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Slightly padded.
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Well, we are all different. What works for one guy is not necessarily going to work for another. But I believe you would not have this problem with a hard saddle.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by blastro
(Post 17661625)
... I wear chinos to work and I have been wearing holes in the seat at a steady pace. I just threw another pair away tonight, so a wake up call. I gotta do something...
Should I just not commute in my work pants? What do you people do? Wear this instead: http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=441322 |
Apparently if one purchases a $195 brooks leather saddle, trouser wear is virtually eliminated. I'm told that the softness of artisinal, hand-cured leather minimizes chaffing while the copper rivets serve to neutralize electrostatic friction. However, the weekly application of proofide ($20) is highly recommended.
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Sheep Fleece saddle cover and a Wool Kilt, it's only Right ..
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I wear mt bike shorts or tights under them. Try some poly blend twill work pants, 100% cotton will not wear as well. Start with carhart or work n gear. Plenty of options out there.
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Originally Posted by spare_wheel
(Post 17663797)
Apparently if one purchases a $195 brooks leather saddle, trouser wear is virtually eliminated. I'm told that the softness of artisinal, hand-cured leather minimizes chaffing while the copper rivets serve to neutralize electrostatic friction. However, the weekly application of proofide ($20) is highly recommended.
My lycra tights last for years (and obviously are not very work appropriate), but some high quality synthetic shorts last me about 6 months - and that is using a brooks saddle (the rivets don't help much either). I've switched to bike specific shorts (usually on sale somewhere) where the stitching does not go down the middle. That makes a big difference. (I ride at a fairly high speed & high cadence btw). |
Originally Posted by spare_wheel
(Post 17663797)
Apparently if one purchases a $195 brooks leather saddle, trouser wear is virtually eliminated. I'm told that the softness of artisinal, hand-cured leather minimizes chaffing while the copper rivets serve to neutralize electrostatic friction. However, the weekly application of proofide ($20) is highly recommended.
I know you think you're a funny guy, but just in case anyone takes you seriously. 1. Brooks saddles start around $80, not $195. 2. The leather isn't soft, it's hard. That's the point. 3. Not all saddles have the large copper rivets. Some people have issues with the rivets, some don't. 4. Proofide is not applied weekly. Maybe yearly, or maybe that's even overkill. A tin costs about $10 and will last many years. |
I like BDU's, which are made of sturdy material (in a few choices), and have a reinforced butt. They take a lot longer to wear holes in than other pants, and if the outer layer gets a hole, at least it doesn't go all the way through yet. Even the 100% cotton ones wear very well. I have one or two pairs of dress pants for when I have to get dressed up, but otherwise I wear nothing but BDU's in the winter and the shorts version of the same thing in the summer.
In general, fabric with a tighter weave will last longer than fabric that's soft or drape-y. I swear by boxers, btw... many years ago before I "discovered" them, I used to get frequent saddle sores in the areas where the underwear seam goes, but the problem completely disappeared when I quit wearing briefs. |
Originally Posted by lostarchitect
(Post 17664145)
I know you think you're a funny guy, but just in case anyone takes you seriously.
1. Brooks saddles start around $80, not $195. 2. The leather isn't soft, it's hard. That's the point. 3. Not all saddles have the large copper rivets. Some people have issues with the rivets, some don't. 4. Proofide is not applied weekly. Maybe yearly, or maybe that's even overkill. A tin costs about $10 and will last many years. BROOKS ENGLAND LTD. | ROAD+&+MTB | B15+SWALLOW+CHROME $200-$300 |
Originally Posted by spare_wheel
(Post 17663797)
Apparently if one purchases a $195 brooks leather saddle, trouser wear is virtually eliminated. I'm told that the softness of artisinal, hand-cured leather minimizes chaffing while the copper rivets serve to neutralize electrostatic friction. However, the weekly application of proofide ($20) is highly recommended.
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OP, what is the make & model of your saddle? Two things I can think of; 1) wrong saddle, 2) saddle is too high. I've never had a problem with abnormal wear on an upright city bike. Same goes for millions of people in Europe who ride to work every day in chino's, cotton suit pants, and everything else imaginable. A good leather brooks is one option but you'll see few of these in Europe since replacing them after their stolen gets expensive. Here are a few saddle that will work well without wearing your pants out: Saddles. There are others.
If your seat is too high that will cause premature wear as well. On a city bike you should be able to just tiptoe the ground while sitting on your saddle. This is a bit lower relative to the pedals than you'd be setup for racing the Tour but works well for around town or 50 mile recreational rides on Saturday. |
Originally Posted by chephy
(Post 17663552)
......... My partner only rides about 20 miles per week, and she recently noticed that a pair of corduroy pants that she'd had for years had worn really thin on the, ahem, seat part in about two years of commuting - and she doesn't even wear that pair all that often when bike-commuting.............
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I'd go the seat cover route and see if that solves your problem.
Back in the day I used to ride in jeans. Some would wear out in the crotch, others wouldn't. I now commute in the morning in my cotton work pants. I've never worn out a pair due to riding in the work week. Get a seat cover, they're cheap. But now. In the aftn ride home I do wear cycling tights because they are more comfortable. In the summer I wear cotton shorts. I've never worn them out either. Go to Aerotech and pick yourself out a nice looking seat cover. Assorted Lycra Spandex Bicycle Saddle Bike Seat Covers |
Originally Posted by kickstart
(Post 17663579)
I sometimes ride in jeans, and commute 14 miles a day in cheap work pants, none show the slightest sign of saddle wear, and this is on Brooks saddles. Going by the posts here, perhaps its the difference in riding position? I can see why sitting upright could put less stress on the crotch of pants.
Originally Posted by blastro
(Post 17663623)
Yes, I know my short commute is wimpy! Wish it was longer.
I should mention I ride a single speed, so I'm doing a lot of pedaling. I have a smooth seat. Lots of great points made on this thread. I get a wear spot the goes right through the pants at, wait for it, right where the seam of my underwear is. The constant sawing motion of the pants against the seam is the obvious culprit. I'm going to change up what i wear under my pants. - Andy |
wear MTB shorts (w/o liner) (or basketball shorts) same color as your chinos over your dress pants?
or put 2 holes in a clear plastic dry cleaning bag & wear it upside down, but tied at the waist so it's only covering your bottom? |
I had this problem in college but have not lately. I couldn't tell you what the difference is. Plastic seats and cotton jeans either time.
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Originally Posted by rumrunn6
(Post 17664619)
.. put 2 holes in a clear plastic dry cleaning bag & wear it upside down, but tied at the waist so it's only covering your bottom?
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Originally Posted by blastro
(Post 17663623)
Yes, I know my short commute is wimpy! Wish it was longer.
I should mention I ride a single speed, so I'm doing a lot of pedaling. I have a smooth seat. Lots of great points made on this thread. I get a wear spot the goes right through the pants at, wait for it, right where the seam of my underwear is. The constant sawing motion of the pants against the seam is the obvious culprit. I'm going to change up what i wear under my pants. |
Kilt?
- Andy |
Originally Posted by TransitBiker
(Post 17664578)
I put my comfort cruiser seat on the uptown, and it was immediately clear that it was not going to work. Stuck the stock seat back on, and couldnt be happier.
- Andy |
Originally Posted by kickstart
(Post 17665516)
Your Uptown and my Gazelle are good quality bikes built to be RTR and do a specific job, it stands to reason their saddles were chosen with more than casual consideration to compliment their intended use.
Honestly, the trek i had was "rtr" as well, and did rock for 1.2 decade. It's so funny how picky i was about a softer seat on the town & country, because i would never have looked at the one i use now on the uptown as remotely an option, yet it really is quite comfy, especially in warmer weather when it's a bit more compliant when i hop on after its sitting out a while if i'm in the store etc. Makes me re-think my MO about certain things..... maybe i just didn't give those other seats a chance to break in properly..... - Andy |
Originally Posted by Dave Cutter
(Post 17664288)
Corduroy is a sculptured velour or velvet..... and isn't really suitable for any use that involves a lot of sitting. Although some of the poly-blend corduroy is surprisingly durable.
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Originally Posted by chephy
(Post 17666268)
Some fabrics certainly fare better when rubbed on saddles than others; corduroy does tend wear really fast. Plain cotton is not all that durable either, based on my experience.
Cotton is a natural fiber... which is not generic in quality. Back when I was a kid Levi's were made of high quality (XXX I believe) cotton. Those things wore like iron! Higher quality (long fiber) cotton still does. As a matter of fact... the whole back-story about "American jeans" is about how Mr Levi Strauss made really durable trousers out of (100% cotton) tent canvas... during the gold rush. Previous to Mr Strauss's idea... men would pan and/or dig for gold wearing wool trousers with leather pants (AKA chaps) protecting their fronts. |
For me, cotton/poly blend pants wear the best if you are the pant wearing type...That's all I wear,cut off and hemmed for summer....My riding pants are $2.50 from the Salvation Army...:)
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