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Durable Road Bike for Commuting?
I'm looking to build (or maybe buy, but rather build) a new bike for getting around the city. I really want to get a super light aluminium road bike frame, but I'm kind of afraid of the durability. I'm sure it'll be fine when on the road, but I sometimes go off road and up/down curbs especially when taking short cuts around campus.
I've been asking around and reading some posts here and people have suggested a cyclocross bike would work well for this purpose, but I can't seem to find a decent frame that'll fit into my budget. Most frames I've found are $200+, and I don't want to exceed $300 total if possible. Do you guys think a road bike frame would be durable enough to take a good beating? |
What city? What kind of weather do you expect to be running into? Road conditions? How fast will you be going?
Don't worry about the durability: most reputable manufacturers carry a lifetime warranty (excluding accidents that would destroy your frame anyway) on their frames so it's not like your road bike will break because of a bunny hop or two - the double diamond is more durable than you think. (You're more likely to destroy a wheel that way, but that's neither here nor there.) For instance, I ride a Bianchi Via Nirone as my primary commuting bike: it's an "endurance bike," which means a taller head tube and a less aero rider position. At 22 pounds, it's also heavier than most bikes and feels it: I don't feel road buzz too often, the bottom bracket area feels a stone weight, and it's more sluggish and less responsive than my old 1997 C'Dale CAAD2. It also feels indestructible. |
Get a used MTB and put some slicks on it!
That'll be less expensive and even more durable than a road bike. Besides, you don't wanna go thru the trouble of building a nice bike while on campus, just to have some sleaze ball steal it from under your nose... BTW You can get a brand new 29er MTB from bikesdirect.com for right around $300. It'll be just perfect for a college campus... |
Originally Posted by SlimRider
(Post 14953640)
Get a used MTB and put some slicks on it!
That'll be less expensive and even more durable than a road bike. Besides, you don't wanna go thru the trouble of building a nice bike while on campus, just to have some sleaze ball steal it from under your nose... BTW You can get a brand new 29er MTB from bikesdirect.com for right around $300. It'll be just perfect for a college campus... Go with a singlespeed 29er or used MTB / 29er. And learn to bunny hop / rear wheel hop for curbs. Even mountain bike wheels have their limits on how much they can take. Put Schwalbe "big apple" 2.35 slicks on there, and I guarantee you'll be grinning from ear to ear when you ride it. Here's the cheapest one BD offers. http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/g29ss.htm For cx, here's BD's singlespeed offering, though outside your price limit: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/uno.htm |
Originally Posted by SlimRider
(Post 14953640)
Get a used MTB and put some slicks on it!
That'll be less expensive and even more durable than a road bike. Besides, you don't wanna go thru the trouble of building a nice bike while on campus, just to have some sleaze ball steal it from under your nose... BTW You can get a brand new 29er MTB from bikesdirect.com for right around $300. It'll be just perfect for a college campus... |
Originally Posted by Lspade
(Post 14954143)
+2. Out of all the bikes i own (up to $2000 price tag) my favorite to commute on is my 26er Diamondback that I got on craigslist for $45. I converted it to singlespeed and haven't touched it with oil or a wrench for a year and it runs flawlessly (even with a minnesota salty winter). I dont worry about banging it up or people scratching it cuz it was only $45.
With the dedicated bike lanes/paths what they are in Frankfurt, an MTB is essential (or at least wider tires are essential). I haven't migrated to slicks yet because my knobbies still have tread on them and I want to wear them out before replacing them. Almost no one I know commutes on a road bike or a bike with drop bars over here. here's what a typical separated and segregated (bike/pedestrian) bike path rides like when it's not busy: when it's in a congested area it's much harder: however, the city does a good job of keeping the paths clear in the winter |
consider a Surly Pacer frameset, build it up as a 1x9 ? Get a good fit and wheel set.
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Originally Posted by anujaya
(Post 14953370)
Do you guys think a road bike frame would be durable enough to take a good beating?
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...97_-1___203559 |
thanks for the input!
I wish I could spend enough to build a bike with some of those nicer frames you guys recommended, but can't as of now. I really like that nashbar frame, but I feel like that may drive me over budget unless I skimped on the rest of the components. I think the nice cyclocross based bike may have to wait till after college. I'm going to buy a old frame from a local bike shop and just build it with as many used parts I can. And being in Pittsburgh and riding in the rain and snow, I think it'd be nice to have a bike that I don't have to worry about as much. Thanks for the input again! |
I really want to get a super light aluminium road bike frame, but I'm kind of afraid of the durability. or your wheels.. road bike and curb hopping will do some damage every time the 2 wheel bunny hop is not well done . maybe a MTB with big tires is better, if planning abuse. |
I would not worry too much about the frame (as long as it is sturdy), but worry more about the wheels. If using a road bike, I would use fattest tyres you safely can, but keep the pressure up and use the smoothest tread you can get. For commuting I don't care about looks, but reliabitity. I use an old cheap road bike with Hybrid wheels. Although there is not much clearence with these wheels, it means that I can get puncture resistant tyres (which are greatly needed where I ride). The difference in performance is not really that much unless you have a long ride and/or some steep hills.
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A road bike that has clearance for 28/32mm tyres should be fine. You will need long drop calliper brakes . CX style cantilevers have more clearance but mine never work as well as callipers. Disk brakes are good but not available in lower prices.
Use strong wheels, 32 or 36 spoke std training grade will do. The frame is rarely the point of failure. Every factory frame is strong enough, you have to go to high-end, ultralight custom frames to sacrifice strength for weight. Forks are more often failure points. Carbon is strong but if you are going to bash the bike around, maybe steel will be for forgiving. In a frontal impact, steel will bend rather than break. You dont want the forks so much stronger than the frame, or else the forks will survive an impact but the frame will be buckled. |
Redline Metro Sport! :)
A factory made drop bar commuter. I love mine. |
Originally Posted by anujaya
(Post 14966837)
thanks for the input!
I wish I could spend enough to build a bike with some of those nicer frames you guys recommended, but can't as of now. I really like that nashbar frame, but I feel like that may drive me over budget unless I skimped on the rest of the components. I think the nice cyclocross based bike may have to wait till after college. I'm going to buy a old frame from a local bike shop and just build it with as many used parts I can. And being in Pittsburgh and riding in the rain and snow, I think it'd be nice to have a bike that I don't have to worry about as much. Thanks for the input again! |
Yeah. I'm in the middle of a bike build myself. It's fun, and you get a bike that you can truly say is yours, but it is not a good way to save money.
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Here is a $199 cyclocross frameset with headseat (free shipping) http://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ls&ProdID=1238
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Originally Posted by anujaya
(Post 14953370)
Do you guys think a road bike frame would be durable enough to take a good beating?
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Originally Posted by Spld cyclist
(Post 14968194)
You might be underestimating what bike parts cost - even used ones. Then there's labor at the LBS or money to buy special tools. I wouldn't try to build up a bike on a $300 budget unless there really aren't any Craig's List complete bikes that meet your needs. You might be able to find a used bike with condition problems, where a few parts could make it complete/reliable, and still stay under $300.
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Originally Posted by anujaya
(Post 14953370)
...
I've been asking around and reading some posts here and people have suggested a cyclocross bike would work well for this purpose, but I can't seem to find a decent frame that'll fit into my budget. Most frames I've found are $200+, and I don't want to exceed $300 total if possible. Do you guys think a road bike frame would be durable enough to take a good beating? |
All of the Nashbar road, touring and 'cross frames are a great value. They will certainly be lighter, more corrosion resistant and stronger than a steel frame, vintage or otherwise. I have build 2 of these Nashbar alu frames up to great success. I own high-end vintage steel frames (including a Pinarello Montello) and in every way that matters (except nostalgia and bragging rights - if that matters to you), the $99 Nashbar alu road frame is better.
If you are commuting you'll want excellent brakes. Dual-pivots or disks if you are riding with loads in the rain. If you are building up a bike from parts, do not scrimp on brakes (or lights), and resist any temptation to use vintage brakesets, particularly anything labelled: 'Dia Compe' or Weinmann or Mafac or worse. Brakes and lights are like consumer electronics, it makes no sense to buy used or old stuff. Don't convert a mountain bike, particularly one with a suspension fork or knobby tires. The heavy frame and wheels, and energy-sapping suspension bob will kill your speed and riding enjoyment on pavement. |
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