Lighting Advice
#1
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Joined: Feb 2015
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Lighting Advice
Hello everyone,
I'm new here and to commuting. I was just looking for some advice with low cost lighting options.
Currently I have an Axiom Lazer 200 Lumens headlight and the matching 25 lumens tail-light (both rechargeable). I also have a Nite Ize Spoke Lit on my rear wheel.
I'm worried that I am not visible enough from behind, but do not have room on my seat post for another light. I also would like a wider scope of light in front of me.
What are my best ($15 - $20 price range) options?
Thanks,
- NorthFWRider
I'm new here and to commuting. I was just looking for some advice with low cost lighting options.
Currently I have an Axiom Lazer 200 Lumens headlight and the matching 25 lumens tail-light (both rechargeable). I also have a Nite Ize Spoke Lit on my rear wheel.
I'm worried that I am not visible enough from behind, but do not have room on my seat post for another light. I also would like a wider scope of light in front of me.
What are my best ($15 - $20 price range) options?
Thanks,
- NorthFWRider
#2
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
Thousandth repeat on this one Have you done a FAQ look back thru the other' I want a Cheap Light' queries
theres that whole Deal Extreme and Magic shine fan club that will be mentioned many Times
Have a LBS you Like going to? to see and fondle before Buying?
OK over, stated Budget . in the back ... I happen to like these The blinking tail Lights are inside the seatpost itself LightSKIN LED-Sattelstütze
theres that whole Deal Extreme and Magic shine fan club that will be mentioned many Times
Have a LBS you Like going to? to see and fondle before Buying?
OK over, stated Budget . in the back ... I happen to like these The blinking tail Lights are inside the seatpost itself LightSKIN LED-Sattelstütze
Last edited by fietsbob; 02-01-15 at 06:34 PM.
#3
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
IMO the greatest bargain in bike lights isn't a bike light. It's the Duracell flashlights at places like Costco. My most recent set of 300 lumens lights cost less than $20.00 for 3. I mount a pair using an improvised block for stability, and a a long O-ring/ or rubber band to hold them in place. My usual arrangement is a pair of beams aimed one forward of the other. I keep the battery pack from the 3rd light with me as a backup.
The lights take 4 aaa, batteries, which need to be shopped hard to keep the cost down, or you can use NiMH rechargeables, but the light output will be lower, and life shorter. I run NiMH for the commute,and keep alkalines as my backups.
BTW- since these have a round cone beam, it's important to keep it down a bit, or aimed slightly to the right. That's never been a problem for me, but if an approaching car has their high beams on, I tap the forward light, and swing my bars a bit, and it never fails to get the desired response.
The lights take 4 aaa, batteries, which need to be shopped hard to keep the cost down, or you can use NiMH rechargeables, but the light output will be lower, and life shorter. I run NiMH for the commute,and keep alkalines as my backups.
BTW- since these have a round cone beam, it's important to keep it down a bit, or aimed slightly to the right. That's never been a problem for me, but if an approaching car has their high beams on, I tap the forward light, and swing my bars a bit, and it never fails to get the desired response.
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FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#4
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
The two fish double velcro strap mount to use that flashlight is a functional Add On Twofish Unlimited - Bicycle Accessory Fasteners
a bit more solid than the rubber band scheme
a bit more solid than the rubber band scheme
#5
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 12,948
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From: England
Any modern LED rear lamp is good enough, even he cheap ones.
Keep it on constant mode at night, to allow distance estimation. If you want a blinking lamp, use an additional one. You can attach to seatpost or bag. If you have a luggage rack, use a bracket at the rear.
You can attach to offside seat stay but this is obscured from some angles.
Keep it on constant mode at night, to allow distance estimation. If you want a blinking lamp, use an additional one. You can attach to seatpost or bag. If you have a luggage rack, use a bracket at the rear.
You can attach to offside seat stay but this is obscured from some angles.
#6
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 987
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From: Minneapolis, MN
Bikes: 2x Bianchi, 2x Specialized, 3x Schwinns
IMO the greatest bargain in bike lights isn't a bike light. It's the Duracell flashlights at places like Costco. My most recent set of 300 lumens lights cost less than $20.00 for 3. I mount a pair using an improvised block for stability, and a a long O-ring/ or rubber band to hold them in place. My usual arrangement is a pair of beams aimed one forward of the other. I keep the battery pack from the 3rd light with me as a backup.
The lights take 4 aaa, batteries, which need to be shopped hard to keep the cost down, or you can use NiMH rechargeables, but the light output will be lower, and life shorter. I run NiMH for the commute,and keep alkalines as my backups.
BTW- since these have a round cone beam, it's important to keep it down a bit, or aimed slightly to the right. That's never been a problem for me, but if an approaching car has their high beams on, I tap the forward light, and swing my bars a bit, and it never fails to get the desired response.
The lights take 4 aaa, batteries, which need to be shopped hard to keep the cost down, or you can use NiMH rechargeables, but the light output will be lower, and life shorter. I run NiMH for the commute,and keep alkalines as my backups.
BTW- since these have a round cone beam, it's important to keep it down a bit, or aimed slightly to the right. That's never been a problem for me, but if an approaching car has their high beams on, I tap the forward light, and swing my bars a bit, and it never fails to get the desired response.
I've bought numerous sets of these lights. If your commute is under an hour, they are ideal. Over an hour, they are more of a pain, but still doable.
The two fish double velcro strap mount to use that flashlight is a functional Add On Twofish Unlimited - Bicycle Accessory Fasteners
a bit more solid than the rubber band scheme
a bit more solid than the rubber band scheme
The nice thing is, you can get built in redundancy, PLUS higher output when needed:
Edit: If you go this route, rechargeable ENELOOP batteries are the only way to go. Which I realize puts it outside of your specified price range. However, I use these flashlights around the house for everything - not just commuting - so they are worth it to me.
Alkaline batteries may give you more total light output over time than the NiMH eneloops, but for most of that output time, the light will be unacceptably dim. I would not run alkalines in these lights unless you are a very occasional commuter, no more than once a week.
Last edited by loky1179; 02-01-15 at 07:34 PM.
#8
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Thanks for the quick response everyone. You've given me some good ideas for headlights. However I was primarily concerned with being seen from the rear.
Someone mentioned having my light on constant instead of flash. Is a constant better than flashing? I feel like flashing is more noticeable.
Someone mentioned having my light on constant instead of flash. Is a constant better than flashing? I feel like flashing is more noticeable.
#9
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Joined: Aug 2012
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From: West Georgia
Bikes: K2 Mod 5.0 Roadie, Fuji Commuter
Boiled down result of debate............there is no conclusive research that has been done and you will spend days of reading nothing but opinions of the individual poster.
Try both options yourself and see if you can tell a difference in the reactions of drivers. If you can, decide which setting you like and run it.
#10
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
I use (illegally) an amber strobe because that's used for stationary hazards, so the driver will expect to reach me sooner rather than later than he actually does.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#11
Senior Member

Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,667
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
Bikes: 2015 Charge Plug, 2007 Dahon Boardwalk, 1997 Specialized Rockhopper, 1984 Nishiki International, 2006 Felt F65, 1989 Dahon Getaway V
I just bought a Nightrider TL-5.0 Rear Taillight specifically because in addition to the rear facing LEDs it has sideward facing LEDs for great side visibility and much greater than 180 degree visibility. NiteRider TL-5.0 Rear Bike Light - REI.com
#12
Plays in traffic
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: 1996 Litespeed Classic, 2006 Trek Portland, 2013 Ribble Winter/Audax, 2016 Giant Talon 4
#13
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,192
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From: Chicagoland
Bikes: Specialized Hardrock
The nice thing is, you can get built in redundancy, PLUS higher output when needed:

Edit: If you go this route, rechargeable ENELOOP batteries are the only way to go. Which I realize puts it outside of your specified price range. However, I use these flashlights around the house for everything - not just commuting - so they are worth it to me.
Alkaline batteries may give you more total light output over time than the NiMH eneloops, but for most of that output time, the light will be unacceptably dim. I would not run alkalines in these lights unless you are a very occasional commuter, no more than once a week.
Edit: If you go this route, rechargeable ENELOOP batteries are the only way to go. Which I realize puts it outside of your specified price range. However, I use these flashlights around the house for everything - not just commuting - so they are worth it to me.
Alkaline batteries may give you more total light output over time than the NiMH eneloops, but for most of that output time, the light will be unacceptably dim. I would not run alkalines in these lights unless you are a very occasional commuter, no more than once a week.
#14
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 987
Likes: 14
From: Minneapolis, MN
Bikes: 2x Bianchi, 2x Specialized, 3x Schwinns
Not ACTUALLY my current lighting setup - but I had a bunch of those flashlight mounts, and a bunch of flashlights, so I just had to try it!
#15
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,192
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From: Chicagoland
Bikes: Specialized Hardrock
#16
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,267
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From: NA
Bikes: NA
A 25 lumen tail light is quite bright. Another cheap 5 lumen light won't make much difference (other than redundancy). I'd recommend spending $25 and buying a hotshot sl or similar bright 2W tail light.
Last edited by spare_wheel; 02-05-15 at 10:06 AM.
#17
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Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Kent Wa.
Bikes: 2005 Gazelle Golfo, 1935 Raleigh Sport, 1970 Robin Hood sport, 1974 Schwinn Continental, 1984 Ross MTB/porteur, 2013 Flying Piegon path racer, 2014 Gazelle Toer Populair T8
As others have stated there really isn't a conclusive "best", I compromise and have one of each, a dyno powered steady with battery powered flasher.
#18
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 987
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From: Minneapolis, MN
Bikes: 2x Bianchi, 2x Specialized, 3x Schwinns
#19
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,239
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From: Bay Area, Calif.
So redundancy in the form of a totally separate second light is especially important for a tail light. If there's no room on the seat post you should be able to attach a second light to your seat stay.
#20
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
multiple battery taillights if you insist on only battery lights .. which only coming up with $20 is all you got.
$100 for a built dynohub front wheel .. gets you started into a system that you wont have low battery blackout problems..
$100 for a built dynohub front wheel .. gets you started into a system that you wont have low battery blackout problems..
#21
Uhhhhhhhhh wow. I mean, .....hmmm. Wow.
For about ~$100, one can purchase a nice setup that uses a single rechargeable battery, one tailight and one headlight. I run
https://www.amazon.com/MagicShine-Cyc...rds=magicshine
and
https://www.amazon.com/MagicShine-MJ-...ine+tial+light
There are cheaper and more efficient options out there. I know this is quite a bit more expensive than running 23 cheap flashlights in conjunction, but it's a simple setup, easy to take off of the bike, and recharges with a common 110 outlet, and is sealed off from the elements. Lighting is one of those things with cycling where cheaping out isn't really the best way to go; I would have argued the other way a couple of years ago, but after riding with my current setup I have changed my tune. I still think some of the crazy $500+ setups are overkill, but even if you work a min. wage job and live within your means it is not impossible to save the money it takes to get a setup that will compete with modern automotive HIDs.
OP, I would suggest buliding up your budget to run something much more substantial...I understand the need to run cheap. When I started cycling I was a full time college student with a wife and kid. Ebay is your friend, in this instance. Craigslist may also be an option for you. Do you drink beer? Eat out? Pay for cable TV? Smart phone data plan? Take a little out of another budget, and score something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/MagicShine-MJ-...rds=magicshine
For about ~$100, one can purchase a nice setup that uses a single rechargeable battery, one tailight and one headlight. I run
https://www.amazon.com/MagicShine-Cyc...rds=magicshine
and
https://www.amazon.com/MagicShine-MJ-...ine+tial+light
There are cheaper and more efficient options out there. I know this is quite a bit more expensive than running 23 cheap flashlights in conjunction, but it's a simple setup, easy to take off of the bike, and recharges with a common 110 outlet, and is sealed off from the elements. Lighting is one of those things with cycling where cheaping out isn't really the best way to go; I would have argued the other way a couple of years ago, but after riding with my current setup I have changed my tune. I still think some of the crazy $500+ setups are overkill, but even if you work a min. wage job and live within your means it is not impossible to save the money it takes to get a setup that will compete with modern automotive HIDs.
OP, I would suggest buliding up your budget to run something much more substantial...I understand the need to run cheap. When I started cycling I was a full time college student with a wife and kid. Ebay is your friend, in this instance. Craigslist may also be an option for you. Do you drink beer? Eat out? Pay for cable TV? Smart phone data plan? Take a little out of another budget, and score something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/MagicShine-MJ-...rds=magicshine
Last edited by jfowler85; 02-07-15 at 09:52 AM.
#22
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,192
Likes: 435
From: Chicagoland
Bikes: Specialized Hardrock
I used to ride with an advertised 4,000 lumens of lights, and 3,000 of those could be used as strobes. I got stuck first in line at the rail road crossing one twilight night when a train was going by, and I turned them all on strobe to see how the light looked reflecting of the crossing arms and the street signs. It was pretty wild.
#23
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,828
Likes: 2
From: West Georgia
Bikes: K2 Mod 5.0 Roadie, Fuji Commuter
I had a similar setup. Now I run a single Light & Motion Urban 650. I found out that a little bit of well focused, usable light is more useful than a lot of useless bright. Besides, it weighs well over a pound less and recharges for free with my solar panels.
#24
Just get one of these 1200 lumen lights from Amazon. I had one for 2 years and man it's bright. I run my light on low and cars still flashed me their hi beams.
Amazon.com : SUPERNIGHT(TM) CREE XML T6 LED Gold Bike Headlight Headlamp Bicycle Light With Rechargeable 4400mAh Battery, 1200 LM, Waterproof(IP66), for Cycling, Riding, Hunting, Camping, Traveling, Hiking, Caving, Climbing (Black+Golden) : Sports &
Amazon.com : SUPERNIGHT(TM) CREE XML T6 LED Gold Bike Headlight Headlamp Bicycle Light With Rechargeable 4400mAh Battery, 1200 LM, Waterproof(IP66), for Cycling, Riding, Hunting, Camping, Traveling, Hiking, Caving, Climbing (Black+Golden) : Sports &
#25
I'm pretty happy with my Light and Motion 500 lumen, but I find the optics crude, so I clamped on a cowl made out of aluminum flashing with a black duct tape cosmetic wrapper. With this cowl arrangement it is very easy to avert the beam from oncoming rider's eyes, and would be suitable for a low-cost flashlight solution as well.
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Last edited by Archwhorides; 02-08-15 at 10:08 AM.





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