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You can tap into some Cyclo Cross parts say a 110 42~44 as a middle *, and a Chainguard disc instead of the Outer .
Modern FD's need a 10t difference between Middle and outers.. the toothless disc will help keep your trouser leg out of thje chain. * may lack the Shift pins and ramps , but Surly Stainless steel ones are Long Wearing. then you have the 26~28t for hills. 16t drop to 3rd ring seems to work good. |
Originally Posted by fietsbob
(Post 14993654)
You can tap into some Cyclo Cross parts say a 110 42~44 as a middle *, and a Chainguard disc instead of the Outer .
Modern FD's need a 10t difference between Middle and outers.. the toothless disc will help keep your trouser leg out of thje chain. * may lack the Shift pins and ramps , but Surly Stainless steel ones are Long Wearing. then you have the 26~28t for hills. 16t drop to 3rd ring seems to work good. My FD was going between 42 and 52. I know the 10 tooth spec. It sure likes to go between 42 and 45 smoothly. I guess I could look around for a front plate closer to the 45t size but where its pushing on the chain is way back and it doesn’t know it only has to jump 3 tooth jump. |
I run half step as follows:
46-43 to 11-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32 My twice daily ride has a large hill at each end with an undulating flat between and head wind. With a closer ratio cassette I find myself doing a lot of double shifting. Down hill it's best to keep up with 40-50km/hr traffic. There are some steep parts that need the lowest ratio to save my knees. Close spacing in the middle ratios around 30km/hr is good for the flatter section & winds. I'm heavy, ride as fast as I can and it's my experience that smaller chainrings result in more rapid chain wear. So the above setup works well for me, ignoring the extreme cross ratios I get: Gear inches 35-40-43-47-51-54-58-63-67-71-76-81-87-95-101-110 % change 14-7-9-7-7-7-9-7-5-7-7-7-9-7-9 |
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