I'm relatively new to biking seriously. I've logged maybe 3-4K miles on my hybrid and thanks to my 700x38c tires, I have yet to have a flat. I'd like to start commuting every now and then. My trip to work is 15 miles one way. I know eventually I'm going to have a flat. I presently pack a spare tube, tire levers, and a CO2 system. I noticed many people pack a pump rather than a CO2 system. Is there any reason to prefer one over the other?

I've noticed a lot of discussion about water resistant panniers and such. I do a lot of backpacking and one of the cheap tricks our group uses to waterproof backpacks is a very simple and inexpensive heavy wall trash bag. You can get them in various sizes, from waste basket to 55 gallon barrel liners. They are available at places like Home Depot, Lowes and other such places. They are usually called "contractor" bags. Just put the stuff you don't want to get wet in the bag, squeeze out some of the air, twist the top of the bag, fold it back down on itself and secure the top with a twist tie, removable zip tie, or even one of the clips that snap shut to hold potato chip bags closed. This will keep your stuff dry in most cases even if you fall over and the bag gets submerged. And if it gets torn, you're out a nickel or so and a spot of packing tape will let you still use it for trash.

Ordinary ziplocks will protect cell phones, pagers, pda's, i-pods and such. Double bag expensive items.

You have to carry C02 with you, in the event of multiple flats, you will get owned. A pump on the other hand, while requiring a bit more work, will NEVER run out of air.

I am new here and I am considering buying a new bike as my old one was stolen from my apartment complex. I am looking for something relatively inexpensive but also something decent that I could ride to work and school, I like this idea of commuting and since i am in arizona this would be great... except for the middle of summer! :) but does anyone have any suggestions on an affordable bike (maybe around $500 or less would be ideal?) for commuting? keep in mind most of my riding would be on street but often some of the streets gather some sand and dirt that i would go through.

thanks alot everyone.
josh

This forum gave me two bits of advice and I'm am very grateful.
#1 FENDERS - Just do it!
#2 Topeak trunk bag (with panniers) and the quick attach rack. You'll forget the high price after 1 week of happy use.

I commute to work (23km one way) 3 times a week. Most of the ride is in traffic and there is one significant hill with 10% grade. After 6,000 km of accident free commuting, these are my ideas.

1. Safety first – Choose a ROUTE that doesn’t put you on narrow streets with lots of parked cars. Don’t listen to music on headphones…hearing that car coming up behind you may just save your life. SLOW DOWN – At those points on the commute which have a higher danger quotient, slow down. I know by experience the danger zones on my commute and even though I could take them much faster, I keep my speed down. That attitude has saved my bacon several times. Leave early enough that you don’t have to sacrifice safety for speed. HELMET - I always wear a helmet, and I chose a yellow colored one. Get a MIRROR that gives you a good field of vision (I have a Cycle Star brand I like). My mirror mounts in the end of my handlebar. The mirror is on a 3 inch plastic stick that extends it past where your view might be obstructed by your arm. Wear HI-VIS YELLOW jerseys or coats. At night, make sure you have lots of FLASHING LIGHTS ( I have 3 on my bike for night riding) and wear clothing made with the ILLUMINITE reflective material. Make sure you have a good set of BRAKES that stop you in on a downhill even in a good rain (I have Shimano Deore brakes). CELL PHONE – I always take a cell phone with me so that in a worst case scenario, I can call emergency services. TOOLS – tire pressure gauge, spare tube, levers to change tire, allen wrenches, screwdriver.

2. Rain Gear? I love it when it rains because I have the bike path mostly to myself.. In the summer, I don’t care if I get wet. I just put on a rain jacket and leave the rain pants at home. I live in Japan so we have a rainy season, nevertheless, I don’t use much rain gear. In the winter, I don’t mind wet weather as long as it remains above freezing. Having had a few spills due to black ice patches, when it is wet and freezing, I park the bike.

3. Equipment – LIGHTS For those winter nights, I have a handlebar mounted dual light system (View Point) sold by Performance Inc. I wasn’t satisfied with any LED type light I tried. The dual light system is great and gives me plenty of illumination far enough ahead that I can react to obstacles. BRAKES – get whatever brakes that can stop you reliably in a short distance even in the rain. If they squeal and grab or if you can’t stop on a downhill in the rain, go to your dealer and get something that will. BIKE – I like the cyclocross type bike for commuting. It is strong enough for commuting but fast enough for weekend training rides. TIRES – I like 28 width better than 32’s because 28’s are strong enough for the commute but have less rolling resistance for longer training rides. I don’t think 28’s are any less comfortable than wider tires. Make sure the tires have Kevlar reinforcement. It adds weight but gives you more puncture resistance. DERAILLEUR – I opted for the Ultegra front and rear derailleurs but given the weather conditions I ride in and the hill I climb, I might have been better off with the Deore LX or XT. PACK – I try to keep things light and uncomplicated on my bike so I have no panniers. I use a waterproof Ortlieb backpack and put all my stuff on my back. I think it is easier and less of a hassle to use a waterproof backpack and it is not at all uncomfortable. LOCK – I have 2 locks. One is a Kryptonite that goes around the frame and tires. The 2nd lock is a longer wire type that goes around some immovable object and my bike.

4. Clothes and Personal Hygiene - I leave several sets of clothes and a pair of shoes at work and always keep a set of clean underwear, and socks. In the winter I leave a sweater or two there too. On daily trips, I take a set of underwear and socks plus a shirt each day. Also, I pack a damp washcloth in a zip loc bag so that I can quickly wash up after I arrive. Don’t forget the deodorant.

I was always told my people that those jackets make a more visible target to hit. A Florida DPS Officer told me those old folks use that hood ornament as a targeting sight!

Total B***S***. And from a cop, no less. You may politely ignore anything they tell you from now on.

I suggest you visit a bike shop that sells Trek bikes, and see if you can save a few bucks by outfitting a "regular" Trek with all the gear. Chances are you don't NEED all those racks and pannier attachments, and you can probably get a better light than what's on there. Why buy extras that you don't need? Visit www.nashbar.com and check out prices on racks, lights, fenders and stuff. If you get it all on sale, you could probably outfit ANY bike for $100 or less.

jeff-o is right, the only way to see if you're getting a good deal is to price out the add-ons using online bike shops as guides. It's also hard to know what you'll need when you're just starting. When I bought my "commuter," I got a rack and with a trunk pack. It turned out not to be enough space, so I upgraded to panniers. Since you are starting, you might want to err on the side of not spending as much, and then buying what you find you need.

As to lighting, you will also want a rear blinkie. The LED headlight will be fine if you will only rarely ride after dark, but if you regularaly commute at night, you will probably want something brighter (in that case, I say get the best lighting you can afford).

I grew up when helmets were never worn in Australia. Since then it has become mandatory. I never really liked them but was approaching a roundabout one day, at about 30 km/hr standing on the pedals cruising just behind a car. The roundabout was clear and I was expecting the car in front of me to go straight through.

But somebody flew through the intersection, causing her to slam on her brakes. I ran up her rear end, and hit my forehead very hard on her rear window. My old foam helmet stopped my progress. I ended up standing astride my bike a little dazed.

After pulling my bike off the road, I took my helmet off and inspected it. It was badly broken, only held together by the velcoed foam. Saved my skull I think.

I kept that helmet hanging on a hook above my bike for the next 12 months so I would always remember what it did.

a

A lot of people mention helmets, but for most minor spills you are more likely to injure your hands. Wear the helmet, but also use gloves. I have worn off 1mm of leather in a very minor, low speed spill.

driving my cage, I can tell you that at night, reflective stuff and lights help! Bikers are *invisible* otherwise! And those obnoxious fluorescent yellow jackets are lifesavers, closely followed by at least wearing yellow like you're leading in the Tour. And don't cover that beautiful yellow up with some drab colored messenger bag etc., get a yellow one! And keep the batts fresh in your head/taillights, I rolled down the window and told one biker he needed new batts in his taillight, he was dressed in dark stuff and his taillight would have made him very visible, if it weren't very dim. Those poor red LEDs were barely forward biased. (On the other hand, lotsa voltage can make your red LEDs yellow, for a short while!)

Are you talkin' about the 3 mil bags?? Those things are crazy thick.

Another thing, at first when you're commuting, you're going to be STINKY when you sweat. It will take a little while, but eventually you'll find that your sweat becomes odorless - there's two kinds of sweat, nervous/stress sweat, the stinky kind, and athletic sweat, which doesn't have the pheromones or whatever in it. If you're not used to intense exercise, your body will just make the stinky kind. After a while your body learns there's no need for that, it's not a life or death situation, it's normal, and just makes the wet kind, nonstinky, which dries pretty quick, what little you'll get, once you get to work.

one thing i have found useful for preventing flats is to get inner tubes with removable valve heads, and to squeeze tufo tubular sealant (meant for tubulars but works in inner tubes as well) in there - since I did this to my bikes I haven't had a flat yet.

BO has nothing to do with pheromones. All sweat is odorless. What causes BO is bacteria that live on your skin consuming oil from certain oil producing sweat glands (not as numerous as water producing sweat glands). Actually it's the bacteria's waste products. Assuming you were clean before your ride, you won't stink right away after a ride. It takes time for the bacteria to do their nasty work. If you shower before your ride and use anti-bacterial soap, then use an anti-perspirant + deodorant, you can head off BO. The oil producing sweat glands are most predominant in areas where you have hair. So you can take a washcloth or a sponge, and give yourself a sponge bath in those areas after your ride, and greatly reduce the problem also.

as a new commuter, I'm in the market for some tools. I was thinking of just getting a multi-tool. Will this be sufficient for both on the road repairs, and some basic repairs at home or will I want anotehr set for home? Remember, I'm not doing complete bike builds here. Just changing out some tires, pedals, doing some tuning, etc. Which of these multi-tools do you all recomend:

Topeak Hexus
Topeak Alien 2

Also, I need to know HOW to do repairs and such! I ride a mountain bike as my commuter, so I'm hesitant to get the oft-recomended Zin book. Anyone know if this one is any good:

Bicycling Magazine's Complete Guide to Bicycle Maintenance and Repair

Doesn't Zin have two books out; one for mountain bike maintenance and one for road bike maintenance?

Derek, I would go for the Hexus. It has tire levers and Allen wrenches, and those are the most important repair tools you can have. The Alien 2 seems to have more than most commuters would need.

As convenient as the multi-tools are for on-road repair, for work at home, you'll be much happier with a shop tool kit.

I have an older edition of the Bicycling Magazine repair book, and I do recommend it.

I've always said I like the Zinn book, but that it's not the be-all-end-all of bike mechanics books. So I'm curious, what makes you reluctant to get it?

My suggestion is the same as my opening post: Go to the library, check out a few books, and take them for a test-read. Then go to the book store and buy the one you find most helpful. Start by looking at the sections about the kind of repairs that are just above your level. Do you understand the instructions? If yes, it's a good book. If no, keep on looking.

Lot of great suggestions, and I may be repeating some of them. Here's my list of (not in any particular order, except the first):

- Wear a helmet.

- Intense-beam lights front and back, plus your stock reflectors.

- anti-puncture/pinchflat tires (Bontrager Hardcase Selects run relatively smooth). Best upgrade I put on my bike as I was getting flats halfway through my trip because of small bits of glass or metal.

- Keep your main krypto- or heavy lock at work (locked on the rack) and carry a small, lightweight coffee shop lock.

- If you're a rainy-day or all-season commuter, you need to get fenders and cycling rain gear. I say cycling rain gear because it's made to be breathable and you don't build up as much sweat underneath. My first rain-day commute I used an old rain coat and by the time I got to work, I was more soaked from sweat than rain. Keep your feet dry with waterproof socks or booties that go over you shoes. If you wear glasses, find your old pair and spray Rain-X on them and use them specifically for your commute.

- Carry some cash and a cell phone on you.

- Keep some spare clothing and shoes at work.

- Carry a small/lightweight bike multi-tool with you.

- Keep a spare pump at work.

Hope this helps!

What a great thread!!!! Thanks for the advice!!!

buy at least two tail lights. one now, one in a few weeks.

two or more blinking lights is WAY more effective. annoyingly eye catching, and if you space out the battery changes they won't all lose power at the same time.

Here's a tip that I have been using to carry my laptop on my commute back and forth to work.

I have a laptop bag that I carry on a rear rack. For quite some time I used a plain rubber bungie cord to strap it in place.. I found this to be very inconvenient on several occasions; when coming to a hard brake, hit a nasty bump or turn too sharply, the laptop bag would flip over the side of the rack and hang on the side.. it never hit the ground but would throw me completely off balance.

After some consideration, I got a cargo strap like the one below and trimmed the excess length down to a manageable size. Now I can put the laptop on the rack, strap it down and tighten it enough to prevent any movement when braking, hard turns or nasty bumps.

I'm live in a major metropolitan area, so these tips may not work (or even make sense) for everyone:

• Ride along a route with or near public transporation: If your bike fails, just hop on the train or bus, and let them get you close to your destination. Or hail a cab, put your bike in the trunk, and have the driver take you to the nearest LBS. :)
• Double-lock your bike: If your destination has public bike parking only, use two totally different security systems to lock your bike. Secure the cable or chain such that it will not move, and fill as much the space within the lock as possible.
  
  As an example, I use a braided steel cable going through the entire bike, with a padlock going through the cable loops and seat. The second lock is a short chain with enormous links and a small U-lock. I wrap the chain through the frame and real wheel, then send the lock through the chain links and the frame.

On lights: As an electrical engineer and amateur photographer, I must point out that the Watt is unit of measure for physical power. Watts can tell you how much power a light may consume, but its cannot tell you exactly how "bright" the light will be. For example, a 100 W incandescent light bulb may appear brighter or darker to the human eye than a 100 W halogen light bulb, depending on bulb type, fixture/enclosure, etc.

A far more useful unit of measure for light power or "luminous flux" is the lumen. The lumen will tell you how bright something appears to the human eye. Most packaging for household light bulbs have the number of lumens printed on the box. Cycling light manufacturers really should do the same.

Steven Scharf's website elaborates more on this from a cycling perspective.

Lumens may not be all that useful either because it doesn't tell you where the light is going, it's just a measure of how much total light is being produced by the bulb. It doesn't tell you much about how well the lamp is designed. You could have two lights with the exact same # of lumens and one could be much more effective if it focuses the light where you need it most.

Watts are not bad to go by if you're comparing LED to LED, Halogen to Halogen, etc. Watts are not a good thing to go by if you're comparing different technologies. The best measure is to compare them side by side and see what works best for you.

About the Bicyclign Magazine book on bike maintenance - I just bought it and it seems pretty good. I saw Zinn's books on road and mountain bikes, but since mine is a hybrid with a mixture of parts of both types, the all-in-one book was best for me.

I've read the magazine. It really is informative.