Winter Commuting Bike advice
#1
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Joined: Jul 2012
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From: DC Metro
Winter Commuting Bike advice
I have been looking into getting a winter commuting bike and I am not too sure what to get. I live in the DC metro area and we tend to get more ice and wintery mix than anything else. I currently commute 10 miles to work each way on my Trek Madone. I know that using the Madone in the winter might not be the best thing for the bike given the conditions. I have read in quite a few articles that single speed bikes are a good option. What is everyone else riding? what do you suggest? My budget is $300 -$400 and I am open to any suggestions.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
#2
Take a look at the Winter Cycling forum. All kinds of helpful tips, tricks, and pics. https://www.bikeforums.net/forumdispl...Winter-Cycling
#4
Very, very Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
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From: Chicago
Bikes: 2012 Surly Troll, 1999 Hardtail MTB
Or you should be able to pick up an old hardtail mountain bike, nobby tires. Probably good with the slush, and it sounds you might not need studded tires. It will be an adjustment for the Madone, no doubt.
#6
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Joined: May 2009
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From: Chicago
Bikes: 2012 Surly Troll, 1999 Hardtail MTB
Not sure your experience riding MTBs, but it will be a dramatic difference from the Madone. You'll be noticeably slower.
#7
For 3-400$ the torker graduate with drum brakes might be a good choice. I have a "customized" peugeot 5 speed with drum brakes and it's super nice to ride in the winter. There's not really any plausible way to contaminate the brakes and while they don't work as well as good hydraulic discs would, they are low maintenance and very predictable. My ride is a bit heavy but a new graduate wouldn't be quite as heavy as mine, and it doesn't come with a dynamo hub up front either so that'd be more money but I'd want one doing 32km every day in the winter it seems like batteries would get expensive but usb charging works for those that have computers at work. The nicest thing about the SA 5 speed hub is that they make many different shifters and they are pretty cheap on ebay if you wanted to upgrade to drops. The new torker is a bit more than I remember though looking at that page so Ima just gush about drum brakes instead... even upgrading a used MTB's front wheel to a drum/dynohub would give a solid brake and power for lights, basic cheap ones on ebay are okay for city use in my built-up city. I have nicer B&M lights on another bike and they are great if you can afford them.
#8
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From: DC Metro
Very much depends on your terrain (if you need gears) and if the conversion can be done easily (and cheap). In my experience, slush/salt isn't good but it doesn't exactly melt your chain and cassette. So even if you have to pick up a new chain and a slightly used cassette after two winters, it probably won't break the bank.
Not sure your experience riding MTBs, but it will be a dramatic difference from the Madone. You'll be noticeably slower.
Not sure your experience riding MTBs, but it will be a dramatic difference from the Madone. You'll be noticeably slower.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,536
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From: central ohio
Bikes: 96 gary fisher 'utopia' : 99 Softride 'Norwester'(for sale), 1972 Raleigh Twenty. Surly 1x1 converted to 1x8, 96 Turner Burner
The weather in D.C. is similar to ours in central Ohio. You can always count on at least one or two heavy snowfalls. I find the different variety in gears to be an advantage when riding in bad weather.
#12
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From: DC Metro
#13
#14
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From: DC Metro
What tooth counts are you using for each condition?
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 635
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From: Washington, DC
Bikes: CAAD10 5, Trek 1000 Alpha Series
i commute in the same area and i will be getting one of these in january hopefully
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/uno.htm
this will be my every season commuter. right now i ride a road bike with very cramped 28s and no fenders.
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/uno.htm
this will be my every season commuter. right now i ride a road bike with very cramped 28s and no fenders.
#17
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From: DC Metro
I was looking at that bike myself. I am still torn between something new and something used. I think I am leaning more towards the used side to allocate more cash to some better components.
#19
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From: DC Metro
I will check it out. Any certain brand to look for? I have been looking for an old mtb on craigslist but most of the bikes I have seen have been ridiculously priced for what it is. I will just have to keep checking it.
#20
I agree with the thought to buy an old mountain bike. Around here you can find RockHoppers by the dozen for cheap. I saw on CL 3 early 90 models. Remember your fit on the Madone will be different compared to any mountain bike. I may be able to dig up something, too.
#21
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From: DC Metro
Will have to check out CL again. I haven't had a chance to look at it today. I use to ride an old Hard rock and it was a 19" with 26" wheels. An old one would be perfect. thanks Teamdarb. Are you commuting year round as well?
#22
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Joined: Apr 2011
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Brands do not matter. All you should care about is mechanical quality and size/fit.
#23
born again cyclist
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,412
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From: Chicago
Bikes: I have five of brikes
after that bike was killed by a bus, i upgraded to a Scott SUB 10 hybrid which has an alfine 8 IGH and hydraulic disc brakes. just as on my old raliegh, in winter i swap out the slicks for studded tires. it's a splendid tool for the job, but a little spendy at $1,200, and well outside of your price range. if you're trying to stay on budget, you can do a lot worse than finding an old used hard-tail to upgrade.
#24
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From: DC Metro
What's wrong with this bike for $100? https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/n...422904604.html
Brands do not matter. All you should care about is mechanical quality and size/fit.
Brands do not matter. All you should care about is mechanical quality and size/fit.
#25
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From: DC Metro
my first foul weather/winter commuter was an old mid-90s raleigh hard-tail that I modified with a rigid fork and fenders. it was an awesome machine, but the canti rim brakes and derailleur drive-train were less than ideal on the messiest of winter days. during the winter season i would swap out the slicks on the wheels for studded tires (i had taken a few spills on ice before i got wise to the importance of studded tires).
after that bike was killed by a bus, i upgraded to a Scott SUB 10 hybrid which has an alfine 8 IGH and hydraulic disc brakes. just as on my old raliegh, in winter i swap out the slicks for studded tires. it's a splendid tool for the job, but a little spendy at $1,200, and well outside of your price range. if you're trying to stay on budget, you can do a lot worse than finding an old used hard-tail to upgrade.
after that bike was killed by a bus, i upgraded to a Scott SUB 10 hybrid which has an alfine 8 IGH and hydraulic disc brakes. just as on my old raliegh, in winter i swap out the slicks for studded tires. it's a splendid tool for the job, but a little spendy at $1,200, and well outside of your price range. if you're trying to stay on budget, you can do a lot worse than finding an old used hard-tail to upgrade.





