Yes I replaced the brake levers with Cane Creek SCR levers. All of the pre purchase research of the UNO made me realize the included brake levers needed replaced ASAP. I took the UNO for a quick test ride after the initial assembly and I can confirm the included brakes levers are horrible.

Maybe if you convert the bike to moustache or bullhorn bars and keep those levers, they are somewhat less horrible. But on the drops... nope.

A few upgrades on the Uno today ...

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=328994

44t Salsa chainring and CF bash guard. The finish on the CF isn't "pretty", but it's functional and super light.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=328993

Excess Technologies 17t freewheel and Surly tugnut. The Excess freewheel is a three-pawl, 30 points of engagement design and is much nicer than the stock Dicta freewheel that BD includes. Nearly instant engagement and almost silent coasting.

Combined with the 44t chainring, this gives me 69.9 gear inches. I found the stock 64.1 gearing was too low for the road, and not low enough for Cyclocross. This combo gives me almost 19 mph at 90 RPM, which is comfortable in the flats, and still lets me get up bridges and survive headwinds. I'll be picking up the 20t version for CX season which will give me 59.4 GI.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=328992

Last, but not least ... I ditched the stem mounted front brake cable hanger and installed a Tektro fork mounted hanger instead. I hadn't really noticed any major brake judder problems with the stock setup, I just didn't like the looks of it or the feel of the extra drag from the cable making the bend through the "noodle".

I had to drill out the hole on the back side of the fork to make it big enough to get the barrel nut through. If anyone has questions about the quality of the steel used in the FCX Uno fork, let me assure you it's *really* hard stuff :)

This one came out of left field for me. Saw it on CL and thought it would fill a need. Turns out to be a 2012 version but still, a mess when I picked it up.

Thought for sure the frame was scratched up bad but a good cleaning showed the paint was undamaged. Can't say the same for the components.

The seat was broke at the nose so off it came and a Bontregger Affinity 2 took its place. The stem was way out there so it got replaced with a 110

Ritchey. Nice fit happening. The crank is another matter, the pedal was turned in there off kilter so the threads on the drive side are ugly. Might get the

threads chased and see if it helps or just dig through the bin for something else. Brake pads are a definate replace item.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=360935 I like the look overall but wish to change it so it's not like all the other CX Motobecane Unos out there.

Most important thing is to get this out on the trail and have fun with it. Needed changes first, wishes later.

It has potential. :)

Mine just broke 4800 miles.

In October, I swapped the Alex SUB wheels I'd been using with the original Jalcos. Once trued, they have done just fine.

I just picked up the Redline chain tensioners for it and will be following up with some stainless axle nuts, too. The thing is a tank and I love it.

Hey BigBenaugust,

Thanks ! It's always fun to consider the possibilities of a new ride and make it your own. So many changes possible...

I plan on staying with the Jalco wheels. Definetely plan on having them trued and tensioned. Q? Why use the drop out tensioners ? Don't the nuts hold the wheel straight ? Also, I noticed the front axle is hollow, can it be cut down and made into a QR hub ? Or maybe better to score another hollow axle already sized to this hub ?

First this crank with the messed thread worked out.

Hey, did I see a pic of your Moto in front of a building in Chapel Hill ? My old stomping ground !

... for the Bottle opener :beer:

I will say that the Jalcos are lighter than the Alex SUBs I bought with the bike.

1. Why the tensioners? Mostly because I have some difficulty getting the wheel centered AND the chain tension adequate at the same time. I can have one right and the other just close enough. I figure turning a screw to do it might be easier. Also, with a rear rack, the interplay of axle nut, chain tensioner, and rack mount is difficult, so I bought the Redlines, which do not have a bottle opener.

2. I do not think the hole in the hollow axle is big enough for sticking a QR axle in, but I could be wrong. There are nutted to QR adapters out there, though... I haven't been interested because I figure the nuts help with theft-resistance a little.

3. Chapel Hill-- Yeah, we moved here last April. I shipped the Uno UPS so I had something to ride to work just in case the movers were late. :)

I found the Jalcos to be a surprisingly decent wheelset (for as cheap as they must be). They're relatively light and once I tensioned and trued mine, they stayed true even after a couple of Cross races.

The front axle will fit a QR if you can find a good way to cut it to the right length. I almost went down that path. Instead, I just picked up the PDW tire lever with the built in 15mm box-end on the other end. Throw it in with your spare tube and as long as you have the stuff to fix the flat, you have what you need to get the wheel off. Note that the hubs use cartridge bearings, so odds of finding a QR axle with the exact same bearing shoulders is not good (my LBS didn't even want to try). The front hub is pretty heavy, so you'd be better off just replacing the whole hub with a road QR hub. Of course then you need different length spokes and a complete wheel rebuild, so the cheap and easy answer is find a wrench that fits your saddle bag and don't worry about it :)

Tensioners are simply a time saver if you frequently remove the rear wheel. I had different freewheels for cross and road and the Surly tugnut made it much quicker to set the chain tension each time I swapped. And I must admit the bottle opener did come in handy after a CX race :)

Hey,

I hear what your saying about keeping a 15mm handy but I plan on keeping this bike in my tiny car. I will have to be taking the front wheel off and on quite a bit.Thought it would be easier on the axle threads.

If I follow what you're saying, this axle isn't just a straight axle but one that has shoulders permanent to it ? Does anyone else make this type of axle but intended for QR ?

I appreciate the shared knowledge.

3speedslow, I regularly transported my Uno in the back of my Corvette, so front wheel went on/off often. Axle threads and track nuts are steel (as are dropouts) so you don't need to worry too much about wear and tear. You only need about 20 ft-lbs on the nuts (and the front is usually fine with much less). Lightly grease the threads now and then and you should be able to mount the wheel thousands of times without issue.

The problem with replacement axles is that they are sold to match specific hubs so they don't publish the bearing shoulder dimensions. Someone with access to a large assortment might be able to measure and find a match, but without any standards for this kind of thing it would take some luck.

I have no idea about the axle, but I may have to take it apart and lube it soon-- it's getting a little crunchy. But I did get the chain tensioners on with only a little filing off of the end of the rack legs.

Fellow Uno owners,

Got some saddle time in, looking forward to the gravel trails. Update finds the crankarm threads retapped and holding for now. Gonna fit some 32s on the rims for a better grip.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=362062 Thanks all for the info bits.

Anyone know where to get one in 56? Im living in europe and can't find any sellers.

Can anyone tell me how tall the headtube is on a frame size 54?

I don't have the exact number, but I believe it's around 115 mm.

I will get out the tape and measure it tonight.

Not sure how much longer I am going to keep my Uno... it's pretty hilly here and I carry too much crap to work.

I'll be looking forward to the resultat ,)

Metric tape measure says 105ish mm, caliper says 105.8mm.

Thank you sir!

Hey everyone. I joined the forum just last week or so, and have been trolling the net for a couple of months doing research on what the best bike for a noob such as myself might be. Long ago, (I'd say about 20 years) I owned an Bianchi that was purchased new in NYC at what is now Spokesman Cycles on Irving place. Not sure if it was the same, back then. Anyway, a lot of the information I gleaned, came from this forum, even before creating an account. Tons of terminology I don't understand, math etc.. but what I do know is that I'm on a budget, and I'm after something of a beater bike, but not a $200 heavyweight from Amazon etc.. I've narrowed the list down to four bikes, possibly three, if I'm right about what I'm just about to say, which is:

Even though the Kilo TT Pro is highly recommended, I'll be riding NYC streets with those nasty potholes and such. My commute to work would be about 20+ miles round trip, (sometimes 6 days in a row) not accounting for just pleasure riding after work and on my days off. I might need larger tires, and the Kilo might not be so accommodating in that area, correct? My next choice then, was the Kilo WT. Up's the price a bit, and I'm not totally against spending $450, but if it gets stolen, I'll kick myself just a little bit more, as will my wife I suppose. I guess the good thing about a $200 beater, is that you don't care AS much if it is stolen or trashed.

Third choice is the Windsor Hour/Plus. This one is priced $100 cheaper than the Uno, but if the parts are significantly worse, and are going to wind up costing me more down the road anyway.. then what would the point be, I suppose?

My fourth and final choice, is kind of obviously, the Fantom Cross Uno. Price point seems reasonable if the parts aren't going to need replacing right out of the box, and allows for wider/better tires. But if I AM going to be replacing the tires, then logic says to get the Windsor (if the frame and all else is worth it) and get tires which I'd have been getting for the Uno, right? But is the FCU just that much better of a complete bike than the Windsor Hour out of the box that the $ is worth it, even after possibly spending more on tires? And another big but.. what about the tires that come stock on the Kilo WT? Would those be a better bet over all? I just hope that this is the right place to be asking, since this is an Motobecane Uno thread, after all.

Another few questions to get out of the way, just in case this post is relevant to this thread:

I'm exactly 6' and have an inseam of 31.5" I don't like to reach too much to touch the ground, so was wondering what frame you guys would recommend for the FCU. I know that it would be between 56-58cm and wondered what is most comfy for someone with a not so great back. (The usual herniated discs, pinched nerves and a touch of stenosis) I'm 42 and trying to get back into shape (think I weigh about 205) so I don't want to make things TOO easy on me with a geared bike. I like a challenge. Though there aren't really any hills in NYC aside from getting on a bridge, I feel that a single gear would be the right choice for me.

Thanks!

Doug

Then you definitely don't want a SS/FG bike. Fixed-gear bikes have high bottom brackets (the part of the frame where the crank is mounted) so your pedals don't hit the ground as you pedal leaned over when turning. If you're going to do more than 100 miles a week and you lower your saddle enough that your feet can touch the ground while seated, you will destroy your knees in no time flat. SS/FG is already hard on the knees (since you can't optimize cadence) so you absolutely need to have good fit and that means you will have to get out of the saddle to put your feet down at a stop.

Even a regular geared road bike (with a significantly lower BB) is going to be a stretch if properly fit. If you're going to bike commute, you'd be well served to learn to ride properly and that includes getting out of the saddle and straddling the top tube when standing at a stop.

Thanks! I knew there'd be a catch with my flawed plans! Technically, I have no qualms with dismounting and leaning to the side. And I am more than happy to ride properly as part of my regiment to get back into shape. That said, I'm getting a SS/FG, no question about it. Forget I ever said what you've quoted, k? ;)

What about the rest now. I'm ready...sock it to me!

Doug.

Step one is to figure out size. The best way to do this is get sized at a local bike shop, but if you're not buying from them, there will likely be a significant charge for this. If you're determined to DIY, then there are a variety of online sizing guides/calculators. Pay attention to how they describe the measurements. For example, I suspect the 31.5" inseam you mentioned is your pants inseam, not your cycling inseam. Cycling inseam is measured from pubic bone to floor. Lots of folks like the Competitive Cyclist fit calculator. I think it's fit advice is a little aggressive for novice riders, but they do have excellent instructions for taking your measurements. For a traditional style frame (horizontal top tube), I've always found Dave Moulton's sizing chart helpful: http://www.davemoultonregistry.com/M...FrameSizeChart

As for which bike, the Uno is geared quite low (since the intended use is mostly off-road). That may be ok for a novice, but as your fitness improves, you'll likely want to change the gearing for road use. You can't go much smaller on the cog/freewheel, so that means a different chainring (and probably longer chain). The Windsor and Kilo are set up with road chainrings, so you can adjust gearing with just a cog change (usually cheaper and less impact on chain length). Tires are probably going to need replaced no matter which bike you get. You need some seriously tough tires to survive urban commuting and none of the bikes you're looking at come with particularly durable tires. The Uno is probably the worst since CX tires aren't designed to be puncture resistant (not a lot of broken glass or scrap metal on a CX course). Whether anything else needs to be changed is mostly a question of comfort. Saddle, bars, brake levers, etc. are kind of a personal preference and when you buy online there's no telling how well the stock offerings will work for you.

Seems to me the lower gear of the Uno might be an advantage until you get your strength up and then you will want to swap out the chainring.

In my case, the longer chainstays of the Uno were a deciding factor over the Kilo WT, as I am a rack and panniers man.

Mine came from BikeIsland in March of '12 with a 39x16 setup, but since I live in a hilly town and carry too much stuff to work every day, I will likely be returning it to 38x16 soon. It passed the 10000km mark this past week, and I rode a leisurely 50k on it this morning.