I just ordered a pinhead set of skewers, headset and seatpost locks . I noticed that the only exposed bolts are my rack and saddles bolts.

I found a security bolt that uses a combination lock built into the head of the bolt, but it's from Germany and would cost me $50ish or more to get the one bolt plus shipping.

I figured the security torx bolts would be enough of a deterrent

Thoughts?

waste of money.

Idk about you but I don't like buying new parts. And since I just dumped five hundred more into my bike, I'd prefer not to have to hunt someone down for stealing my stuff.

You can fill the heads of the bolts with some plastic putty or even metallic putty ( AKA bodyfiller). Trust me it takes a bit of time with a very sharp tool to remove the filler before you can loosen the bolts. I've done that on my stem and headset bolt. My seat is secured with an old bike chain. The chain passes through the seat rail and around the frame.

anyone can buy a set of torx or security torx wrenches.

But the point is use a deterrent. By your logic, anyone can swing by Harbor Freight and pick up a cheap HD bolt cutter, so why even lock up your bike at all?

OP: Good on you for doing what you can to prevent theft. I personally don't go that far, but I can say I would have to bitterly eat my words if after work I discovered that someone had jacked my expensive WTB saddle.

I have not replaced any of my hardware w/security bolts but thats just because I very rarely leave my bike unattended. But I have thought about it many times.

As janMM points out anyone can get the specialty key to remove any bolt you use, and jfowler85s toungue in cheek statement about a thief buying a boltcutter are both very possible scenerios that would make your efforts mute but... if you want to deter the spur of the moment opportunistic jackhole from stealing your stuff go for it.

I would get torx for my stem, seatpost, and wheels.

the stem Id say is most important. take out 3 bolts, clip 3 cables, and you're out a fork, handlebars, stem, shifters, and a brake.

The pinhead set locks my stem, seatpost and wheels.

Only have my saddle and rack to worry about.

I seen the chain in the seat mod, I think it looks cool. I also seen handcuffs that do the same thing

I replaced the seat clamp bolt and seat post binder with security torx bolts on the bike I use locally to run errands. I also have skewers with security allen key heads on my wheels that I got from Velo Orange. While it is true someone can purchase the wrenches that fit these, or even knock-out the security pin, I'm not too concerned as the bike doesn't stay locked-up for long anywhere. It provides sufficient deterrence for opportunistic morons. I'm not in a particularly high bike-theft area anyway.

I also have a pair of old front and back racks on this bike, which I used a combination of allen, slotted and phillips head bolts on the theory that an opportunistic moron isn't likely to be carrying all the tools needed to remove them. Overall the bike frame (circa 1980 w/ragged paint job) makes it look like a crappy beater, despite decent parts on it.

If I were parking a more expensive bike for lengthy periods of time, I'd be inclined to carry a cable (or leave one locked to a rack if I use the same spot all the time) and loop it through the racks and seat rails.

You have to assess the particular security risk based on where you're locking-up and the value of the bike and balance it with the tradeoffs on cost of security methods, weight, etc. There's always a trade-off somewhere, regardless of what you do.

Te professional thief is going to get your bike no matter what you do, that is, if he or she wants it. The casual, walk by and snatch thief is the one locks and security bolts will deter. It can't hurt for the later.

Security bolts would be good for anything but a professional. The kids or drug addict tealing bikes for their next fix I would guess it is possible for them to be carrying allen wrenches. I wouldn't think they would buy security torx wrenches because it is likely one woul never come across something like that in their lifetime.

Regular torx would be no different than allen head. You can find an allen wrench that fits a/torx bolt and remove it just as easily. I drive a VW and most of the interior is torx. I don't have torx and used allen wrenches to disassemble for installing my sound equipment just as easily.

Just like anyone can buy a battery powered saw or grinder. Since no security setup is secure against a thief with the right tools, the idea is inconvenience to the thief and to get them to look for easier targets than your stuff.

That's actually the case for having a U lock and a cable lock. While neither is particularly secure, it requires two different sets of bulky tools to defeat.

My kids have had two bikes parked 24-7 at a major university in an urban area for 3 years with no issues despite rampant bike theft. They use a Kryptonite U-lock (orange one) locked using the Sheldon Brown Method and they have their wheels, fork and seat protected with PitLocks. Zero issues despite bikes being stolen (routinely) within 25' or even right next to theirs. Is it foolproof? Of course not. Does it work? Obviously.

Their bikes are old (late '80's) high quality road frames with Campy or Dura Ace components, custom wheels, quality tires and quality seats. We have about $125 in security on each bike which is a significant percentage of the value of the bike. That said, their transportation is more important to them beyond the value of the bike and my hassle in having to replace it after a theft.

J.

+1

And that is exactly the way it is with almost all theft. Use the same precautions and efforts to protect your home and person as you do your bicycle. Then buy insurance to cover your losses.

I always relate bike security to the theory of "You don't have to be able to out run the bear, just your friend". If you make your bike more difficult to steal than the one next to it, chances are the thief is going to go for the much easier target.

Exactly.

J.

If you want to secure your seat, you could just loop something under the mounting rails? I plan to do this with the next bike i get, as i'll be riding it much farther than the one i just laid to rest. I am not sure it's worth replacing screws in my instance, but i guess you could end up disuading potential thieves. There are other screws that you could use if you're willing to machine them yourself or having a shop machine them for you...

- Andy

Rudz,
I have also invested in Pinheads, as a Supplemental layer of Deterence to potential theft.
The dead sexay Fuji (IMHO) w/ a S/A Titanico saddle has received favorable comments from coworkers and non biking friends (which I'm cool with), as well as uummhh... shall I say, the Less "savory" and More uhh, "aromatic" residents of the 'Economically Estranged Areas' of L. A. Downtown (cool? Not So Much!).

This in an attempt to reduce the amount of 'Ballast' I carried for theft mitigation.
I still lock up the Trek 520 w/ a Krypto NYFU, On-Grd Brute std.(older 5001 series) and a 10 mm cable thru S/A Titanico saddle and water bottle mounts in worse case scenarios (ex. In and around Big City college campus, LACC, USC, UCLA,etc. Skid Row and/or Downtown Central Library of Los Angeles Public Library, where my last bike was ripped, an Old Ross or Murray beach cruiser locked with a high quality 'Armored' cable lock! on a bright sunny day!.....
I subsequently became a Charter Member of "RIDERS BETRAYED BY CABLE LOCKS"............
Wait... Uhm... Never Mind.

Addressing your op,
My thought was why not stay w/ Pinheads? (humbly assuming, that you might be unaware) you can order pinheads to lockdown the stem, seat post and SADDLE CLAMP, setup to work w/ your ORIGINAL pinhead key.

This is what I did, ordering the three items I mentioned above, (also ordered an extra duplicate pinhead key, that built in bottle opener is just So handy!!) to compliment the wheel locks I had purchased a few months earlier.

I already ordered the seat post and headset locks, along with the skewers . I was worried about someone removing the saddle bolts and walking off with it

I think I'm going with security torx bolt the rack and saddle, pinhead on the rest. I have a Onguard u lock and cable I use at work, buying a smaller stronger u lock to carry with me, along with another cable. So if they want it they still have to cut off a thick cable and saw off my u lock.

I am mostly worried about opportunistic thieves, I don't leave my bike in the ghetto or in high traffic areas where a professional thief might lurk.

As someone who works in the ghetto, there are no professional bike thieves here. Nothing but crappy POS bikes, whether X-mart specials, or free bikes from the local bike ministry. Nothing the pros want here.

Plenty of opportunistic thieves, though, and the public library is one of those places where they can reliably find unlocked and poorly locked bikes.

Fortunately, mine have a hook on the wall of the server room. Although the cornerboys I ride past routinely offer five bags for my painted bikes. The full Dura-Ace bare Ti Litespeed completely escapes their notice.


ON-TOPIC: I run the four-piece Pitlock set (2 skewers, seatpost bolt, threadless headset cap) on my bikes. Well, the Litespeed is threaded, so I have a spare threadless cap. As for the rest, I've not bothered. What I'd do first would be the stem faceplate bolts. I don't see racks as something high on the list of strippable parts.

Agree with tsl,
Never had anyone mess with the racks on the 520 touring bike, even when it was my brand new "Do Everything Bike", commuter and errand runner for 10 yrs. Did have a bottle cage ripped off on campus though (almost got both cages).

wanted security Allen , and the fastener store refused to sell to me , a non industrial customer ..

assumed They were made to protect against the likes of me ..

have premium part on a $ 10,000 bike ? Atomic22 - The ultimate bicycle security solution

Correct

Installing the pinhead locks today. Waiting on the seat clamp, but the skewers and headset installed fine.

old chain inside a piece of old innertube.loop one end through the frame and other through the seat rail.
common theft deterrent for the seat mast.