Phoenixfly92

For the past couple of months I have been looking at a ton of framesets and trying to narrow things down. I want it to have full internal routing for a cleaner more modern look. Already have A Di2 groupset ready to go! I'm currently looking at the following. Was going to post links but it wont let me yet.


Litespeed Toscano FI - Defiantly the lightest at 1285g - Price $4365
I like that its the lightest but I really don't like the Chris King headset and ideally would like it to be integrated, anyone know of other headset options that work? It stretches my budget but could get it soon!

Rielly Reflex - Weight 1750g - Price $4240
I honestly like the look of this one the most but it defiantly weighs quite a bit. Anyone have one of there bikes and want to send a referral?

Triton now Tritao Aveiro - Weight 1685g - Price $3500
Just came out so not to many details but looks alright but would be a couple months wait.

Dolan GXT - Weight 2000g - Price $2417
Cheapest option, doesn't have quite the look and weighs a LOT!

Titan Super Bond 3d printed - Weight 1500g or so - Price $2550
Love the 3d printed look but having to do custom geometry and deal with translation to I worry something may not work fitment wise and would take 3+ months

Polaris OBark

Sage Titanium is worth looking at. They are in Oregon.

My wife has one.

Phoenixfly92

I looked a them but they don't have fully internal cables and are even more expensive.

mstateglfr 

I looked up 3 of the bikes and already know the general litespeed geometry.
You are asking about bikes that have totally different geometries and will both feel and fit differently from one another.


Ignore weight because of you actually want frame weight to be the leading factor, buy a carbon frame.
Focus on the geometry that will fit you best for how you want a gravel bike to feel. Do you want it to turn quickly or turn more intentionally? What stack and reach do you want? Do you want a really upright seat tube angle or more relaxed? Do you want a slacked out front end or more traditional angle? Chainstay length matter?

Bike feel and fit continue to be what I find most valuable when looking at frame options. These seem like 5 bikes that you looked up without considering geometry. Or maybe you did consider geometry and don't care about it?

Phoenixfly92

I'm aware they have different geometries, I'm not sure exactly how to pick based off of it though. I picked these based off knowing I want a fully internally routed bike. My current bike is a 2022 Specialized SL7 in a 52. I want this bike to be able to both road and gravel. Maybe get into a gravel race or potentially cyclocross. I'm 5ft7in and 35yo and generally pretty fit and been riding bikes since I was 4. So responsive is good but I'm also new to dealing with climbing and bigger descent's having just moved from Florida to Seattle. So any help based off geometry would be very helpful.

Steve B.

Also give Habenaro a look at. They state on their road frames they do a Di2 cable option, not sure of the gravel frame. Good prices though.

Caliwild

Just go with whatever has the closest geometry to your SL7. I like to compare using this site: https://geometrygeeks.bike

And then go by what looks best to you. Yes, you'll ride the bike that pulls at your heart strings more than one that is more pragmatic, IMHO.

Phoenixfly92

Thank you that site is quite helpful!

chaadster

I only know Litespeed and Dolan from that list so can’t comment on meaningful on any of those, but as a T-Lab X-3 rider, I can recommend T-Lab’s R3 Omni as worthy of consideration. It’s an “all-road” rig with some innovative features, built in Montreal, CA, and available in both stock and custom geometry. In your small sizing, they list average weight at 1280g, and it’s $3.5k for the frameset. Road oriented geometry (fitting a 35c tire), integrated headset, and electronic ready (internal routing for rear brake), so ticks all your the boxes.

I love my gravel-specific X3, but it is not as spry on the pavement as a pure roadie, so if a more evenly balanced ride character is what you want— i.e. competent on gravel, but accurate enough for fast road pacelines— then the R3 Omni is the ticket.

Started by the old Guru Cycles crew after that brand closed up shop and sold off equipment that went to the founding of Allied Cycles, having worked with Ti, steel, carbon fiber and aluminum, there is some serious experience in design and fabrication behind T-Lab, and titanium is all they work in.



https://t-lab-bikes.com/en-us/bikes/r3-omni

Polaris OBark

I got her frame and Enve fork for $2K. Di2 cables are internal (except for the solid part of the drive-side chain stay, which is typical for titanium frames).

mstateglfr 

If you want a bike that feels/reacts/turns similar to your SL7, then compare geometry between your SL7 and the bikes you mention, then narrow the list down based on what is most similar.
Trail, stack, height, wheelbase, chainstay length, front center measurement, bottom bracket drop- these 7 measurements, pretty much in the listed order, will be the main measurements that impact how a bike feels when riding compared to other bikes.

- You will almost for sure want a bike that has at least the same stack and reach as your SL7, and likely want a bike that has a slightly higher stack and slightly shorter reach. Gravel bike riding position is often a tough more upright compared to a paved road bike, though there is no firm rule.
- You will almost for sure end up with a bike that has a higher trail than your SL7 because AR/Gravel bikes usually have a slightly slacker HTA and slightly slacker fork rake. Again, this is generalizing. But if your SL7 has 58mm of trail then an AR/Gravel bike with 64mm or so of trail would still make for a similar steering feel while being a bike more stable at speed.
- The AR/Gravel bike will have a longer wheelbase because the front center and chainstay lenghts on AR/Gravel bikes are both longer than an SL7 type bike. Just know what your wheelbase is and look at what all the wheelbases are for the bikes you are considering. Maybe eliminate a bike if the wheelbase is crazy long compared to the others.
- BB drop is something I really care about, but sometimes others dont. A higher BB drop number means the BB is lower to the ground and the feel is usually that you are riding 'in' the bike instead of 'atop' the bike. Modern gravel geometry typically has BB drops of at least 70mm and often 73-78mm to account for the larger tires(which prop you up higher than road tires) and because a slightly lower BB helps a bike feel more stable and planted when riding downhill on looser surfaces.

What I didnt list is head tube angle and seat tube angle because the bike's trail figure takes head tube angle into account, so that measurement on doesnt hold a ton of value. Seat tube angle wasnt mentioned because I know smaller bikes inherently have steeper seat tubes and since I dont ride em, I really cant say much on that. An offset seatpost and sliding the saddle on its rails will easily account for 1.5deg of seat tube angle differences though, so you can still get into a similar/same position as your SL7 in the end.




Hope the above helps.
I will say that choosing which bikes to consider by requiring they have internal cable routing seems...more on the vanity side of things than the user side of things. You are eliminating a lot of really good titanium options with that requirement, and one of those frames may fit how you like a bike to feel when riding better than any of the bikes you listed. It also seems very 'cart before the horse' since I would think how a bike feels when riding be the primary criteria and if a couple hoses and cables are routed thru a stem and headset would be secondary criteria.
Just something to consider.

Phoenixfly92

I had looked at them in my search but the brake line are exposed in the front and I don't want that.

Phoenixfly92

How long ago was that? Everything I saw was super over $6k and only one was fully internal cables.

Phoenixfly92

I'm also comparing the geometry to a crux as I have ridden one before and liked it. This does help though, thank you for taking the time to write that out!

I realize that it may be on the vanity side of things and it is to an extent. I really do prefer the look of hidden cables and I think having them hidden away helps protect them. It also allows for a bar bag without them getting in the way.

chaadster

Ah, as in internally routed through the stem and headset…I hadn’t understood that. Sorry.

shelbyfv

Lynskey GR300?

huffman 

FWTW I bought a Litespeed Watia with GRX810 2x Di2 just to ride on the road and really like it. Di2 is AWESOME. After I replaced the aero bar I told Litespeed not to put on the bike & went to a shorter stem I have begun to really like it. I go to southside Virginia to ride where there is chip seal & bad roads so it helps. Doesn’t seem slower than my old Arenberg. Going from 23c tires to 38c and more relaxed geometry is a lot more comfortable.

Phoenixfly92

Nice! I did actually go for the litespeed, the weight and the fact they will let me anodize the frame myself without voiding the warranty did it for me. Now just got to figure out all the other parts, BB, seatpost, front derailer clamp, bottle cages, carbon steering plug, and tires.

huffman 

Wow, gonna anodize a ti frame. Please post pix and pm me when it’s done. I had the royal anodizing done but the whole frame is something I want to see.

2592

Check these guys out https://sanitasbikes.com, I absolutly love mine.