I paid $976 for my 2013 black cross check at REI during their recent sale (ended May 27). REI doesn't stock hospital foam and it wasn't worth $175 extra (normal REI price is $1150). I think REI's next bike sale is mid-august or thereabouts.

Oh, the barcons aren't bad, and I was also worried about brakes on the drops but it hasn't been an issue for me (so far).

I was also considering the Raleigh Roper, which was more than the Cross Check, but it has interruptors and better components. My local REI doesn't sell Raleighs and it wasn't worth it (to me) to drive 2+ hours...

Agreed, your actual commuting route would have the biggest influence on the choice of bikes.

+1

Try it and see if you like the riding position. I've put 6900 miles on mine in just over two years riding 19 miles round trip year round--it takes studded tires, it takes panniers, and the cockpit has everything at your fingertips. It's also a fairly inexpensive way to get into commuting.

On a seven mile commute, wind isn't going to be a big deal in terms of travel time.

Good luck with your search, and welcome to commuting.

Depending on where in Malden you are, you probably won't have to deal with much of this path on your actual commute, but I took my Volpe on the Northern Strand trail this afternoon. It hasn't been properly paved yet, so it's all fairly hard-packed gravel...the Volpe handled it beautifully.

can anyone give and pros/cons for the surly cross check vs the long haul trucker for commuting? i don't carry a heavy load, really.

The Long Haul Trucker only lets you use road-size wheels if you get one of the larger frames.

Both bikes have bar-end shifters, which means taking your hands off the brakes each time you want to shift. I personally *really* dislike that. It's not as bad as the old downtube shifters, but it's so easy to find other bikes that have normal brifters on them that I just don't like barends.

You may have your heart set on dropping big coin on a bike, but craigslist is loaded with great commuter stock for less than 300 bucks. 90's steel mtn bikes like hard rocks are easily found for 100 bucks, add 300 bucks for gear and you have hours of research and bike part shopping to look forward to. Added bonus: the bike is one of a kind.

If you keep it up for a year, then drop the big bucks.

I ended up getting the Crosscheck. I've been commuting with it for the past week now, and loving every minute of it - well, maybe not the instance when I almost got "right hooked".
Thanks for the advice!

To add: I actually don't mind the bar end shifters now. On my commute, I don't need to change gears much, and for whatever reason, I like the click-click sound that it makes as feedback when I do change gears.

You should ride whatever you enjoy. :-)

I just don't like them myself...

nice. i really am curious about the bar end shifters - i've honestly never seen them on a road bike before (i'm just getting back into biking so i've missed a lot of stuff lol). did they give you options to upgrade to brifters at all?
overall how is the weight of the bike and how nicely does it take a rear rack and panniers - have you found it holds up enough for a regular to-work commute? would you be able to do some light touring on it?

i'd love to know your impressions about the whole thing.

since i am heavily leaning toward a cross check can you tell me what about them you don't specifically like?

You have to take your hands off the brakes to shift, so you can end up with your hands elsewhere when you suddenly need to brake. It's difficult to turn as well while shifting. I usually have a good grip on the bars while pedalling uphill as well - lots of shifting there.

Some people say "I don't shift that often", but that kind of shifting, braking, and turning at the same time often takes place in the middle of an intersection - the absolute last place I need another distraction.

Some people will say "you still have one hand on the brakes" - if you lock up your front wheel by accident (because you're used to having both hands on the brakes) you can flip yourself over the handlebars. I did that once on my mountain bike while stupidly trying to button close a pocket that had come open with one hand while not stopping. Ended up on my back, over the bars, in the middle of the woods. It's a lot less likely to happen on a skinny-tire bike, because of the lower braking power, but I'm not fond of it.

Look, non of this is a deal breaker. If I got this bike for free in college, I'd definitely ride it and everything. You just have to slow down and be more careful. But when I'm buying new - hell no. In fact in high school I did actually pay several hundred more for a bike with brake-integrated shifters rather than going for the bar-end shifter model that was cheaper. I just find barends very annoying.

I carry about 10-15 pounds to work each morning on my water bottles and rear rack. I don't feel the weight at all when I'm riding, and the bike feels quick and nimble enough - however, my point of comparison is to a old heavy department store MTB that I used to ride as a kid, and I think anything feels quick and nimble compared to that!

I've attached a couple pictures - one without and one with the Topeak bag/pannier. I think one could do light touring without any problems. According to the LBS, one of the pros of the bar-end shifters is how robust they are, and they specifically mentioned how that's great when touring and in the middle of nowhere, to have reliable gear shifting system.

PS: There was no option to change the gear shifters on the Cross Check. Another LBS suggested the All-City Space Horse if I really didn't like the bar-end shifters. The Space Horse is at a higher price point, but he said it's very similar to the Cross Check and in general a better bike. I didn't get to ride it thought because they didn't carry one in my size.

I live near "The Path to the Sea" so I know the hard-packed gravel you speak of. Glad to hear that your Volpe handled that beautifully! I look forward to doing that path in the near future.

great looking bike.

Agree, I too hate to shift around intersections. Which is exactly why I don't. Instead, I commute 30 miles round trip on a single speed. Mostly flat roads except for a few rollers and 2 bridges.

With the SS, I still make it to work around the same time as my old gear driven heavy steel MTB converted as a commuter and my geared road bike. So yes, I'm one of those who think that gearing and all the shifting is over rated. Except for climbing mountains and hills, or battling strong headwinds, I doubt most people need all those gears.

And in case someone mistakes me as an elite cyclist, don't. I'm not that strong of a rider, almost 57 years old and still have some pounds to lose.

Since bar ends are supposed to be very reliable, these should work well on a commuter, and if safety is a concern, just limit the number of shifts and shift only when it's safe.

Commuter16, nice bike, congrats! And good for you to start commuting.

Good choice on the cross check. Anything with a steel frame that would fit a 35c tire and up, and braze-ons would work so long as the components are good and size is correct. It really just boils down taste and if the bike fits you after that. That is a very nice commuter. I was going to suggest the nashbar touring bike, it is 699 and comes with 105 shifters. I have been eyeing that bike for long distance touring.

I also bought a cross check this year for everyday commuting. I had an aluminum/carbon road bike with brifters, and I really didn't notice any convenience issue switching to barend shifters. People sometimes complain about cantilever brake performance, but they've worked fine for me too. One benefit of them is that they can travel a lot farther, so you don't need them to sit as close to the wheel. Consequently, you don't have to fiddle with their positioning as much-- they never rub.

As far as carrying loads for touring, I really can't imagine a load big enough to cause a problem. I don't have a front rack, but I've frequently carried $100 of groceries on my 10-mile commute (including beer, gallons of milk, watermelons... heavy stuff) and I've never had a problem.

My only gripe is that my stock bike had its steerer tube cut too much for my taste. It felt right to me at first because I was used to the road bike position. But once I went through the effort of raising my bars a bit, I realized I will never go back! That's not a problem with the cross check, because the uncut steerer tube is plenty long. But if you buy the complete bike they seem to always set it up with a really agressive position. You might want to ask them if they would leave the bars a little higher. You can always cut more later, but you can't add it back, and a new fork is $100.

Overall I've loved the bike, and I'm very happy. Oh, and I paid basically list price for it in Minneapolis.

I like cross bikes for commuting and I even like bar ends but everyone's tastes differ. I'll 2d the suggestion for a mountain bike for commuting in a town like Boston. It's a busy city and having bulletproof wheels is good. If the OP has any mechanical skills, he or she can pick up a prima vintage rigid mtb for a heck of a lot less than the $1200 that the cross check (or a similar bike) runs and have plenty of money left over for a front wheel build with a generator hub, panniers, etc.

Here's one: https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/bik/3830123895.html

There are plenty more; you just need to find one in your size. These bikes do not command a premium in the used market and you won't feel bad if you decide to lock up your commuter somewhere like say the T station when the weather is really awful (not that the weather ever gets bad in Boston, .

Edit: I use a vintage MTB for commuting (a 1988 stumpjumper comp); the bike rides great. You need to be comfortable doing your own work on a bike but that is a skill you will need to develop if you plan on commuting.

+1 I agree..I've stopped using gears many years ago, and only ride FG/SS. After riding this way for the last few years I am still amazed how easy it is to get around with one gear. I've also done few long distance rides in rolling terrain on my SS and it has never been a problem for me.

It's not hard to put STI shifters on -- I'm surprised they wouldn't do that swap for you (in fact, so surprised I'd consider another LBS, but that's another discussion). Couple of hundred bucks, less what you sell the shifters and brake levers for. You could add cross levers, as well, which are great for commuting and touring.

Or maybe you'll grow to love the bar-end shifters.

Nice looking bike.

no, i totally understand. i often shift up one gear to the 2nd smallest cog so it's just a tad easier to start off from a stop sign or the red light, as i approach the intersection. right now i have the rapid fire thumb trigger shifters on my MTB, and i find that so ridiculously convenient and easy. i can see how having to completely move your hand and arm quite a distance to the end of the bar could pose a problem.
for the same reason i was never a fan of the old-fashioned shifters mounted on the down tube. they're so far out of the way it was uncomfortable. i didn't end up getting the bike simply because of that.

i have the topeak rack/bag w/fold out panniers system as well - awesome to see it in use on the bike. thanks!
what size frame / tires did you get? how tall are you? I'm 5'5", but I like a slightly larger frame than I should be fitted to.
i definitely don't carry more than 10 pounds to work with me. just simple work clothes, and papers and a lunch. so iguess i should be fine!
i will say i am kind of annoyed you can't upgrade the shifters - but i guess that's also surly's thing - this is the reliable bike you need that will just keep on hauling so here it is take it or leave it.

awesome - thanks for the feedback!
with the bar end shifters sticking out do you ever accidentally hit them when you're riding, or loading/unloading the bike from a rack? i look at them in pictures sometimes and i just say "man they look like they're going to be in the way!"
do you flip them down to shift to smaller cogs, and up to the larger? also how do they function? is it a simple click and you're there, or is it like the old fashioned ones on 90's MTBs where you had to move that damn thumb thing to just the right spot of it didn't shift or it made a clickety clackety sound

there is only one bik shop here that carries surly's and i have not had a chance to go see them, it's not a convenient store location at all. also i won't be buying one until after we move to another state anyway - just trying to get a feel for the bike and if it's something i really want to check out!

right now i commute on a late 90's giant rincon MTB. but i'm looking to extend my options and try something new with a little more umph!

They're not in the way for me. A handful of times my knee has bumped it when doing something awkward while getting on or off, but that's all. All that does is shift the gear.

they're indexed just like other shifters, so they click from gear to gear. They have a switch so you can switch them to pure friction shifting, but most people just like to have that option in case their derailleur gets bent during a ride.

Congrats on the bike. I picked up a Cross Check a few weeks ago and after getting a 54 and having to exchange it for a 56 that fits me perfectly, I am loving it. This is my first bike with drop bars let alone bar end shifters and I have no issue. I also don't shift much and usually stay in one gear for much of my commute. On weekend rides I hit hilly areas of the city and have to shift but after a couple of weeks I find that shifting is second nature. I can easily shift with one hand without taking my eyes off the road and keep the other hand covering the brake in case I need to stop and the whole thing takes all of 1.5 seconds before both hands are back on the bars so I think people are really over thinking if that is a reason not to own this bike.

I assume you using the shifters in friction mode? That is what I do and I love it much more then the index shifting I had on my old mountain bikes

Personally, I respect a single speed a lot more than bar end shifters. A single speed has a LOT less things that need to be maintained - no front derailler, no rear derailler, likely longer chain life because the chain isn't changing chainrings, much cheaper rear chainring, cheaper front chainring, cheaper because there's not shifter at all...

And frankly, it just sounds pretty cool. :-)

Bar end shifters are the worst of everything in my opinion. It still has all the complexity and maintenance of a shifting system, but without the convenience of having your hands always on both the shifters and the brakes.

I've owned 3 road bikes, and *never* had a regular shifter break. And I've never heard of a regular shifter breaking except in a very very serious crash. It's a bit like "well this shifter will last you 80 years, and this other one will last you 160 years!" - who care, lol, I'll be dead - or at least on another bike by that time. :-) It's only advantage is a very minor upfront cost difference, and I don't think it's worth it.