Commuting Brakes
#1
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From: Westminster, CO
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Commuting Brakes
So I am commuting on my 8 year old road bike. I added a rack on the back for panniers. Fully loaded, I probably add 20 lbs to an already 22 lbs bike. There is one spot on my commute where I go down a steep hill with a traffic light right in the middle of it. At times, I've had a little trouble stopping for this light. My bike has shimano caliper brakes like any road bike and I am wondering if I should think about switching to cantilevers somehow. Maybe I could switch to a cantilever compatible fork. I've heard cantilevers have more stopping power than calipers. What are your thoughts? Thanks.
Alan
Alan
#2
aka Tom Reingold




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It's not your brakes. Your rims might be dirty, or the brakes may need adjustment. You might try replacing the pads with Kool Stop pads. There are no better brake pads.
Cantilevers won't stop you any better.
Cantilevers won't stop you any better.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#3
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fify
I agree with Noglider that an extra 20lbs should not be taxing a quality caliper, which presumably your Shimanos are, unless you yourself are a very heavy person, possibly. I don't know 'very heavy' means practically, but a wild-assed guess would be well north of 300lbs. I dunno.
That said, mechanical advantage and stiffness are real factors in brake design, and some brakes are stronger than others. It's probably worthwhile for you to try new pads, however, and probably not worthwhile exploring canti mods.
I agree with Noglider that an extra 20lbs should not be taxing a quality caliper, which presumably your Shimanos are, unless you yourself are a very heavy person, possibly. I don't know 'very heavy' means practically, but a wild-assed guess would be well north of 300lbs. I dunno.
That said, mechanical advantage and stiffness are real factors in brake design, and some brakes are stronger than others. It's probably worthwhile for you to try new pads, however, and probably not worthwhile exploring canti mods.
#4
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+1 on the Kool-Stops -- they've greatly improved the braking power of every bike I've used them on. Also, are you using your front brake enough, or just squeezing the rear like a noob?
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html
#5
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Thanks guys. The Kool Stops are a great idea. I had looked into those a while ago, but haven't thought about them lately. I am definitely relying on my front brake for stopping on this hill. I'll try the pads on the front and see how it goes. BTW, I'm not heavy. Just 160 lbs.
#6
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And regular cleaning of the rims will make a world of difference. At least it did for me. No need to clean them too often when conditions are good, but during the cold months or if its raining a lot I use a degreaser to wipe the rims. It takes about a minute per wheel. I do it one once every one or two weeks during winter, and maybe once a month during the rest of the year.
#7
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And regular cleaning of the rims will make a world of difference. At least it did for me. No need to clean them too often when conditions are good, but during the cold months or if its raining a lot I use a degreaser to wipe the rims. It takes about a minute per wheel. I do it one once every one or two weeks during winter, and maybe once a month during the rest of the year.
Most of my colleagues that run hydraulic rim brakes recommend isopropanol (2-propanol) for rim surfaces. Throw them in a 37C incubator to evaporate the IPA in less than 5 mins.
edit: also be careful because certain "degreasers" contain certain compounds that react with/modify "rubber", so I wouldn't recommend a "degreaser" per se. Alcohols work the best, leave no residue and can be "evaporated" in a few mins with heat (LOW HEAT because they're flammable).
Last edited by acidfast7; 08-07-13 at 02:23 AM.
#8
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+1 on the KoolStops, they make a WORLD of difference. Only hint I can offer is to pulse the brakes and keep the speed lower from the top in order to reduce your braking effort at the bottom.
Now having said that I recently got a bike with hydraulic discs and will never go back to rim brakes again. They are just so nice and take so much less effort and have a great feel to them. They are well worth any weight penalty they incur. Need them? Nope, there is little justification for such an elaborate setup for my piddling needs, but dayum, there sure are nice.
Now having said that I recently got a bike with hydraulic discs and will never go back to rim brakes again. They are just so nice and take so much less effort and have a great feel to them. They are well worth any weight penalty they incur. Need them? Nope, there is little justification for such an elaborate setup for my piddling needs, but dayum, there sure are nice.
#9
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don't want to hijack thread but I have had similar problems
And regular cleaning of the rims will make a world of difference. At least it did for me. No need to clean them too often when conditions are good, but during the cold months or if its raining a lot I use a degreaser to wipe the rims. It takes about a minute per wheel. I do it one once every one or two weeks during winter, and maybe once a month during the rest of the year.
What kind of degreaser should I use?
Cyclocross bike with Tektro Onyx cantilevers.
#10
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If your brake lever is coming to the handlebar before endoing you there is something dangerously wrong with it regardless of the brake type. It is possible that you get poor braking while applying maximum force on the brakes but getting the lever all the way to the bar points that there is something wrong with brake setup. Check this thoroughly by yourself, or have it checked at a shop.
As of degreaser I use a "standard automotive" solvent used for washing car engines, industry machinery parts etc. It evaporates extremely fast and leaves no residue. For cleaning rims it behaves much like alcohol (mentioned in this thread) but it is several times cheaper.
As of degreaser I use a "standard automotive" solvent used for washing car engines, industry machinery parts etc. It evaporates extremely fast and leaves no residue. For cleaning rims it behaves much like alcohol (mentioned in this thread) but it is several times cheaper.
#11
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I even use the much maligned Cane Creek BRS200 on a road bike and they work great.
#13
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I've saved thousands by not having to buy new wheels/rims every 2 years...
#14
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If your brake lever is coming to the handlebar before endoing you there is something dangerously wrong with it regardless of the brake type. It is possible that you get poor braking while applying maximum force on the brakes but getting the lever all the way to the bar points that there is something wrong with brake setup. Check this thoroughly by yourself, or have it checked at a shop.
As of degreaser I use a "standard automotive" solvent used for washing car engines, industry machinery parts etc. It evaporates extremely fast and leaves no residue. For cleaning rims it behaves much like alcohol (mentioned in this thread) but it is several times cheaper.
As of degreaser I use a "standard automotive" solvent used for washing car engines, industry machinery parts etc. It evaporates extremely fast and leaves no residue. For cleaning rims it behaves much like alcohol (mentioned in this thread) but it is several times cheaper.
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