to commute to work now that my old ride has a job that conflicts with my schedule. The commute is only 6 miles but [these angles are horribly estimated] roughly 90% hills with inclines greater than 8 degrees both ways with two 150 foot 25 degree inclines each way, and no sidewalks or bike lanes for half of it. Probably nothing to experienced bikers but all my strength is from pushing machine dies on and off roll-carts so my quads need some work. I also have to share it with freight trucks at 4 in the morning. It's a literal pain on that old rust-bucket. I asked a few friends about what kind of bike to get and where, and accidentally started a war.
One tribe is convinced there is nothing a road bike doesn't do, and no bike is a true bike unless it's a road bike. They make good points about weight, and I did ride a Schwinn road bike on a dirt path through the woods for a year or so; no idea what kind or what tires it had though. The other camp says hybrid bikes, because a road bike wouldn't survive the glass, gravel, old freight truck parts and branches left on the truck routes, and that going from gravel to road and up hills I should be getting something heartier than a bike made for "going a few blocks in flat, bike-friendly neighborhoods". I also have a bad back and have a hard time bending over as far as the road bikes I've seen require. One guy said I should strap a motor to a cruiser trike, but that would count as a motorcycle according to local bike laws. Tempting though.
So what would experienced commuters recommend for getting around these underdeveloped foothills in the industrial sector? I'm not as worried about trucks, because I've found them to be more agreeable to bike traffic than cars, but I still need to swerve at least twice a morning. At least I had the sense to strap lights to it. Feel free to openly lambast me and the question, I fully intend to pay attention in bicycle class here and U. of Wikipedia upon procuring better product.
https://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m3...m6fo1_1280.gif
It's to the point where there's a crack in the welds where the frame is welded to the shaft the handlebars are secured in, half the gears on the cogset skip and are missing a few teeth and the front doesn't shift, the front wheel was warping and grinding against the front fork. I tried replacing the wheel, rim brakes and replaced the cables, but now they won't move and I've no idea how to fix them now so I have to brake with my shoe; it's also a very heavy bike, heavier than most mountain bikes and the local shops by 10 pounds at least. I'm not putting any more money into it, I'm just going to scrap it - I've been wanting a new, much lighter bike since I got it four years ago. I've been having to commute to work now that my old ride has a job that conflicts with my schedule. The commute is only 6 miles but [these angles are horribly estimated] roughly 90% hills with inclines greater than 8 degrees both ways with two 150 foot 25 degree inclines each way, and no sidewalks or bike lanes for half of it. Probably nothing to experienced bikers but all my strength is from pushing machine dies on and off roll-carts so my quads need some work. I also have to share it with freight trucks at 4 in the morning. It's a literal pain on that old rust-bucket. I asked a few friends about what kind of bike to get and where, and accidentally started a war.
One tribe is convinced there is nothing a road bike doesn't do, and no bike is a true bike unless it's a road bike. They make good points about weight, and I did ride a Schwinn road bike on a dirt path through the woods for a year or so; no idea what kind or what tires it had though. The other camp says hybrid bikes, because a road bike wouldn't survive the glass, gravel, old freight truck parts and branches left on the truck routes, and that going from gravel to road and up hills I should be getting something heartier than a bike made for "going a few blocks in flat, bike-friendly neighborhoods". I also have a bad back and have a hard time bending over as far as the road bikes I've seen require. One guy said I should strap a motor to a cruiser trike, but that would count as a motorcycle according to local bike laws. Tempting though.
So what would experienced commuters recommend for getting around these underdeveloped foothills in the industrial sector? I'm not as worried about trucks, because I've found them to be more agreeable to bike traffic than cars, but I still need to swerve at least twice a morning. At least I had the sense to strap lights to it. Feel free to openly lambast me and the question, I fully intend to pay attention in bicycle class here and U. of Wikipedia upon procuring better product.
Last edited by SmilingAhab; 09-06-12 at 09:59 PM. Reason: clearance
#2
The answer is simple. Whatever bike fits, does the task at hand, and you can afford- everything else is gravy. Since you're used to riding that BSO, even the heavier entry level whatever from the LBS will feel lighter in comparison.
Establish a budget and then go test ride everything within that price range (though I'd skip the fixies and the SS types), regardless of the bars and controls.
Establish a budget and then go test ride everything within that price range (though I'd skip the fixies and the SS types), regardless of the bars and controls.
#3
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Joined: Jun 2012
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From: SF Bay Area
Bikes: 2012 Specialized Sirrus
No perfect answer I guess. I came from Wallyworld type of bikes too, so I found that a hybrid suited me more, at least for now. The upright position helps me look around more easily. For the rest - you will find road bikes that are capable of anything (think Cyclocross). I couldn't afford one though. That is the other part of the story - you can get a good entry level hybrid for $500, but cyclocross bikes start at about $900.
My next bike may be a bike with dropbars (and I don't mean a racing carbon) - maybe something steel. If someone gave me a old, steel Raleigh/Nishiki/Centurion, that would be good enough for me
. A second hand classic can be had for anything between $150 to $350.
My next bike may be a bike with dropbars (and I don't mean a racing carbon) - maybe something steel. If someone gave me a old, steel Raleigh/Nishiki/Centurion, that would be good enough for me
. A second hand classic can be had for anything between $150 to $350.
#5
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Most of them haven't been repaved since the 80's and a half mile "bike lane" of one of them is some pretty pot-holed gravel. Never swept the whole distance, usually leftovers from the week's collision strewed about. Lots of glass. I have to drag the occasional branch or fallen tree part out of the lanes. I've never heard of cyclocross, I'll have to look at some models tomorrow.
So I've got a $500 max budget for everything, to answer no1mad's point.
So I've got a $500 max budget for everything, to answer no1mad's point.
#7
Mostly harmless ™
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,463
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From: Novi Sad
Bikes: Heavy, with friction shifters
I ride both.
Road bike rides quicker, nicer, more comfy (in spite of thin tyres etc).
Hybrid is a lot more relaxed. I can take ANY shortcut with it, not worry about bad pavement. I can carry more stuff on hybrid. It's better for poor weather.
So 80% of the commute time it is the hybrid, with road bike being more for fun and fitness rides, group rides etc.
Road bike rides quicker, nicer, more comfy (in spite of thin tyres etc).
Hybrid is a lot more relaxed. I can take ANY shortcut with it, not worry about bad pavement. I can carry more stuff on hybrid. It's better for poor weather.
So 80% of the commute time it is the hybrid, with road bike being more for fun and fitness rides, group rides etc.
#8
Banned
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: England / CPH
Bikes: 2010 Cube Acid / 2013 Mango FGSS
i would get something like this:
700c
shimano hydraulic discs
mounts for racks/fenders front and rear
moderate trekking front suspension for urban areas that is adjustable and lockable
48T up front
11T-34T on back
maybe throw some Egron grips on and run it until it breaks.
500€ in super expensive europe.
https://www.biker-boarder.de/shopware...-Groesse-46-cm
if you're in the US, a Specialized Sirrus is close, but more slightly expensive without front suspension.
700c
shimano hydraulic discs
mounts for racks/fenders front and rear
moderate trekking front suspension for urban areas that is adjustable and lockable
48T up front
11T-34T on back
maybe throw some Egron grips on and run it until it breaks.
500€ in super expensive europe.
https://www.biker-boarder.de/shopware...-Groesse-46-cm
if you're in the US, a Specialized Sirrus is close, but more slightly expensive without front suspension.
Last edited by acidfast7; 09-04-12 at 12:53 AM.
#9
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I'd look into 'commuter' or 'urban' style bikes that are a good mix between road and hybrid. They're better described as a suped version of a road bike: they are lightweight like most road bikes, have more aggressive geometry like road bikes, but they have clearance for wIder tires (better traction, comfier, and more durable) and points on the rear stays for rack attachments, which most road bikes don't have. they can have either flat or drop bars, depending on what you like.
#10
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From: NoVA
Bikes: Specialized Allez Sport
#11
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From: California
Bikes: 2012 Civia Prospect, 2012 Specialized Sirrus Sport, 199x Canondale M800
i would get something like this:
700c
shimano hydraulic discs
mounts for racks/fenders front and rear
moderate trekking front suspension for urban areas that is adjustable and lockable
48T up front
11T-34T on back
maybe throw some Egron grips on and run it until it breaks.
500€ in super expensive europe.
https://www.biker-boarder.de/shopware...-Groesse-46-cm
if you're in the US, a Specialized Sirrus is close, but more slightly expensive without front suspension.
700c
shimano hydraulic discs
mounts for racks/fenders front and rear
moderate trekking front suspension for urban areas that is adjustable and lockable
48T up front
11T-34T on back
maybe throw some Egron grips on and run it until it breaks.
500€ in super expensive europe.
https://www.biker-boarder.de/shopware...-Groesse-46-cm
if you're in the US, a Specialized Sirrus is close, but more slightly expensive without front suspension.
The cyclecross type of bike may work for you if you want drops, but seems out of your budget.
#12
We won't settle that feud here, since either kind of bike is fine depending on what you like. Or a mountain bike, cross, or touring bike.
If it was me, having the commute you describe, I'd go with a hybrid or mountain bike but it has to be light for walking up that 25 degree incline.
If it was me, having the commute you describe, I'd go with a hybrid or mountain bike but it has to be light for walking up that 25 degree incline.
#13
Old, but not really wise
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Fairfax, VA commuting to Washington DC
Bikes: 2010 Kona Dew Drop (the daily driver),'07 Specialized Roubaix (the sports car), '99 ish Kona NuNu MTB (the SUV), Schwinn High Plains (circa 1992?) (the beater)
Assuming for the moment that your incline description is not meant to be technical, and given that you've been riding it on your clapped out beater, which you've been fixing yourself, and you've stated a budget of $500, I think you have a number of options:
#1 if I had a budget of $500 the first thing I'd consider is looking for 2 used bikes on CL -- one hybrid/MTB and one more road oriented. Hold the MTB option close to $150 (or even less - usually not that hard to do), and give yourself $300 for a road bike (be patient... they're out there). expect to use the other $50 or so for repairs/replacements of some stuff. But look for complete, fully running condition, no real problems bikes.
#2 If you are committed to a new bike, shop for a good local shop, first. Then work with them to figure out what bike will best suit your needs, riding conditions etc... (and, of course, you and your budget).
#3 Consider a nice Cyclocross bike from Bikes Direct: https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/cross_bikes.htm They have several offerings for $500 or less, including a couple right at 500 (before tax, shipping? etc...) that have disc brakes.
#1 if I had a budget of $500 the first thing I'd consider is looking for 2 used bikes on CL -- one hybrid/MTB and one more road oriented. Hold the MTB option close to $150 (or even less - usually not that hard to do), and give yourself $300 for a road bike (be patient... they're out there). expect to use the other $50 or so for repairs/replacements of some stuff. But look for complete, fully running condition, no real problems bikes.
#2 If you are committed to a new bike, shop for a good local shop, first. Then work with them to figure out what bike will best suit your needs, riding conditions etc... (and, of course, you and your budget).
#3 Consider a nice Cyclocross bike from Bikes Direct: https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/cross_bikes.htm They have several offerings for $500 or less, including a couple right at 500 (before tax, shipping? etc...) that have disc brakes.
#14
The aforementioned Bikes Direct option? Their home page plainly states that they don't collect sales tax in 49 States and free shipping to the lower 48.
Personally, I think that the BD prices are attractive, but I'm more of 'try before you buy' kinda guy...
Personally, I think that the BD prices are attractive, but I'm more of 'try before you buy' kinda guy...
#15
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
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In that mass of text , I gathered you are doing riding in the Dark to get to work.
I rave about hub dynamo front wheels, now that I have one..
wired LED tail and headlights,
mean never having a battery drain half way home, because,
the recharge cycle limit was crossed, or you forgot to charge it up,
the last time you came home.
the hybrid/vs road thing is about riding posture dictated by handle bar type choice.
Some bike shop test rides, will help you feel that out.
I rave about hub dynamo front wheels, now that I have one..
wired LED tail and headlights,
mean never having a battery drain half way home, because,
the recharge cycle limit was crossed, or you forgot to charge it up,
the last time you came home.
the hybrid/vs road thing is about riding posture dictated by handle bar type choice.
Some bike shop test rides, will help you feel that out.
#16
Banned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 8,543
Likes: 41
From: England / CPH
Bikes: 2010 Cube Acid / 2013 Mango FGSS
to me, this would be the best option ... but slightly out of the price range of the OP

in fact, their new catalog came out today ... they've been making bikes for 25 years (since 1987) ... and they just released this one for 1,987€
in fact, their new catalog came out today ... they've been making bikes for 25 years (since 1987) ... and they just released this one for 1,987€

Last edited by acidfast7; 09-04-12 at 11:03 AM.
#17
Rider of the Storm
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Sunnyvale, CA
Bikes: 1974 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1986 Trek 850
I own and commute on both now... I have been using a Hybrid the majority of the time up until I picked up a vintage Steel Motobecane Grand Touring road bike... I think if you want to commute on a road bike a touring bike would be just about right for the majority of people.. since I got it my hybrid is now my grocery/errand bike... it's a tough call...
Last edited by doomtroll; 09-04-12 at 11:23 AM.
#18
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,608
Likes: 6
From: Western Florida
Bikes: 2017 Kona TI, 2011 Mezzo D9, Gazelle Ultimate C380
The problem to watch out for on many hybrids is that they are being set up for "speed" and therefore have steeper frame angles and shorter wheelbases, much lighter wheelsets and narrower tires. Be sure to keep the tires to at least 32mms wide, and depending on your weight go with 35-40s if you can. Nothing like a stiff aluminum frame (harsh), on small spoke count wheels (harsh), and high pressure narrow tires (harsh again). Also, a road bike should be looked at for its tire clearnace for the same resons mentioned (to get wider tires and fenders in there). That is why a cyclocross is suggested - it either comes the way you want, or at least can accommodate the things you need for your commute (wider tires, fenders, rack mounts, more upright - usually). They are often the best of both worlds.
#19
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
I'm not sure I know enough to make a recommendation for you. However, I tend to vote for road bikes with drop bars, except if the rider is in an urban environment, then I would suggest a straight bar road bike, so that you've got a better head's up view of traffic. Neither option being a "hybrid" but some hybrids and straight bar road bikes are identical. All depends on what the brand wants to call their bike, usualy for marketing purposes ...
#20
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When I said hills, I meant hills. Luckily, that means half the time I'm coasting 
Good, that sums up all of winter here.
And I am. Good to see more names outside of the big box stores though.
I managed it once with a friend's 21 speed mountain bike in the lowest gear. The chain was so diagonal I had to replace it afterward. But most times when I hit the 10 degree mark on those hills I get off and walk it.
Which would be good around the freight trucks.
Also, "48T up front 11T-34T on back" - what does that mean? search engines send back all kinds of stuff.
Oh, I know the feud will rage on here until the heat-death of the Universe; I just wanted to ask the wizened elders of the Order of the Rubber so I can tell my friends to stop text-feuding. I saw some hybrids with frames not much bigger than road bikes, but that was at Freddy's.
Yeah, I was just guessing based on pictures of various labeled inclines. I've been watching CL, when I saw that word hybrid pop up, which is what prompted the question.
All I have for lighting is a battery flashlight and mount on the front and a light-up reflector on the back. They're bretty bright, but do I need something else besides those? Also, I'm gonna visit some LBSs this weekend, but do they have something like an incline machine to test bikes on? I never thought of how they'd do try before you buy.
Duly noted. I can see how narrow high-pressure low-spoke tires can be harsh, but I thought aluminum was what I should be going for to keep weight down.
Looked up those cyclocross bikes. Beautiful. Bit out of my price range. I'm actually thinking of taking a zero-finder out there and putting it on the hills. It'd be interesting to see how much of a climb I do every day. Leaning toward a hybrid after what everyone's said, though I would never have guessed that the similarities between hybrids and road bikes are more numerous and subtler than I first thought. I may get a road bike for just casual weekend riding through the parks later on though; all this conversation has got remembering how nice that old Schwinn was. I also think I'm gonna stick with flat bars. One of the rabble says to use upright handlebars like on cruisers on a hybrid - anyone try that?
Thanks for all the input so far guys. You've a right pool of wisdom between the lot of you. Suppose there's naught to do but to go to the bike shops and talk to people. The trouble with online ratings of such shops is that you don't know if the guy calling the owner a "snob" (and there's a lot of that, what is up with some of these acidic insults in the ratings?) is just an idiot, is scared of non-big-box stores or if the shop prefers to cater to a more technically experienced crowd.

Originally Posted by Slaninar
It's better for poor weather.
Originally Posted by acidfast7
if you're in the US
Originally Posted by hyhuu
Neither bike is going to get up that. You need something with a motor.
Originally Posted by terrapin44
Personally, I like the upright position a hybird offers when I'm near traffic.
Also, "48T up front 11T-34T on back" - what does that mean? search engines send back all kinds of stuff.
Originally Posted by wphampton
We won't settle that feud here ... If it was me, having the commute you describe, I'd go with a hybrid or mountain bike but it has to be light for walking up that 25 degree incline.
Originally Posted by CptJohnC
Assuming for the moment that your incline description is not meant to be technical
Originally Posted by fietsbob
wired LED tail and headlights ... the hybrid/vs road thing is about riding posture dictated by handle bar type choice.
Originally Posted by Ridefreemc
The problem to watch out for on many hybrids is that they are being set up for "speed" and therefore have steeper frame angles and shorter wheelbases, much lighter wheelsets and narrower tires.
Looked up those cyclocross bikes. Beautiful. Bit out of my price range. I'm actually thinking of taking a zero-finder out there and putting it on the hills. It'd be interesting to see how much of a climb I do every day. Leaning toward a hybrid after what everyone's said, though I would never have guessed that the similarities between hybrids and road bikes are more numerous and subtler than I first thought. I may get a road bike for just casual weekend riding through the parks later on though; all this conversation has got remembering how nice that old Schwinn was. I also think I'm gonna stick with flat bars. One of the rabble says to use upright handlebars like on cruisers on a hybrid - anyone try that?
Thanks for all the input so far guys. You've a right pool of wisdom between the lot of you. Suppose there's naught to do but to go to the bike shops and talk to people. The trouble with online ratings of such shops is that you don't know if the guy calling the owner a "snob" (and there's a lot of that, what is up with some of these acidic insults in the ratings?) is just an idiot, is scared of non-big-box stores or if the shop prefers to cater to a more technically experienced crowd.
#21
Banned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 8,543
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From: England / CPH
Bikes: 2010 Cube Acid / 2013 Mango FGSS
48T = 48 teeth on the big front chain ring
11T-32T on the back = cogs with 11 through 32 teeth on the back.
this gives you a huge range of gearing.
Trek 7.2 FX Disc is nice for the money
Specialized Sirrus is nice (but no disc brakes in your budget)
i'm still fond of the european commuter bike which is like the trek 7.2 FX disc, but comes with front suspension for 500€ (like that Cube I posted above).
good luck.
11T-32T on the back = cogs with 11 through 32 teeth on the back.
this gives you a huge range of gearing.
Trek 7.2 FX Disc is nice for the money
Specialized Sirrus is nice (but no disc brakes in your budget)
i'm still fond of the european commuter bike which is like the trek 7.2 FX disc, but comes with front suspension for 500€ (like that Cube I posted above).
good luck.
#22
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That clears a lot up. And I would gladly sacrifice elsewhere for disc brakes, and I can go a bit over, I'm just trying not to strain up against bills. I'll need them once the never-ending winter rains come. If they come. I'm guessing $70-to-$150-ish for new not-unusable disc brakes, maybe less-but-I'm-gambling-at-that-point on ebay? That's just my estimate from a quick look at google products and amazon though.
#24
Mad bike riding scientist




Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Denver, CO
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
One tribe is convinced there is nothing a road bike doesn't do, and no bike is a true bike unless it's a road bike. They make good points about weight, and I did ride a Schwinn road bike on a dirt path through the woods for a year or so; no idea what kind or what tires it had though. The other camp says hybrid bikes, because a road bike wouldn't survive the glass, gravel, old freight truck parts and branches left on the truck routes, and that going from gravel to road and up hills I should be getting something heartier than a bike made for "going a few blocks in flat, bike-friendly neighborhoods". I also have a bad back and have a hard time bending over as far as the road bikes I've seen require. One guy said I should strap a motor to a cruiser trike, but that would count as a motorcycle according to local bike laws. Tempting though.
So what would experienced commuters recommend for getting around these underdeveloped foothills in the industrial sector? I'm not as worried about trucks, because I've found them to be more agreeable to bike traffic than cars, but I still need to swerve at least twice a morning. At least I had the sense to strap lights to it. Feel free to openly lambast me and the question, I fully intend to pay attention in bicycle class here and U. of Wikipedia upon procuring better product.
As for the idea that a road bike is the only bike, that's just dumb. Road bikes have their place. Mountain bikes have theirs. A mountain bike can do everything that a road bike can, it's just slower. A road bike can't do everything a mountain bike can do...well it can but only once
A hybrid, on the other hand, can do a little of what a road bike does and a little of what a mountain bike does but it does neither all that well.
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Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
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Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#25
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,261
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From: SF Bay Area
Bikes: 2012 Specialized Sirrus
That clears a lot up. And I would gladly sacrifice elsewhere for disc brakes, and I can go a bit over, I'm just trying not to strain up against bills. I'll need them once the never-ending winter rains come. If they come. I'm guessing $70-to-$150-ish for new not-unusable disc brakes, maybe less-but-I'm-gambling-at-that-point on ebay? That's just my estimate from a quick look at google products and amazon though.



