I'm not sure if this is a good forum for this post or if I should be in the Bike Mechanics. If this is not the right place, please let me know.

I currently commute daily on a single speed steel frame (80's Schwinn conversion), but have a 2011 Giant Defy Advanced 3 that only has 1100 miles. I use my commuter 95% of the time and enjoy riding it more than the Giant, in fact I love my bike. I would like to move from both bikes to one: a Surly Cross Check set up for commuting but that can also do weekend/centuries/touring w/ friends (maybe avg 19 mph max or so). I plan to sell the frame and use the parts (specs)to build up the Cross Check.

There's a few nagging concerns I have (in part because this would be my first time building up a bike) that I haven't been able to solve yet via searching, sheldon, forums, etc. I'd like to nail down all the details before I do any selling/ordering and enlist a couple friends to help me build it (they have tools).

1. The Giant's bottom bracket is a FSA Mega-Exo Internal PressFit. The Surly is a standard 68mm. As best as I can tell/guess this will fit, its just a difference with where the cups are and how it fits in there. Right/wrong?
2. The 105 5700 STIs are compatible with new canti brakes I will need (as opposed to direct pull / V brakes which *would* require an adaptor). Right/wrong?
3. I'm going with a Thompson seatpost because of how well its regarded for safety/sturdiness (and looks I'll admit). I believe the right size is 27.2 diameter according to Surly's specs, but what should I get for the length since there's 250, 330, or 410. There are no Thompson seatclamps though at the 27.2 diameter - what is the right size?
4. Headset - deciding between the Cane Creek 40 or a Chris King - my friend recommends the Chris King as more reliable and a long warranty, a long lasting part to invest in. I like the idea of having good parts that will last later on vs. saving money now.
5. Cable/wires - need to replace this and would like a recommendation on just durable/dependable wires/cable. Have been leaning towards Jagwire but haven't found much info on a good choice for my application. Or is it all pretty much the same?
6. Tektro CR720 - great low cost canti with good mechanical advantage and now also takes standard road pads. But do they come with the hanger, triangles, straddle wire, or do I need to buy those separate?

Down the line I plan to upgrade out of some of the Giant's parts:

1. Upgrade to 32/36 that are more appropriate for daily riding, then be able to switch for weekend/centuries with other wheels.
2. My commuter currently uses 47cm Profile Design bullhorns, which I love how wide they are. The Giant has FSA Wing Pro Compacts, which at 42 cm feel really small. I would like to eventually get wing bars that are 44 or if possible 46.

If you email surly this question they will answer it for you.

Right but you could also use mini-Vs

Probably 250 but it depends on how much seatpost you need to show considering the frame size. You could play it safe and get the 330.

I've put >10k miles on generic (sealed bearing) headsets (using fenders) in nasty conditions and not close to wearing them out, so I think as long as you get sealed bearings and use fenders to protect it from below if you ride in the wet, it doesn't matter what you get, which doesn't mean you shouldn't spring for CK if that's what you want.

I usually get jagwire but I don't know.

Not the hanger I believe that is always a separate purchase (if you are buying your cc frame new it will come w/ a rear hanger at least)

^ Some really good answers there

A few other bits I'll add. As a CC custom build owner myself.

1 Not sure about the BB, not a bad idea to just sell it with the frame. Get a 105 BB and be done with it?
2 They should work well. Canti's are plenty good and easy to set up (i think)
3 Thomson post, the 330 is the safe bet, I have several my CC has a 330 set back. if you ever want to switch it to another bike it'll most likely be good, The short one might not and the long one is way over kill for most frames. I have a salsa clamp on one of my bikes that has a 27.2 post, sorry I cant remember the size, it's common though. my cross check frame came with the stock surly clamp and it's fine.
4 King Head set. Not everyone agrees, but IMHO they are worth it. All my bikes have them and I've never once adjusted or re-built any of them, one is over 20 years old.
5. Jag wire. They do the job well and come in many colors, don't over think it.
6. Im sure those are fine, I have Avid shorty 6's. Easy to replace pads, and adjust. they leave room for fenders and snow clearance. That bike is made for Canti's

Down the line
1. Sure, Sturdy wheels on the commuter / town bike make a lot of sense.
2. The nice thing about the cross check is that you can run almost any type of bar and be happy. (i have) The profiles seem great to start, but you can always switch later. I happen to Love the FSA wing pro compacts I have the widest ones they make.

Hey man, I am starting a similar project, will be interested to follow your progress, if you post how things go.

I can't answer all your questions, but a few thoughts popped into my head:

1. A friend swears by the Shimano UN55 BB, I recently bought one off eBay for $20-something, expect it to last forever.

2. Reading up on retroshift for my build, I recently came across this statement, "V-Brakes ... offer exceptional stopping power and have long since replaced cantilever brakes on Mountain bikes. ‘Cross bikes have only kept with cantilever’s as road brake/shift levers have not had the correct pull ratio to allow them to use these more powerful brakes." So it would make sense that road brifters should all work equally well with calipers or cantis.

3. I have ordered my crosscheck frame, it's riding in a UPS truck as I type, and it is supposed to have a Surly seatpost clamp with it. Don't know if you wanted a Thompson-specific clamp for some reason. Or maybe you're getting a used frame that might not have the standard little parts included.

4. I don't believe in organic food, "high quality" speaker or hdmi cables, or boutique cable housing. Just dribble some light chain oil into the housing before you run the cable through, and you should be good with whatever your bike shop sells you if you just hold your hands out and say "I need this much cable housing".

6. Like you, I am also planning on Tektro CR720 cantis, and every new kit I've seen includes straddle wires, triangles, pads. My frame is also supposed to come with a Surly brake hanger, which if I understand correctly, will hang from the seat post clamp and provide a cable stop for the rear brake. This thing. Don't know if I'll have to buy a headset hanger for the front.

If Thompson doesn't make the clamp size you need, I'd recommend going with a Salsa Liplock. That's what I did when looking for a new 30.0mm clamp for my Steamroller. It has been flawless. Cross-Check uses the same clamp size.

Consider a fork-mounted hanger instead. I didn't have much trouble with the headset-based hanger that came with my CC, but it has seemed a little better since I added switched to a fork-mounted cable stop. Lennard Zinn explains why the fork-mounted stop is better: https://velonews.competitor.com/2010/...o-cross_101807

-Peter

Some points not mentioned yet:

Your Giant uses a direct mount front derailer doesn't it? you'll need an adaptor to fit the Surly, or a different derailer (28.6 clamp, bottom pull).

You will need STI downtube cable stop adaptors; the Surly has braze-on downtube shifter mounts

Tektro 720s actually have relatively poor mechanical advantage; primary usage is large mud clearance
Consider getting something like an Avid Shorty, similar features and price, but stronger geometry
straddle wires are included; but you need to buy a 1 1/8 threadless cable hanger for the front brake
frame should come with rear cable hanger (at least mine did)