Do these two just not mix?? I put a patch on my tube, a parks glueless, self adhesive one ya know? Anyways...I waited 10 or 20 minutes and inflated it to 100 PSI...later that night the tire was flat....the patch had blow up where the patch was and had allowed the air to escape, is this normal or did I just do a bad patch job?

thats what I have heard. they are ok for lower PSI tubes. bummer as they would be pretty practial no having to worry about that pain in the rear little tube.
though I always bring a spare tube and patch at home.

Learned my lesson a couple weeks ago about just that.. they always worked fine on my mountain bike tubes, but I flatted on my 700x23's and tried to patch it up with the same glueless patches. Well, everything seemed ok until I pumped to about 90psi... then "ppfffffs". I carry a spare tube now.

I've also had the same experience with glueless patches and high-pressure tires. You can get around it if you are willing to smooth out the glueless patch so that there are no air bubbles and it adheres to the tube very well - more trouble than I want to take on the road. I just carry a spare tube (or two) and patch the hole the traditional way at home.

I've tried Specialized and Park patches: both are okay up to about 90psi, then they start to leak. If you're lucky, they leak down to 90 and you carry on riding. Neither are good on really hot days, either, the glue gets gooey and the patch slips.

Good for an emergency get-you-home, but hell, just carry a spare tube for that.

The glue is gooey and nasty so you can't easily remove one of these patches in order to re-patch or stick on a "proper" vulcanised patch instead. Chuck the tube = bad eco-karma.

Never had good luck with this combo. Patches seem to fail about half the time. I use the conventional kind.

They've never worked for me. Nice idea, but ......

If you're way out there, patch then swap in a new tube. So the patch gets time to cure while ur riding on the new tube. Then if you get another flat, swap again.
Otherwise, the patched tube is always good to limp home on.
Just make sure with glueless, you really clean and dry the surface before you do it and that it's not a snake bite near some seam or something. I patched a bite once that was on either side of a seam and the glueless held about 80psi for over 2 hours before slowly diminishing but still being limp-able.

I guess the prep of the tube before applying the patch is more important than I thought. I've been using Park self-adhesive patches on 95psi commuter tires for years, and have never had the sort of failure described in the preceding posts.

When I get a flat during the commute I put on a reserve tube. When I get the punctured one home I wipe the tube around the puncture with a damp cloth, dry it, and then lightly abrade it with the sandpaper patch that comes with the patch kit. When applying the patch I smooth it on with finger pressure to get a complete seal, being careful to get good contact with small ridges if the puncture is near a seam.

Tonight I just fixed the latest puncture on the rear tube and counted nine patches...the oldest was probably applied more than 18 months ago. I know that's a bit extreme...the tires have to be replaced in the next month and I'll get new tubes at the same time.

I got a puncture on the rear tire of my road bike last week and tried to use a glueless patch on it. I pumped up as high as I could comfortably get with my minipump and put about a mile on it and it was flat again. It was very near a seam, I don't know if that was the problem. I didn't have a spare tube, so I called my wife for a ride. The next day I went on down to the LBS for a new tube and a "real" patch kit. I peeled it and patched it with the glue and rubber patch. We'll see how it holds up

...

Blah use patches only in massive emergencies. 2 Spare tubes will do you good.

Glueless patch are not permanent in my book, I always carry the patch kit by Rema and a spare tube.

Interestingly, I called Park just a few days ago to discuss that very question. I have always considered pre-glued patches just a way to get you home after a flat when you have run out of CO2 (IOW, you are having a crap day). A recent thread made me wonder. Park claimed that their patches are just as strong as glueless patches as long as you clean the area to be patched and rough it up per standard procedure prior to applying the patch.

Interestingly, I called Park just a few days ago to discuss that very question. I have always considered pre-glued patches just a way to get you home after a flat when you have run out of CO2 (IOW, you are having a crap day). A recent thread made me wonder. Park claimed that their patches are just as strong as glueless patches as long as you clean the area to be patched and rough it up per standard procedure prior to applying the patch.

I've mostly given up on patching tubes... I've used both kinds of patches and they all seem to fail at least half the time.

I still carry a patch kit (currenly pre-glued) just in case, but I also carry a spare tube and use that first.

I have it on good authority that in applications where the psi exceeds 100psi they have a higher failure rate. I run Schwalbe Stelvios and Verdenstein Fortezzas at 130+ so I won't use them. I carry 2 tubes and a Rema patch kit.

Jude