I just looked those up, and the claimed weight is 1685 grams! Not much lighter than my alloy wheels with DTS 350 hubs, which were custom built for about half the money. Is there some advantage to those Reynolds wheels that I'm missing?

One disadvantage is that the Reynolds is only 21mm inside rim dimension. The Zipp 303 S is 23mm.

Gary

Reynolds ATR are 23mm internal and 40mm deep. At 32mm wide, ATR are 5mm wider than 303S, suggesting enhanced durability.

Enve AG25 wheels are 25 mm internal, under 1500 gm for the wheelset, and I got mine last summer for $1550. And the rims are actually made in the US - that has to be worth something!

Well if this is turning into a wheel recommendation thread, I think the carbon wheel QPR (quality to price ratio) leader is the Lün Grapid from Winspace, which is 25mm IW, 38mm deep, 1413g, and $800. Wide flange spacing hubs, o-ring seals…lots of good stuff.

I don’t have them or know anyone who does, but the specs are fabulous and there have been many very good reviews for Winspace wheels across a broad spectrum of sources.

https://www.winspace.cc/lun-grapid-7...-wheelset.html

If you are a recreational rider who isn't concerned with times or competitive riding/group riding/Strava times, then I agree. To say that dropping 600 grams in wheel weight would have a near trivial impact is bunk though. You will notice an immediate difference going with a 1500g wheelset. You don't have to go carbon but carbon has it's advantages. Really good 1600g aluminum wheelsets can be had for around $500 to 600. Hunt 4 seasons come to mind. Carbon wheels are much more durable and if you are a bigger rider, they are worth the premium in my opinion. With carbon you can get a 25mm internal wheelset that goes 1500g and will outlast any lighter alum wheelset. Aero benefit is not worth debating if you are not a competitive (very) rider.
I'd say that if you use Strava and try to improve your times, do any group rides, compete in any races at all or do any considerable amount of hillclimbing, get better wheels. You will notice the difference immediately.

If you are a recreational rider who isn't concerned with times or competitive riding/group riding/Strava times, then I agree. To say that dropping 600 grams in wheel weight would have a near trivial impact is bunk though. You will notice an immediate difference going with a 1500g wheelset. You don't have to go carbon but carbon has it's advantages. Really good 1600g aluminum wheelsets can be had for around $500 to 600. Hunt 4 seasons come to mind. Carbon wheels are much more durable and if you are a bigger rider, they are worth the premium in my opinion. With carbon you can get a 25mm internal wheelset that goes 1500g and will outlast any lighter alum wheelset. Aero benefit is not worth debating if you are not a competitive (very) rider.
I'd say that if you use Strava and try to improve your times, do any group rides, compete in any races at all or do any considerable amount of hillclimbing, get better wheels. You will notice the difference immediately.

Yeah, not super light, but extremely durable, and unlimited weight rating is the big one. Like I said above though, I'd recommend the DT Swiss or Eastons above the Reynolds if cost is an issue and Reynolds are excellent if you are a suberclyde. I own and ride both the Reynolds and DT Swiss. I am partial to the Eastons too but am not currently riding them. We sell Reynolds, Easton & DT Swiss and over 6 years without a single broken spoke, cracked rim or warranty issue on any of them. The next step down is also a great set into the $450 range - Shimano GRX. We find the GRX set the best one available in the sub $500 range and a great upgrade for most bikes under $3,000.

I'm not a racer, per se, but ride over 7k miles per year and performance is important. I love the new Salsa Warbird and will be riding it for a long time to come, hopefully. Plan to do several century dirt road rides this year and want a responsive and comfortable wheelset under me.

Definitely want carbon due to my weight. I'd rather hurt once on the purchase than buy aluminum and have a wheel crack or do otherwise, like some here have said. Would like 25mm inner rim width and am willing to go to $1,500 - preferably less - to get something that will be durable and have a good warranty.

Appreciate all the input - wish I could respond to each one individually - keep the good info coming!

Gary

Since you ride that much, carbon bars are a major improvement as well. Weight savings is pretty minor but they smooth out vibrations so much. You can pick up a decent set for reasonable $$$ Couldn't live without them (and my Redshift stem).

I started riding at 265 lbs four years ago. Was down to 225 last year before gaining 10 back. I’ve ridden over 26,000 miles since then.

Carbon - 18,818 miles, no broken spokes (Reynolds, 24 spokes)

Aluminum - 8,000 miles, 3 broken spokes (Mavic, Stan’s and Fulcrum)

So, yeah. I’m gonna upgrade to carbon for responsiveness, durability and ride smoothness. Preferably with 23-25mm inner rim width. Gonna go with hooks after reading the info here - appreciate the input so far!

Gary

I think that when talking about the impact of wheel weight, you have to distinguish between weight at the outside (rims, nipples) vs weight at the center (hubs). The rims/nipples matter a whole lot more than the hubs, (with spoke weight somewhere in the middle of importance). I find comparisons of total wheel weights that do not make this distinction to be of little value.

So when someone says "Hey, this aluminum wheelset weighs the same as this other CF wheelset for a lot less money" that may be true, but the rim weights are likely to be different. And that is really the important part.

Pipeliner, I have carbon bars on my road bike. I put a set of aluminum Ritchey Comp Ergomax bars on this new gravel bike AND installed the Redshift ShockStop stem - what a marvelous combination! The Ritchey bars have a superb design - they are flat and raised on either side of the stem PLUS they have a slight flare back, which is your hand’s natural position. The Redshift stem smooths the bumps out - wow!

Gary

I upgraded to custom IndustryNine wheels through my Lynskey bike purchase (20% off, zero % financed). Honestly it was just for the bling factor of customized colors. That being said I’m really happy about their performance, especially the hub engagement, decently light 1545 grams and 24.5mm internal rim width. Perfect spec for lots of tubeless gravel tires on the market today.

One more thing... for the folks saying aluminum rides better, that is true but not with tubeless 45mm tires. If you plan to ride tires smaller than 40mm, maybe worth considering (but I don't think so).

I have a hard time believing anyone could tell the difference between carbon and aluminum with 45mm wide tires at 30psi.

Bontrager Aeoles Pro 3V, 37 or 37V if you can find them will meet what you want. I have Pro 5 and they are rugged. Plus good warranty. Though these are Trek products. I’ve looked at Hunt but have not seen any in person.

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/e...ode=black_grey

Congrats on the weight loss. No one here will ever agree on wheel recommendations, so let us know what you wind up with and how much you like it.

I own essentially the same bike as the OP, one year older, but with the same stock wheels. They are heavy. I replaced them with Lightbicycle WR35 (35 mm depth, 25 mm ID width) carbon rims and Novatec hubs for $660/pair.

I'm not going to argue the "is it worth it for those dollars" thing. I like my carbon wheels much better than the OEM wheels, both for the lighter weight and for the advantages of wider rims.

At 240 lbs + bike, saving even a full pound on the wheels will do exactly diddly squat.

I also got Light Bicycle wheels for gravel riding .. WR50's. I don't think the weight is such a big deal but I have to say I have gotten quite enamored with how deep section wheels ride. They give you added stability due to some complex physics I don't claim to understand very well. Here is a link if you want to see an explanation: https://www.roadbikerider.com/the-ph...ero-wheels-d1/. They have a downside in crosswinds but it is minimal on the WR50s.

Re: hookless or not, maybe in a few years hookless will be ready for prime time but it didn't seem to be fully there a year ago when I got my wheels.

Maybe it's placebo, but a 500g difference im wheelset weight can be felt. Perhaps it's other things besides just weight- different spoke count, different rim width, etc...but I'm pretty sure it's the weight that can be felt and 500g can be felt, even at that riding weight.

It won't make me measurably faster, but it can be felt.

It doesn't matter if its placebo or not - if lightweight carbon wheels make you happy that is a good thing, especially if it gets you on the bike more. If inexpensive aluminum wheels make you happy, ride them and don't get carbon.

You are wrong but that’s OK…

Go climb a long hill with one and then the other, afterward check your times. Rider size doesn’t negate the effect and I speak from experience.

I actually bought the Zipp 303S wheel set for my Santa Cruz Stigmata and they feel fantastic. They spin up fast, are very compliant and just look sexy. I'd wholeheartedly recommend them...

I think I'll be slower the second time?
(sorry, that's beside your point, I know)