Lights can help you be more visible in inclement weather, or when overcast conditions cuts the ambient light.

Drum brakes are really good for hilly areas, or any situation where you want moderate yet reliable stopping power with minimal upkeep.

Maybe combining a drum on back, dyno hub on front, and use the dyno to charge devices & leaves the option to get lights at a later time...?

My bike has the N360 on the back, so no drum brakes or disc brakes possible there. Changing the front fork would allow disc, i think.

I think you should at least consider it......

- Andy

OK, the parts came so I made a few changes.

Changed the saddle to Brooks B67,
Put on a more classic Pletscher style rear rack,
Use retro alloy pedals.

I think that's perfect! Its now a period correct Raleigh Sports bicycle - really better made than the high end Superbe model of the time.

Thanks NormanF. Not quite a Superbe yet because it still needs a drum/dynamo front hub . These generic dual pivot brakes work really well (I am really surprised). I have a Stumpjumper M2 Pro with XTR V-brakes and I would say these calipers on the Oxford are just as strong and flex-free.

I really like the rack I used. I did not choose the deluxe model because I wanted to put this Pletscher style on rather than the stock rack.

The strengths of this bike are the frame, brakes, the rims, the Nexus-3 hub, the kickstand (very strong, stronger than the Greenfield models) and the grips.

The weakness are the chain-ring (too much out of round), and the (low) spoke tensions. I have added a full turn now (half a turn before riding and another half a turn after riding a bit) and I think they need a little more after a few more miles of riding.

The chain came too tight so I loosened it a bit. The Nexus-3 hub ticks a little too loud (I have three other older Shimano three speed hubs and they are quiet). So I added about 15 drops of oil into the push pin hole and it is a bit more quiet now.

Late for this discussion, but as a former Michigander, I like what Detroit Bikes has done with the 3-speed Model A. My bro-in-law got one and it is a pretty sweet ride, nice lines:

It's not your imagination. IGHs feel like molasses at cold temps. I have a Giant Seek 0 (Alfine 8, Shimano hydraulic discs) and I'm doing an oil bath before winter. It has about 1200 miles on it right now after last winter. I don't ride that beast one mile more than I have to.

I just got the lockring tool so I can tear the tranny down, I need to remember to stop by the auto parts store on the way home and get some ATF.

I like that reflector on the rear fender.

Not liking that tiny front fender!!!

I had not noticed a difference on my 4 speed in winter. The only times i ever had to put more effort onto the pedals is when my tires were not topped off to max range. Front was 80 psi, rear was 65, always ran at 80 and 65. Same really with my breezer, if i don't have both at 80, it feels like i just rode into freshly laid tar. My old pump had a jar of corn oil fall over and dump into it, which made plunger and pressure gauge sticky. Seems like for the last 6 years i've been under-inflating based on use of new pump with super accurate gauge & lack of goop spilled onto it..... Even with seat raised a bit more, it seems easier, even the other day when it was 45 and i've ridden it when it was 100 out this past summer so..... i dunno what to tell you there........

- Andy

& The whole bend the top tube just to not meet the seat tube higher up is Silly.

Note the lack of a front reflector or light.

Agree that the stubby front fender appears to be close to worthless.

I had my rear wheel off last weekend, and it's super sticky when I rotate it by hand.

But makes for a lower standover. They only make one size,so that was obviously done to allow more people to fit.



They come with a front reflector.



That one was either removed,or you just can't see it in the pic. I usually pull the reflectors off my handlebars since I always run lights.

Just add a long mudflap. FYI,mudflaps cause less of an issue with toe-overlap than fenders.

Got it. If you add lights it will have lights and if you add a basket it will have a basket, and if you add enough stuff it might resemble a bike that already has that equipment; assuming of course the cyclist doesn't remove it.

Nice bike, but being an owner of both a Windsor Oxford and a vintage Raleigh Sports, I can 100% guarantee the quality and craftsmanship of the Raleigh is much better. True, it is also heavier and more prone to rust, but also more stout and certainly built to last. The SA 3 speed hub alone will outlast the Shimano one on the Windsor, even if it's already 40 years older to start with.

[MENTION=133344]cobrabyte[/MENTION]'s comment reminds me that I often refer people to this post: Lovely Bicycle!: Lovely Bicycles on a Budget: Vintage vs Modern

We have four European City bikes with IGH's. Three Retrovelos and a Workcycles. All four bikes, are heavy-duty, steel-framed, heavy urban bikes.

The Retrovelo Paul and Paula have Nexus 8-speed IGH's and roller brakes. We've found the Nexus hubs to be pretty foolproof. We did have to swap out the rear cog on the Paula to cope with the long steep hills in Seattle, but that was easy. The roller brakes are OK for flat country, but in hilly country like Seattle, there are a little anemic on long descents. Probably best for riders weighing well under 200 lbs. The Paul is ridden in Tucson, where it is very flat and the Nexus hub and roller brakes work great.

We also have a Retrovelo Alfons with an Alfine 11-speed hub, which is wonderful. That bike is ridden in Seattle too, and both the chainring and rear cog were swapped to lower the overall gearing. With the lower gearing it is nice to have the 11 speeds, so there is still a good top end. Like mentioned by someone else, the Alfine hubs use an oil bath instead of grease and I just recently changed my oil for the first time. It was pretty easy to do. You change the oil through a port in the hub at about 700 miles and then every couple of years thereafter. The hub does not require disassembly to change the oil. The Alfons came with disc brakes, which have been upgraded in the front from 160 mm to 203mm rotors - again, to cope with a large rider on Seattle's big hills. This would not be necessary in flat country.

Finally, we have a WorkCycles Secret Service with a NuVinci 360 CVT rear hub. The Nuvinci appears to be a absolutely bulletproof. We like that it has continuously variable gearing, rather than discrete speeds. That bike is ridden in Tucson, where it is flat and the weight of the bike and hub is not a factor.

Bottomline, all three IGH's, the Nexus 8-speed, Alfine 11-speed and NuVinci 360 have worked great for us.

for a person with the name "Augsburg" it's seems that you know little about European City bikes and seem much more like an advert!

Wow, I've never had anyone make fun of my online name before. If it helps, I live in the US (evident from my post) and only use "augsburg" because I was born in a U.S. Army hospital in Augsburg when my father was stationed in Germany when he was in the army. So sorry, no advertisement here. Just relating my experience.

I guess I'm confused?

You're saying that those bikes are better than what's ridden in Europe? Or they're similar?

My original post had to do with our experience with bikes we own with three types of IGH's. The IGH's are the subject of this thread. Our bikes happen to be what we in the States might call "European City Bikes". These bikes (our Retrovelos and WorkCycles) are decidedly different than what is normally sold and ridden in the U.S. All of our current bikes are from Dutch or German manufacturers (albeit the Retrovelo frames are made in Taiwan).

In any event, we like our bikes (which happen to be from Europe) and we have had a good experience with the Shimano and NuVinci IGH's. All of our previous experience was with derailleur equipped road bikes and mountain bikes.

Not so impressed with the Retrovelo at all. Many, many, many better German city bikes out there. Seems more like a German-made bike line sold to North America. That's OK. I like German companies making money, but even compared to what they sell, the Danish bikes are better.

Also, NuVinci will never catch on over here, it's too gimmicky and unproven.

So what actual components are Danish meaning rims hubs cranks bars stems

Frames are a Cottage level products .. Maxing profitability still has European brands off shoring things then maybe Painting them ..

The Harry Vs Larry Bullit bikes were sent to Taiwan since there it where the big solution heat treating ovens are for the Bike Industry at lowest per unit cost,
and is good at aluminum bikes by now.

Koga get containers of Frames thru Rotterdam POE, the assembly is in the North of NL

Danish bikes hand-welded in Christiania is what I mean if one is purchasing a box bike.

If a "standard" bike, get a Tout terrain that is hand-welded in Germany.

Keep the money where the work is by buying excellent products.

You confirm what I said , those are frame shops. and steel ..

No, I meant the bikes I listed and suggested to the aforementioned poster are really made in the EU and not in Taiwan.

Also, this came up in the Surly CC thread ... Tout terrain frame are very similar in price and keep the money where it matters.

Simply, they have no advertising/distribution budget and probably make minimal profit (like SON of germany).