Durable Road Bike for Commuting?
#1
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Joined: Nov 2012
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Durable Road Bike for Commuting?
I'm looking to build (or maybe buy, but rather build) a new bike for getting around the city. I really want to get a super light aluminium road bike frame, but I'm kind of afraid of the durability. I'm sure it'll be fine when on the road, but I sometimes go off road and up/down curbs especially when taking short cuts around campus.
I've been asking around and reading some posts here and people have suggested a cyclocross bike would work well for this purpose, but I can't seem to find a decent frame that'll fit into my budget. Most frames I've found are $200+, and I don't want to exceed $300 total if possible.
Do you guys think a road bike frame would be durable enough to take a good beating?
I've been asking around and reading some posts here and people have suggested a cyclocross bike would work well for this purpose, but I can't seem to find a decent frame that'll fit into my budget. Most frames I've found are $200+, and I don't want to exceed $300 total if possible.
Do you guys think a road bike frame would be durable enough to take a good beating?
#2
toasty!
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 710
Likes: 0
From: Troy, MI
Bikes: 1998 Cannondale r200, 2011 Bianchi Via Nirone 7; 2007 Redline Conquest Pro
What city? What kind of weather do you expect to be running into? Road conditions? How fast will you be going?
Don't worry about the durability: most reputable manufacturers carry a lifetime warranty (excluding accidents that would destroy your frame anyway) on their frames so it's not like your road bike will break because of a bunny hop or two - the double diamond is more durable than you think. (You're more likely to destroy a wheel that way, but that's neither here nor there.)
For instance, I ride a Bianchi Via Nirone as my primary commuting bike: it's an "endurance bike," which means a taller head tube and a less aero rider position. At 22 pounds, it's also heavier than most bikes and feels it: I don't feel road buzz too often, the bottom bracket area feels a stone weight, and it's more sluggish and less responsive than my old 1997 C'Dale CAAD2. It also feels indestructible.
Don't worry about the durability: most reputable manufacturers carry a lifetime warranty (excluding accidents that would destroy your frame anyway) on their frames so it's not like your road bike will break because of a bunny hop or two - the double diamond is more durable than you think. (You're more likely to destroy a wheel that way, but that's neither here nor there.)
For instance, I ride a Bianchi Via Nirone as my primary commuting bike: it's an "endurance bike," which means a taller head tube and a less aero rider position. At 22 pounds, it's also heavier than most bikes and feels it: I don't feel road buzz too often, the bottom bracket area feels a stone weight, and it's more sluggish and less responsive than my old 1997 C'Dale CAAD2. It also feels indestructible.
Last edited by AK404; 11-15-12 at 08:09 PM.
#3
Banned
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 5,804
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From: Northern California
Bikes: Raleigh Grand Prix, Giant Innova, Nishiki Sebring, Trek 7.5FX
Get a used MTB and put some slicks on it!
That'll be less expensive and even more durable than a road bike.
Besides, you don't wanna go thru the trouble of building a nice bike while on campus, just to have some sleaze ball steal it from under your nose...
BTW
You can get a brand new 29er MTB from bikesdirect.com for right around $300. It'll be just perfect for a college campus...
That'll be less expensive and even more durable than a road bike.
Besides, you don't wanna go thru the trouble of building a nice bike while on campus, just to have some sleaze ball steal it from under your nose...
BTW
You can get a brand new 29er MTB from bikesdirect.com for right around $300. It'll be just perfect for a college campus...
Last edited by SlimRider; 11-15-12 at 09:29 PM.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,599
Likes: 158
From: Santa Fe, NM
Bikes: Vassago Moosknuckle Ti 29+ XTR, 90's Merckx Corsa-01 9sp Record, PROJECT: 1954 Frejus SuperCorsa
Get a used MTB and put some slicks on it!
That'll be less expensive and even more durable than a road bike.
Besides, you don't wanna go thru the trouble of building a nice bike while on campus, just to have some sleaze ball steal it from under your nose...
BTW
You can get a brand new 29er MTB from bikesdirect.com for right around $300. It'll be just perfect for a college campus...
That'll be less expensive and even more durable than a road bike.
Besides, you don't wanna go thru the trouble of building a nice bike while on campus, just to have some sleaze ball steal it from under your nose...
BTW
You can get a brand new 29er MTB from bikesdirect.com for right around $300. It'll be just perfect for a college campus...
Go with a singlespeed 29er or used MTB / 29er. And learn to bunny hop / rear wheel hop for curbs. Even mountain bike wheels have their limits on how much they can take. Put Schwalbe "big apple" 2.35 slicks on there, and I guarantee you'll be grinning from ear to ear when you ride it.
Here's the cheapest one BD offers. https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/g29ss.htm
For cx, here's BD's singlespeed offering, though outside your price limit: https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/uno.htm
#5
Get a used MTB and put some slicks on it!
That'll be less expensive and even more durable than a road bike.
Besides, you don't wanna go thru the trouble of building a nice bike while on campus, just to have some sleaze ball steal it from under your nose...
BTW
You can get a brand new 29er MTB from bikesdirect.com for right around $300. It'll be just perfect for a college campus...
That'll be less expensive and even more durable than a road bike.
Besides, you don't wanna go thru the trouble of building a nice bike while on campus, just to have some sleaze ball steal it from under your nose...
BTW
You can get a brand new 29er MTB from bikesdirect.com for right around $300. It'll be just perfect for a college campus...
#6
Banned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 8,543
Likes: 41
From: England / CPH
Bikes: 2010 Cube Acid / 2013 Mango FGSS
+2. Out of all the bikes i own (up to $2000 price tag) my favorite to commute on is my 26er Diamondback that I got on craigslist for $45. I converted it to singlespeed and haven't touched it with oil or a wrench for a year and it runs flawlessly (even with a minnesota salty winter). I dont worry about banging it up or people scratching it cuz it was only $45.
With the dedicated bike lanes/paths what they are in Frankfurt, an MTB is essential (or at least wider tires are essential). I haven't migrated to slicks yet because my knobbies still have tread on them and I want to wear them out before replacing them. Almost no one I know commutes on a road bike or a bike with drop bars over here.
here's what a typical separated and segregated (bike/pedestrian) bike path rides like when it's not busy:
when it's in a congested area it's much harder:
however, the city does a good job of keeping the paths clear in the winter
Last edited by acidfast7; 11-16-12 at 04:01 AM.
#8
One Man Fast Brick
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,121
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From: Chicagoland
Bikes: Specialized Langster, Bianchi San Jose, early 90s GT Karakoram, Yuba Mundo, Mercier Nano (mini velo), Nashbar Steel Commuter, KHS Tandemania Sport
https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...97_-1___203559
#9
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2012
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thanks for the input!
I wish I could spend enough to build a bike with some of those nicer frames you guys recommended, but can't as of now. I really like that nashbar frame, but I feel like that may drive me over budget unless I skimped on the rest of the components. I think the nice cyclocross based bike may have to wait till after college.
I'm going to buy a old frame from a local bike shop and just build it with as many used parts I can. And being in Pittsburgh and riding in the rain and snow, I think it'd be nice to have a bike that I don't have to worry about as much. Thanks for the input again!
I wish I could spend enough to build a bike with some of those nicer frames you guys recommended, but can't as of now. I really like that nashbar frame, but I feel like that may drive me over budget unless I skimped on the rest of the components. I think the nice cyclocross based bike may have to wait till after college.
I'm going to buy a old frame from a local bike shop and just build it with as many used parts I can. And being in Pittsburgh and riding in the rain and snow, I think it'd be nice to have a bike that I don't have to worry about as much. Thanks for the input again!
#10
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
I really want to get a super light aluminium road bike frame, but I'm kind of afraid of the durability.
or your wheels..
road bike and curb hopping will do some damage
every time the 2 wheel bunny hop is not well done .
maybe a MTB with big tires is better, if planning abuse.
#11
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 39
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From: Doveton, Victoria, Australia
Bikes: Fuji - Single speed road, Elite - Peconi frame road bike from 80's, Roadmaster - commuter racer, Monty - rigid MTB, Cranky - Ross Rigid MTB and others old bikes.
I would not worry too much about the frame (as long as it is sturdy), but worry more about the wheels. If using a road bike, I would use fattest tyres you safely can, but keep the pressure up and use the smoothest tread you can get. For commuting I don't care about looks, but reliabitity. I use an old cheap road bike with Hybrid wheels. Although there is not much clearence with these wheels, it means that I can get puncture resistant tyres (which are greatly needed where I ride). The difference in performance is not really that much unless you have a long ride and/or some steep hills.
#12
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 12,948
Likes: 9
From: England
A road bike that has clearance for 28/32mm tyres should be fine. You will need long drop calliper brakes . CX style cantilevers have more clearance but mine never work as well as callipers. Disk brakes are good but not available in lower prices.
Use strong wheels, 32 or 36 spoke std training grade will do.
The frame is rarely the point of failure. Every factory frame is strong enough, you have to go to high-end, ultralight custom frames to sacrifice strength for weight.
Forks are more often failure points. Carbon is strong but if you are going to bash the bike around, maybe steel will be for forgiving. In a frontal impact, steel will bend rather than break. You dont want the forks so much stronger than the frame, or else the forks will survive an impact but the frame will be buckled.
Use strong wheels, 32 or 36 spoke std training grade will do.
The frame is rarely the point of failure. Every factory frame is strong enough, you have to go to high-end, ultralight custom frames to sacrifice strength for weight.
Forks are more often failure points. Carbon is strong but if you are going to bash the bike around, maybe steel will be for forgiving. In a frontal impact, steel will bend rather than break. You dont want the forks so much stronger than the frame, or else the forks will survive an impact but the frame will be buckled.
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 1
From: Springfield, MA
Bikes: 2012 Motobecane Fantom CXX, 2012 Motobecane Fantom CX, 1997 Bianchi Nyala, 200? Burley Rock 'n Roll
thanks for the input!
I wish I could spend enough to build a bike with some of those nicer frames you guys recommended, but can't as of now. I really like that nashbar frame, but I feel like that may drive me over budget unless I skimped on the rest of the components. I think the nice cyclocross based bike may have to wait till after college.
I'm going to buy a old frame from a local bike shop and just build it with as many used parts I can. And being in Pittsburgh and riding in the rain and snow, I think it'd be nice to have a bike that I don't have to worry about as much. Thanks for the input again!
I wish I could spend enough to build a bike with some of those nicer frames you guys recommended, but can't as of now. I really like that nashbar frame, but I feel like that may drive me over budget unless I skimped on the rest of the components. I think the nice cyclocross based bike may have to wait till after college.
I'm going to buy a old frame from a local bike shop and just build it with as many used parts I can. And being in Pittsburgh and riding in the rain and snow, I think it'd be nice to have a bike that I don't have to worry about as much. Thanks for the input again!
#15
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, IL
Bikes: Crossrip Elite, Bikesdirect tarck bike custom build
Yeah. I'm in the middle of a bike build myself. It's fun, and you get a bike that you can truly say is yours, but it is not a good way to save money.
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 736
Likes: 1
Here is a $199 cyclocross frameset with headseat (free shipping) https://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ls&ProdID=1238
#17
ouate de phoque
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 1
From: La Prairie, Qc, Canada
Bikes: Bianchi, Nakamura,Opus
I've been commuting the last 2 years (11500 kms so far) with a cheap road bike (Nakamura elite) with an aluminum frame that sell for 400$ cdn with no problem. I may be ding a bit more maintenance than on a more expensive bike but it's quite reliable.
#18
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Joined: Nov 2012
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You might be underestimating what bike parts cost - even used ones. Then there's labor at the LBS or money to buy special tools. I wouldn't try to build up a bike on a $300 budget unless there really aren't any Craig's List complete bikes that meet your needs. You might be able to find a used bike with condition problems, where a few parts could make it complete/reliable, and still stay under $300.
#19
...
I've been asking around and reading some posts here and people have suggested a cyclocross bike would work well for this purpose, but I can't seem to find a decent frame that'll fit into my budget. Most frames I've found are $200+, and I don't want to exceed $300 total if possible.
Do you guys think a road bike frame would be durable enough to take a good beating?
I've been asking around and reading some posts here and people have suggested a cyclocross bike would work well for this purpose, but I can't seem to find a decent frame that'll fit into my budget. Most frames I've found are $200+, and I don't want to exceed $300 total if possible.
Do you guys think a road bike frame would be durable enough to take a good beating?
#20
All of the Nashbar road, touring and 'cross frames are a great value. They will certainly be lighter, more corrosion resistant and stronger than a steel frame, vintage or otherwise. I have build 2 of these Nashbar alu frames up to great success. I own high-end vintage steel frames (including a Pinarello Montello) and in every way that matters (except nostalgia and bragging rights - if that matters to you), the $99 Nashbar alu road frame is better.
If you are commuting you'll want excellent brakes. Dual-pivots or disks if you are riding with loads in the rain. If you are building up a bike from parts, do not scrimp on brakes (or lights), and resist any temptation to use vintage brakesets, particularly anything labelled: 'Dia Compe' or Weinmann or Mafac or worse. Brakes and lights are like consumer electronics, it makes no sense to buy used or old stuff.
Don't convert a mountain bike, particularly one with a suspension fork or knobby tires. The heavy frame and wheels, and energy-sapping suspension bob will kill your speed and riding enjoyment on pavement.
If you are commuting you'll want excellent brakes. Dual-pivots or disks if you are riding with loads in the rain. If you are building up a bike from parts, do not scrimp on brakes (or lights), and resist any temptation to use vintage brakesets, particularly anything labelled: 'Dia Compe' or Weinmann or Mafac or worse. Brakes and lights are like consumer electronics, it makes no sense to buy used or old stuff.
Don't convert a mountain bike, particularly one with a suspension fork or knobby tires. The heavy frame and wheels, and energy-sapping suspension bob will kill your speed and riding enjoyment on pavement.
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